MEAT FEEDING
The dog is of the family carnivora and was a flesh eating beast in the wild state. Well-preserved skeletons of wild or semi-wild dogs show that they were superbly healthy. Therefore, first and foremost, the dog is a meat-eater. Its entire body is adapted for a meat diet, from the teeth fashioned for tearing and crushing, the powerful jawbones and muscles, the very small muscular stomach and the short intestines; and above all, the very powerful digestive juices peculiar to the carnivorous animals. In health, the dog's juices, both of the stomach and mouth are strongly antiseptic and thus high meat and even flesh from diseased animals can be eaten without harmful effects.
The digestive capacity of the dog is very small when compared to that of other animals approximately the same size, i.e. ; a goat. Consequently, the general rule for the dogs is small amounts of highly concentrated foods of which raw meat is one of the foremost.
It should be mentioned that the primary reason for feeding the Natural Rearing Diet is this. The food MUST be digested by the dog. This ensures that the dog will develop its stomach muscles and digestive juices to their fullest extent, thus contributing to its health from the inside out. Articles about polluted commercial pet food and studies since the end of WWII, when commercial pet food became more and more popular, indicate dog diseases and ailments have increased to epidemic proportions. Aside from the possibly poor ingredients of commercial dog food, the real downfall is the fact that the food is predigested for the dog. The dog's insides don't have to do the work. If the digestive action is lacking, the rest of the dogs body suffers from the inside out. Another downfall of commercial dog food is the feeding of the starchy cereals with the meat. These should be two separate meals as it is in the Natural Rearing Diet.
Finally, how the meat should be fed. The foremost law is, ALWAYS RAW. The cooking of meat is more mischievous in its results than the mere killing of the life forces which are present in all organic substances. Cooking semi-digests (artificially), the substances so treated. In this unnatural breaking-down of the tissues, the rightful work of the stomach, intestines and digestive juices, having already been undertaken before the food is fed to the dog, these organs are left improperly exercised, will soften and atrophy and in time will be unable to cope with their natural work. Frozen meat must be thawed out.
Dogs fed habitually on cooked food diets (many are deprived altogether of meat) are host to a multitude of worms, failing of the kidneys and eye-sight as well as hearing. They often have an unpleasant body odor and bad breath from the filthy brown tartar deposits on the teeth. They also have a tendency to mature too quickly, putting extra stress on their systems and which also causes aging well before their time. Beef, horse meat and mutton are excellent. Head meat, (cheeks, tongue, etc.) is usually reasonably priced. Whole fresh rabbits can be fed, hair, skin and all. Hairy skin prevents any danger from bone-splintering and puncturing of the stomach or intestines. Moose and deer meat are also excellent.
Give lean muscle type meat to puppies under six months; liver, other organ meats and fat are too rich for the younger puppy and will cause loose stools. Long killed rabbit or poultry flesh needs some quick softening in a little water. Meat can be fed in egg size chunks to older puppies and adults.
LIVER:
The dog's natural craving for this organ of the animal body is explained by its energy vitamin content and the rich source of minerals found in this organ. Only feed liver when it is known beyond all doubt that it came from a healthy animal, and even so, liver is a common cause of diarrhea in dogs and cats; therefore feed sparingly not more than twice a week. Twenty percent of the meat diet can be made up of liver, heart and kidney as well as cut up tripe.
TRIPE:
This is a suitable food when raw, fresh and tender. It has to be cut up in quite small pieces. Once frozen or cooked, it becomes indigestible.
BONES:
When fed raw they are a canine's toothbrush. Through exercise they also improve the jaw structure and promote length of jaw. Soft bones are best for this (for puppies) such as ribs. The hard marrow bones are apt to wear new puppy teeth down unduly, but are fine for fully dentured adults. Bones which splinter and bones small enough for the dog to swallow whole, as well as poultry and sharp fish bones, should be avoided. Never feed bones on an empty stomach. Shank bones with the meat left on are excellent, providing exercise for the teeth and jaws as well as nutrition.
