Kihim
We would be failing in our duty if we did not take time out to tell you about Kihim beach, which is in every guide book and is just a few kilometres from Mandwa. The islands of Khanderi and Undheri can be seen from there. We are told that the names are a bastardised versions of ‘Kenry’ and ‘Henry’. Khanderi now houses a lighthouse; you can see its beacon flashing from Bombay.
Both islands have ruined fortresses. It is possible to ride out to these islands by boat from Naigaon, which is a couple of kilometres drive south of Kihim. I once attempted an expedition, but the fisherman let us down in the morning. You can try your luck. The great Maratha warrior, Shivaji, is supposed to have engaged the British in fierce naval battles at Khanderi for control of the entrance to Bombay harbour.
Alibag
Alibag, the largest town in the neighbourhood, is worth a passing mention. It attracts hordes of day trippers from Bombay, especially during weekends and holidays. The fort out at sea is only approachable during low tides. It's a hard half-hour trek from the beach and has to be timed to avoid the sun and getting marooned. There is a small village inside the fort. So you won't be lonely even if you get marooned.
Chaul
It has a special place in Maratha maritime history. Shivaji’s navy is said to have had a base here and almost all his ocean forays, including the ones to reinforce Khanderi were undertaken from here.
There is an old temple, right next to the road, that has survived from those days. There are no milestones announcing the arrival of this village and it is better to stop and ask for directions. It's just before Revdanda.
Revdanda
Till a few years ago the coastal road that goes south from Alibag used to terminate at Revdanda where it encountered the Kundalika creek. A bridge now spans the creek and the whole stretch southward of Revdanda up to Murud-Janjira has now become accessible. Revdanda is a pretty little place. Part of the town is situated within the premises of an old Portuguese fort.
If you drive through the town, the road enters through an old archway and then exits from another before getting to the bridge.
If between these two archways you turn right and make a detour to the western portion of the fort, which reaches out into the sea, you have found a great vantage point. During high tide the waves crash onto the palm-fringed ramparts of the fort and you get a magnificent view of the creek to the south and the beach to the north. There is an entrance from the beach to the fort, but it is clogged with trash.
To get to the beach, you will have to double back north along the main road to Alibag and then inquire at at the edge of the local market for the road. The beach has very little shade and the sand is made up of black rock, giving it an unattractive shade of dark grey. The view from the fort is rather pretty.
Korlai
Before you proceed on from Revdanda towards the relatively well known beach of Kashid, be sure to check out Korlai village, its beach and ruined Portuguese fortress. The beach is approached by a rough, unpaved track that branches off west from the main road approximately 2 km after you cross the bridge. The junction of the road and the track is marked by an autorickshaw (a local three-wheeler taxi-cab) stand.
If you pass a church at a steep downward gradient immediately after you get off from the road then you are on the right track. The beach is beyond the village. Take a right turn in the centre of the village and go right past the fishermen’s cove. In all probability you will find the white sandy stretch all to yourself. For the more adventurous there is the lighthouse and the fort further north of the beach to explore. Both these are approached by a wide footpath on the hillside that snakes up towards the lighthouse colony.
Views of the creek, the meandering ramparts and the fort itself are picture perfect on a clear day for photography or sketching. The footpath has now become motorable and you can drive right up to the lighthouse if you have a vehicle. Look for a group of very shady banyan trees on the slopes just below the gate of the colony. It is an ideal spot to picnic and even has a small patch of sand that you can call your 'private' beach while you are there.
A steep 15-minute climb from behind the lighthouse leads to the fort. The fort is an Old Portuguese outpost that probably once guarded the entrance to the river and its hinterland. Unfortunately, as is common with almost all heritage sites in our country, the precincts are entirely in ruins.
It is advisable to exercise caution while exploring as the insides are overgrown with grass and trees and a few snakes are likely to powling around. But the fort is interesting all the same, with an old church, some old tombstones with interesting epitaphs. On the northern side, the view of the narrow battlements as they meander down to the mouth of the river are atmospheric.
