my japenese akita puppy wont come back!?

Question

i have a japenese akita puppy who loves to run. however if i let him off his lead i'll never see him again beause he wont come back. i really want to let him off his lead. any suggestions?

Answer 1

dog park.

I had an akita for over 10 years. lost her this past July and I miss her a lot. smart dog and strong as heck but independant to the end.

Answer 2

One of the best ways to train a dog to come when called is to buy a training leash which should be a minimum of 15 to 20 feet. Hook the leash to your puppy and let it run away then call it by it's name and say come afterward,after that start pulling gently on the leash until the puppy is all the way to you give a treat.After some time the puppy will learn that coming to you is fun.You should also train her to sit when she gets to you so she is focused on you and just wont come and leave all at the same time.Akitas are wonderful pets but they need to be very well trained and socialized.If you don't feel confident in training the pup all on your own go to a dog trainer and ask for advice or pay to have lessons, and have fun with your dog,take him out often, go on walks, play fetch, take him to a dog park if he is over 4 months and has had his shots.But spend about 20 to 30 minutes everyday training him to have a safe reliable pet.

Answer 3

Akitas are very strong willed dogs and require someone with a firm hand and knowledge on how to train them. Do not let him run free if he runs away or someday he will get killed. Watch the Dog Whisperer on National Geographic TV channel. He is awesome http://www.dogpsychologycenter.com/tips/index.php

Answer 4

Use a 20' training leash ($6 at WalMart). Walk him on it, and every so often call him to you and reward him when he comes with a tidbit. Be consistant with your recall and reward. Even if you didn't call him and he comes to you, reward him. Eventually you'll be able to let him play with the leash dragging behind him. With 20' dragging behind him, you'll have something to grab onto if he tries to take off. That what's used in Obedience classes.

Answer 5

Hi work with him on a long line held so he has freedom but you can pull him in when you need to...this will work with lots of praise & encouragment...call your dog in & rewards him when he gets to you even if you have drawn him in on the line...as soon as he gets to you praise him & give him a reward treat...carry on doing this...Never lose your temper with him when training & if you feel you are losing it them take a break...I have been an instructor & have trained many dogs to high standards of obedience...I can be reached thru my website at the foot of this email if you need more info...If you mail please use a title that referes to my name or I may delete as spam...Regards Jake

Answer 6

you could try obedience school if you can afford it. barring that you could use the leash and have your dog learn to walk close to you....kind of like your own more personal obedience program.

also your dog needs to get to know you better. they listen pretty good to the tones of your voice and scare easily. they know if you are concerned. once i had a dog and i introduced clapping my hands into a sort of fun time so that when we were out together...if i clapped my hands and acted like i was fun then the dog came back. you'll learn to relate to your friend over time . be patient and have fun

Answer 7

He doesn't realize you are the leader of the pack. Call him "kimi" which is a kind of top-down way of saying "you" in Japanese.

Answer 8

YOUR PUPPY DID NOT COME PREPROGRAMMED FOR COME OR SIT OR DOWN OR STAY OR ANYTHING ELSE

Okay - I just copied this over from my notes that I give clients:

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Back to basics - and get a LONG LINE

Now the first step is to get a 6 ft leash - no more and no less and collar that works.

I HATE those "gentle leader" things. First, they are one good way to give your dog a case of cervical whiplash - dog leaps one way, you haul the other and it is the neck that takes the hit. . Second, the minute you take it off the dog KNOWS that you have no means of making them obey. Third, teaching 'come' or anything where the dog is not at your side is impossible. They are a shortcut to get temporary - and I do mean temporary control while walking for people too dumb or too lazy to teach their dog proper manners. I spend a lot of time making house to calls to teach puppy to come , sit, stay, down and heel after the owners paid money for 'obedience classes' with someone for 'training' with those head collar things.

There is NO REASON to use a pinch collar except as an absolute last ditch resort. They are popular with the public because they work - they work because they are SEVERE!

Under the AKC rules it is ILLEGAL to even walk a dog about on the show grounds using a headhalter or funky martingale or pinch collar - and the reason is that the dog is fundamentally OUT OF CONTROL and has no idea of how to behave or obey if they have to be moved about by those gadgets.

In AKC obedience competitions there are only TWO collars permitted: a flat buckle collar and a slip/choke chain choice of 95% of competitive obedience people.)

Apparently it doesn't occur to most of these so-called experts who moan and wail about slip/choke collars and who have never proved their skills in competition that maybe those who spend the time training and competing their performance dogs know more than them or the "trainer" at Petsmart who has never really learned the skills for training. Now can his/her doggy do a drop on recall, retrieve work by sight and by scent, hand signals for all commands, go-outs; directional patterns; hold a sit or down stay off leash in a line of dogs with mass confusion for 5-10 minutes, heel off leash through crowds out in public; track someone or something with no known starting point .... Hmmm, didn't think so.

Also wonder if they have ever taken a look at what collars Service Dogs wear in addition to their harnesses? They can take a guess and here is a hint: it is not flat buckles, it is not a head halter (hard to 'get and bring something totheir partner with their mouth strapped shut) , it is not a body harness; it is not a martingale thing; it is not a pinch....now what is the answer??

Moreover the dogs quickly learn that the owner is dependent upon the gadget -- no gadget, GREAT - I'll do exactly as I please!

Since with a good-size dog who is bolting off, trying to use a flat buckle collar means (a) watersking after the dog or (b) getting pulled flat on your face, the choice is the only other collar allowed in AKC obedience competition - a slip/choke. You can use a flat collar on a dog that is less than 10-15 lbs but much heavier than that and you are dragging him by the throat with a flat collar and have no way to snap and ease off - the dog can brace against you too much.

