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when the puppy comes out what to do next? I want a step by step detailed answer please. And how do I make the pup go pee and poo?

2006-11-17 09:20:25 · 8 answers · asked by Anonymous in Pets Dogs

8 answers

you dont have to make the pups go, they will all by themselves.

2006-11-17 09:25:12 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

You may want to be more detailed in your question. It is unclear whether you are going to be bottle raising a motherless puppy or whether you are asking what to do with the puppies just after the mother dog gives birth. Here's a website with info. about how to care for the mother and help with the pups but I wouldn't recommend you do this without someone to help you who has some experience. You don't have to have all the equipment this site suggests, but there is a lot of good info.
I have had a dog that had puppies when I was a child and my parents did not know what to do and the puppies all died. The mother was too young to have puppies and was overwhelmed by having too many. My parents did not know about giving the mother a supplement to help her with milk and we were picking up the puppies just after birth olus because she was so young she was very nervous about her pups. It was a mess.
When I became an adult, I had a dog that gave birth and needed help with her puppies but I knew what to do before she was ever bred and I had a friend there who was a vet tech. You shouldn't have to make the puppies go "pee and poo" because the mother should lick them to accomplish this. If you are talking about how to help a puppy do this because the mother is not there and the puppy is bottle feeding, that is a different story. If there is no mother and you are bottle feeding you will need to simulate the mothers' tongue licking their butt and where they pee by gently massaging those areas, butt last, with a cotton ball or a soft cloth dampened with slightly warm water because a nursing puppy needs stimulation to be able to void or do number 2. If the puppy is weaned or is little but able to eat on its own, about four weeks old or more, it should be peeing and pooing without needing any help.
http://www.chelsea-collies.com/newborn.html

2006-11-17 17:51:40 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Do you mean when the puppy comes out of the mother??? You don't have to do much. The mother usually takes care of it. If the mom has been in labor a long time and is tired, it would be a good idea to do what she would do - she would clean it. So, with a soft warm towel - put the towel in the microwave for a few seconds to warm it up - gently dry off the puppy. By rubbing gently, you also stimulate his breathing. Then be sure he is kept warm. Do this with each one. But be sure to give it back to the mom asap so she can bond and start nursing.

2006-11-17 17:30:53 · answer #3 · answered by monkey 3 · 0 0

When it comes out of the mama dog you mean? You let her take care of it. She'll lick the puppy, keep them fed and warm and she will make sure they poo and pee.
If the mother is capable of taking care of the pup, let her. Her milk contains valueable nutrients and antibodies (so the pup doesn't get sick) that the pup needs. Don't remove the pups from her until they are 8 weeks old, or the mama is too sick to care for them, or dies.

2006-11-17 17:25:04 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

I got these two sets of details off of the following websites. I hope they will help.

http://www.toyvillechis.com/id19.html

Helpful hints and tips that have worked well for us :
One important fact that is often overlooked is that a
puppy needs a nice warm, clean, draft free environment.

