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Battery = Good
Bat size- 650CCA
Avail Amps - 744CCA
% Rated Capacity - 114%
Battery Temp - 70 F
Initial Volts - 12.70
Final Volts - 12.48
Impedance 4.29

Starter Passed
Cranking Volts Normal
Cranking Voltage
Initial - 12.48
Average - 11.68
Minimum - 11.23

Alternator - Passed
Idle results
Voltage 14.05
Ripple P-P -93

Currant - 47
Ripple P-P - 23

High RPM Results

Voltage 13.48
Ripple P-P - 23

Current - 54
Ripple P-P - 18

WTF

I give up I am goign to just wait until it dies... either way it will cost the same to fix. Most likely its a short or the meter is reeding incorrectly

Unless there are any other ideas

2006-08-04 07:19:02 · 4 answers · asked by xxkittenluvxx143 3 in Cars & Transportation Car Makes Ford

4 answers

You didn't say when it killed the battery:

What makes you so sure the a/c is what is killing the vehicle? After the key is turned off all electrical power is supposed to die to the a/c system.

You've got a draw, perform a draw test. Hook a amp meter in series (that is between) the negative cable and negative battery post.. After 1 hour the reading should be .005 or less on a digital multimeter .. anything higher requires removal of the fuses one by one to see where the draw is. when the draw goes below what I said, that circuit is the one with the problem.

The wiring on them things were so-so to start with but if you have an aftermarket amp or the factory amp, they are known for drawing down a battery.. also any dome, hood, glove box or a high draw item in the cigar lighter.


But also check that alternator and make sure it's rocking with proper amperage which is 80-90 amps peak.


I went and found your other post.. the a/c is drawing from the battery when a/c is on and car running .. with headlights on at idle that will happen on all cars if blower is on high and a/c kicking.. alternators produce best above 1500 rpm so something drawn at idle should charge it while driving.... and you can name a car and it will do it unless it was built with an oversized alternator (like Police cars for example)

You talked about in another about the belts squealing.. well guess what, loss of grip means alternator ain't charging full force and can cause same problems.

Real worried, stop messing with the zone and go to a real alternator shop who can test it for you

2006-08-04 17:45:21 · answer #1 · answered by gearbox 7 · 0 0

You need a heavy duty alternator of a minimum output of 120amps.
If this doesn't resolve the problem start checking for dainage from elctrical opens or shorts elsewhere.
[A pain in the butt problem]
You might want to start with a battery of at least 950, tho, this isn't probaly the problem but its the cheapest and easiest way to start.
Also
Go online and check the 'Chiltons' for troubleshootin' Chilton has NEVR failed me

2006-08-04 08:33:48 · answer #2 · answered by Gay BYE-BYE-GUY 2 · 0 0

Yea.. i assume that defines me.. nicely..it is what i say to virtually anybody...while they attempt to help me... " i don't want help or favors from everyone... reason if I win, it is going to likely be my victory And if I lose, it is going to likely be my defeat..!!! and you adult males isn't area of it.!!! " yet.. I won't say i'm proud inspite of the incontrovertible fact that !!! Coz i'm not... Infact I help others...!! it is in basic terms that I wanna do each and everything on my own in my way..!! and that i do in comparison to while human beings intervene.!! i assume that solutions your question..!! ;)

2016-11-03 21:31:01 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

YOU DO NOT NEED A BIGGER ALT. OR BATTERY YOU COULD BE A LITTLE LOW ON WATER IN YOUR BATTERY TAKE THE CABLES OFF AND CLEAN THEM GOOD IT IS NORMAL THE A/C WILL PUT A SMALL DRAIN ON THE BATTERY YOU WILL BE O.K DONT SPEND MONEY YOU DONT NEED TO

2006-08-04 13:08:57 · answer #4 · answered by firefightingexpert 5 · 0 0

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