Go get a chain slip collar. The nylon are not that effective(about 3/4s less effective) and with the chain, the dog learns to listen for the rattle of the collar if the leash moves slightly and respond now. Properly fitted, there should be 3 1/2 to 4 fingers of space between the collar and dog.

Now any piece of equipment can be misused by some idiot who doesn't know what they are doing. SO learn to use it. You SNAP the collar - NEVER pull or drag. It is a fast jerk/release. Put it on your wrist and have someone try pulling and then snapping on you. You do it to someone else. When it feels like a slight whack or bump when the leash is snapped you have the idea. I always put the slip collar on my student's arm to show them the difference in the movement. Gets the point across real fast.

Put the slip collar on the dog so when the junction of the rings is facing you on the side of the dog's neck, the part that slides comes across the back of the dog's neck towards you.



Here are excerpts from the instructions I give clients on "come" and general things about praise and correction:

Treats and toys don't work!! Those only work if the dog wants the treat or toy more than he wants to do something else. That is the fundamental problem with the current fad of "bribe doggy to listen."

You have to MAKE him do what you ask when he doesn't want to - and give him a very good reason not to disobey you, and a very good reason to obey you. He gets to choose – the praise or the correction – which will it be?

Would you ALWAYS obey the speed limits if there was no risk of a ticket?? If you wouldn't get arrested, would you grow pot in the backyard if it made a lot of money for you?

The only about "postive only " training that I can POSITIVELY guarantee is that one day the training will NOT work when the dog would rather chase the rabbit than come for the treat.

All the current fads - "positive only with treats and toys or Milan all promise the same thing - fast results with no real work. Do you see a police officer give his ptrol dog a cookie every time he obeys? Do you see the partner of a Guide Dog give the dog a cookie because it took him across the street? Watch the AKC Eukanuba Obedience Championship Competition on TV next January and see if you see a single handler give their dog a cookie? The answer to all of these is a resounding NO because those dogs perform to get praise in the form of pets, hugs, body hugs, tummy rubs and your voice and to avoid being corrected and made to do it properly and scolded in a deep stern voice while the handler frowns at them..

Clickers are just flat stupid - they are for people who are too dumb to figure out how to quickly say "GOOD DOG" in a happy, excited voice.

You always have your hands and your voice. Use them



Training a dog properly is WORK. W-O-R-K. It takes time, dedication, persistence and repetition. I have always said that I could teach any dog to the basics in 2 weeks - it was the owners in my classes that took the 10-12 weeks to teach them how to do it.

Go to the hardware store. Get 3 lengths of ¼ inch to 3/8 inch soft nylon line – 20 foot, 50 foot and 100 foot. Get 3 snaps. Tie the snaps on one end and make a loop handle on the other.

Start with the 20 foot line. Use a slip collar that is fitted so there is 3 - 4 fingers of space between the dog’s neck and the collar. With a flat buckle collar, you are in a pulling match that you are going to lose with about any dog over 15-20 lbs.


Put the leash and collar on the dog. Walk off with her at your side in heel position. Go along for a distance - say 20-40 feet - and then you loosen the lead and run backwards saying "come, come" making the dog turn and come to you. Try to keep going about 15-20 feet in reverse. Make her come all the way to you by gathering in the leash. Lots of praise - pets hugs tummy rubs and voice - NOT treats. If the dog ignores you, you do NOT drag - you use a series of sharp jerk/release on the leash or line.

Move on to the long line.

Hook the line on her collar. Hopefully she knows sit and wait. If not, teach it to her. If she does know sit and wait, put her in a sit, step back 2 or 3 steps and call her. If she doesn’t come, haul her in with the line.

When she comes over a distance of 5-6 feet, move back to 10-12 feet and call her.

Repeat this process until she is working on the 100 foot line.

You can also take her out on the long line and when she is happily distracted, call her and make her come.

ALWAYS ALWAYS use the dog's name " Muffy - come" The name gets their attention that you mean them and you are not just talking to someone and the word that is the command is being used in conversation. Name first - then command.

NEVER TAKE HER OUTSIDE WITHOUT A LEASH (6 ft) OR ONE OF THE LONG LINES. NEVER TURN HER LOOSE OFF LEAD AND CALL HER UNTIL SHE COMES 100% OF THE TIME ON THE 100 FOOT LINE WITH ALL KINDS OF DISTRACTIONS, IE: OTHER DOGS, KIDS PLAYING, TOYS BEING THROWN IN HER PATH AS SHE COMES, ETC.


When you say “come” and she doesn’t, haul her backside into you using the line repeating “come”, “come”. Use a STERN DEEP voice that brooks no argument about the matter if the dog already knows the command 'come' and is choosing to disobey.

Whatever you do , don't let your voice slide upwards into high tones unless you are giving praise. When you give a command, used an authoritative voice and sound like you mean it - and not "would you please 'come'-if you happen to feel like it of course."


When she gets to you – willingly or unwillingly, praise and pet and make a big fuss and tell her that she is such a good girl.

Never ever ever call a dog to you to punish or correct them once they get to you. Ignoring you and not coming makes you growl at them (the stern voice insisting they obey) just like the boss dog would do. Getting to you (no matter whether voluntarily or involuntary) is a good thing and gets rewarded.


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Now you both need a GOOD obedience class - and that is NOT Petsmart or Petco.

GO here to find contacts in you area that can help you locate and obedience trainer who works with all breeds and who does AKC obedience competitions competing at what they claim to teach – no proof of ability like winning:

http://www.akc.org/clubs/search/index.cf...

http://www.akc.org/clubs/search/index.cf... (set on all breeds)


http://www.akc.org/clubs/search/index.cf...

Even it they are an hour or more away, they will know other people all over the state.