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Tires will list a PSI (pounds per square inch) range on the side. You want to make sure you stay within this range. The lower end will give you a softer, more comfortable ride, but it generally be less efficient and more prone to flat tires. The higher end of the range will give you a firmer, more efficient ride, but it will also transfer more of the road vibrations to you. On a road bike, the range is usually 100-120 psi. Me personally, I tend to go for the higher end because I like the efficiency and lack of flat tires.

2006-08-16 05:19:35 · answer #1 · answered by Mark M 1 · 1 0

It depends on the tires you run. Tires will list a PSI (pounds per square inch) range on there side. I prefer to run Continental tires and run 150 psi. Your weight doesn't have any bearing on your tire pressure, it does however have a bearing on the size tire you should run. If your weight class is170lbs or less you can get by with a 700 x18c or a 700x20c and if you are in the 185lbs class or more it's recommended you use 700x23c or larger tire. Road bikes tire pressure should be run at the top end of the recommended tire psi to get the maximum benefit of the tire, speed, ride, performance and most importantly longevity of the tire, to little psi and you break down the sidewall, to much and you use up the tire tread rather quickly.
Again, should be run at the top end of the recommended tire psi to get the maximum benefit, and use a good tire gauge to check your pressure before every ride.

2006-08-16 13:04:13 · answer #2 · answered by Ric 5 · 1 0

look at the side of you're tires, they will say max psi. usually for a road bike its 100 psi. But for a racing bike its 120 psi. Just read the side of the tire and you're pump should have a gage.

2006-08-16 04:24:58 · answer #3 · answered by Rada2017 3 · 2 0

I prefer mine set to MAX PSI as read on the side of the tire. If you're very light, like under 130 lbs, you might want to go 10-15 PSI lower than that for comfort. The higher the pressure, the harsher the ride, but the lower your rolling resistance is and the faster you go with less effort.

2006-08-17 12:08:19 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 1 0

First, look at the tire sidewall. It will tell you the range of PSI your tire should be in. for most road bikes, it is 85-110. NOw, you get to choose what type of ride you want, fast but bumpy, or cushy but slower. You could also compromise, but at one point or another, you will end up favoring one side. I usually pump my tires to 100 for normal training rides and all the way for races, unless they are extremely bumpy.

2006-08-18 10:34:29 · answer #5 · answered by Mike 2 · 1 0

The point of inflation?
Performance:
One does not want flex in the drivetrain (rear) and one does not want to slam the front of the bike into slo mo or jumping (front). This won't be the exact same inflation pressure on both tires.
Safety:
One does want enough air to cut out rolling resistance and enough air to avoid flats.


Whatever the max inflation is for the back should be fine for most people. However, the front should be about 20 pounds less for most people, otherwise the bike would slow down from striking the bumps so very hard.

It also depends a bit on rider weight, but not because of rider weight.
It is because of pneumatic effect.
A tire needs to "give" ever so slightly in order for it to work. This is most important for aluminum bikes.
Otherwise, a bit of gravel will send the bike into the ditch on cornering.

An exception to this is the professional carbon fiber bike running specialty wheels that can be "set" easily to a given rider. These need rock hard tires.

Larger tires need much less air pressure than smaller tires. Pressure is "per square inch" and larger tires have more inches.

"Trainer" and flat protection tires need less air than racing tires.

This is combined when the road bike is used for rain and city with Panaracer T-Serv 25mm (time racer) or 28mm (road). Both flat protect and larger size, much less air is needed than in a racing tire.

A soft econo racing tire, like what comes with the bike, needs as much air as you can tolerate, and sometimes up to 10% over the mark or it will go flat at least once per every 25 miles, depending on roads.

A new breed of tire is the racing flat protect, like Serfas Seca RS. These combine flat protect with a more flexable casing for break-even approximation of an un-protected racing tire. Inflate as you would a racing tire--manufacturers recommendation on the back and a bit less for the front.


Four steps:

1
Start with the manufacturers recommended pressure as written on the side of the tire--the rear tire.
Air it up.
Use slightly less in the front tire.

2
Tire volume and a tire's inherent stiffness affect the required inflation pressure.
See roadbikereview.com for more information
Frequent flats=need more pressure
Rock hard ride=needs less pressure

3
Bike type, wheel firmness, and application (road) also affect the inflation pressure.
Stout wheels=needs less pressure
Lossy / cushy frame materials=needs more pressure
Labratory surfaces / perfect concrete=more pressure
Chip-n-Seal / tar stripes=needs less pressure

4
The rider's weight does very little to change the needed pressure, but some accomodation is usually beneficial even though it is a very small difference in inflation.


Sometimes one will have an incredibly rough and thus slow ride--slapback.
Here's the usual culprits:
A) Botique front wheel with less than 20 spokes
B) Front tire made for a carbon fiber bike--yet installed on an aluminum bike.
C) Both A and B

The easiest fix is to use one size larger tire on just the front so that severe under-inflation (which would reduce speed) is not necessary; and this approach accomodates both aluminum and carbon bikes.

For the aluminum bike, a more cushy tire, more cushy front wheel or both could be used to get the bike back under control. Because a Roubaix style front wheel is absolutely frightening to look at, try the tire approach first, next a standard radial wheel with 20 or more spokes, and then last, the thin spoke 20x2 or 24x2 (Roubaix) front wheel (last resort) to get your cornering safety and average speeds up.

See roadbikereview.com for more detail on tires.

Inflation compensates tire stiffness to accomodate bike frame, rider weight, wheel tension, efficiency, and road surface.

Road bike club and bike store mechanic will have more information because they'll be able to see your bike, what you use now, where your bike goes, and then apply it.

2006-08-18 03:21:09 · answer #6 · answered by Daniel H 3 · 0 1

Pump it to 100-115 psi

2006-08-19 14:04:18 · answer #7 · answered by Eddie 4 · 0 0

i work in a bike shop as a mechanic,you should NEVER go any lower than 100 psi. get a good floor pump with a gauge and make it a habit of pumping up your tires before every ride as road tires tend to lose pressure overnight. they will drop to 80 psi over a 24 hour period. tires with low pressure are more prone to "pinch flats" when you hit a pothole or curb.NEVER go over your max psi. ride on and ride safe;)

2006-08-16 14:09:15 · answer #8 · answered by aquatic_life_lover 1 · 1 2

I'm 6'2 and about 190 pounds, and I inflate to 115 PSI. My wife is 5'7 125, and she goes to 95 PSI. It depends on your weight, so use those number to figure out where you should be.

2006-08-16 06:51:58 · answer #9 · answered by Atilla 2 · 1 2

get pump with gauge,look on tire,follow directions!!

2006-08-17 05:55:49 · answer #10 · answered by smitmeister_99 3 · 1 0

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