how much off of sticker is a good deal for me and the dealer?

Answer 1

NEVER bargain down from the "sticker" price! That's a sucker's game and you'll pay too much every time!

First off, decide exactly what car you want. Make, model, color and options. It's quite OK to shop the dealerships gathering information and taking test drives but be clear from the start that you are only shopping today, NOT buying.

Now, do some homework. Find out what the car costs the dealer. You can get some of that information right from the manufacturer's website; most of them post dealer invoice prices but do NOT be suckered by that as they do not represent the TRUE dealer cost!

You can get more information at Edmunds that includes most factory to dealer incentives. This will get you much closer to the real dealer cost. Probably the best option for the truly informed buyer is Consumer Reports' New Car Price Service. It will cost you $12.00 but is worth EVERY PENNY -- you'll probably save 100 times that!

For your $12.00 you get a report either on-line, via fax or in the mail (your choice) that lists all of the details of the car. All options and their prices and costs are listed. All options packages and how to decide which options are worth the money and which ones aren't, as well as options that are tied to one another such as requiring you to buy a sunroof to get cruise control such as Toyota once did.

It also lists all factory to dealer incentives, both national ones and regional ones that will affect your bottom line price. And if you live near a regional border and there's a better deal in the neighboring region, that will be there too.

Crunch the numbers and you'll come up with a number very close the REAL dealer's cost on the car. NOW it's time to go buying.

What kind of a deal you might be able to get will depend largely on how well the model is selling. If you're set on a Toyota RAV4 or Prius -- two very hot sellers -- accept the fact that you're going to pay sticker price or maybe even more.

For more mundane vehicles, something between $300.00 - $500.00 is fair, both for you and the dealer. That's what the experts say, anyway. At least the PC ones. Personally, I like to start about 10% BELOW dealer cost and come up in increments of $50.00 to $100.00 as the negotiating process proceeds. This tactic can reveal hidden factory incentives and also works if you are buying very close to the end of the quarter, late March, June, September or December.

When you lowball a dealer like that, expect some histrionics. If you have any acting in your blood, respond in kind! It actually can be FUN playing their game. But before you go down that road, have your "walk price" in mind. That's a number that you will NOT exceed under any circumstances. If they don't meet that price, just get up and walk.

The more time they have invested in trying to sell to you, the more it will hurt to see you get up and walk out. For this reason, it's a good idea to not have anything that you need to do prior to the dealership's closing time. Being pressed for time puts you at a significant disadvantage; don't let that happen!

This brings me to my all-time favorite buyer's weapon, the finance switchout. It helps to have good credit but will work for most buyers. Get a loan quote from your bank or credit union. Know exactly what the interest rate and payments will be on your "walk price."

Now grind for the best possible price on the car, but let the dealer think you'll finance through them. Let it escape that you need to keep your payments below a certain level -- about 20% to 30% higher than what your bank or CU will charge. If you do this carefully, the dealer will give you your lowball price but will make it all up on the finance contract. Or so they think! Just check the finance contract carefully and make sure that there is no pre-payment penalty. Most contracts through the manufacturer's financial arms (GMAC, Ford Credit, etc.) don't have them; just make sure. You might also get additional incentives for using the manufacturer's financing. This will sweeten the deal significantly for YOU!

Now comes the fun part. Go straight back to your bank and refinance the deal with them. They'll pay off the note with the dealer and you'll get both YOUR price AND the best possible financing terms. At the most, this will cost you one month's interest on the dealer's finance contract -- a pittance compared to what you just saved.

I just did this back in April when I bought my new Ford Fusion. I paid about $600 under dealer cost, PLUS another $500.00 factory-to-dealer incentive, PLUS $1,000.00 for financing with Ford Credit. The one month with Ford Credit (at 10%, nearly double what my credit union was offering at the time) cost me an extra $35.00. Not bad for over $6,100 below sticker!

You CAN win at the car-buying game. You just need to know all the rules, and how to use them to your advangate!

Good luck!

Answer 2

Get the community newspaper and seem on the classified ads the sellers have run relatively for the time of the trip. those are new vehicles run at a loss. there may well be some rebates or incentives that for which you will no longer qualify, so confirm to study the disclosures interior the classified ads. additionally, if the advert shows a SUV which you're desiring yet does not have the coolest points you're in seek of, then maximum promises you the comparable mark downs on an identical variety. basically because of the fact the others have stated, this is extra effective to finance the automobile with the broking because of the fact your opportunities advance very much with getting the extra effective deal. additionally, ask on the subject of the particular expenses. you will in all possibility ought to provide up the vast rebate, yet basically evaluate what makes extra sense for you. good success!

Answer 3

It all depends on the car. THe smaller cheap cars have a smaller price below sticker compared to the larger luxury cars. Also it depends on how much in demand the model is. A Lexus will command a sticker price as will a Mini Cooper, but you could get an Accord for under sticker. Carsdirect.com is an excellent source. I used them to find a price and the dealers will usually match it. Bought a new 2006 Accord for only 16,770.

Answer 4

I see a lot of writing but no good info just wasting your own time and someone else's. Who on earth gets in to business To sellnypu a product that will cost them money? Lol. Who? Please show me this dealership where they are selling cars so that they can loose money? It does not exist. If you really want a deal go with a certified pre owned. The dealership fixes everything that could possibly be wrong with the vehicle and it's just as good as new. But as far as discounts you can easily get up to $6,000 off if you have cash. No dealer will give you some none sense discount on a loan. Put yourself in the position of the owner of the dealer....why on earth would you take a loss on a vehicle??? To make some wanna be hustler's day????

Answer 5

Never buy a new car, the value of it will depreciate at least 50% before the ink is dry on the contract. Diamonds are not what they're cut out to be. Gold is just a good conductor. Breast augmentation is dangerous and not really worth it. Tattoos are stupid. Pork is not white meat. The brand of deodorant you use will not get her hot. What else you need to know?