what is the best way to bleed?

Question

the clutch system on late 80s early 90s volkswagen carevelle. just cant get it to work right

i know how to do it it just does not want to do and yes im close to slitting my wrists with the frustration

further to above what i really need to know should resovoir cap be left on or off.

have done same on motor cycle and its best to leave cap on as this helps create the vacuum.

Answer 1

You will bleed if you slit your wrists.

Usual problem is aeration from pumping too hard, try sucking the fluid through, you can get a attatchment to keep the master cyl topped up from Halfords etc or get a mate to kep dribbling flud in, if the master cyl reservoir runs dry you have to start again, but try sucking, a bike pump with the leather of rubber washer reversed makes a good suction pump and suck gently and dont pump the pedal.

If you must pump the pedal it is a 2 man job, loosen the slave cyl bleed nipple possibly only 1 or 2 flats, Shout "Down" your mate pushes the pedal down to the floor and keeps it there , he shouts "Down" you tighten the nipple and shout "Back" your mate slowly releases the pedal and when it is right up shouts "Back" you check the reservoir then if ok lrepeat the cycle loosen the slave cyl nipple etc after a bit if the fluid comes through like fluid not just air bubbles shout "any good " and he tries it shouting "No" you shout "start it up and try it," standing well clear because it will definately be in gear , and if ithe clutch works and it goes into gear a swift prayer to Mecca and its off down the dog and duck for a gallon and a half of Heineken.
Even if the problem persists the Pub/gallon and a half of Heineken method has merit in that it gives the air in the fluid the chance to work its way up through the fluid to the master cyl and to atmosphere.

Answer 2

have somone sat in the car and get them to pump the pedal 4 or 5 times.
the pedal then needs to be held about the halfway down point, then crack the bleeder and push pedal to the floor.
should only need to do this a couple of times.
if you have had the system in bits you may need to force some fluid through, i do this using a bike pump with the end cut off the adaptor, suck fluid into the pump and then connect to open bleeder and push the fluid through the system (back bleeding).

Answer 3

It should not make any difference if the cap is on or off but when you bleed it push the slave cylinder rod right back into its self making sure that all the air comes out of the slave cylinder if that dont work try bleeding the master cylinder first and then the slave cylinder

Answer 4

the way we do it at Mazda, have a friend pump clutch pedal up and hold to floor, then you have to open bleeder on either clutch master cyl, or slave and if you have bleeders on both bleed the master then the slave next but anway pump pedal and hold then open bleeder fast and then shut back up and do that a few times until only fliud comes out with no bubbles/air that should get you going in right direction

Answer 5

reservoir cap will make no difference, there is actually a hole in it to allow the fluid level to drop as the clutch wears.

If you are not getting fluid expelled properly at the clutch slave cylinder then I suspect the master cylinder is the problem.

Answer 6

If you are by yourself. Attach a hose to bleeder screw on the clutch slave. Submerge the hose in brake fluid. Open screw and push clutch being careful not to pump dry the resivor. 3 pumps should do it.

Answer 7

God you frightened me then, I thought someone was about to slit their wrists, sorry I don't know anything about cars, I am just glad it is only Volkswagen with problems,!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Answer 8

Invest in a brake vacuum pump system. Make sure not use the one that's used for penile enlargement.

Answer 9

buy a ezi bleed there only abt £12 and work really well

Answer 10

you need two of you .one to top up brake fluid and the other one to pump the brake to get rid of the air