Remember, that little one came from a 101-102 degree
environment. What is comfortable for you is probably much
too cool for a newborn puppy. We keep our new moms in a
solid crate, always covered to keep out any drafts. At three
weeks of age we generally move them to a larger area,
but we still make sure that it is draft free.
Remember a chilled puppy will generally not try to nurse
and also it cannot digest any milk. Gradually warm the pup.
At times, such as the story of Stuart Little, we have had
to intervene and take over the care and feeding of a pup.
Each puppy is different, so what may work well for one,
may not work at all for another. I guess this is where
a little experience can really help.
When we began raising Stuart he was a newborn pup. We
began feeding him every two hours, but soon found that
with one so tiny, his birth weight was one ounce, that this
was not enough. So we fed Stuart every hour and a half,
around the clock. Eventually we were able to extend the
time to two hours, then three, etc, but this was a long
process that lasted for weeks. Stuart did not have a very
good sucking reflex, so we "assisted" him, by feeding him
with a syringe with a tiny nipple on it. This can be a
very dangerous way to feed, you have to use extreme
caution not to force too much milk too fast, I cannot
stress this enough. Go very, very slow.
It was also a hard task to keep Stuart warm enough. We
were up feeding him so often that we were able to keep him
warm with rubber gloves, filled with hot water wrapped in
hand towels. Stuart would climb up on the gloves and
sleep in between the fingers of the glove.
We did have a period of time were Stuart refused to eat at
all and I had to tube feed him. Again we fed every hour
and a half. The amount to tube feed is generally 1 cc per
each ounce of body weight. Stuart started off with 1 cc
at each feeding. Fortunately this only lasted a couple of
days and Stuart was back on the syringe.
A pup can also become dehydrated quite easily. We have had
to give a puppy fluids subq to rehydrate them. Unless this
is something that you are familiar with, this is probably
best left to a licensed veterinarian. To check for
dehydration, gently pinch the skin on the back of the
pups neck or shoulders.In a well hydrated pup the skin
will go back down immediately, in a dehydrated pup the
skin will stay up, it doesn't spring back into place.
This is serious, see your vet immediately.
A puppy also has to be helped to urinate and defecate after
each feeding. This is very important. By rubbing the areas
very gently with a warm, damp cotton ball, this should
stimulate the pup as the Mom would.
We began feeding Stuart Pedialite the first day, and then
began feeding milk replacer. We have successfully hand
raised several little ones now, it does requires complete
and total dedication, for weeks this is all you will do.
The end results are not always successful, no matter how
hard you try, the pup has to try also. But the little
ones that do try, I cannot even put into words the joy
that you feel seeing these pups thrive and grow with your
help and nurturing.
We hope this page helped even a little bit. If you have
any questions at all please don't hesitate to email us.
We wish you the best of luck with your new little one.



HOMEMADE MILK REPLACER
This formula is the best, it will last
7-10 days in the refridgerator and
the puppies thrive on it. We have
raised several pups on this and
highly recommend this formula !
1 can evaporated milk
2 cups water
1 cup whole milk yogurt
1 tblsp white Karo syrup
1 tblsp mayonnaise
1-2 egg yolks.
Mix well in blender, keep refridgerated.
Moms love this formula also.

http://www.talktothevet.com/ARTICLES/DOGS/newbornpuppycare.HTM

Warmth: Room temperature should be at least 70 F. The puppies should be kept off cold floors because chilling can be fatal to young puppies.

Nursing: A well-fed healthy puppy has a round stomach and seems content. Notify a veterinarian if the puppies seem uneasy or cry frequently.

Crying: Extended crying is usually a sign of trouble and should be reported to a doctor immediately.

Tail docking/dewclaw removal: Puppies of breeds in which these procedures are done should be presented at 2-5 days of age.

Eyes: The puppies' eyes should be open at 10-14 days of age.

Weaning: Soon after the puppies' eyes are open, pan feeding of puppy milk may be started. Other puppy foods may then gradually be added.

Worms: A stool specimen should be brought to a veterinarian's office for laboratory examination when the puppies are as early as 2-4 weeks old (especially if any puppy in the litter is ill or under developing.

Vaccinations: A series of immunizations should begin at 6-8 weeks of age. Your doctor will recommend a schedule for the appropriate vaccinations.

2006-11-17 17:27:04 · answer #5 · answered by Stephanie F 7 · 0 0

Are you having to riase orphaned puppies? If not, mom will know what to do. Just keep an eye on them for wandering around. If so, here is a great site with tons of detailed answers on what to do at each stage and age:

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1651&articleid=863

If you're talking about an older puppy you're wanting to house train, here is some great information on crate training which works best:

http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html

2006-11-17 17:24:33 · answer #6 · answered by MasLoozinIt76 6 · 0 0

To begin with you kinda have to think of this as training for you to . Like most babies when they wake up, after they eat ,or drink is when they have to go wee an poo.So go with them and show them where you want then to go and they generally will sniff and pick a spot When this happens use words and treats to praise them . Some start with newspaper in the corner of the room Each to their own.Asking your dog if he needs to go outside to go pee, will give that option to them

2006-11-17 17:32:22 · answer #7 · answered by forestfairy 1 · 0 0

this sin't about pugs but it helped me!
http://www.chihuahualoving.com
also you could get help from breeders on my furbaby forum
http://www.mokashouse.tk

2006-11-17 17:27:19 · answer #8 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

fedest.com, questions and answers