Any precautions before using ‘Panel’ for oil/acrylic ?

Question

Help me understand more about using panels. Any tips on gesso? Any additional adhesive or preservatives to add to protect the art?

Answer 1

I'm VERY glad it helped. :)
Ok, I think one of the first things I would like to say about panels, is, especially with masonite, try to use the 1/8 inch. 1/4 is not only more expensive, but very heavy and almost impossible to cut.(Not to mention hanging!!!) !/8 is PLENTY of thickness, anyway. This size will also fit very nicely into almost any standard sized picture frame, which will be an asset to you if you do a large body of work and sell them. people tend to be VERY picky about their frames (decor related, mostly) and it will be easier for you to accomodate them or for them to accomodate themselves because the frames are much easier to get. Custom framing is OUTRAGEOUS but understandable because of the work involved. Also, thinner panels will fit into the neat little clear sleeves sometimes used at shows--it protects the work and looks neat.
I would say anything over 11x14 needs to be braced. Warpage is next to impossible to fix in a panel- brace with 1x2's cut the length of the panel-glued with gorilla or carpener glue)- say you have a 36x48 (3 feet x 4 feet) you would have 4 pieces going 32" high (roughly), every 12"
(l l l l ),the outer two actually touching the outside edge, andtwo pieces going 48" long, (=) top and bottom. I hope that's understandable, it's hard without actually showing you! LOL!!
Other types of wood panels should be well seasoned and completely dry. A canvas typ frame will have to be used on this if it is thicker than 1/8-1/4 in)
Next, sand any sharp edges of the panel with sandpaper. I always use a rough paper and then go over it with a smaller grain. A 'mouse' electric sander will be a must if you are doing many more than 10-20 panels, unless you want carpel-tunnel syndrome! LOL!!! These are ready to gesso and dry for a day or so (6-8 weeks for traditional gesso) and go for it!
To put fabric on your panels, cut the fabric 2 inches bigger than the panel itself and make sure it is somewhat lightweight or it won't stay down. Use either white glue or acrylic emulsion(which is also an adhesive and paint extender) (gallon size is more economical when doing a lot--any art supplies will always be cheaper if you buy them in bulk.) and a paintbrush and make a thin even coat of glue and put the fabric on and press down getting out all air bubbles.Fold the back over --should have about 2 inches to play with) and glue these securely.Lay flat and DO NOT STACK or even let them touch until completely dry. (wait about a day or so.) Then put your gesso on, do not stack!!!wait, and paint! If the panel is a 'standard size', to make them look more finished and professional, you can buy pads of drawing paper in standard sizes, also, 5x7, 8x10, 11x14, etc..I just tear off a piece and glue it to the back, making sure the paper covers the fabric on the back.
I also bought a tiny roller to put my gesso on (I use the acrylic) It was a nice metal holder with little pink pop on rollers I think I bought it at the hardware store for like $5 and a roller will do like 200 panels easy. I don't know if they make these anymore but a small roller will do good and save on gesso. I tended to use a lot more when I just 'brushed' it on. If you want more texture this is not the way to go, this method I just mentioned will give you a SMOOOOOTH surface. Use one layer. (Sinks into fabric better)
I haven't tried it yet, but I have heard you can add marble dust to your paint or gesso to giv texture, but overloading could cause problems with adhesion.
I use soluvar by liquitex. It seemed to be the safest alternative to other finishes that could become suspect in nature over time by darkening, cracking, etc. Soluvar is not supposed to do any of that, and it stood the test after the hurricane, the paintings just wiped off like they were glass or something. I use the glossy, it's not too overbearing and is easier to put on than the matte. (I haven't used the matte but have heard it can leave matte areas mixed with glossy areas if it is not mixed good. ) It can be used on acrylic paintings or OIL!!!:)
I haven't used any traditional varnishes or finishes(which is for OIL ONLY!!! :) ) --after reading all the bad things that can happen I was scared to try it!LOL!!! If I do I'll let you know. Hope this helps..I would go on but I'm almost out of characters LOL!!! :) SD

Answer 2

u can use any sturdy support, masonite, or this is what i do: buy some good quality wood from a wood supplies, (pine is excellent) about 5ml (bit more that an eight 'th of an inch thick) Buy some acrylic gesso from your art supplies and slap 2 or 3 coats on the panels, cut to size by the wood supplies. Sandpaper the surface b4hand if u want, to give it a good tooth. Or, if u want u can apply the acrylic gesso to thick watercolor paper. Masonite board is ok too, use the smooth side, (lite sandpaper) with as many acrylic gesso coats as u think ok. The acrylic gesso can also be watered down very easily and is dry in an hr or so. Good luck.

Answer 3

If your talking about those pre-made boards in art supply stores, with the canvass glued to them- They tend to "curl" over time, so the painting is slightly concave after a few years. Hope this helps.

Answer 4

Oil: board/rabbit skin glue/gesso/medium/varnish
Acrylic: board/gesso/medium/UVvarnish