Kashid and Nandgaon
The scenery, as the road progresses further south from Korlai, sometimes hugging the shoreline, sometimes climbing up thickly wooded slopes and then climbing down again offering stunning glimpses of Kashid’s beach, rates a perfect ten.
Don’t be surprised if, unconsciously, you find yourself parked at a spot enjoying the vista. Or, if travelling in a bus, you get the sudden urge to dismount and walk. Though Kashid is now fairly familiar with Bombayites it is a spectacular and secluded enough place that you must not miss on coastal rambles. The beach is set in a gentle curve of the coast with a thickly wooded hill on one end and a low rocky cliff at the other. The dense green forests on the higher slopes to the west only add colour to the scene and provide a fascinating backdrop.
There are two small hotels to the west of the road where you can freshen up, have a meal or stay. Nandgaon is a little further south towards Murud-Janjira. The beach is visible from the road and is surrounded on three sides by verdant and gently sloping hills. It makes for a lovely camping site if you have the wherewithal. The beach is tucked between stony precipices and almost far enough from the open sea to be called a cove. Rumour has it soon may be the site of an upmarket resort. So make haste before nature’s work is masked by man’s.
Murud-Janjira
This Muslim town once had its own nawab and his palace is prominently visible on a picturesque hill overlooking the entire area. We are told that these days he prefers to live in Bombay and the palace is open for visitors. But we have never found it open whenever we have been there. You can try your luck.
The main attraction of this town is the island fortress by the same name that is located about 4 km south at the mouth of the Rajpuri Creek. It’s not a very remote location and tourists from Bombay and Pune do make a beeline here during weekends.
To get to the fort, make your way to the town of Rajpuri either by bus or a local rickshaw. Huge sail boats take loads of tourists to the entrance of the fort and during high tide it is possible to jump off the boat and straight onto the steps outside the main gate. But during low tide, it is a painful walk without shoes over shingle and broken barnacles.
The fort was said to have been inhabited by a tribe called Siddhis, whom we are told were descendants of people from Assyria (now Ethiopia and Somalia) from the Horn of Africa. This fort has three lines of defence and the guide will tell you that throughout its entire history was never conquered, though Shivaji was said to have staked his pride over it. There are tales of his lieutenants having camped for years on the mainland opposite and of having tried to tunnel under the short stretch of sea separating it. Strangely, there is a huge fresh water lake right inside the fort, which must have sustained the population inside. It seems the nawab also used to live inside the fort till about a decade ago.
The fort is a pretty sight when you approach it from Murud town. The road climbs steeply up a hill and at the top of the climb the fort suddenly bursts into view below. The odd sailboat milling around the water bound fort adds colour. Definitely a spot to take some pictures if the sun is right. Though located on an island, the land is nowhere visible. You can only see the outermost ramparts of the fort with the sea lapping at it. It appears as if the fort has sprung up from the water.
What remains a mystery is the material the builders used to cement the huge pieces of rock together so that the constant action of the seawater does not affect it. An Indian pop group made it the venue for one of its albums and since then it has achieved some prominence.
Dapoli
The conventional route to the town of Dapoli bifurcates from the main NH 17. But if you are heading there directly from Srivardhan, it is better to take another parallel road that comes up through the town of Mandangarh. Just before the town of Goregaon turn south for Ambet and Mandangarh. It's a great shortcut. But Dapoli is not on the coastline. Head for the fishing villages of Harnai and Anjarle, which are beyond it. The Suwarnadurg fort is located on an island not far off from the mainland, near Harnai.
The stretch of coast west of Dapoli is apparently popular with the locals. If you carry on beyond the main town towards the fishing village of Harnai, just before the road turns north along the coastline, about four km short of Harnai at Murud, you will come across a group of signposts advertising hotels. It's approaching road is three-four km long, unmetalled and pretty rough with steep gradients. The hotels are near the village of Karde and are probably illegal constructions as they are locate bang on small but very scenic beaches. They offer very basic, but comfortable accommodation and good coastal cuisine of fresh fried fish. The road peters out south of the last hotel. But beyond there are gently rolling hills, an ancient seaside temple and some tiny hamlets -– ingredients that make for some good solitary walks.
