My fingers get numb when cycling long distances...?

Question

any tips?

they don't usually start to get numb until after 20 miles or so...
i just got new gloves thinking that would help... and it did a bit... but my fingers still get pretty numb.
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks guys.

Answer 1

Well, your fingers shouldn't be numb after only 20 miles, if you are on pavement.

As others said, change hand positions, do not use a death grip...stay relaxed, loose elbows as well for shock absorption.

You may need to take the bike to a shop and ask them to check the fit. The bike may not be the right size, or you may need to adjust the seat height/position or stem height.

If you are new to cycling, you just may be adjusting to the rigors of being on the road...your body may very well adjust.

Happy trails!

Answer 2

Some other things to try are to drop your seat slightly (only if it doesn't throw the ride position off). Raise the stem or if it is the threadless setup, swap the stem to the higher angle. This will raise the handle bars and shift your weight off your arms & hands and onto the seat. You might also try the Specialized bar phat if you have a road bike. It is a cork tape that has either 2.5mm or 5mm gel inserts. The inserts are put on the tops & drops of the handle bars and then wrapped over with the tape. You can also wrap a cork tape with a gel backing over the existing tape for more cushion. It also might help by changing your hand position on the bars every few minutes.

Answer 3

First thing to do is to get a yardstick and then measure with your arm straight out from ribcage (armpit) to palm center. (Hint, think "spread eagle" or "crucifix" and then put the yardstick against your ribcage and see what number is in your palm).

This is your reach

Now measure across your bike top tube (more reliably, use the manufacturer's listed "effective top tube length" from their web site). Add to this, the extension of your stem. That's top tube plus stem. (A similar measure is seat post to grip center-center, while the yardstick is paralell with the floor)

This is your bike's reach

Your bike should not exceed your reach.


Second, distance riding need some way to take a nice break while you're going down the road.

A riser stem, such as Profile Designs H20 (aebike.com) in about 90mm or so (whatever your reach needs--or less reach for greater comfort)--riser can add distance to your ride.
Yeah, boot the factory standard, gorilla stem off that bike!


More severe problems can use a Zoom or Delta "hike post" but those "spend" a bit of areo performance in trade for distance.

At Speedgoat.com, you'll find Nitto Albatross handlebars in the road bike size. That's about 19" wide and the tubing is 23.5 (23.something) so that Shimano STI road levers can clamp it. These don't go like the picture. These are drop bars. They belong with the shifters across the front like a moustache and the bars nicely wrapped up in thick cork handlebar tape.
A mountain bike commuter stem or a 25.4 to 26 shim is necessary to mount these.

The effect of the Albatross (North Road) is a forwards portion for areodynamics and a backswept portion where you can take a break and get much more leverage for hills. Remember, "Narrow is Areo," so get the smallest width of these so you can enjoy performance and comfort together.


Just 20 miles? That could also mean that your bike is too large. Nitto's narrowest Albatross with the larger tubing will fix your current bike.

In the future, consider purchasing 1 size smaller bike and some "uncut" forks. The steerer tube is nearly 2 feet long instead of pre-cut. Instead of a salesmen making a decision for you--You decide how long it should be and you cut it off (add as many stack rings/stem spacers as you like). You can then enjoy a shorter top tube (smaller frame) and put the handlebars wherever you like.

My reach is 25" My current road bike has a reach of 25" to the "top" grip. This is maximum tolerance. This is for maximum areodynamics; however, I perform poorly during overreaching for the shifters. Whenever reach is exceeded, simple leverage (and speed) is diminished.

Real-Life Test:
1) Perhaps you should test drive a Diamondback Edgewood/Winwood in 1 size small. It will be showing an epic amount of seatpost. Be sure that several inches remains in the bike before your test drive.

2) Now test drive what the store says to be the correct size.

3) Actually, whichever one is livelier and faster is the correct size. Long seatposts are available at Nashbar.com and many other places.

I recommended going to the Diamondback / Raleigh dealer and test driving this model because it is capable of distances exceeding 130 miles with minimal effort.
And, it illustrates either slowly or quickly, the effect of bike size. Test drives are free and the bike is inexpensive. Enjoy!

*A set of Rol Road wheels will cause that model Diamondback to keep up with a road bike club with even less effort because those are Colorado designed for extra speed on hills. This will even out the climbing speed difference in the heavier Diamondback and a lighter road bike. The 700c x 23mm Michelin flat protect racing/training tires with matching Michelin featherweight tubes also help. I usually see these machines. . .passing.

*This model has adjustable handlebars AND you should know that the drop bars made for mountain XC racers (25.4mm clamp) fit just fine on models that have trigger shift (not grip shift). Shifters and brakes go near the stem, cyclocross style. Hey, then you have fully adjustable drop bars and an easy reach for the shifter! ;)

The end result of this suggestion is a fine, fast 700c cyclocross with a smallish size, high speed, and an easy reach. Yet in factory condition, the inexpensive, skinny wheel 700c hybrids really go the distance (if you get a good fit). Notice the epic length seatposts on this year's Tour-de-France. You can adjust the stem, not the frame. The remaining difference between this and a $2k cyclocross is an all-alloy crankset. See harriscyclery.com for more details on pain, distance, and touring.

Hope that helps!

Answer 4

I found a very simple solution to this problem. If you are riding with any angle less than 180 degrees between your arm and the back of your hand, you will be reducing blood supply and causing numb hands. Just look down at your hands while riding, they should form a straight line with your forearms. If not, just rotate your hands forward until they do.

Using this proper hand position, I have no problem riding my flat-bar road bikes for hours at a time. My handlebar is at or just below my seat height.

Answer 5

First buy handlebars with varied positions (Drop bar, Extension units, or full aero bars). Change you position every 5-7 minutes depending on distance this improves comfort and grip on the handlebars. Switch to a higher quality glove with it being machine washable to control softness. Also re-tape the handlebars with high quality cork tape not cloth, foam, or plastic tape because this might increase soreness and strain on finger tips. And last use a training or riding schedule to limit time for riding and resting.

Answer 6

Make sure you are fitted to your bike properly. I have also doubled up on bar tape to make my handlbar larger for my big hands, it helps in damping vibration as well that could be causing numbness. Also I shake my hands whenever I feel a little fatigue in them. I also change hand positions frequently, so keep moving around the bar, relax your grip and try doubling up on bar tape.

Answer 7

Relax your grip. Also loosen up your shoulders. When gripping the handlebars try to imagine holding onto something about twice the size. Loosen the shoulders by rolling them. Hope this helps.

Answer 8

I bicycled cross country and it happened to me alot as well. I had to shake my hands a lot or always change position. I'll be watching this question for an answer as well....after 5800 miles I guess I just got used to it.

Answer 9

My hand would get numb sometimes while mt. biking, suggestions were to adjust my seat height and it seemed to have worked for me.
good-luck

Answer 10

You have to relax and move your hands. You are cutting off the oxygen that goes through your palms.