I started by brewing 1 gallon batches.
For a real simple brew, cook 4 to 5 cups cracked barley for every gallon you plan to make.
Heat the mash (water and grains) to 140F, and keep at that temp for approx. 45 min.
Strain out the grains and then rinse them by sprinkling with cold water.
Add your hops (2 ounces is a good number) to the wort (unfermented beer) and leave at 120f. for 15 min.
Strain again.
I dissolved about a cup of brown sugar in the wort at this point.
Cool to 75F, then add yeast.
Mix vigorously, the more air you get into it the better.
Cover, stick in a dark corner, keep the room temp at 70 and let ferment.
After about a week you should have a good layer of yeast at the bottom for your brew, siphon the beer off into a new container and let it age.
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It's a terribly rudimentary recipe but then brewing beer isn't actually all that hard once you know the steps. There are lots of types of grains, lots of hops, and a good number of yeast strains, any will do.
One misconception I had when I started brewing was that beer goes bad quickly. The truth is that it's much like wine, take care of it and it will get better.
2006-11-04 04:09:20
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answer #1
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answered by sandeep k 5
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sandeep had some great ideas.
brewing beer is not bs by the way, dont tell the brew shop guys that. theyll hate you. haha!
buy or borrow the book "how to brew" by jim palmer. ive been brewing my own beer for some time now and this is the absolute best book for anyone and everyone wanting to get started. you can learn as much or as little as you want. and he starts you right off with brewing your first batch: a quickie crash course. and it works.
STAY AWAY from all grain brewing. it takes FOREVER (5-6 hours) and will sap the fun factor right out if the whole process your first time out. use malt extracts to brew. liquid malt extract is easier to work with than dried malt extract.
find a local brew place, get a brew kit and a beer kit of your choice and follow their recommendations. the really cool thing ive noticed about these shop owners is that they are no slouches. they love to brew wine or beer and you will see their passion as they are about to introduce someone new to the unbelievable fun of homebrewing.
the reason why all recipes are 5 gallons is nothing more than the conventional way: thats the way it is.
and believe me, when you start brewing more often, 5 gallons will be nowhere near enough. and it sounds like a lot but its not. its two 24 bottle cases.. thats not a lot. it will be gone before you know it. ive never known anyone personally that didnt want to try my homebrewed beer just to try it so itll go quick.
BREWING YOUR OWN BEER IS NOT HARD AT ALL!
good luck!
e mail me for insider tips and tricks if you like
eastcoastrockerdude@yahoo.com
2006-11-04 13:14:54
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answer #2
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answered by eastcoastrockerdude 3
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What you need
Equipment
The few items you need to brew your own homemade beer can be found at your nearest beermaking supply shop, or at most hardware stores.
- One 10-gallon "food grade" plastic pail with lid. Cost: about $12.00
- Siphon hose. You'll need a 74" length of 5/16" "food grade" vinyl tubing. Cost: $2.00
- Hose clamp for siphon. Cost: $1.00
- Twelve 2- liter plastic pop bottles, with lids.
- Hydrometer. Cost: $8.00. A thermometer is also useful.
- Large pot, or turkey roaster.
Ingredients
- Malt Extract. One 40oz. can of any flavor you like ( light, dark, stout), or a 1.5kg "tall" can of same. The 1.5kg can contains more malt extract so you can make a larger batch or use the same method here to make a richer beer. You can also buy 'pre-hopped' extract which will impart more of a hop flavor to your beer.
- Yeast. 1 tsp brewers' yeast. Note: some malt comes with little packets of yeast included.
- Sugar. 6 - 7 cups of regular white sugar, or 8 - 9 cups of corn sugar (preferred).
For even better results, consider using two cans of the malt extract and not using any sugar. This adds to the expense, but greatly improves the taste of the beer.
These ingredients should cost between $10 - 15 depending on your choice of malt extract. The yield will be about 23 liters of beer, which equals 65 - 70 bottles or cans of beer, of the regular 345ml size.
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How to brew
Sanitize
It has been said that 75% of brewing is good sanitation. First, clean all equipment with warm, lightly soapy water. Rinse well to remove soap residue. Then sanitize using household bleach at a quantity of 1 tbsp/gallon of water. Or you can purchase a no-rinse acid sanitizer such as StarSan, which is effective and leaves no aftertaste.
Brew
1. Pour 10 liters of fresh, cold water into the 10 gallon plastic pail (carboy). If the pail is new, wash it out first with a mixture of water and baking soda to remove the plastic smell.
2. In your largest pot, bring 7 liters of water to a boil.
3. Add one can of malt extract. Stir and cook uncovered for 20 minutes.
4. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve.
5. As soon as the sugar is dissolved, pour contents into the carboy. Pour, or 'splash', the contents quickly, which adds air to the mixture. The more air the yeast get initially, the better. It allows them to rapidly grow and get things going.
6. Top up with bottled drinking water or tapwater until temperature is neutral. (If using tapwater, it is recommended to boil first to kill bacteria, then cool to room temperature.) Test using a clean, sanitized thermometer. The carboy will now be a little more than half full.
7. Sprinkle in the yeast, and stir well. Cover with lid. (Set lid on loosely; if capped too tightly, a carboy can explode from the carbon dioxide gas that is produced.)
Keep covered and avoid unnecessary opening. The beer will be ready to bottle in 6- 10 days, depending on ambient temperature of the room and amount of sugar used in the brewing. Room temperature should be 20-24 Celsius at the highest; 16-20 Celsius is better but it will take the beer a day or two longer to ferment.
Test for readiness with a hydrometer. Set hydrometer into the beer and spin it once to release bubbles which cling to it and give a false reading. The "ready to bottle" reading should be about 1.008 for dark beers and 1.010-1.015 for light beers. If you don't have a hydrometer, you can judge readiness by tasting a sample - it should not be sweet tasting. There should be little or no bubbling action in the beer.
Bottle
Set the carboy on a sturdy table and the 12 2-liter bottles on the floor, with newspaper underneath to catch drips or overflows. Using a funnel, put 2 level teaspoons of sugar in each bottle.
Siphon the beer into the bottles, trying not to disturb the sediment on the bottom of the carboy. (One method is to tape a plastic straw alongside the bottom end of the siphon hose with 1" projecting beyond the end. The tip of the straw can touch the bottom of the carboy without the siphon drawing up sediment.) Tip the carboy as you near the bottom.
It is important to not splash or agitate the beer too much when bottling as any oxygen introduced can lead to oxidation and a “cardboard” taste.
As you fill the bottles, keep the end of the siphon tube near the bottom of the bottle to avoid frothing. It is essential that the bottles ar not completely filled - leave an airspace. Screw the caps on tightly. Invert each bottle and shake to dissolve sugar on the bottom. Set bottles in a warm area for the first few days, then store in a dark, cool spot. You can drink the beer within a few days of bottling, but it will improve with age.
2006-11-04 16:09:54
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answer #3
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answered by slimshady3in 4
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homemade FRUIT BEER , NON Alcoholic works best for the SKIN and can be consumed by one and all, even your children , elders , YOU need to take APPLES , ORANGE, PINEAPPLE and take out the JUICE . Add AMLA (GOOSEBERRY) for BITTER AND BEST RESULTS
2006-11-04 12:58:26
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answer #4
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answered by s a 3
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http://howtobrew.com is all you need to know.
2006-11-04 14:34:59
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answer #5
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answered by Trid 6
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