EGGS:
Eggs are a rich source of mineral salts and vitamins. The shells given in small amounts, pounded in a blender are a good form of giving natural calcium to the dog and are a fine aid to the building of well-textured bone. Eggs must be fresh, as staleness renders them indigestible. They should be fed raw, as cooking causes them to adhere to the digestive tract. Feed one egg on alternate days to adult dogs and puppies.
CEREAL FEEDING
Cereal feeding is of far less importance than meat feeding, but it is important enough, for it is on cereals the carnivorous life relies for most of the essential minerals as well as a majority of vitamins, including the vital fertility vitamin, E, present in the germ of the cereals, especially in wheat and maize.
The immense feeding value in cereals can be understood when one stops to think upon the magnificent health of a bull or stallion, raised on a vegetable diet. Dog owners who feed only meat and exclude cereals altogether are making a dietary error and the animals so fed cannot possibly enjoy total health; their diet being too one-sided will like wise have one-sided health. Equally bad is the feeding of popular white-flour cereals, for the food value of such is almost nil; all essential minerals, vitamins and cosmic forces which are all the reasons that the dogs need the cereals, are totally lacking in white flour, which merely forms a gluey paste in the stomach, the cause of the prevalent canine gastric disorders and general deficiency diseases, including rickets. It should be remembered that the dog always obtained some of the semi-digested cereals in his diet. His first action in killing his prey was-- and still is-- to rip open the abdomen and devour the grains and vegetable matter contained in the intestines of their usually herbivore prey.
Such grains obtained in this way would be semi-digested by the prey before its death, so some preparation of the cereals is required for dogs. The best method is flaking or rolling of the cereal by passing it through heated rollers as it is done at the mills. The flaked cereals should then be soaked in sour milk or cold vegetable stock overnight.
OATS:
Flaked or rolled they are a vital canine food. Being a very good source of iron, they also cleanse the blood and the intestines of impurities. They are a proven vital food for stud dogs and brood bitches. Border Collies of Great Britain and Scotland known for their stamina and resistance to cold are raised primarily on Oatmeal. Packet oats are already pre-cooked during flaking or rolling, so no further cooking is necessary, merely soak them overnight in sour milk or cold vegetable stock or buttermilk. Large flake or slow cooking oats are best. Quick oats soaked overnight get gummy. If quick oats are used, perhaps soak a few hours.
BARLEY:
This is a great aid in dog rearing because of the medicinal properties apart from its considerable food value. It is rich in antacid, magnesium, and it is an excellent blood cleanser and blood cooler in the hot weather.
RYE:
The rye must be fed as a whole grain. It is its outer coat that contains the fluorine, responsible for the formation of good teeth and strong nails. Being low in carbohydrates and fats content, it is good to feed to overweight dogs and it is also good to feed to miniature and toy breeds, as it keeps them tiny.
CORN:
This is a wonderful cereal and is the only cereal to sustain life for many months as a sole food. It is usually fed to the dog pre-cooked and flaked. One handful of flaked corn is sufficient daily ration for an average sized dog. (spaniel size) Winter only!
MILK FOODS
CLABBERED MILK:
Sour or "clabbered" milk has worm removing properties. The secret of making good clabbered milk is to keep the milk aerated during the making. The milk should stand in a warm place, or in the sunshine and be topped with thin paper or cotton to keep the flies and dust out. Do not sun heat above tepid. The standing milk should be stirred briskly with a fork morning, afternoon and night.
BUTTER:
This being an unnatural food, it should be used sparingly, as it is apt to cause liver problems in dogs and cats, despite their enjoyment of this food.
CHEESE:
Fresh white cheese or cottage cheese is a good food which most dogs enjoy. Solid yellow cheese is indigestible.
