it could be that the arms are stripped out. there are flat sides on the studs these flats are orientated the same way as the damper blade.
Possum
2006-11-23 08:30:03
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answer #1
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answered by hillbilly named Possum 5
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The notch (screwdriver slot) in the threaded stud is indicative of the position of the damper vane itself.
Another way to determine if the damper is in the right position is to check at the room's register to see if adjusting the position of the damper handle is having any effect on the amount of air coming out of the register.
If the damper handle is stripped and cannot be tightened, it can sometimes be double-nutted. Also a c-clamp could be fastened to the stud and taped to the ductwork. Removing and replacing a damper can be daunting for a novice - but it can be done. First, get a library book on the subject. Then lay in a supply of tourniquets and bandages and tackle the job when you know that the medical clinic nearest your home is open for business.
By the way, It is not wise to close very many of your registers. A predetermined amount of air must move across the furnace's heat exchanger. If insufficient air moves across the heat exchanger the furnace will not operate efficiently. Also, not enough air movement can result in overheating the heat exchanger, which can shorten the life of the equipment and, if the air-shortage is extreme enough, possibly destroy the heat exchanger.
Good luck.
2006-11-25 01:23:57
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answer #2
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answered by Huero 5
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You have a few different things going on - water not draining, no air-flow and no cooling. Water and reduced humidity are the result of moisture being taken out of the air. The ducting section just above the furnace is where the A-coil sits and it is normal for it to generate lots of condensation water as it takes moisture out of the air flowing over it. Normally, this water collects in a drain pan inside the unit under the A-coil and is drained out by a PVC pipe that runs out the front or back of the unit and into an open basement drain. Often this PVC pipe gets clogged with dirt and then the water will have nowhere to go but come out through the ducting or into the furnace below. I would start with cleaning out the A-coil and the PVC drain line. There are a few screws holding an access panel in the ducting above the furnace and if you remove them, the access panel should come out and give you access to the drain pan. You should clean the pan and the PVC connection to it to the point where water poured into the drain pan it flows freely into the basement drain. While you have the access panel open, use a small mirror to see if the A-coil is clean and you can see through the fins with a flashlight. If you cannot, then you need to clean the A-coil as noted in other answers here. That should fix the air flow and the water issue. I would next clean the outdoor unit coil (make sure the outdoor disconnect is pulled out). If everything is clean, both fans and compressor run and there is warm air, I suspect a low refrigerant issue that will need a call to a tech to diagnose and correct.
2016-05-22 22:57:23
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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Yes position of notch is position of damper. Turn the screw to where it is going in a direction across from duct thengo to the register and feel for air. A small piece of toilet paper taped to the register is a good indicator.
2006-11-26 15:56:09
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answer #4
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answered by laydbacklollar 1
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If the arm is up and down they are closed. If the arm is horizontal the damper is open
2006-11-23 04:03:11
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answer #5
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answered by aussie 6
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The damper handle determines the blade location.
Handle parallel to duct (air flow) is open, perpendicular is closed.
Tighten the wingnut to lock in place.
2006-11-23 03:40:03
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answer #6
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answered by Obsean 5
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mr mad had it right, arm up means closed arm down means open
2006-11-23 09:50:38
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answer #7
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answered by Anonymous
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feel for air flow thru vents.
2006-11-26 13:58:44
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answer #8
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answered by duc602 7
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