I'm replacing an existing lug breaker panel that happens to be located in the fire-rated wall between my kitchen and garage. Per California, I have to bring the new panel up to code, which means either pulling all the wires and surface-mounting the new panel (yeah, right) or building some type of framing around the new panel. This doesn't quite make sense to me. What is the framing supposed to protect against? And is this even correct? Are there any other options?
The subpanel is the main house panel, fed from a 100A breaker in the main panel outside. I actually already fed another subpanel off this one (located in the same fire-rated wall about 36" away), so I'm doubly-screwed. Any ideas?
2006-08-29 13:43:50 · 5 answers · asked by sky_jerm 2 in Home & Garden ➔ Decorating & Remodeling
Building the framing is designed to stop the fire from spreading up the wall into the attic space. Framing out around the box is not that big a deal.
Remove a panel of drywall breaking on the stud to either side of the box. Give yourself six inches above an below the new box dimensions. Frame in leaving the space for the fire rated gypsum board.
2006-08-29 17:59:05 · answer #1 · answered by wallysierk 2 · 1⤊ 0⤋
It’s good to see that you are doing some code work prior to construction. I strongly urge you to seek the advice of the senior electrical inspector in the town or county where the work (and permitted inspection) will take place.
Also consider inviting a licensed electrical contractor to bid on the replacement job. He or she may provide some worthy alternatives. It is refreshing to see that you understand that wall between the kitchen and garage is a one-hour fire rated wall, and penetrations in the wall are not allowed! But there are a few exceptions that require use of fire rated boxes (in this instance), and fire rated gypsum board or equivalent.
2006-08-29 23:37:45 · answer #2 · answered by Sociallyinquisitive 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If you line the framing with fire rated sheet rock, then insert panel, that should meet the code. Just allow an extra 1 1/4" to the length and width, and 5/8" to the depth.
Regardless of how you do it, you're going to have perforations where the wires come through to the box, so they should be caulked with fire caulking. (red)
Why does anyone put up with all the crazy crap they come up with in Ca, anyway?
2006-08-29 21:40:21 · answer #3 · answered by normobrian 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
The framing around the box can slow down any fire that may start in the breaker box. Go to your local library and check the National Electrical Code for the latest specifications.
2006-08-29 20:51:20 · answer #4 · answered by Albannach 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Go to Hilti.com and write thier 1-800 # down and call it during business hours - they employ a fire penetration specialist that really knows his stuff, I believe his name is Nick (anyone in that department can help you though). the panel doesn't have to be moved, you just need to use FS-1 penetration barrier and/or some other type of fire barrier that Hilti sells. Its approved for all types of pipe, conduit or wire penetrating a fire wall for up to a four hour rating. The stuffs expensive but worth it!
2006-08-30 00:27:54 · answer #5 · answered by Joe L 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