I've never ridden a bike with speeds, just a normal old fashioned coaster brake bike, and even that was decades ago. I tested the bike, with no advice from the seller about the speeds or what that even means.The bike rides good, the brakes worked, bought it at a great price. Now I read online all about speeds/gears and still not "getting" it. My main attempt at understanding the speeds and gears: as long as it will never "lock up" on me, or as long as whatever gear it's in on either side does not "matter" then I'll consider it a safe mode of transportation. Just want it in the NORMAL ring/shifter mode to ride at a slow/normal pace. Can't ride a cruiser bike - it's too huge and heavy, and can't pick it up should it fall. This one is a 24" bike, easy to lift and fits fine.
2006-09-27 08:38:32 · 6 answers · asked by Biker207 1 in Sports ➔ Cycling
First and Best thing to do. Take it to your local bike shop for a tune up or at the very least a saftey check. Though you may think the bike is fine there are things that a shop knows to look for to make sure nothing is wrong with it.
When your there ask for a quick explantion of how the gears work. It's a lot easier to explain this to someone when the bike is right in front of you. They can also show you what gears you don't want to be in at the same time because its bad for the chain.
2006-09-27 09:18:45 · answer #1 · answered by Dru 2 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Ok, this is how I work.
You have 3 gears in front. Let's say, 1 is the smallest one, the left one. 2 is the middle ring and 3 is the larger ring (the one in the right). This is like the main ratio. Any change from 1 to 2 or 3 to 2 will be inmediately noticed.
And you have 6 gears in the back. Here, the largest one is 1 (the one on the left), and the smallest is 6 (the one in the left).
For now, let's pretend we only have the 3 main ones in front.
I would use 1 in front when climbing (it's the easiest to climb with), 2 when riding on flats, and 3 when descending, since it's the fastest and hardest one.
Now, the rears at the rear make minor adjustments, so, for the nastiest climbs, 1F-1R would be the easiest, and for really going fast on downhills, 3F-6R would be the one to go. And, yes, a middle one would be 2F-3R.
Just some things, don't cross chains, that means, use the largest ring at front, and largest in rear (3F-1R), or smallest front, smallest rear (1F-6R).
Shift before you begin your climb, if not, you probably can hurt the deraileurs if you're smashing the pedals. What you can do if you're already in the climb and want to downshift is peddal a little bit faster so you get some momentum, and then slow your peddaling to shift, and then return to normal pedaling rythm.
Always shift when you're pedaling.
Understanding gears is what will make you go easier for the miles, and gain some speed.
2006-09-27 16:29:27 · answer #2 · answered by Roberto 7 · 2⤊ 0⤋
I think the best gear to start at is at maybe a 9 or 10 but only change gears in the middle of riding
2006-09-27 15:45:29 · answer #3 · answered by shybaby7770 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
For all things bicycle, check with Sheldon Brown first. Here is a link to his article on shifting gears: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears.html
Good luck,
Bill
2006-09-27 15:48:57 · answer #4 · answered by smu_texas 1 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Pedal around and around, when it gets hard downshift, when it gets easy upshift.
2006-09-27 15:46:49 · answer #5 · answered by doggiebike 5 · 4⤊ 0⤋
if it is a bike u have to change speed while in motion , but dont go to fast , change it around 25to 50miles , if u go over u might fall, trust me i am a proffesional bike rider i know wat i am talking about
2006-09-27 15:42:45 · answer #6 · answered by mike jones 1 · 0⤊ 4⤋