many exterior paints are self priming so you do not to do a seperate prime job ...but you may need to do two coats of the creme color...if the wood is old ,dirty or flaking you should power wash th exterior and then prime any bare spots with an oil primer before you top coat . If the exterior is in pretty good shape just get a good self priming exterior paint and go for it. I suggest Benjamin Moore Mooreguard. ....Painting Contractor
2006-10-04 10:36:46
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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Painting....is the easiest and cheapest way of creating a better living space and protecting ourselves and our home.....it also seems to be the most misunderstood function a homeowner can take on. Some basic rules of thumb to make the job easier for inside or outside painting are;
1)When estimating amount of paint needed, measure the walls length and height, multiply them and get the total square footage. For instance, if the wall height is 7.5 feet, always round up for ease of math to 8 and if the wall is 10 feet long, that’s 80 square feet. Now if the room has four equal walls, that’s an easy equation, just take 80 x 4 and forget the windows and door ways, just keep it simple and multiply to get the total square footage of the walls, and in this case it’s 320 sf. If the ceiling is to be painted, measure the wall length on the short and long walls. A 15 by 20 room would be 300 sf, a 10 x 10 room would be 100 square feet. So, a 10 x10 room with 8 foot high walls would equal 320 sf of wall surface and 100 sf of ceiling, that’s a total of 420 square feet of surface to paint. Each paint manufacturer lists on the can how many square feet of coverage you can expect per gallon. Using that information and the fact that no matter how you paint, you’ll always need two coats, then you will need two gallons for the 10 x 10 room in the example.
2)When painting against moldings or door and window trim, tape the joint with blue tape. Make sure to burnish the tape so it sticks well. Do this to the entire area you have taped. Then, using some acrylic/latex caulking, put a thin bead on the edge of the tape where it meets the trim. Smooth it out ensuring good coverage and let it dry, usually for a bout 2 hours. Once it is dry, paint the edge covering the tape and the caulking. When you’re finished painting, remove the tape and you’ll have a perfectly trimmed molding, door or window casing.
3)When painting with a roller, use a roller pan and load your roller often and keep it full of paint. A big mistake a lot of people make is not using enough paint. Load up your roller or brush with paint constantly. If you’re thinking you want to minimize the amount of paint you’re going to use to save moeny, remember, they won’t take a premixed color back if you have any leftover, so you might as well use it all! You’ll find it a lot easier to paint if you keep your brush or roller full.
4)Cutting in with a brush is a difficult task for many people to master. A general rule of thumb is to keep your brush full of paint and drag the bristles across the edge of your work creating a bead of paint that moves with the bristles. It’s difficult to do, but with a little practice on the wall before you paint, you can create some nice straight lines. But if you just can’t get it down, try the tip above.
5)Always prime outside bare wood. This cannot be stressed enough. Whether it is a fence, a shed or the house, any outside wood, especially non-pressure treated wood MUST be primed first. The primer penetrates the surface of the wood and bonds to the wood best. I prefer an oil based primer, then a latex top coat. And remember, once the wood is primed, you only have a couple of weeks to get a top coat on the surface, check with the manufacturer and read the label. One last note, priming over existing paint is a waste of time and money. Primer is made for bare wood.
6)A good acrylic/latex caulk and lightweight spackle are a best friend for those painting a room. The caulking can be used to fill in unsightly joints and cracks, equal to or less than ¼”. And spackle can be used to fill in nails holes and also as a gap filler. Scraping the walls with a 6 in metal drywall knife is a good practice too, removing bumps and peeled paint.
I hope this information is valuable and helps you. I can be reached at rentahandyman@yahoo.com if you have any further questions.
2006-10-04 02:50:36
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answer #2
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answered by rentahandyman 2
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mixture up sufficient cement right into a mortar variety mixture and upload some cement crimson coloring powder from a Hardware shop and in line with risk you would be able to additionally desire some black to tone the crimson all the way down to examine the brick shade as close as achieveable. heavily fill the holes with the mortar mixture until eventually it starts off to exude from the drill holes. i certainly observed a restore being finished by potential of the guy dipping a eating straw into the mortar mixture and blowing gently for the duration of the straw with their mouth until eventually it develop into the comparable as I suggested previously, i think of you may would desire to be very fussy nevertheless to apply that technique. clean any extra off the bricks earlier it dries. If mandatory precise up the holes as quickly as the mortar contained in the holes is nearly dry. you may then clean any cement or coloring from the outdoors of the bricks after countless days utilising a diluted cement cleansing agent, many times hydrochloric acid diluted with water or each so often caustic Soda will do the comparable yet be quite careful because of the fact the acid or alkali can burn the floor or harm the eyes or harm clothing and so on. placed on shielding clothing and risk-free practices goggles in case you be certain to scrub it with the aforementioned chemical compounds
2016-10-01 22:22:42
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answer #3
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answered by ? 4
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