what is the average speed of a biker?

Question

not someone whos a profesional, just a normal person

Answer 1

when I started road biking, I averaged 12 to 15 mph
now with more endurance and strenght, I average 16 to 20, depending on the hill climbs... but I can maintain on the flats 22 to 25 if I am feeling good that day.

I still average around 13 to 15 on my mountain bike (on paved roads) and 6 to 9 on trails.

Answer 2

The normal cyclist, someone who rides with regularity can average between 13 and 15 mph without to much problem. There are any number of factors that can contribute to average, wind, hills, rain etc. It also depends on the bicycle you ride and where you prefer to ride, (road or trails) As for myself I carry a better average on roads than when I ride trails.

Answer 3

For a recreational rider on a mountain bike 10-15 mph is good. On a road bike 16-20 mph is good.

Answer 4

There are two groups: regular amateurs, and people out for a lazy ride.

The people out for a lazy ride generally are going 5-8 mph.

The regular amateurs typically are going 13-20 mph. If you are just starting out, you will probably be able to maintain 13-15 mph for about 20 minutes.

To a pedestrian moving at about 3-4 mph, this seems ridiculously fast.

Answer 5

It depends on the rider, the bike and the location. My average all around is about 16mph. Less so if I'm doing a lot of climbing, more if it's a flatter ride (relatively speaking- there are no flat parts in the Colorado foothills).

Answer 6

The average cyclist probably rides between 8 and 13 mph.

Answer 7

Don't understand your question. You typed "biker", which denotes a motorcycle rider. Did you mean a "cyclist" which denotes a bicycle rider? Who, by the by, are a menace on the streets of L.A. Always making life threatening moves into traffic. Anyway, to answer your question: I don't know. But they almost always go slower than cars.

Answer 8

My average is 30 km/hr on road.

Answer 9

The average for distance touring is 9.5 miles per hour.

My touring average is 13, from a heavy bike uphill, a quick zip down and a fairly competitive flat ground pace. Or a road bike with less ergonomics, a faster trip through the hills and a slower flat ground pace. Same average.

Yes, I can do more, but 13 is what I do when I'm enjoying the trip.

Headwinds can have an effect, as well as conditioning.
Type of bike?
The mountain bike and upright bike struggles through the headwinds well below 7 mph, consuming enough energy to climb a sharp hill except that this power output is now required on flat ground. Ouch!
The odd looking trekking bike (Euro bike) with its "wilted arrow" handlebars clambers through the wind at a reasonable 12 or so, while carrying an extra 40 pounds of camping supplies in rear "pannier" bags that I'm sure aren't areodynamic. ;)
The road bike suddenly becomes comfortable as it cuts through the wind at around 15. Yet this is the only time the headfirst nature "pays off." *Some modern designs have a better balance of comfort and areo than mine.

Even in a "normal person," one who trained on headwinds and not hills will run past the "hill climber" on flat ground.
Of course, the "hill climber" will run fastest up the hills.

Weight makes a difference on hills, and only on hills.
The lighter weight bicycle is faster on uphills.
Bike weight counts for 3.14 times more than rider weight.
Wheel weight counts for 3.14 times more than bike weight. Oh my!!
*This is a rough estimate, although a highly usable approximation.

Drivetrains with gaps can make a big difference.
Trying to go up a hill with a 7 speed Mega Range makes a huge step between a 20 inch gear and a 30 inch gear, while the 8 and 9 speed versions jam a lovely 25 inch gear right into the middle of this for an uphill "floating uphill" sensation.
It is like stairs with shorter or taller steps.
In this case, changing the rear cassette and right side shifter can make for a faster average speed (both a larger number--the same larger number of selections).

Cadence can make a big difference. Once again, on hills, if the bike doesn't have enough low gears to let you pedal fast, mashing your way up a hill is usually slower than spinning your way up a hill.
For the road bike, these may be upgraded to a mountain rear drive with no cost to weight or speed, using an LX M571 Top Normal SGS (or similar XT, XTR for the "weight weenies") and an 11-32 cassette in an appropriate weight range to match the "class" of bike. No shifter change is needed on Shimano bikes because rear drives are cross compatible as long as the number of cogs is the same. Not only facilitating less joint pressure, this also stops the annoying "grandma" chainring dance on hills.
This upgrade will also result in a faster average speed.

Shoe attachment or lack of it will affect average speed. While platform pedals are lovely on the flat, shoe attachment makes for a quicker start and a fast uphill boost. Shoe straps combine the safety and low cost of platform pedals with the performance of pro shoe attachment.

Comfort affects average speed because it usually indicates leverage, also called "ergo power." The more ergonomic bike is faster unless the handlebars are too far up and catch wind. Up and out works for both ergonmics and areo while retaining superior leverage. The saddle, if too narrow can cause loss of leverage for very slow speeds, and if too wide could require taller handlebars or else cut off circulation.
Comfort affects average speed, most especially at longer distances. Through a precision fit, it can be applied at no loss to areodynamic performance.

Chain lubricants that are not CLEAR are the same chain lubricants that will not enter the inside of the chain.
If it looks goopy, the inside of the chain will be rusted.
To stop or reverse this damage, Singer Sewing machine oil can be applied one time (removes the goop and the rust), and then EPIC chain lubricant (from the bike store) keeps the chain lubricated and it keeps dust from sticking.
This certainly affects average speed.

Same-same metals in the drivetrain are like substituting the rollers on rollerskates with. . .sandpaper.
That's why cranksets with fine alloy gears go faster.
They are also much more relaxing without all that racket.
A fine crankset makes for faster averages.

"Bang!!" and if you're hearing this from your front wheel, then your bike could be suffering "slapback."
Slapback is the term used to describe a bike pushing road abberations instead of rolling over.
This is seen in mountain bikes that have too much air in the front tire--for a 2" tire, pressures in the range of 40 pounds, give or take, is just fine.
This is seen in road bikes that have had their slow factory wheels replaced with botique wheels containing less than 20 front spokes.
One can, of course reduce front air pressure, use a larger front tire, or even have the wheel re-set for slightly less tension--all will prevent slapback.
Slamming the front wheel, "slapback," certainly affects average speed.

Proper fit? Most bike stores use the traditional method for sizing bikes. This is usually a good thing, but never a substitute for a test drive. Fastest IS fit, because efficiency tells ergo power. Modern frames no longer use the traditional "Standover Height" method because of the sloping top tube and a few other similar factors, such as rapidly increasing reach between frame sizes.
Customers purchasing an overlarge bike to get the handlebars higher will get quickly defeated by the modern frame's rapidly longer reach. Expect to show much seatpost on modern bikes, otherwise the result is a bike where you have no leverage. Did you notice the epic seatposts on the Tour-de-France? Wow.
For taller handlebars, choose a bike type with naturally taller bars, like Specialized Roubaix (for an example of a proven, speedy racer with an easy reach--not the typical "headfirst" ride)--but don't try to get reach with a larger frame. That won't work with modern bikes. Bike stores may wish to switch to the cyclocross fit methods of measuring flexability and reach instead of legs--on any bike with "lettered" sizes.
Until then, a test drive--a lot of test drive, is very reliable. Lack of a test drive is usually the cause of slowness in most "E-bay and Internet bikes."
Fit is an extremely important factor in average speeds.
Perhaps it is the most important.

Answer 10

Ummmm......15 mph? Oh damn, TookACab2Rehab called you Lance Bass!!!!