Someone mentioned a compound miter saw but those are usually for wood. For metal, they are called "chop saws" and have a large (16" = 40 cm or so) abrasive blade. Some have blades that can be angled. On others, you position the pipe and clamp it down at a 45. Any welding shop would do it for you for a few dollars.
Or better yet, sign up for a metal-working class at your local junior college, then you get to use all their cool and big tools for just the $100 class fee.
The best jig for doing it by hand would be to drill a 4 cm hole through a block of wood and intersect that hole with 45 degree cut into the wood. Use the cut to position your hacksaw blade and the hole to position and support the pipe.
Bending with "hickie" is doable by hand for thin-walled tubing in 2 and 3 cm sizes. 4cm and you need a big handle and good vise.
Perhaps you can use a pipe fitting (a 90 degree "ell" to secure two pieces of pipe, cut square, at a 90 degree angle.
Or you could drill 4 cm holes into a block of wood, aluminum or steel and secure square-cut pipe with screws through the block.
Note that SS "work hardens" which means the more you work it, the harder it gets. It makes cutting with blades and drills much harder than in other metals. Too fast or too slow just makes it worse. (Abrasive cutting works fine).
2006-08-31 06:28:22
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answer #1
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answered by David in Kenai 6
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2016-12-24 05:14:50
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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I'd like to suggest bending the pipe instead of cutting and welding. If you can, it's often stronger than cut and weld. Bending brakes used by electricians with conduit may let you do it yourself. A Google search found several services that handle up to 10" dia. pipe, so your 4 cm should be doable.
If cutting is the only way, you'll need a jig to hold the workpiece and a bench-top cutter firmly mounted at least, with a free-standing bandsaw the best bet. I'd make the jig of two parallel 2x4's nailed or screwed to the face of a 1x8, spaced to hold the pipes firmly (it should be tight, so the pipe won't turn; you can clamp them back from the cut). Put a block at the far end of the 2x4's , so the pipe can't walk backwards during the cut. Cut the whole assembly so the work/front end is a 45 deg guide, then mount the pipe and you're good to go.
It's probably a good idea to mount two guides on the bandsaw table, so when you slide your jig/pipe assembly, it can only make the angle you've set.
It you've got to do it by hand (hacksaw), the jig and mounting are still the way to go, but now the mounting should be firmly fixed to something strong and immovable (like a large bench, not a couple of saw-horses). Then just cut slowly and guide carefully letting the blade do the work.
Hope this helps...
2006-08-31 05:41:17
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answer #3
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answered by questor_2001 3
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A power miter saw **with the proper blade** can cut steel. It needn't be a compound saw. However, the saw will cost you a couple hundred dollars (US$), and the steel-cutting blade will add to that cost. I don't know your budget, but if you have the money this is likely the easiest way. But if you're not familiar with using power tools, DON'T DO THIS.
For a cheaper alternative, iIt may be that with a sturdy miter box (available at hardware stores) you could cut the pipe with a hand saw. Again, you would need a saw capable of cutting steel. A hacksaw will tend to bend and not make a straight cut, you need a sturdy blade for this.
As for bending the steel, I am sure that would cost quite a lot. Worth checking out, perhaps, but I'm doubtful that it is worth it.
Hope this helps.
edit added:
I found more info at www.amazon.com, if you're interested:
Power miter saw (compound type) available for $US 189:
http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DW703-Heavy-Duty-10-Inch-Compound/dp/B00005AUXJ/sr=8-1/qid=1157073795/ref=pd_bbs_1/103-2523065-0559863?ie=UTF8&s=hi
Cheap ($5 for pack of 10) abrasive wheels for cutting steel:
http://www.amazon.com/OLDHAM-US-SAW-Abrasive-Wheel/dp/B000BQ8AQE/sr=1-1/qid=1157074147/ref=sr_1_1/103-2523065-0559863?ie=UTF8&s=hi
(Again, I can't stress enough that you should be comfortable with using high-speed power tools if you decide to use this.)
2006-08-31 14:22:40
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answer #4
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answered by genericman1998 5
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There are many solutions to this Q. The key considerations are * Ensure that the mating surfaces are cut (or machined) accurately to make as much use of the frictional forces of the material itself. * Ensure the mating surfaces are clean and free of dust. To further reinforce the joint, consider using a proprietary wood adhesive In terms of adding components, some form of screwed-on L-shaped angle bracket to the outer 90 angle and same for inner angle. You could of course just use plastic conti-blocks for this purpose. If your design permits, pin a sheet of hardboard across the back of the angle (like say a drawer bottom panel). This makes the joint "very" strong If you use adhesive or bracketry, it is advisable to firmly clamp the components together and in the desired position before final fix.
2016-03-17 05:29:47
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answer #5
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answered by Anonymous
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You will probably have to use a compound mitre saw with a steel cutting blade. You might be able to find a stainless steel 90 degree elbow although I don't know where you will find them.
2006-08-31 05:38:40
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answer #6
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answered by Dah veed 5
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2017-03-08 22:00:34
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answer #7
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answered by ? 3
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Cut out a 45 degree by a fine flame and join as you like!
2006-08-31 05:07:07
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answer #8
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answered by moonface 2
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This is another solution:
___________
___________(O
If you grind a 'half moon' in one end, then place the other pipe in this 'half moon', you'll have a stronger joint
2006-08-31 05:06:27
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answer #9
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answered by mc2_is_e 2
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You're gonna hate this! Get ninety academics, ninety ounces of marijuana and a lot of Rizla papers.
Sorry, I can't brain today. I have the dumb.
2006-08-31 05:04:39
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answer #10
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answered by kittybriton 5
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