Any tips for training a new tiny puppy? 10 Weeks?

Question

I'm trying to be as proactive as possible, as my new puppy is to arrive next Friday (9/22), she will be10 weeks old when she arrives, and is a mix betweena miniature schnauzer and a toy poodle, she will be very tiny, only 5-6 lbs when fully grown. So any potty training, anti-bark, or anti-chew tips would be greatly appreciated!

Answer 1

This is for potty training


The most successful potty training methods consist of four key elements:

1. Confinement
2. Training
3. Timing
4. Praise

This article will discuss them all and also answer common housebreaking questions and address some special cases.

Confinement

Puppies (or dogs who don't yet understand where it is appropriate to eliminate) need to be confined in order to facilitate the easiest potty training. The BEST and most effective place to confine is in a crate or cage (more about crates in an upcoming article). At this point (new introduction to potty training) don't leave anything on the bottom of the crate (blanket, newspaper, etc.). Puppy will make a project out of destroying it. Most dogs do NOT want to eliminate where they live, therefore the crate needs to be just large enough for puppy to turn around and lay down. Anything larger will encourage a puppy to eliminate at one end and sleep in the other. For those puppies who will grow quite a bit larger, use a crate that is sized for an adult and partition it to a smaller size using a homemade insert or a crate insert made by the crate company to fit your crate.

Training and Praise

When I teach a new dog (or puppy) where to eliminate, I ALWAYS use a leash. Leashes keep your dog close to you, where you can supervise and control everything that happens. Puppies, especially, are easily distracted. A blowing leaf, new flower, stick, another animal - all can take a puppy's mind off the matter at hand. If you are near the puppy (or dog) with the leash in hand, a gentle tug will redirect away from the curiosity. Leashes are also good to help teach an AREA to eliminate (behind the garage, etc.). With a leash, you just take the dog there every time.

I also teach words for elimination. This way, when the puppy understands what the words mean, he will understand WHAT I want as well as WHEN I want it to happen. My words are "go potty" for urination and "go poop" for defecation. Your choice can be ANY word or phrase you want to use consistently (such as, "hurry up", "do your business", "get busy", "let's go", "tinkles", etc.). Remember when you choose your word or phrase that you will be repeating it A LOT!

As I take my dog outside on a leash, I start to teach him the word "OUTSIDE". "Let's go OUTSIDE!". "Do you have to go "OUTSIDE"? "OUTSIDE! OUTSIDE!" In time, the dog will learn that the word OUTSIDE is associated with elimination. Eventually you will be able to ask the dog "do you have to go OUTSIDE?" and get a response like barking, running to the door or tail wagging.

Using the Leash & Words to Teach

A slip-type leash is quick and easy to slip on the puppy to take him outside. If the puppy isn't used to the leash yet, slip the leash on and carry the puppy from his crate to outside, saying the entire time "Do you want to go outside? Let's go outside! Outside! Outside! Yay! Outside!". Your emphasis should be on the word "OUTSIDE". Once outside, set puppy down and change your mantra to your word/phrase "Go Potty! Go Potty! Let's Go Potty!". Let puppy sniff and move around a little, but keep him in a general area. Each time he gets distracted (leaf, squirrel, etc.) give the leash a tug and repeat "Go Potty!". The command is generally not said in a firm or angry way and not in a soft or pleading way either - it is usually said in an encouraging tone. When elimination occurs, use a happy tone and repeat "GOOD Go Potty! Yay! Go Potty!". I prefer to use WORDS ONLY to reinforce elimination, because petting or treats can interrupt the act. Verbal praise needs to happen DURING the act, not after! Usually dogs will urinate first, then defecate. You need to become familiar with your dog's habits so you can wait for defecation and use a command for it (i.e.; "more potty", "go poop", etc.).

Did you know??

Contrary to popular belief, winter is usually the EASIEST time to potty train. Nobody wants to spend much time outside, especially puppy, and distractions are at a minimum.

How To House Train A Dog Effectively

House training is one of the most important parts of training any dog to be a valued part of the family. As with many other aspects of dog training, the best way to house train a dog is to use the dog’s own nature.

The great thing about dogs, and the thing that can make house training much easier, is that dogs are instinctively very clean animals. Dogs would rather not soil the areas where they sleep and eat. In addition, dogs are very good at developing habits regarding where they like to urinate and defecate.

For example, dogs that are used to eliminating on concrete or gravel will prefer to eliminate there rather than on grass or dirt. It is possible to use these natural canine habits when house training a dog.

Setting up the training area

The first step in house training a dog is to set up the training area. A small, confined space such as a bathroom, or part of a kitchen or garage, works best as a training area. This method of training differs from crate training. Crate training is great for puppies and small dogs, but many larger dogs find a crate too confining.

