How do you make lace?

Answer 1

to make lace there are 5 steps to follow :

Preparing the pattern
Winding bobbins
Starting the lace
Making the lace
Finishing the lace

Preparing the Pattern
Lace is worked on a pattern, which shows where the pins should go. You can find some simple patterns on this website. There are books and lace magazines with patterns, or, of course, you could always design your own! If you want to start with a very simple pattern, try this one.
You need to prick out this pattern. This means making small holes in the pattern wherever the pins will go. You would think that you could do this while making the lace, but in fact it's quite hard to see where the pin should go when covered with threads. It's much easier and more accurate to prick the holes first. Then when making the lace, you can 'feel' for the hole with the pin. I print out my patterns from the computer, then prick them directly, but some people prick through the pattern onto pricking card below. You can buy a special pricker, or just use a needle or pin. Pin the pattern onto something firm that doesn't mind pinds being stuck into it (you could use your pillow), and prick every pinhole. If you turn the paper over, you can spot any holes that you've missed. When done, fasten the pattern to your pillow with a pin at each corner (or more, if necessary). Push these pins in up to their heads so they don't get in the way.

Winding the Bobbins




Bobbins are wound in pairs. Take one end of your thread and wind it round the recessed part of the first bobbin, at the top. You will have to decide how much thread you will need. For a small pattern, the length from your out-stretched hand to your nose might be sufficient. After measuring it, don't cut it off. Wind it on the bobbin while it's still on the reel. When all this has been wound onto the bobbin, make a loop, twist it and slip it over the groove right at the top of the bobbin to make a simple slip knot.
Now measure the same amount of thread again, but this time cut it off. Wind the other end of the thread onto the other bobbin and fasten it in the same way. You should have one piece of thread with a bobbin at both ends. Stick a pin into the pillow at the start of the pattern, and carefully hang the pair of bobbins from it, letting them lie hanging down on the pillow. There should be 2-3 inches (5 cms) of threads below the pin to the bobbins. Do the same with all the rest of the bobbins. Don't drop the cushion at this point

Starting the lace
It's worth thinking where you start the lace. Torchon lace is on a diagonal grid. If the pattern has a line of holes running diagonally across, then you can start from that. Every hole has a pin with a pair of bobbins on. There is an extra pair of bobbins for the footside if twisted (possibly more for a cloth footside). You can either hang that from the edge pin, or put in a pin in the right place to hold it. There is also one extra pair, who will work their way down the diagonal line of bobbins. This can be hung on the pin at the top point of the diagonal.

Another, neater, way to start is to draw a line across the pattern before the start. You will need to hang two pairs of bobbins on each pin (making 4 bobbins). There will also be an extra pair at the footside, as before. Work one pair across all the bobbins, either in cloth stitch or cloth stitch and twist. You may need to work it back again to get back to the right place. Now work Torchon ground up to where the pattern starts. This means that you don't have to start the lace in the middle of a diamond or a spider.
It's a good idea to start working the bobbins as soon as you have hung them. Once you have worked a lace stitch with the threads, then if you jolt or even upset the pillow, you can still sort them out to their original places (with a good light and a lot of paitience - I've done it!) However, if they are still hanging on their original pins and you jolt the pillow by mistake, some come off their pins and you have a terrible mess

Making the lace
Lace is made up of lots of stitches. Each stitch is either cloth stitch or half stitch, which both need four bobbins, or a twist, which justs needs two. So, before starting the stitch, work out which bobbins you are using. To make the stitch, you lift one bobbin over another as shown on the stitches webpage. You may ned to shuffle the other bobbins along to make room. The threads follow the bobbins. The stitch is there, but it isn't tightened up, so it looks quite a mess. Don't worry about this.
Every now and then, you need to put in a pin. Work out which bobbins the pin needs to go between. Carefully move the pin up between the threads, making sure you don't loose your place. When you get to the pattern, find the right hole (which you have already pricked) and push the pin in far enough to stay there firmly (but not right up to its head). It's a good idea to lean the pin away from the bobbins slightly, as they tend to pull the threads down, and, if you're unlucky, pull the pin out. At the edge, lean the pins out slightly, for the same reason. However, don't lean the pins too much. You're going to have a lot of pins close together, so they need to be put in neatly.

