My car is getting a draw from the battery. I replaced the altenator , and battery but i still have a draw and i cant seem to locate the problem and i was wondering if anyone has the same problem or knows whats wrong. I've used a test light and pulled a fuse from the fuse box under the hood and the light stopped pulsing then i put it back and went in the car and pulled my cluster, flasher, rcc memory fuse and the pulsing stopped so somewere in between this is the problem and i can not seem to locate it.
2006-08-10 10:29:32 · 6 answers · asked by Jennifer T 2 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Car Makes ➔ Ford
Hate how this thing brings people making points just by dissing cars.
But any how,
I think you have an idea but maybe not all on checking for draw.
The testlight is good on older cars but on the newer cars it can tell you but usually won't help with diagnosis.
On those cars, the car will normally draw about 1/2 an amp of current for one hour to help "wake up" certain modules faster as well as keep power to some people's conforts (Like the radio after the key is sut off for instance).. But you need to trip the door ajar switch in the drivers door by locking the latch to not set off a false positive because the dome light was on, then after you connect the test light in series, you are still looking at an hour wait until you can start pulling fuses. The pulsing light was the blinking light on your dash for the anti theft light!!!!!! (It pulses in such a way that it won't draw more than that allowed by Ford but with a test light sets off a false positive).
Best thing would be an amp meter in series (buy them at Sears or any other big box outlet) to the battery. Red lead on the cable, black on the battery, set to amps and make sure it stays in line and connected for the whole time. after 1 hour max draw should be .005 amp or 50 milliamps. any more and you have a problem (but usually you can go up to .010 amp in a daily driver).. then pull your fuses one by one to eliminate.
My guess is one of the lights is not going off in the interior possibly or if equipped, the radio amp/radio (I'm talking factory equipment here) has created a draw problem.. this is what I find on Fords most often.... Others have been the drivers power seat and accesory delay relays staying on way after the hour...
Most people don't realize however, the current draw any add on accessories can draw on a battery.. So if you have anything aftermarket hooked up in the car, disconnect first (radar detectors for example have pulled .3 amps by themselves being on)
If you have any problems please post again
2006-08-10 13:55:52 · answer #1 · answered by gearbox 7 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Ford Taurus Electrical Problems
2017-01-12 15:08:42 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 1⤋
the test light shouldnt pulse, or ive never seen it do that, try the test again, this time connect the test light and then touch the negative terminal to the negative battery post, just touch it as it has something to do with the computor, then the light should glow, but if it continues to flash or pulse then keep checking, this time slow down. when the light stops because of removing the fuse under the hood see what circuit it powers, then slowly remove each and every fuse on that circuit and replace the same fuse to see which one causes it to stop pulsing. if this fuse doesnt do it put it back and pull the next one, dont pull them all at once and then look. your getting into some serious electrical diagnosis so slow down is the key
2006-08-10 11:33:38 · answer #3 · answered by Christian 7 · 1⤊ 0⤋
The fuse you've pulled out, look in the owner's manuel and see what that fuse controls, it may control 2 or 3 different things.
2006-08-10 13:49:11 · answer #4 · answered by kayef57 5 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Here's the problem: It's a Ford! Fords are the crappiest cars on Earth. Everyone I've EVER known with a Ford has had nothing but problems. Considering they consistently deliver a sub-standard product, it's amazing that Ford is still in business at all! My advice: Sell it and buy a decent car.
2006-08-10 10:36:11 · answer #5 · answered by The Man In The Box 6 · 0⤊ 3⤋
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Remove front door panels. Disconnect the door lock switch on th driver side, now press the lock button on the passenger side, does it work? If yes, replace driver side lock control, if no disconnect passenger side lock switch and test driver side. Look at the selenoid that lock and unlock. Those rarely break. Switches break more often.
2016-04-08 18:01:53 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 1⤋