ROOT VEGETABLES
TURNIPS:
or parsnips, sweet potatoes and artichokes all are nutritious and rich in vitamins and minerals. They should be baked in an oven or sliced for quick boiling in a little hot, salted water. They are best fed mashed into the cereal. DO NOT feed the common potato; it is too watery for a canine food and also causes stomach gas and colic. Broccoli and cabbage are also excellent.
CARROTS:
Carrots are a root vegetable rich in vitamins and minerals. They are an excellent supplement for the canine cereal feed and are blood cleansing and worm removing. Prepare as advised for the root vegetables. Also feed a little raw, grated. That way carrots are likely to expel worms. Carrots also aid in the formation of good teeth enamel.
MISCELLANEOUS
HONEY:
Honey is the greatest of the natural energizers, a nerve tonic and a supreme heart tonic. Indeed it is the best known heart stimulant which is not a drug. Predigested by the bees, it is absorbed immediately into the bloodstream.
SEAWEED (KELP):
Is without a doubt, unequaled as a source of natural iodine. Adequate iodine insures luxuriant hair and skin health; lack gives rise to a very dry skin and loss of hair. Increased iodine intake permits better digestion and assimilation of the fatty elements in foods. The kelp also enhances the skin pigment and color tremendously.
COD AND HALIBUT OILS:
is further food value especially during the winter months. The main value of these fish oils is their power to combat rickets. Care should be taken that the oils are raw and unrefined. Use these oils sparingly, one teaspoon daily in the winter months is sufficient. DO NOT use during hot weather. Halibut oils are milder than cod, but as it spoils easily, it is best given in capsule form. Both oils should be kept from strong light and stored in dark bottles.
TOBASCO SAUCE:
One drop on dogs meat meal every once in a while is a good worm fighter, serving to make the intestines a hostile place for worms to get into the mucous lining and multiply.
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ANALYSIS OF DIET'S INGREDIENTS
GREENS MEATS CEREALS EGGS
Vitamin A Protien Carbohydrates Protien
Vitamin C Phosphorous Protien Fats
Iron Iron Thiamin Iron
Protien Vitamin B Vitamin B Vitamin A
Thiamin Thiamin Riboflavin Thiamin
Fibre Niacin Niacin Riboflavin
Riboflavin Fibre
Fats Vitamin E
MILK KELP WHEAT GERM FISH OILS
Calcium Iodine Zinc Vitamin D
Riboflavin Iron Magnesium Vitamin A
Thiamin Calcium Phosphorous
Vitamin A Phosphorous Vitamin E
Vitamin C B Vitamins
Vitamin D
Protien
Fats
LIVER HEART KIDNEY
Protien Iron Vitamin A
Thiamin
Riboflavin
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A puppy should never be coaxed or tempted to eat. If food is not eaten rapidly the puppy should be fasted for from twelve to twenty-four hours. Every puppy over four months old should have a half-day fast (e.g. give cereal later in the day than usual, then no meat) one day per week (suggested every Sunday); a whole day fast one day per month. Every adult a weekly one-day fast. For the natural rearing diet it is recommended there be one meatless day per week, using instead milk, eggs, white cheese with cereal. One fast day should follow this, giving fluids only and a laxative (senna tea for e.g.) the same night, also herbal pills the next morning. This simple nature treatment wards off disease toxins, rests the kidneys, which are always overworked on a meat diet, and rejuvenates the dog. Hungry dogs can be given a little honey in their water at meal times, or very watery diluted milk, or water from flaked oats or barley, obtained from pouring hot water over the flakes and soaking them over-night. A dog should be allowed to eat to capacity on plain whole-grain cereals, only controlling the amount of meat. A dog could well overeat on meat, but it is unlikely to do so on plain cereals. Never give hot food, lukewarm or cold is the natural temperature.
NATURAL REARING PUPPY DIET
8:00 a.m.
Fluid meal of raw milk (cow or goat), not dried or canned milk, strengthened with honey. 1-1 & 1/2 cups.