There is another minor, smaller road that goes to the village of Burundi from Dapoli. The Hotel Sagar Savli, with just four rooms to let, is located just short of the village where the road ends. The drive is picture perfect with a good road. Local cabs also ply along this road. The beach is beautiful and though you have to book in advance -- preferably from Bombay -- even if you cannot find place to stay, its worth the trouble to visit.
Dabhol
Another road from Dapoli goes to the south where it ends at the mouth of the Vashishti river at the town of Dabhol – of the Dabhol Power Corporation and Enron Power Project fame. The project is coming up on the other side of the river, though it takes its name from this town.
If you are on a two-wheeler or travelling by bus, this is the town to head for to cross over to the other side of the Vashishti and continue down the coast using the ferry. The ferry services from Dabhol commence from 0730 hours to 1800 hours. However, it is better to check the exact timings at the port office near the jetty. The ferry takes you to the jetty at Veldur and the arrival and departure of the buses from there is synchronised with that of the ferry. If you have bypassed Dapoli completely, then you can take a ferry service from Chiplun and sail down the Vaishishti river right up to its mouth at Dabhol or Veldur. The ferry departs from Chiplun early in the morning at about 0400 hours and returns later in the day sometime in the late afternoon.
Dabhol itself is not much of a place, consisting of just a solitary road and a fishing jetty. But with the coming up of the power project, it is slowly gaining importance and is quite likely to be completely transformed in a few years. There isn't much to see and one can just while away time by taking lazy walks along the road. In the evening, the jetty comes alive as fishermen with their catch come in and auction it to middlemen, who immediately load it into trucks for transport inland. A local market sprouts up nearby at this time and if you have the wherewithal to cook your own meals, you can get a bargain price for some of the freshest fish you are likely to taste.
Anjanvel
The village of Anjanvel lies on the opposite side of the river mouth. To get there, take the early morning ferry to the jetty at Veldur as Anjanvel does not have its own jetty. The bus that goes from Veldur further south, first goes to Anjanvel to pick up more passengers. Alight at the bottom of the steep slope where Anjanvel’s makeshift bus stop is located. Ask for the fort of Gopalgarh and the lighthouse of Tolkeshwar. Scamper up the slope through the village to battlements of the fort.
As you emerge through the trees and fields, and negotiate the final gentle plateau, a breathtaking view of the ocean dashing on the rocks below awaits you. The sight of -- ramparts of the ruined fort snaking downwards, rugged cliffs reaching out to sea and the lighthouse with two ancient temples nearby -- completes a truly stunning sight. The gentle chugging of a passing fishing trawler only adds to the beauty of the scene. I fervently wish that the construction of the project nearby does not, in any way, disturb this pristine scenery.
When I usually visit Anjanvel, I drive from Chiplun and Guhaghar. But during our last visit, we left our car at Dabhol and took the ferry to Veldur and the bus to Anjanvel. It was the last week of November and the fishing season was in full swing. From our high vantage point next to the Tolkeshwar lighthouse we could see the fishing trawlers hard at work hauling their nets. I couldn't but help comparing the scene to a typical busy day at the business district in any of todays large cities, where city slickers similarly went about their business. Only here, there was no noise, no pushing and shoving, no sweat and grime -- just turquoise waters and a blue sky and every trawler minding its own business.
Chiplun and Guhaghar
On the highway to Goa, about 300 km from Bombay, is Chiplun. Once a quiet town, hardly bigger than a village, Chiplun has expanded into an important railway junction with the coming of the Konkan Railway.
About 40 km directly west of Chiplun is the coastal village of Guhaghar, attached to which is a picturesque stretch of sand. But it's not the beach that is the highlight of the place. On reaching Guhaghar, if you haven't seen Anjanvel already, turn due north and head for the villages of Anjanvel and Veldur at the mouth of the Vashishti river opposite Dabhol.
The road climbs up the hilly coastal slopes and offers panoramic views of the area around. As soon as you start seeing signs of construction, indicating the proximity of the famous Enron power project site, look for the track that will take you to Anjanvel. The last half kilometre or so is a very steep slope and beware of speeding buses careening down the track. You are now at the foot of the ruined fort of Gopalgarh. A short climb up the slope through the village brings you to the battlements of the fort.
