how do you move a doorway in a load bearing wall?

Question

It just has to be moved about 6 " to accomodate new kitchen cupboards

Answer 1

if its load bearing, u should remove the the header that is above the door now and replace......u will need to brace the ceiling joist/second story floor joist, on both sides of the header in question by:

build a temp wall out of 2x4 with a top and bottom plate about 2' away from the doorway....this will support the ceiling while u remove the the header.....relocate the header and the header jacks( they support the header) depending on the size door way, todays codes r.....header up to 3' single jacks on each side, over 3' and up to 5' u need double jacks on each side, so remember to add to the length of the header to allow for the width of the jacks...they r, 1 1/2" each...

also u need to be sure that u have floor joist that run perpendicular to the wall that the header wall is resting on....if not then u will need to add floor joist under the new location of the jacks that support the header.....this way u r transferring the load of the ceiling thru the header thru the jacks down to the floor joist.....

just draw it out on paper and measure twice and cut once......

lic. gen. contractor

Answer 2

Not really a simple task. The framed opening inside the wall has what is called a header that supports the bearing weight over the opening. Could you just narrow the doorway the distance you need? Leave the door off the opening. Usually the framing set-up for a doorway is a 2x4 stud oneither side of the header (the horizontal piece) with another 2x4 under it on each side, called a cripple. You could remove the 2x4 from the furthest side from the cabinets and replace it with a 1x4. Most codes state that at least half the nominal width of the member must be used for support. Then add another 2x4 or two on the side nearest the cabinets until you have the space you need. Can you just reduce the size of one of the cabinets the required amount? The smaller cabinet will cost less and it will save you the possibilty of more headaches. Review allyour options before you go tearing the wall apart. Might save you alot in the long run. Good luck.

Answer 3

As with any wall you will remove the door and remove the 2x4 on the side you are going toward. Move it over the distance you need and reattach the 2x4 if it is damaged you may want to replace it with a new one. Leave the other in place and just add a new 2x4 to that side by adding the distance you moved the other in your case 6 inches. BY the way carefully remove the door and the door jam before you do anything. make the new opening the same size as the old opening except it is 6 inches to your left or right ? Finish the opening beside the door with what ever the existing wall is made of IE. plaster, drywall and finish it with paint or wallpaper. carefully re attach the door jam and hang the door. Great looking kitchen. Congratulations. As for the load bearing wall IT is not affected with this subtle change in the placement of the door.rehang the door.

Answer 4

if you have a wall above then its obviously load bearing having read your info it seems that at some time this wall was an external wall and if so its definitely load bearing ...also go upstairs into the room above ..if the floorboards run Parallel to the wall you want to remove below ...then the floor joist sit on that wall again more load bearing

Answer 5

Rebrace the load with 6x6s (plural, mind you), move your doorway over, reinstall your door with the proper amount of load bearing king studs, and drywall over your old doorway.

I'd probably keep another few braces in the drywall where your door used to be as well.

FYI, I'm not a carpenter or a contractor. Just a DIYer.

Answer 6

you have to build a header to take the weight of the wall