Peeing:
Don't reward negative behavior (peeing) with positive reactions (taking her outside). Kennel-training can work well: put her in the kennel most of the time, and take her out frequently. Dogs don't like peeing in their beds. If she pees outside, the second she pees swoop in with treats and massive praise (GOOD DOOOOOOG!!!! GOOOOD PEEEEEE!!!!!... Reaffirming a command by coupling it with the word "good" after the dog does the good behavior reinforces their understanding that it's good for them to do, and it reiterates WHAT the good act was, so they can associate "pee", in the outdoor setting, with praise). After a time you'll be able to wean her off the treats, but I still give my dog praise when he pees. I tell him, and he goes: "Pee" or "Poop" works, because I can distinguish between them (and so can he) when I want him to do something. Therefore, there's no confusion between one act and another, by both receiving the same command (for example, if you just say "potty", but the dog has already peed, this can confuse the dog and make her wonder why she's being told this again... separating the two will allow you to tell her to do the one she hasn't yet done, and her to understand better). Praise is the best thing: ruffle the dogs hair, pet, scratch and rub the dog (her ears, for example)... dogs are big attention-lovers. My little dog used to pee all the time in the house, and I couldn't get him to stop (for years I'd give him a couple spanks, I'd rub his nose in it,... he knew it was wrong, and he'd cower, but he'd still do it again other times)........ until I started giving him LOADS of praise when he'd pee outside. I also stopped scolding him when he'd go INside... it has worked well... after years of peeing/pooping inside, he's finally stopped altogether. Sometimes, dogs will do bad things to get attention. My dog definitely did... he'd pee two feet from you as you sit and ignore him with the computer, and he'd cower, but again, he'd do it later too... I found that when I didn't respond to his actions, he did it less fequently. NOT responding to the bad things and ALWAYS responding to the good has helped retrain him, so that he doesn't think he can get attention by doing bad stuff just because he's feeling ignored. He no longer pees inside. Keep in mind, this is how MY dog responds (favorably to attention)... you may have to adapt these things to your dog, as she may have a different mindset.
If she's peeing on her way outside, like after she gets out of the kennel or something, try putting a diaper or similar on her that will let her feel it when it happens. If she has to SIT in it, she will not want to DO it. Leave the diaper on a while after she pees herself, so she doesn't just start to think that's okay too (uh, preferably something that won't leak out onto the carpet, though). Just leave a clean diaper on 24/7, except when she gets outside (take it off). Again, give her commands, and praise her when she complies (saying "good" and the command again). When she's done, put the diaper back on before going back inside. Take her out often, cuz puppies can't hold much for long. Eventually, she will likely get the hint that peeing is to be left to the outdoors, and will hopefully not do it anymore (whether out of excitement, for the attention--good or bad--or for whatever else).
And remember... she's a puppy :) At 4 months she should fully understand the idea of potty-training, but not all dogs grow at the same rate. For my dog, it took years, until I realized his attention-seeking ways and started counter-acting: praising good, ignoring bad. Like children, every dog needs their own set of rules and responses from the parents. Hopefully the stuff I've said will help you get a handle on this... if not, adapt what I've suggested to fit your dog's needs/behaviors, and pay attention to your dog's responses.
If nothing else, if she DOES pee on the carpet, use vinegar (such as white distilled) mixed with water (maybe 1/4 cup vinegar in a standard glass of water... or proportionately less for smaller messes). Dump the vinegar-water on the carpet after you've soaked all pee up, and let the vinegar-water soak in... it'll neutralize the pee smell, so the dog won't be influenced to go back to the same spots and pee later. After the vinegar soaks in a few minutes, just soak it back out with a towel or whatever else. :) You can use your normal carpet cleaner before or after the vinegar, too... I've never had any problems with this method (no carpet discoloration), but perhaps test a hidden area first to be sure. Oh, and I know vinegar stinks... trust me, later you'll totally forget the vinegar was ever on the carpet, cuz the smell will just sort of dissolve (for me, usually by the next day... basically once it's totally dry again). It stinks a lot less, and for a lot shorter time, than carpet cleaners.
