First you need to install long thin strips of wood called furring(sp?) strips.
You may or may not need to use some type of vapor barrier.
" " insulation.
Your local hardware store shouild have at least one person technically qualified to give specifics for your area... find them and ask!
PS Nothinng more expensive(time and money) than a job that has to be redone!
Good luck
2006-08-24 04:10:56
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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There is more than one solution.
You can glue the drywall directly to the wall with a wallboard adhesive but it will need braces of some kind to hold it in place 'til the glue sets up. You can use a few concrete nails in each sheet also to hold it up but that is sometimes difficult with hard concrete. If you go this route be sure to use plenty of glue particularly on the edges.
Another way is to attach some kind furring strips to the concrete, wood, metal hat channel (ask a local drywall supply house about hat channel), then install the drywall to the strips.
You can also build a wall out of 1-5/8" metal studs in front of the concrete and then of course attach the drywall to the studs. This is the easiest but will also be the solution that uses the most space.
2006-08-24 06:16:03
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answer #2
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answered by familysport 2
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There are soooo many different variables here. Most of them have to do with moisture. Since you say there is no moisture problem, I will assume you are in a desert area (southwest US, etc.). In that area, yes, you can use construction adhesive to put up drywall. Lay some 1/2" shims (strips cut from 1/2" plywood or even sheetrock) on the floor next to the wall before rocking the wall, and set your drywall on that. Remove them when the glue dries. That will allow for expansion/contraction, hide any places that the floor isn't flat, and give you a place to run speaker wires if you decide you want to. Cover the gap with baseboard after you lay carpet or flooring. Put about a 2" blob (sorry about the technical terms) both horizontally and vertically every 12" on the wall. I'd use PowerGrab because you can position the rock, mush it (tech term) against the wall, and the PowerGrab will hold it in place until it dries. You have about 15 minutes to adjust it if you need, but it'll keep the sheet from falling away. Watch your seams to make sure each sheet is pressed as tightly to the concrete as the next. Leave a 1/2" space between the sheetrock and the door frame (for expansion/contraction). This will keep your door from binding and the trim around the door will cover the gap. Mud & tape the seams and you're done. If your time and sanity are worth anything to you, this is the cheapest/fastest way to rock your room. Grinding/mudding/texturing will take time and test your will. You can do it that way, but I don't think you will be satisfied with the result. Understand these instructions are for desert areas only. In other areas, you don't have a moisture problem because the concrete "breathes". As soon as you rock it, you will have to deal with moisture accordingly.
2016-03-27 03:38:20
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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build a subwall or frame from 2x4 s
put studs on it every 16"
then you will have a nice even job when its all done and its not hard to do at all
dont forget insulation behind your drywall,keeps heat/air conditioning in the room
2006-08-24 04:11:41
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answer #4
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answered by milf man 2
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You need something to nail the drywall to..studs or strapping
2006-08-24 04:07:18
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answer #5
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answered by dwh12345 5
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