i am looking to add an extra radiator to my system (in the conservatory) how do i connect to the existing rads

Answer 1

Either drain your system(best method) with a hosepipe to the outside.
Alternative method freeze your pipes before the cut(not recommended)
Then locate your nearest hot water pipe,usually between radaitors or directly from a radiator, sever the pipe to connect your new pipework to the new rad.Of course you will have to loop your new rad in , this will of course pipe back to the location of the sever.
After completion allow the rads to fill and then bleed as required.

Answer 2

It depends on the size of your feed pipes. If they are 10-12mm or larger, you can get away with Tapping into an existing radiator. (One pipe from each side of the existing one.) The biggest problem, is re balancing the system, so that water flows into the new radiator. The best way to maximise heat transfer around the system, is to fit Radiator Thermostats to all radiators other than the Conservatory and Bathroom. This will allow the entire house to warm up and then divert the remaining heat to where it is required most. The Thermostat on the boiler, is then used to regulate the overall heat output of the last two. Most Domestic Heating Boilers have enough extra output to allow for 1 more radiator, however the Rad Stats will ease the pressure on the boiler.
If you don't know the basics or are not proficient at soldering, don't attempt it. Get a plumber in.

Answer 3

Hi Richard

Firstly turn off the boiler then locate the gate valves (stop cocks) for the cold water feed to the boiler and the hot water outlet from the boiler to the rads and turn them off. You then have to drain the system, locate the drain valve. This is usually found on the last radiator downstairs and will be on one of the pipes going up to the radiator valve. There is usually a connection for a garden hose on it, put the hose on it and stick it in the nearest drain and turn the square nut anticlockwise. You will need a rad key for this they can be bought at B&Q. Once you have opened this and water is flowing, then open the bleed valves on all the rads (located on the end and at the top) to assure that all rads empty.

When the system is empty, the hose disconnected and valve done up, go to the rad nearest to the place that you want to put the new one. You may have to lift the floorboards to get to the pipework, that done you need to cut into the pipes that go up to the rad valves before they bend upward and put in a T junction so you can bring your new pipework out. You will have to work out a route from there to the place that you want to site the new rad so as to calculate the length of pipe that you need, also the fittings (90 degree bends, straight connectors etc).

You will need to lift floorboards all the way to the new spot and drill or notch the floor joists to accomodate the new pipework (being careful not to place the pipe near to where you nail it back down). Attach the rad brackets to the wall and hang the new rad (you may have to put in the bleed valve and blanking fitting onto the rad use PTFE tape to seal the threads). You will have to screw the new rad valves on, use PTFE for this too. Lay in your pipework loosely connecting as you go until you are all connected from rad to rad. Checking that the pipework corresponds to the flow and return. The flow is normally on the left rad valve (the one that you can turn the rad on and off with), the return on the right with a small plain cap

Lets talk about fittings and tools. You will need to get a pipe cutter (to get a straight cut) a couple of pairs of stillsons or adjustable spanners with a wide enough gape to fit the nuts.
As a beginner use compression fittings rather than solder joints, as unless you know how to solder you could get problems with leaks. You could also find out if your stockist has a kit for this job.

OK now you are loosely connected with the olives in place and PTFE on the threads on the connectors tighten the nuts up with the spanners.

Go round all the rads and shut the bleed valves, turn on the feed and outlet valves on the boiler. You now have to locate the filling loop, look under the boiler and there may be a tap which says fill, or it may have 2 pipes linked by a braided flexible hose that have valves. Open the valves. Go to the nearest rad to the boiler and open the bleed valve (not all the way, you dont want the inner valve to come right out) and let out the air til there is water spurting out (protect the wall and carpet) then do it up. go round all the rads and do this (nearest to the boiler then next nearest etc) to chase out any air locks until you have vented the new one.

Go back and close the filling loop when the gauge on the boiler reads 1bar. Go and check all your connections with tissue paper as this will tell you if you have the slightest leak. If all is OK then switch the boiler back on and switch on the heating and let it run till the boiler stops. Check all the rads are hot from top to bottom (if not then bleed more, but check gauge on boiler and top back up to 1bar if nec) recheck all connections, if all is OK put the floorboards back and renail. JOB DONE!!

It is probably more involved than you thought, so in the end it may pay you to get a plumber in.

Answer 4

in case you artwork out the warmth output for all the present radiators and evaluate the finished against the dimensions of the boiler.The boiler would have an output of something between 24 and say 35kw.a common 600x600 double convector radiator will provide a warmth output of approximately one million kw. until eventually you reside in a house with 20 impressive radiators,you are going to be ok.

Answer 5

Find the manifold and connect it to there (where two big pipes branch out to lots of smaller ones ) or add a loop from the closest existing radiator.