As you emerge through the trees and fields, and negotiate the final gentle plateau, you catch sight of the breathtaking view of the sea crashing against the rocks. The ramparts of the ruined fort snake downwards right to sea. The cliff face to the south, dotted by a lighthouse, reaches right out to sea. At each end of this spur of land are two ancient temples. A truly stunning sight. The gentle chugging of a passing fishing trawler only adds to the sounds of silence. A real patch of pristine scenery, that I hope the Enron enterprise will not destroy.
To get to the lighthouse, you take the paved footpath, hardly visible, just above Anjanvel. A more scenic walk would be to reach the south-western part of the fort, where the fort walls meander down to the sea and then turn left and walk along the edge of the cliff till you reach the lighthouse. Like all other lighthouses in the area, this one occupies a commanding position, with terrific views both to the north and south.
The temples nearby are now renovated and only an old pillar stands to tell you how ancient it really was. The light keepers are friendly folk and you should not find any problem in climbing up the tower with their permission. On a weekend or holiday you are likely to encounter people from the project site. I found an old couple in the village of Guhaghar who offered me their spare room to bunk for the night and a lodge where I could fill up on – you guessed it – fish and rice. There are some other alternatives where you can put up for the night. But on my last visit I found that some of the folks working on the project had taken up most of the available lodgings at Guhaghar and Dabhol. So accommodation could be little hard to come by.
Guhaghar beach is definitely worth a visit. It is a wide expanse of white sand, set in a gentle curve of the coastline. To get to the beach -- on foot -- just take any footpath that goes west from the village's solitary road and a short walk through some coconut plantations should soon find you treading sand and your ears filling with the musical sound of breaking surf.
There is a small road that will allow you to take your vehicle on to the beach. Early evening on a full-moon night a walk on the beach is an exhilarating experience. There are no artificial lights to dazzle your vision or destroy the atmosphere. The sky, if it is cloudless, is ablaze with stars and even the Milky Way is discernible. The regular sweep of the beam of the lighthouse at Tolkeshwar from the north adds to the aura and mystery of the night.
Velneshwar, to the south of Guhaghar, is worth a visit if you have the time. If you are on a two-wheeler, this is the direction to head for if you want to cross over south to the next portion of the Maharashtra coastline. You may find the ferry services to take you further south either at Hedvi beyond or perhaps even at Velneshwar.
Jaigarh
To get to Jaigarh directly, don't turn towards Ganpatiphule, on the road from Hathkhamba, but continue north west. Explore the quaint and solitary temple just next to the sea with its palm-fringed cove. You will know you are near the temple when you see a cobbled footpath at the edge of the plateau. There is a perennial fresh water spring literally 10 feet from the sea and it is an ideal place to camp.
If your wheels are in good condition or you fancy a trek across a rocky plateau, try and make it to the lighthouse. It is unique. It is so old that there is no electric supply up to the source of the light in the tower. To put matters simply, the lighthouse is just like a huge kerosene stove with a pump to match.
Every evening the lighthouse 'keepers' pump the kerosene to pressurise it in its tank and then slowly release it to the mantle at the top behind the huge array of lenses for the light to shine. The lenses turn by a clockwork arrangement that has to be wound regularly throughout the night for it to turn around the mantle and cast its beam out to sea.
If you are keen on angling, take the road to the jetty and try your luck. There is an old fort near where the road to the jetty meanders down. Instead of going down to the jetty, continue on straight to the police station, beyond which is the fort. It is abandoned and you can have the precincts all to yourself. It overlooks the creek and the area beyond and presents some good photo opportunities.
An offbeat way to journey to Jaigarh would be to take the boat ride. As you drive down the highway, you will pass the town of Sangameshwar where the Shastri river begins to widen and becomes navigable. I am told a boat plies the length of the river from here to Jaigarh and back everyday. It is worth enquiring about this route especially if you are on a two-wheeler or going by bus.