It is important for the owner to spend as much time in the training area with his or her dog as possible. It is important for the owner to play with the dog in the training area, and to let the dog eat and sleep in that area. The dog should be provided with a special bed in the training area, anything from a store bought bed to a large towel to a large box. At first, the dog may eliminate in this area, but once the dog has recognized it as his or her own space, he or she will be reluctant to soil it.

After the dog has gotten used to sleeping in the bed, the owner can move it around the house, relocating it from room to room. When the dog is alone, the dog should be confined to the training area.

Setting up the toilet area

The second part of house training is to set up the toilet area for the dog. It is important for the dog to have access to this place every time he or she needs to eliminate. It is also important for the owner to accompany the dog each time until he or she gets into the habit of eliminating in the toilet area. This will ensure that the dog uses only the established toilet area.

Once the dog has established a toilet area and is using it on a regular basis, it is very important to not confine the dog without access to the toilet area for long periods of time. That is because if the dog is unable to hold it, he or she may be forced to eliminate in the training area. This habit can make house training much more difficult.

Continuing the house training process

After the dog is consistently eliminating in the toilet area and not soiling the training area, it is time to extend that training area to the rest of the home. This process should be done slowly, starting with one room and slowly expanding to the rest of the house. The area should only be extended once you are sure of the dog’s ability to control its bladder and bowels.

When you first expand the training area to a single room, let the dog eat, play and sleep in that room, but only when supervised. When it is not possible to supervise the dog, place it back in the original training area. Then, after the dog has accepted the room as an extension of the original training area, the area can be extended.

Speeding up the process

If this process is too lengthy for your needs, it can be speeded up, but it is important to proceed cautiously. It is easier to take your time up front than to retrain a problem dog later. One way to successfully speed up house training is to praise and reward the dog each and every time it uses the established toilet area. It is also important not to punish the dog for mistakes. Punishment will only confuse the dog and slow down the house training process.

Answer 2

Toy breed dogs are incredibly hard to housebreak. Infact some are impossible. I have a 2 yr old Male Pomeranian (and 3 other large dogs). The pom took over 6 mths to housebreak while My Labrador and Two German Shepherds were all housebroken within 2 weeks. Since your dog will be so small I'd recommend paper training or litter box training your pup. Small dogs also dont enjoy going outside in bad wether i.e. snow/rain. I think that might be your best bet on the housebreaking! Good luck and way to be proactive. A well informed pet owner is a good one.

Answer 3

I would consider crate training, it prevents her from getting hurt or into trouble. It also helps with potty training. Potty training does not take long my 7 week old Lab had it down in less than a week. But it takes your time and patience. A lot of dog training is is repetition and praise. Make sure you always take her out after she sleeps eats or plays. and around every half hour. Their bladders are still growing so they can not hold it long. When she goes outside lavish her with praise, and for a mistake a stern "no" works followed by taking her outside. If you are going ti use potty pads to protect your floors buy the grass scented ones so you do not confuse her with different odors. For chewing make sure she has plenty of toys and things for her to chew on. You can also buy a spray that will leave a bad taste in her mouth. I used Bitter Apple it does not hurt them it just teaches them to associate certain objects as bad tasting.

Answer 4

Train her right from the begginning but don't expect any results until after 15 weeks. At 15 weeks puppies finally gain SOME control over their bowels. Get the puppy on a schedule, take her out and feed her at the same times so you can predict when an accident will occur. Your puppy will get the idea after a while.

Answer 5

Where ever the first place your puppy wee's, put paper down after that, and tell her to wee on the paper, hopefully she will wee on the paper, not straight away, but she will. Then move the paper closer and closer towards your back door, so eventually your paper will be by your back door, once she is weeing on that, move the paper to just outside your back door and after that, she will hopefully start letting you know she wants a wee by standing at the back door.

Theirs a lot of back doors in their, but i think you get the gist of what I'm saying, anyway, this worked for me with three dogs, a Toy Poodle, a Standard Poodle and a Japanese Akita.

All the best, its easier than training a child to go to the toilet. lol

Answer 6

recently went through the same thing almost the same breed mines full tiny toy poodle she easy spooked when she goes potty by traffic passing , at first she loved going behind my couch which is pushed against wall she used it as potty so watch that take with in 3min after she eats their little bladders won't hold much for long if she has a accident show it to her let her smell but don't stick her nose in it .say no in a tone that you don't normally use and when she does good praise her in a good tone.

Answer 7

Training Your Pup
http://www.petskare.com/category/Training-Your-Pup.html

Answer 8

Theres lots of good advice on here already but I suggest getting the book:
Little Dogs:Training your pint sized companion
by: deborah wood
It has lots of great tips on dealing with the little guys and is funny as heck!