You should always tighten up the threads at a pin. There are several ways to do this. Give each bobbin involved a gentle tug downwards, until the slack of the thread has disappeared. Sometimes stroking the bobbins downwards, or tapping them on the top, is enough. But sometimes it's quite hard to tighten the stitch sufficiently. Then you need to take one pair of bobbins in one hand, and one in the other, and gently pull them apart from each other. Obviously tugging too hard pulls the pins out, which leads to chaos, so be careful! If you don't tighten the stitches enough, then you will see little loops in the final lace. Don't worry too much, no-one else will notice (except possibly another lacemaker!)

Leave the pins in until you have worked enough lace to make the earlier part safe, even from your gentle tugs. This might be about an inch of lace. From this point, you can take pins out from the back of the lace to use in the front. However, if you are making something like a mat, or the edge of a hankerchier, then the end will have to be joined to the beginning. This is a lot easier if you leave the beginning pins in, so the threads will be in the right place for the join. But push the pins right in, up to their heads, or they will get in the way of working the rest of the lace. Making something like this will mean working one side up to a corner, then turning the pillow to work the next side, and so on.

Once you have worked some lace, you will find that the bobbins have used up their spare thread, and are too close to the lace. You unwind a bit more thread by holding the bobbin with the thread taut, and twisting the bobbin so some more thread comes out (but not too much!) If you are careful then the loop fastening the thread won't come undone.

You will find that lace patterns have designs in them, some of which which I describe in this website. Before starting one design, such as a spider, sort out which bobbins will be needed, and tidy away the other bobbins to the left and right. You will need to do one design before starting on another below it. Sometimes you may need to do half a design, then change to another one before going back to the first. It all depends where the threads come from and go to.

If you didn't allow enough thread on a bobbin, and run completely out of thread, you can tie another piece of thread on, wind this onto the bobbin, and continue. The knot will show in the finished lace, of course, but most people won't notice it.

If you make a mistake, you have a choice. You can either undo all the stitches after the mistake (taking the pins out as you go), correct the mistake, and rework the lace or you can ignore the mistake, and try to get the bobbins back in the right place. You can sometimes see mistakes on antique lace!

Finishing the lace
You need to work the lace to a logical finish point. One way is to reverse the technique you did at the start. You can do some Torchon ground to get to a straight line, then a line or more of cloth stitch or cloth stitch and twist.
The simplest way to finish lace is just to cut off the bobbins, unpin the lace, and there you are! After all, when you buy lace, it has a cut edge. However, a little bit might get unravelled, and you spent time working that bit, so you might want a better way. You can cut off the bobbins leaving long threads. Then you can tie knots between threads, or pairs of threads, or larger groups of threads. If you have done a complete line of stitches to finish off, as described above, this will help, as you can tie round the pins. A standard reef knot will make the ends of the threads lie parallel to the end of the lace, which makes them fairly invisible. Tying groups of threads in overhand knots make the ends more of a feature, like a fringe. If you are making the edge of something, like a hankerchief, the end will be attached to the start. So you tie the end threads through and round the start threads. You may need to unwind one of the bobbins and use a needle with the thread so you can get it through the loop of the starting threads.


http://www.gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/lace/make.htm

Answer 2

***Bobbin lace is so beautiful!

Bobbin lace (or pillow lace) takes its name from the way it is made: on a firm pillow to which a pricked-out pattern is tacked and each twist of the bobbins is held in place by a pin. For all its intricate and elegant appearance, there are only two different movements of bobbins in the formation of the lace: the twist and the cross.

http://lace.lacefairy.com/BeginGuide.html

I can't wait to try this! I only worry about the tiny hands of my grandkids, getting into things they shouldn't . You know no matter how hard you try to protect something, one of them always manages to find it..

***There is also tatting: This reminds me more of the battenburg lace..

http://www.geocities.com/heartland/5082/TatOnline/tatting_instruction.htm
http://www.craftown.com/instruction/tatting.htm
http://www.bellaonline.com/subjects/3888.asp

***I have problems with both the metal and plastic shuttles. My fingers just don't move right. I had heard you can actually do needle tatting..

http://www.bellaonline.com/subjects/3889.asp
http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art18275.asp

Good luck!

Answer 3

Sab maya hain

Answer 4

I dont know but tumhe pata ho to jarur batana

Answer 5

very carefully from the store.

Answer 6

Very carefully, seriously, for a more complete answer, please checkout this website ---> http://www.2020site.org/lace/

Answer 7

crochet. unless it's on a cake, then you use icing.