12:00 noon
Whole-grained flaked or rolled oats and barley soaked over-night in sour milk and a few finely chopped raisins. Alternately the cereal flakes can be soaked in cabbage or nettle water. Barley, being the most digestive of cereals, should be used for weaning, if available. A perfect cereal for growing puppies is two parts barley to one part oats soaked in sour milk overnight. Start with 1 cup, increase as puppy grows, probably never more than 3 cups; watch puppy's weight.
4:00 p.m.
Meat, raw, shredded. Meat should never be minced, the powerful stomach muscles must be used for meat digestion.
8:00 p.m.
Main meal. Meat; approximately 1 cup, more as puppy grows; plus:
one tablespoon wheat germ
one tablespoon bran (for extra roughage)
one teaspoon cod liver oil
one teaspoon seaweed (kelp)
one teaspoon finely chopped green leaves (parsley, watercress, dandelion leaves, mint or green celery chopped almost to a pulp.) This is essential to health!
one teaspoon chopped, raw onion (excellent when skin disorders or worms are present)
one raw egg on meat occasionally or in the cereal several times weekly
one teaspoon calcium carbonate OR ground egg shells per pound of meat
one teaspoon ground comfrey root (until mature growth)
1/4 teaspoon ascorbic acid (until mature growth)
Give large raw bones to gnaw frequently on full stomach only or Milkbone dog biscuits.
Allow plenty of drinking water, but restrict their drinking too soon after a meal. NEVER give water processed through a softener.
After four months, eliminate the 8:00 a.m. feeding and feed only at noon and at 4:00 p.m. and at 8:00 p.m.
The cereal allowances should be increased to fully satisfy the appetite, the meat to one pound or more and the raw vegetables to one dessert spoon.
After seven months, meals should be reduced to two, noon and 8:00 p.m. Sufficient food should be given to satisfy the appetite.
DO NOT prevent dogs or puppies from eating the earth or excreta from grass fed cattle, horses, deer etc., as this is a natural thing for carnivores. The dogs short intestines cannot digest vegetable matter with much efficiency, therefore eating partially digested animal dung gives them added nutrition. Also encourage them to eat grass.
NATURAL REARING ADULT DIET
MIDDAY
100% flaked or rolled cereal (wheat, rye, barley or oats) softened overnight with sour milk and vegetable stock or nettle tea, raw egg may be added to the cereal three or four times a week. Corn oil, olive oil or sunflower oil, two tablespoons for each averaged-sized dog. (1-1/2 - 4 cups depending on weight of dog).
EVENING
Meat, raw. A small amount of fat should be included, plus:
One tablespoon wheat germ flakes or more (up to 1/4 cup to improve coat)
One teaspoon cod or halibut oil (in winter months)
One or two teaspoons kelp
One heaped dessertspoon very fine chopped raw greens, such as parsley, watercress, or dandelion leaves. Also grated raw carrots can be added.
Several dessertspoons of bran to replace the loss of roughage that they got from the hide and hair of their prey.
One teaspoon of calcium carbonate or ground eggshells per pound of meat. (1 - 3 pounds depending on age and weight)
Give large raw bones frequently on full stomach only, or Milkbone dog biscuits.
NOTE:
Throughout this diet (both adult and puppy) meat and starch should not be mixed up in the same meal. They are incompatible and cause scouring (diarrhea), with the resultant indigestion being the root of gastritis and other disorders.
MORNING MILK FEEDING
(8:00 a.m.)(After four months old omit this feeding) 1-2 teaspoons slippery elm powder mixed with about one tablespoon honey and 1/2 cup warm, not too hot, water. Stir. Add 1/2 cup goat's milk. Stir again.
CEREAL FEEDING
(at about 12 noon)
(Cereal mix is: 4 parts oats 2 parts barley 1 part rye 1 part chopped raisins)
In winter 1 part flaked corn (not corn flakes) may be added. Corn is a blood warmer.