The road from Hathkhamba towards Ganpatiphule, crosses over one of the longest tunnels on the Konkan Railway line. The road ends at this temple town quite spectacularly when it climbs down a steep hill with a magnificent view of the ocean. We once approached it just as dusk was beginning to set in. There was a slight nip in the air, and the sun had just disappeared below the horizon. The scattered clouds were lit up and coloured in glorious shades of orange and red. At one point we were so distracted by this celestial drama that I almost drove off the road.
Ganpatiphule
Ganpatiphule is truly a fabulous beach, but it has been colonised by hotels, both private and those belonging to the Maharashtra tourism department. People come here not only to enjoy the sea, but also to pray at the temple of Ganesha, which is located inside a hill. To pay obeisance to the god inside, pilgrims have to circle the entire hill, for which a paved footpath has been provided.
At any given time, Ganpatiphule is crowded. During the holiday season it is impossible to get accommodation in any of the hotels. We suggest you spend a short while sightseeing and then head for the neighbouring beach at Bandarphule.
It is just a couple of kilometres south from Ganpatiphule and any passerby can guide you onto the right road. Else, follow the signs for the Krishnali Resorts. The road bounces up and then down and literally hugs the hillside. At one point, right at the top, you can get good views of both beaches. Bandarphule beach is left alone by the crowds and if you have money to spare you can relax at the rather upmarket Krishnali Resorts, that has come up recently just behind the beach.
Ratnagiri
Ratnagiri is further south on the coast from Ganpatiphule. Not a particularly attractive place, it is a large town gaining in importance day by day because of the Konkan Railway. It is also the place to head for if you cannot find accommodation at Ganpatiphule and want a comfortable place to stay.
Ratnagiri has a beach resort at a place called Bhatya, just south of the Bhatya creek. The state government tourism department runs a tent colony here. To get there ask for the road to Pawas, and exit the town from the south. Cross the bridge across the creek and you are at Bhatya. You can see the tents pitched inside a grove of casuarina trees. To get a flattering view of the town, continue further south on the road and after it climbs the cliff bordering the southern end of the beach, get off the road to the right.
The wonderfully patterned sands of Bhatya beach below… the creek beyond… a solitary lighthouse on a whale-backed spur jutting out into the sea… and the portion of Ratnagiri town peeping out behind the green slopes is a view worth enjoying for some time. Small wonder that Maharashtra Tourism has not got around to promoting this little piece of heaven. Reservations for the tent colony at Bhatya beach are also available at any local Maharashtra Tourism office or at its Bombay office.
Purnagad and Pawas
South of Ratnagiri has been declared as an industrial zone for small and medium scale industries by the government. Therefore, the road that leads south of Bhatya beach up to Pawas and beyond to Purnagad is dotted with factories and employee colonies. There is not much scenery around and the road runs about a kilometre too much inland, missing out on much of the exciting sea views. At Pawas creek, Finolex Cables has put up a huge jetty for its factory.
Pawas is a place of special religious significance to Hindus and at any given time you are likely to encounter a horde of pilgrims at the couple of ancient temples that are located here. Pawas is not on the coast and to get to Purnagad, continue on south on the road for another 15 km or so.
There are a couple of rough unpaved roads that go west from this stretch to Purnagad and lead to the few villages that are located north of Purnagad. I once made my way to one of these villages and then walked along the coast towards the south to Purnagad creek. It was a six kilometre walk and I really enjoyed myself for the three leisurely hours that it took me to complete the journey.
The sea was a bit rough, as it was the monsoon season and my only companions was the constantly pounding surf to the right and the breeze trying desperately to blow my hat away behind me. As you near Purnagad, you encounter an ancient paved bridle path. The fort is located high above on the left and if you don't look out for it, you are likely to miss it.
On our last visit, however, we drove all the way to Purnagad. The road ends at the mouth of the creek just below the new bridge that is nearing completion. To get to the mini-fort from here, get to the end of the road that is marked by an old temple, now gaily painted with bright colours. You are likely to find the local boys playing cricket in the compound. From here go through the village which is situated on the slopes; footpaths link each huts. Ask the villagers the way to the fort as you proceed since there are simply too many paths going in all sorts of directions. It takes about 20 minutes of continuous walking through the village to get to the fort. Once there, you will find noon but cows grazing inside. A great place to camp.
