What is a good road bicycle for me?

Question

I'm a 43 yr. old male, in good shape and I'm in the market for a good performing bike in the $600 to $900 range.

Answer 1

A well considered answer into a price range that only buys a "weekend warrier" type bike?

Okay, then we'll try to give you some variety and a few good hints to see that you get the most pleasure out of it.

Starting off with the very fastest bike in that price range, the Specialized Allez Triple simply blows the rest away (followed shortly by Canondale), while saving you enough to get a decent wheelset. Unfortunately, the fragile frame, responsible for its speed, requires accomodations. Should you get it an enhanced wheelset, each wheel should contain a minimum of 20 evenly spaced spokes and more is fine. That's a bit more expensive than the 16 spoke decoration wheels. You'll also need a shorter stem than the one included, because headtube crackout is a sure thing with a "gorilla" stem. Profile Designs H20 90mm would bring it within the range of normal and safety, but this isn't the bike for you if your arms are long or if you are heavier than 150 pounds.

Schwinn road bikes, while not glamorous, are extraordinarily effective at their no-compromise blend of speed and comfort. You may find one that is, in fact below your price range to have equally satisfying performance to other manufacturers higher priced bikes.
Technology trickle-down provides a featherweight, yet extremely durable AND shock absorbing 3d aluminum frame to Schwinn road bikes from $375 on up.

At the price range you're looking at, there's about two effective differences between these and a $2000 bike. Those are crankset with alloy chainrings and fast wheels (specifically, 20/20 or 24/20 with effective, evenly spaced spokes). These are easy to change. Due to technology trickledown which results in fantastic frames and rear drive systems for all modern bikes and the fact that the usual two lacking points (above) are ever so much less expensive aftermarket, price no longer has merit.

Don't be shy about buying a bike that is equipped with a "road triple" and advanced gearing, such as a 12-27 cassette or even a mountain rear (at least LX for full compatibility with Shimano road levers 8sp, 9sp and XT's road-worthy 11-32 featherweight mountain climber). In fact there's an odd looking yet extraordinary application of a "compact double" with a mountain rear drive such as the one illustrated in order to eliminate the uphill chainring dance.

Not even the finest athletes can race the hills of England without such equipment. The difference has little to no effect on price, so your bike might as well be equipped to handle a wider variety of courses, thus resulting in finer enjoyment with the additional ability to "go forwards" regardless of terrain or possible exhaustion (it happens).
Spinning an easy floating sensation up hills is also a fine feature--that doesn't cost anything extra.

The least weird looking application of advanced gearing goes on a bike with a road triple, 9 speeds on rear, and Ultegra's famous 12-27 cassette. This is about $70 aftermarket and is plug-n-play simple. Sometimes advanced gearing is available at no cost, although usually involving one of Sram's featherweight 8 speed cassettes (when there's no extra cost).

Modern "size" caveats include not listing the effects of tire clearance, having every other size medium bike a 54 or 56 and totally at random, having every other size large bike a 56, 57 or 58, and totally at random, regardless of brand or model and varying within brands--by each and every model.

Another caveat is that the old school idea of using stand-over height to judge the bike is now totally wrong. That will result in an exhausting large heavy thing that is slow to sprint, slow to climb and won't keep up. Professional athletes keep one of these around because the intense added challenge results in rapid gains of strength. My trainer is this way (through foul luck) and it certainly does work for strength building--gains on every single ride, despite its unpleasant nature (putting the lie to a premium brand). This is now the easiest way to buy a trainer for harsh exercise and the worst way to get a "good" bike for enjoyment.

Because of the rapidly increasing length of top tubes throughout the varying bike sizes, buying a larger bike for the purposes of an easier reach will backfire badly. The handlebars of the larger bike are actually now a much farther reach.


Your test drives will quickly determine the bike for you, and there's no other way to do it right.

The good bike will make you smile when you ride it. It will seem faster than the other selections because it will have optimal ergonomics for your body. It will allow you to straighten your back or not at your choice/whim.

The good bike is the one that you have test ridden five times so far, compared others to it, and now absolutely refuse to leave it at the store.

It really is that easy, or that difficult, depending on your approach.

Answer 2

Like a previous answer said, go to a local shop and let them know your price limit. To a certain point, the more you can spend the better.

There is no such thing as a bike that "sucks" compared to others on the same price range. The only real difference between makers is in the frame, as most component specs are very similar at a given price point. What's more important than brand name is that the bike fits you correctly, and you'll need a shop to help with that.

Trek has a good all-around bike, whereas with a Cannondale you will get lower end parts in exchange for a handmade frame. Manufacturers have to meet their costs ceiling, too, and the most common ways for them to do so is by using house brand parts, no-name brakes and inexpensive wheelsets.

If you can get a road bike under $1000 with FULL Shimano 105 or Campagnolo Mirage (should be easy this time of year), chances are it'll suit your needs just fine.

Answer 3

That's a tough price range. Most of the bikes there will have decent parts, but most of them will have stiff-riding aluminum frames. Most of the smooth-riding steel bikes are about $1,300 and up. Titanium's even more. Carbon (which isn't always smooth-riding) is also pretty pricey.

The Lemond Sarthe is a great steel bike, and Bianchi is still doing a few. If I were you, I'd scrape up a few extra bucks and look into something like that.

Answer 4

I'm not going to recommend a brand or model to you, rather I'm going to tell you to go to a respected bike dealer in your area and get fitted for a bike in your price range. I would be upfront with the sales people; tell them what your price threshold is. A good salesman or woman will ask you what kind of riding you're going to do. Do you what to use this bike for any kind of racing? Will you use it as a commuter bike? Will you use it for cross training purposes? They will take some time to fit you to the most appropriate bike and ensure the proper saddle height, handlebar placement, etc. Do no waste your money at Wal-Mart or any other mass-market retailer. Go to at least one bike shop and check out their selection and test ride some bikes. I would also recommend you go to the library and look at some past issues of Bicycling Magazine for reviews of various brands and models of bikes, or visit their web site. Good luck in your search and happy riding!

Answer 5

Trek sucks Balls, especially the Trek 1000, buy a few years old Orbea or Bianchi, and then you'll be riding like a pro!

DC

Answer 6

check out Trek, KHS, and Specialized. get acquainted with a reputable local bike shop...

Answer 7

I would look at Marin Bikes

http://www.marinbikes.com/

I own the '05 Larkspur, which is a Street - City bike. It is a great bike!

Answer 8

Trek 1000!!!!!!!!