That really depends on what you want and where you live. Some areas have issues with ground water seeping into basements, if so short carpets and linoleum work well. If ground water is not an issue then you can really put down anything you want except natural woods the little bits of moisture that comes in regardless of what you do will cause problems.
2006-09-11 08:27:14
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answer #1
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answered by BeenThere 3
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Well, typically when I think of a basement floor, I think of a cold concrete, and it is definitely a turn off. Read this for suggestions:
Foot-Friendly Floor
A reliably-dry space is the essential starting point for any basement finishing project. Don't even think about starting without that. But even given this much, a typical bare basement floor is everything most of us hate underfoot: it's cold, hard and ugly. That's why so many homeowners choose carpeting for finished basements. Just roll it out and you're done. But used alone, or even with an underpad, carpet is a risky proposition below grade. And the source of this risk is invisible moisture.
Even apparently-dry basements can develop moisture problems during humid weather, when condensation occurs on cool floor surfaces. That's why you need to consider some floor insulation strategy upfront. Carpet alone isn't good enough because warm, moist air percolates through the fibres and condenses at the bottom of the pile. And too often this process is enough to make it smell like you're living with a wet dog. Basements don't have a musty reputation for nothing.
There are two approaches I favour for basement floor prep. The one that offers maximum insulating value starts with a layer of 1 1/2 or 2-inch thick extruded polystyrene foam placed against the concrete, with a layer of 5/8-inch plywood on top. The whole thing is secured with Tapcon screws torqued directly into pre-drilled holes in the concrete floor. You get a warm, dry, all-wood subfloor that's ready to take almost any kind of finished flooring safely, including carpet.
Your home may feature every basement waterproofing strategy known to mankind, but there's still no guarantee that, say, a week of torrential downpours won't overwhelm your bulwarks. And if this possibility concerns you, consider a second type of basement floor strategy. It uses a new type of product made of interlocking tiles of water-resistant waferboard, bonded to a dimpled plastic layer. This plastic separates the wood from the concrete floor, while preserving small drainage channels between the two. You certainly don't ever want water to trickle into the space under the floor, but if it does there's no disaster. There's still a clear path to the floor drain. Sublfor is one brand that I've tested and like. Even when submerged underwater for three days, the waferboard substrate remained solid, with minimal swelling.
Do you like the look of a wood floor in the basement? That's okay, too, just consider laminate flooring instead of solid wood. Laminates are much more moisture-resistant than the real thing, especially if you choose edge-glued types. In fact, major laminate manufacturers all warrant their product for basement installation, even directly on concrete covered with a thin underlay. Laminates will certainly do fine on top of either of the insulated floor strategies here.
There's one more thing you need to understand about basement moisture control. Humid, summertime air is a potent source of moisture, triggering the formation of mould and mildew even if all obvious moisture channels have been plugged. That's why it's important to keep basement windows shut during hot weather. A dehumidifier is the best way to keep basement moisture levels down between 65% to 75% R. H. at a time of the year when open windows might let relative humidity skyrocket to nearly 100% in any cool basement.
Hope that helps!
2006-09-11 15:51:05
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answer #2
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answered by Amy J 4
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