my dog is pregnant wat kind of things i need 4 the pupies????

Answer 1

DIET

The expectant mother will gradually require increasing amounts of food to nourish her developing litter. A food approved for growth (i.e. a puppy food) will certainly be necessary during the nursing period and pregnancy may be a good time to transition into this new diet.

About three weeks into the pregnancy, she may experience a little nausea and appetite loss similar to morning sickness. This should resolve within a week, so if an upset stomach or loss of appetite lasts longer than that or is accompanied by listlessness, something more serious is going on and the vet should be notified.

Calcium supplementation may be tempting but is not a good idea. As long as the expectant mother is on a quality diet, supplementation is unnecessary. Further, supplementation can suppress her natural calcium releasing hormones so that when she really needs extra calcium during nursing, she will not have the proper hormone balance to get it. This can create a very dangerous situation which could easily be avoided by avoiding supplementation of calcium.

AT AROUND 30 DAYS OF PREGNANCY,
BRING THE FEMALE DOG TO THE VET
FOR A WELLNESS CHECK UP AND TO CONFIRM
THE PREGNANCY WITH A SIMPLE BLOOD TEST.

EXERCISE

Regular walking helps the expectant mother keep up her strength but intensive training, showing, or even obedience school is probably too stressful. Obesity is a dangerous problem for pregnant dogs and serious blood sugar regulation problems can put the litter at risk. Still, pregnancy is not the time for a weight loss program. Your vet will help guide you regarding the optimal nutrition plan for your individual dog.

During the final 3 weeks of pregnancy, the mother dog should be completely isolated from other dogs at home (see below). This means no walks in public during this stage of pregnancy.

VACCINATION

A female dog should not be vaccinated during pregnancy; there are sera in the vaccine which could be harmful to the developing fetus. Ideally, the female should be vaccinated just prior to breeding. She will be passing on her immunity to her pups in the first milk she produces (special milk called “colostrum”) so we want her antibody levels to be at their peak yet we want to avoid vaccination during pregnancy.

PARASITE CONTROL

If the expectant mother uses a heartworm preventive product normally, she may continue to do so during pregnancy. All heartworm products available are approved for use in pregnancy and lactation.

Flea control is important during pregnancy though is more important after the puppies are born. It is important to use a safe product during pregnancy. There are two specifically approved products for this use:

Capstar

Revolution
Roundworms and Hookworms can both be transmitted from the pregnant mother dog to her unborn puppies. This is a nuisance as one usually ends up with both an infected mother and infected puppies but fortunately there is a deworming protocol to control this infection. If you have concerns about internal parasites for the puppies, speak to your vet about worm control. Daily medication will be needed but it is possible for worm-free puppies to be born.

ISOLATION OF THE MOTHER TO PREVENT HERPES INFECTION

Canine Herpesvirus infection causes a minor cold in adult dogs but can cause abortion in pregnancy as well as death in newborn puppies. The best way to prevent infection is to isolate the mother dog completely during the 3 weeks prior to delivery and the 3 weeks after delivery. This means absolutely no contact with other dogs.

JUST PRIOR TO ISOLATION, IT IS A GOOD IDEA
FOR THE EXPECTANT MOTHER TO HAVE
A RADIOGRAPH OF HER BELLY TO COUNT PUPPIES.

KNOWING HOW MANY PUPPIES TO EXPECT
WILL TELL YOU WHEN SHE IS FINISHED DELIVERING.

LABOR AND COMPLICATIONS OF DELIVERY

There is always the possibility of a problem with delivery and you will need to be able to recognize labor when it is occurring, what is normal and what is a sign you need to see the vet for assistance.

PRENATAL CARE

Preparing for your dog's labor and puppy care can be both exciting and fun; still, awareness of potential problems is of paramount importance. It is a good idea to keep track of your dog's breeding date so as to know when to expect what.

After about 35 days of pregnancy, the mother's caloric requirements will begin to increase. In general, she should require about twice as much food as usual whereas, when she begins nursing, she will need three times as much food. The best nutritional plan is to buy a dog food approved for growth and feed according to the package; such diets are balanced and require no supplementation plus they typically have the extra Calories needed by the pregnant or nursing mother. Exercise of the pregnant mother need not be restricted until after the first 4-6 weeks of pregnancy. Do not supplement calcium as this can cause metabolic imbalances; also, excess vitamins may be harmful to the puppies.