In one level cup of cereal add:
Clabbered (sour) raw unpasturized cow or goat milk (1/2 cup) reduce to a dash after 8 Months old
Nettle water, just enough to soak into cereal by morning. Make nettle water by putting about 1 teaspoon of nettles into jar and pouring boiling water over (like making tea)
One tablespoon corn oil
Two to three teaspoons honey
THIS MUST SOAK OVER NIGHT
( if fed to dogs after just being made the oats will swell in their belly)
Add a beaten egg to the cereal in the morning ABOUT EVERY THIRD DAY.
A tablespoon of yogurt can be added the odd time.
A teaspoon of tahini (sesame seed paste)can be added the odd time also.
FEEDING TIME
is between 11:00 am, and 1:00 p.m. If possible. If they don't eat their cereal or you can't be home to feed them at noon, they don't get meat. They can be offered their cereal again at night (between 6 and 9 p.m.) instead of meat. If they still don't eat, the cereal can be stored overnight and fed the next day, but not if there's an egg in it.
MEAT FEEDING
(4:00 p.m. - until pup is 8 months old)
1/2 cup or about 1 pound of raw meat
Ensure that it sits out long enough to not be too cold. Cover the dish so that flies cannot land on the food.
MEAT FEEDING
(evening)
Meat in the amount of the size of your fist
One to two teaspoons onion chopped fine
Heaping tblsp bran
Heaping tblsp wheat germ
tsp kelp
tsp comfrey root
1/4 teaspoon ascorbic acid
tsp ground egg shells OR Calcium carbonate
Pinch parsley
Pinch dandelion leaves (dried or can be picked from yard and chopped up)(yard dandelions should hot have been sprayed)
shredded carrots the odd day
some of your left over vegetables (not potatoes)
Splash of nettle water or an egg or just plain water will moisten the herbs and make the food easier to mix.
GIVE BONES
(thawed not cooked) ONLY IF THEY EAT AT LEAST HALF OF THEIR MEAT. If they're not finishing you may be overfeeding. If they are done and looking for more increase cereal feed first then slowly increase meat as well.
DOGS MAY GRAZE FREELY
in the back yard as long has nothing has been sprayed. They know how much grass to eat to soothe their stomach, vomit or move their bowels.
NO WATER
1 hour before and one hour after eating.
NO VIGOROUS EXERCISE
1 hour before and 3 hours after eating (may cause torsion or bloat)
DRY CEREAL MIX
(in large portion)
4 parts rolled oats
2 parts flaked barley
1 part flaked rye or rye meal
1 cup chopped raisins
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Dogs on Natural Diet
The diet is fairly clear concerning reasons to feed natural foods. The main reason is because the dog itself must digest its food. Commercial dog food is predigested. The digestive juices in the dogs system, from the mouth to the other end, must come into play, as must the powerful stomach muscles and jaws. This creates a healthy dog from the inside out. Parasites have a difficult time taking hold because the intestines become a hostile environment for them. Deworming, which is undesirable anyway, becomes unnecessary and in fact is more harmful than a few worms. Skeletal formation, including teeth and jaws are aided by this natural eating. All this, and a good chance to evade some of the common canine diseases that have infiltrated the dog world since the feeding of commercial foods began.
I'm sure that if driven by nothing more than to make money, the pet food companies are producing better quality foods than in the past. MAYBE! Still the whole problem is the food is predigested and fed as one meal, not two, separating the starchy cereal and meat proteins. And what of the raw bone after every meat meal? What about the fact that you always know what you're feeding when you feed natural food, but commercial foods of the same brand made in different batches may mean a diet change for your dog, causing diarrhea and upset stomach?
If you have any questions or comments please we're;
Larry and Valerie
vallarlane@cableregina.com
2006-10-24 12:16:13
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answer #1
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answered by C.J. W 3
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