Vijaydurg
The chief attraction of this sleepy village is a seemingly impregnable post-Shivaji period fort. Maritime history records that the fortress was the scene of many a bloody battle. It was attacked from sea by the British.
A dilapidated board at the entrance of the fort tells you its history. Some of the board is readable, whilst the rest needs guess work, since the paint has peeled off. Once upon a time the steamer from Bombay to Goa used to halt at the jetty near the entrance to the fort. Now the catamarans whizz past oblivious of the fort, the town and the beach.
Incidentally, one of the best views of the fort is from this jetty. The fort stretches out into the sea and a walk inside its precincts is worthwhile. When I was there last, the organisers of the McDowell Bombay-Goa Regatta had established a staging post inside the fort. There was quite a bit of revelry. Otherwise, no one bothers to come here. The locals inform us that Vijay Mallya, the booze baron and United Breweries boss, has bought over a hundred acres of land just north of here to build a resort in the future. That gives you an indication of Vijaydurg's potential.
Vijaydurg’s beach is hidden from view and not obvious to the casual visitor. Head towards the small bus stop, just before you get to the fort and where the road ends. It’s tucked away in a corner. Go beyond the bus stop and you are on the beach. It’s a stretch of about a kilometre with good views of the fort at the right and a small plateau with a hut to the left. It’s relatively clean and peaceful and the locals don't bother to come here.
North of Vijaydurg is a flat plateau that can be seen from the southern end of the fort. It looks very attractive with casurina plantations and some small isolated beaches. There is no ferry service from Vijaydurg north. One has to go back to the highway and then turn north towards Rajapur.
Just short of Rajapur, look for the turning to a place called Jaitapur. The road leads back to the coast and should take you to the area that you were looking at from Vijaydurg. It’s a stony plateau with a lonely lighthouse at its western edge, the road towards which is quite rough and unmarked. I once banged into a rock and bent the rim of my car’s front left wheel. Fortunately, the damage was slight, the tyre did not puncture and I could wait until I got back to Bombay to have it straightened out.
Devgarh
A short 25 km drive southwards, without going back to the highway, brings you to the larger town of Devgarh, famous for its Alphonso mangoes. It also has a post-Shivaji period fortress. Its ramparts now house a lighthouse.
Devgarh is a fishing village. It has a wonderful natural harbour because of the manner in which a finger of land juts out into the sea and then suddenly turns north forming a protective barrier. The beach is set in a gentle curve and on my first visit I missed it completely. The approach is not quite apparent. Go through the town and negotiate the bazaar that is located on a steep slope. A little after that the slope peters out and the road progresses, hugging the parked fishing trawlers, in various stages of repair and disrepair. Turn left and a short drive will bring you to the beach. There’s a brightly coloured temple located to the left. The road continues up a hill and ends at the southern entrance to the fort.
The view from here in the evenings is magnificent, especially on cloudy days when the sky rapidly changes hue just before sunset. The waves crashing on the rocks below provide a fitting serenade to this spectacle.
Just like the Taj Mahal, I am of the opinion that Devgarh beach must be visited on a full moon night. (The daily newspapers, available here on the same evening, give the phase of the moon). A peculiar phenomenon of phosphorence in the water makes the surf on the waves glows in the dark. When you kick the sand as the wave recedes, sparklers seem to emanate from the sand and water. Like stardust on the beach.
Southwards along the coast, beyond the creek at Mumbri, is a lovely walk all along the rocky slopes. It ends at the temple of Kunkeshwar, a lonely stretch of sand that simply sparkles in the sunlight. You can approach this temple by the road that branches off at Jamsande. The drive has a grand finale when you near the temple and the panorama of undulating fields and swaying palms against the backdrop of a deep blue ocean unfolds beyond your windscreen.
About half an hour’s drive north from Devgarh is the village of Padavnewadi. The road is not metalled after you leave the main road to Vijaydurg. Also, the beach does not have shade and the sun can be quite fierce in such circumstances. So time your visit either early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Padavnewadi, I feel its worth mentioning, because the local technique of fishing is much in vogue here and if you’re lucky you can time you visit to coincide with one such event.
