I have a 2002 mazda 626 that needs an engine rebuild..?

Question

My mazda is barely 5 years old, and the last people who had it did not maintain it at all. not even an oil change. Now it's making all sorts of noises, it has a low end engine knock and a rattle on top of it. ( i've heard cars make worse noise but this sounds sick ) I've put so much into this car, as far as repairs and maintaince goes, now I have to have a new engine before it throws a rod. I'm not completely car stupid, but I can't figure out what this means, the main piston rod? I can't picture what this would look like, I imagine something like the drive shaft falling while driving. but that's easier repaired than "throwing a rod" I've heard a car throw a rod and the engine locked up and never driven again.. it literally died. Can some one give me a better answer than " she's gonna throw a rod" ? what the hell does this mean? how could it have been prevented? is there any way to expand the life expectancy o fthe enigne? Urgh !

Answer 1

zoey- get a male to take your car to a few mechanics and get a consensus on how bad it is.

if you're a female who's totally "car impaired" they'll try to sell you the moon.

A thrown rod is a piston rod that has detached from the cylinder and wrecked havoc inside the cylinder chamber. If this hasn't happened yet then you DON'T need a new engine. The cylinders can be machined if needed and the engine can be "rebuilt"

check out this site and begin your education...

http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm

Answer 2

If you are getting a knocking sound from the lower part of the engine, that could be rod knock. The pistons connect to the crankshaft with a piston rod. At either end of this rod, there is a bearing -- one at the piston and the other where the piston rod attaches to the crankshaft. If the engine has had poor maintenance and the bearings have not received enough oil, these bearings can loosen and cause the knock. Eventually, the bearing will fail and break. When a piston rod bearing fails, it's called "throwing a rod." A chunk of metal can break off and do a lot of damage inside the engine. Of course, the car will be completely inoperative at that time and you will be stranded.

The upper engine rattle that you're hearing sounds to me like worn valve lifters, again the victim of poor lubrication. Although all these things can be fixed individually and you could do the work yourself if you have good tools, a good repair manual and a lot of time, it's best to simply get a new engine. What you need is called a "long block," which is a new engine block with the cylinder head attached. (It could be a rebuilt or remanufactured long block... that's fine too.) All your other accessories (A/C compressor, alternator, power steering pump) simply bolt onto the long block and you're back in business.

Sorry to hear about the poor maintenance by the previous owner. Sounds like the previous owner was an idiot and you're stuck paying the price. Good luck!

Answer 3

A connecting rod is a rod that connects the piston to the crankshaft, if you have 4 pistons, you have 4 connecting rods. Rods carry the power from the explosion on the other side of piston to the crankshaft causing it to rotate, at the point where the rod connects with crank, there is a rod bearing, when this bearing fails you get a knock that will damage rod and crank,if the rod or crank fail the engine won't rotate. there is no quick fix, but sometimes a thicker oil may slow the process, and have a cell phone with you

Answer 4

Upper end may just be adjustments(but believe your car needs new parts as self adjusting) BUT with your other problem...

Sounds like MAIN crank case has seared bearings(low end).

Which means it's wobbling. This happens when oil is not changed. Or in severe accidents.

Boy they saved money(NOT) on maintenance AS to rebuild/replace requires ALOT of work.

What are ther prices for a new(newly rebuilt) engine and its installation as that is what it will take to cure your problem.

Good news it may last quite some time as/is before letting lose...
SO if spending well over a thousand dollars(imports expensive)
is not an option then START saving now and only maintenance I would do is check oil/water/air at least monthly and replace air filter and oil plus filter yearly(once a year). Use the cheapest oil...

And yes synthetic oil needs to be replaced as it's the microscopic
debris that gets past air filter/oil filter that you are removing even though the oil has not broken down.

Low engine knock is the best reason to change oil as it is preventable. All cars are at severe schedule for maintenance.

Mean time no JACK rabbit starts as that increase strain on crank... and going easy on accelerations may give you additional time.

Next used car make sure it's been properly maintained AND a
knowledgeable mechanic checks it- NOT the dealers!-and knows what people do to cover their NOT having performed maintenance etc.

Sorry you got took- it happens. Good luck and let me know what you decide. Odds are a young man who hotrodded and spent his money elsewhere was the previous owner. Having been one myself I never buy used from them(yes I know it's pretty and the price was good).

Answer 5

I labored on a V6 Mazda that seized the compressor and the A/C seize. The A/C pulley might want to turn freely. With engine off, turn on key and turn on A/C. The seize will be engaged and turning the pulley will turn the compressor. If both is seized, that is going to likely be definitely obvious.

Answer 6

I searched the internet and this is all I could come up with. I sure hope it helps. http://www.videovat.com/videos/907/hot-rod-engine-explosion.aspx

Answer 7

maybe you could go with adjusting the valves and checking out the timing chain then some oil additives.dont know how good it is but slick 50 maybe seems like you car is still pretty new to have to rebuild it.

Answer 8

its actually the piston rods that they are refering too

Answer 9

there is nothing u can do at this point. f the ppl b4 u didnt even chg the oil ur car is done for. sry about ur situation