Biting:
Never hit. Hitting can create a different response, one which may cause the dog to become fearful and ultimately mean. Firmness with actions and CONSISTENCE are the most key things. Be clear, concise (one-syllable commands work best for low confusion between commands: Sit, No, Up, On, Off, Down, Stop), but above all consistent!! Really!
When she starts to nibble, try quickly and deftly grabbing her snout, with your hand encircling it (careful not to get her with her tongue in her teeth... don't want to puncture it... puppies have super-sharp teeth--as I'm sure you learned!). Don't be violent, just be firm with the hold. As soon as you have hold of her snout, turn her face quickly toward your face (but, again, gentle is key: don't torque or twist... don't injure her neck or hurt her... the point is assertion of dominance, not pain... swiftness without injury will startle her, and holding firmly to her will keep her from wriggling away trying to keep playing). You can place a hand firmly at the apex of her skull as you tilt her face upward toward yours to help maintain control while she's trying to fight you off (dogs hate this type of thing... one good reason they learn from it). Get your face within a few inches of hers, look her STRAIGHT in the eyes (this is a dominance thing too... eye contact), and in a very low, menacing voice, say "(name)! No!" or just "no!" or "Stop!" would work (again... pick one command, and be consistent... have everyone in your household react the same, so she doesn't get confused from one person to another)... You don't have to yell, just speak firmly in a clear voice. If she's up on the furniture with you, it also doesn't hurt to push her off your lap/the furniture (make her jump down) or place her on the floor.. ignore.. if she's on the floor, once you've done the Snout, push her away and ignore (don't keep playing with) a few minutes. If she does it more than twice in a row, after you've done the snout and pushed her away and ignored her, do the Snout one more time, but instead of pushing her away, this time put her in her kennel.. it shows her she can't be let to play if she won't play nice. This should help condition her out of it... it works well with dogs I've had. It teaches her that what she is doing is wrong, but without violence (startling her with the speed can produce the same effect from her, but without turning her fearful or mean... if she fears you, this can compound her peeing problem... we had that problem with another of our dogs, this one a large-breed: he feared, because of being spanked in response to bad actions such as peeing as a 3-5 month-old puppy, so he peed for years, too, when we tried to take him out or certain people tried to play with him... so we had him peeing, then finally stop, then the other dog came along and started peeing... it was a messy cycle.. uh, no pun intended). Inflicting pain can often (and often does) have negative repercussions (such as mean/angry personality, willful and aggressive, problem peeing or bad social skill, etc). If you do hit for something, give her a couple swift slaps on the butt, like you were spanking her. Don't ever hit her on the back (it could damage her spine or other things) or on the head or face (brain damage or other problems can occur)... The rare occasion I spanked my dog, a couple open-handed slaps on his rear were more than enough to give him the point. He couldn't stand it--but neither can I. I use eye contact with him, and the snout thing is REALLY effective for when he does bad. After a while, if you use proper methods, your dog will just know when she's in trouble. My little dog knows what he's done wrong without any kind of reaction from me at this point other than a stare. He's so attention-hungry that if I menacingly say his name, and glare at him, and then point & tell him "Go!" (at which point he turns tail, runs two feet, then turns around to watch and try to inch his way back and get me to keep loving him... sometimes he'll linger in the doorway to look sad and watch... I tell him "Go!" and point again, and he runs out) and ignore him for a long while, he gets really dejected--it's the worst punishment for him :) He's so hard to resist, too, because he tries to get back in my good graces by rubbing on my leg like a cat would, or following me, and inching closer to me if I'm standing in one spot... But, as much as you love your dog and want to show her you forgive her, hold fast for at least 15-20 minutes! It'll seem like an eternity to her, but it'll get the point across (especially if she's as much of an attention-hog as my dog). Remember, consistence! Firm! :)
But again, remember, she's just a puppy :) Most puppies tend not to outgrow their puppy behaviors (nibbling, clawing, chewing things that aren't for them, scratching, etc) until they're a year or older..sometimes a couple years. Consistent reactions on your part will be the most effective way of shortening this puppy-stage-behavior's time. You'll get to a point where you can gauge her, and tell which way of punishing will be most effective for a particular crime.
I hope any of this helped! I've had dogs all my life (literally), so I've learned a few things :) Maybe they'll be useful for you, too
2006-10-27 13:12:49
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answer #1
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answered by Laius Slain! 2
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