Starting from the center is only asking for trouble. If you do you will be left with awkward cut at the doors if you're unlucky. My advise is to start with a full tile at the centre of the door, in experience this results in the best looking finish. Then place 3 or 4 more tiles out (at a right angle to the door) using spacers. Level this row to the general area of the floor; then (if happy with the way the tiles are looking) place all the tiles out in position, doing all the cuts. After all the tiles are down mix up your cement and bed tiles in - working quickly as the cement/adhesive dries very quickly.
If surface you are tiling on is not concrete you will have to use flexible tile adhesive. If floor boards (and floor boards are in bad condition) you may have to plain any uneven areas until flat - putting sheets of plyboard down before tiling can also increase the look of the finished job.
Wouldn't advise using a program (if there is any) as it may organise it brilliantly on a computer screen, but in reality rooms are never right angles and square edges - it would only court problems. If still unsure try looking at a diy book
Hope this is of help to you. Good luck.
2006-09-20 08:06:07
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answer #1
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answered by Mr Ryan 2
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The only thing I can add to the comprehensive answer from Stephen W is - Make sure you purchase the correct adhesive, If you are laying ceramic tiles over a wooden floor then you will require a "flexible adhesive" readily available. If you don"t use it the tiles will lift. Also you will need an additive for the cement based grout, again to give it the flexibility. If you use this the as the sub floor moves the tiles will move with it without cracking.
2006-09-20 15:48:02
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answer #2
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answered by researcher 3
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Measure from the center out, so that you end up with the same sized tile on the ends of the room. Other than that, your question is a little vague. Go to Home Depot, they have those little work shops and believe it or not you can learn a lot from them. I've been installing floors professionally for 15 years. It's expensive, but I say if you can afford it pay for it, if you are handy, I advocate that you save yourself money and take pride in learning something new and doing it yourself, you will never be dissatisfied. The only stupid questions are the ones you don't ask. Take your time, take the class. Home Depot, Lowe's, they should all be able to help, and if not there are plenty of books on the subject. And unfortunately there is to much subject to cover here. Good luck with your floors.
2006-09-20 14:46:25
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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After installing thousands of sq. ft. of tile,,, I'll offer this.
Forget ONline plotting, or graphing.
Find a point in each room, that will allow a full course of tiles each way until cuts have to be made. If the run of tile extends into any adjacent rooms, use the longest distance in your calculations for squaring and cutting,,,unless it means that in other rooms the FLOW will be greatly hidden, or looks so abstract publically.
Square a line at the starting point, then square one perpendicular to that,,,assuming, and assuring that at wall corners, they are square. You can snap a chalk line, use a marker, or even a long straight edge, as a guide intitially.
You might even lay out enough tiles both ways to determine cuts at the perimeters.
Add 1/4 inch per tile in the room size,,,IE: every 48 inches of tile,,,you'll add one inch in the total "FIT" Allow that at all perimiters you'll end up with anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 inch open, then will be covered by molding.
Once you've determined tile size, then determine all the cut sizes,,,before cutting. Include in that, any angle cuts, column cuts, inside/outside corner cuts,,,and do those. It's quite possible you'll get two cuts from one piece of tile.
Add no less than a full box or two, for cuts, waste,,,IE: Breakage, get the best poly added quickset mortar you can, use a trowl/knife with 1/4 inch teeth, work in an area no larger than 9 or 12 sq. ft at a time, and use spacers between each tile and at corners of each.
Rent a decent wet/tile saw, and get a grinder with a steel cut wheel designed for the purpose. Prepare for the mess.
If molding currently exists,,,remove it.
Do not Pound down each piece of tile, but set firmly into the mortar. Do not over mortar, or under mortar in a short cut method. As you lay the first 9 or 12 sq ft, level all the tiles, either with a board, or actual level, to allow smooth transitions.
Once set, DO NOT walk over it, to an area you may have missed. Let the cure last at least 48 hours.
Clean up any mortar on the tiles immediately, then as it drys any excess that fills any grout lines.
Once dry, and clean, mix and apply grout, using the small area of work theory, using the appropriate methods of rubber faced trowles/ applicators, wiping with the appropriate sponges. As the grout sets, continue wiping with sponging that is damp enough to get heavy residue but not degrade the grout. Sanded grout will work well in 1/4 spacing. Dust from the grout will be evident, even when you think you've wiped it enough, initially. It's easy to go over and wipe up, once the grout has cured. I allow 48 hours for that also, before putting any furniture in place.
Rev. Steven
2006-09-20 15:05:43
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answer #4
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answered by DIY Doc 7
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I don't know of a program, but whenever I have done anything similar, whether it be in the house, or in the garden, I have always found it works very well to use graph paper to plan your lay-out in advance: you will find this useful also when moving house and trying to work out which furniture will go where, all you have to do then is cut to the reduced sizes pieces of paper to represent the items of furniture, then just move them around on the graph paper that you've marked out to represent your room: it's quite fun too.
2006-09-20 15:44:09
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answer #5
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answered by SALMAGUNDI PARTAGER 2
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you dont need a program. Just measure your room, then center it and start from the middle working your way out. Build you a square grid, or go buy one from the depot store to keep it in line. Or just google How to lay tile and read up on it. It is easy!
2006-09-20 14:41:42
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answer #6
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answered by ? 4
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You really do not need to use any programme to work out the tiling system of your flooring. Using centimetre graph paper and descaling your measurements will give you a rough guide of how to produce a even pattern for your flooring.
2006-09-20 14:45:55
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answer #7
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answered by lonely as a cloud 6
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Create a new image in Photoshop, in proportion to your room, like if the room is 10m by 10m, then create the image 10cm by 10cm.
Then create other images the size of the tiles (in proportion).
Copy and paste into the new image and move them around.
Easy.
2006-09-20 14:48:52
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answer #8
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answered by savs 6
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You might want to take a look at these videos. They're not free but they aren't expensive either. They could save you a lot of money by teaching you the right way to lay tiles.
http://www.this-info.com/installmarble
http://www.this-info.com/tilemadeasy
2006-09-20 15:22:04
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answer #9
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answered by magicblur 2
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Microsoft Visio.
Or just get some graph paper and a pencil.
2006-09-20 14:41:09
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answer #10
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answered by anonymous_dave 4
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