Just south of Devgarh is the village of Mumbri. If you want to get to its beach, you have to cross the backwaters of the creek by a local rowboat. Actually, the boatman just punts across, by pushing against the riverbed with his bamboo stick. There is a rather large boat-building yard near the mouth of the creek. When we were there last, we got to witness the elaborate ritual of launching a newly built boat. There’s lots of puja, prayers and then begins the hard work of literally manually winching the boat into the water for the first time.
You can drive right up to the jetty and safely leave it there under some shady spot. After crossing the backwaters for the price of Rs 2 (!), just head west by means of any footpath that you see -- never mind if it means going through someone’s garden, he won’t mind. After a while you should come to a beach; one of the rare ones that has sand dunes and shady palms. The dunes lend a different perspective to the way the beach appears.
If you have the time, head north along the beach and take the bridle path up the hill and head for the temple of Kunkeshwar and another beach. Or try your luck and see if the locals are going to indulge in fishing. You may be able to capture some ‘ethnic’ faces and people on your camera.
Achra
It is possible to go south from Devgarh without getting back to the highway as there are no creeks to impede your journey. Halfway to Malvan on this inner road is the village of Achra. Just west of it is its twin by the name of Achra Bandar.
I harboured fears of a smelly jetty with the stench of dried fish when I read the word bandar since locally the word is associated with a jetty where fishermen dock after they return with their catch. Imagine our surprise when after driving west for about 6 km from Achra Bazaar, through some rather unique mangroves, we came upon one of the loveliest beaches on the coast. We could go right up to the beach. The sands stretched out for almost a couple of kilometres to the south.
To the north there was a grove of coconut trees all bent to one side. On the sands were catamarans silently waiting to be put out to sea again. Local urchins frolicked in the huge waves and shouted at each other in gay abandon. The strong breeze gently rustled the leaves above us completing a picture of serenity. Some bandar. If you have time to spend, you could easily spend half a day picnicking and sun-worshipping here.
Sindhudurg and Malvan
It’s possible to continue on to the town of Malvan without getting back to the highway. The road goes through the village of Achra and then enters Malvan from its north. The Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation has established a tented resort at Tarkarli, approximately 2 km south of Malvan. I stayed there once and even though it is located on the beach, the hygiene leaves much to be desired and therefore it is best left alone.
The beach is one long stretch from Malvan and the fort of Sindhudurg, which once was Shivaji’s naval headquarters, is visible from almost anywhere along the beach. A short boat ride from the jetty at Malvan takes you to the island on which the fort is situated. There’s a guide to take you around. Villagers live inside; there are three fresh-water wells and the village folk are completely cut off during the monsoons.
The most interesting activity at Malvan is the auction of the day’s catch when all the trawlers come home in the evening. Resembling the trading floor of any stock exchange, with various types of fish being sold to the highest bidder, it is an exercise in organised chaos that an outsider will be at an utter loss to understand. It is all over within an hour or so with the catch having exchanged hands, loaded on to trucks, and despatched to the markets in the larger cities inland. I managed to buy two large surmais, a local variety of salmon that my friend and I cooked for the evening meal on the beach over a log fire.
Vengurla
The last outpost before the Maharashtra coast merges with that of Goa is Vengurla and the beach at Ubhadanda. There are many lodges with basic amenities. Standing on the beach one night, I gazed at the blinking lighthouse located marooned on Vengurla rocks, about 10 kms out in the sea. The light-keeper at Nanwell told me he had once been posted there for a couple of years. I imagined how tough and lonely life must have been there, being completely cut off during the monsoon. He also narrated tales of some foreigners who had come there once to study marine life and birds. There must be a way to get there. But it eluded me. Nor did I have the time and wherewithal to locate it. Maybe some other time.
A bus out of Vengurla will take you to Sawantwadi and then on to Goa (Do check out our Goa Guide).
So friend, here ends our guide to Maharashtra's Konkan coast. I hope you enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed researching it. Cheers!
2006-09-28 20:31:52
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answer #6
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answered by BignTall 3
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