Some time around the 45th day, your dog should be examined by a veterinarian. At this time, the skeletons of the unborn pups will have mineralized and are thus visible on a radiograph. Your dog's abdomen should be x-rayed so that you know how many pups to expect. Ultrasound may be used to confirm pregnancy much earlier (after 25 days, the embryonic heart may be seen beating) but it is more difficult to count the number of pups using this method. A general pregnancy blood test can be performed around day 35 just to confirm whether or not she is pregnant but neither this nor ultrasound will tell you how many puppies to expect; only radiographs can do that.

A comfortable area should be set aside for whelping and raising the puppies. The mother should feel at home here and should be able to come and go as she likes while the puppies must remain confined.

It is important that the mother dog be isolated from all other dogs for three weeks prior to labor through 3 weeks after delivery to prevent Herpes infection. Herpes is spread by sniffing and licking between two dogs. Adult dogs rarely have any symptoms but the newborn or unborn puppies generally die.

The gestation period of the dog is considered to be 63 days though this is not written in stone and a normal range might be 58-68 days.

IMPENDING LABOR

When your dog's due date is approaching, you should begin monitoring her rectal temperature. When her temperature drops below 100o F (normal canine temperature is 101-102o F), labor may be expected within 24 hours.

THE FIRST STAGE OF LABOR

During this stage, uterine contractions begin. The mother will appear very restless and may pace, dig, shiver, pant, or even vomit. This is all normal and all an owner can do is see that the mother has water available should she want it. This stage of labor is very long, lasting 6-12 hours and culminates with full dilation of the cervix in preparation to expel a puppy.

THE SECOND AND THIRD STAGES OF LABOR

The second stage is the "hard labor" stage in which the puppy is expelled. The third stage refers to the expulsion of the placenta and afterbirth. Each pup may not be followed by afterbirth; the mother may pass two pups and then two placentas. This is normal.

Puppies are born covered in membranes which must be cleaned away or the pup will suffocate. The mother will bite and lick the membranes away. Allow her a minute or two after birth to do this; if she does not do it, then you must clean the pup for her. Simply remove the slippery covering and rub the puppy with a clean towel. The umbilical cord may be tied in a knot about one inch from the pup and cut with scissors on the far side of the knot.

Expect one pup every 45-60 minutes with 10-30 minutes of hard straining. It is normal for the mothers to "take a rest" partway through delivery and she may not strain at all for up to four hours between pups. If she is seen straining hard for over one hour or if she takes longer than a four hour break, a veterinarian should be consulted.

Expect some puppies (probably half of them) to be born tail first. This is not abnormal for dogs.

CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN IF:

30-60 minutes of strong contractions occur with no puppy being produced.
Greater than four hours pass between pups and you know there are more inside.
She fails to go into labor within 24 hours of her temperature drop.
She is in obvious extreme pain.
Greater than 70 days of gestation have passed.
It is normal for the mother to spike a fever in the 24-48 hours following birth. This fever should not be accompanied by clinical signs of illness.

Normal vaginal discharge after parturition should be odorless and may be green, dark red-brown or bloody and may persist in small amounts for up to 8 weeks.

PROBLEMS TO WATCH FOR...

METRITIS (INFLAMMATION OF THE UTERUS)

Signs of this condition are as follows:

fever
foul-smelling vaginal discharge
listlessness
loss of appetite
no interest in the puppies
decreased milk production
If these signs are noted, usually in the first day or two postpartum, a veterinarian should be consulted. Your dog may have retained a placenta or have suffered some trauma during delivery. Animals who have required assistance with delivery are often predisposed to metritis.

ECLAMPSIA

This condition results when the mother has trouble supporting the calcium demand of lactation. Calcium supplementation predisposes a mother dog to this condition. Usually affected animals are small dogs. They demonstrate:

nervousness and restlessness
no interest in the pups
stiff, painful gait
This progresses to:

muscle spasms
inability to stand
fever
seizures
This condition generally occurs in the first three weeks of lactation and a veterinarian should be consulted immediately.

MASTITIS (INFLAMMATION OF THE BREASTS)

Normal nursing glands are soft and enlarged. Diseased glands are red, hard, and painful. In general, the mother does not act sick; the disease is confined to the mammary tissue. The mother may be sore and discourage the pups from nursing; however, it is important to keep the pups nursing the affected glands. This is not harmful to the puppies and helps flush out the infected material. Hot packing may be helpful.

Most dogs are excellent mothers and problems are few. The basic rule is to seek veterinary care if she seems to feel sick of if she ceases to care for her young. Puppies nurse until they are about six weeks old and then may be fully separated from their mother. A good age for adoption to a new home is 8 weeks or later.

Answer 2

First you will need a "whelping box" you can put in your kitchen if you want. Take 2 - 6in wide and 6ft long boards, and 2- 6in wide and 4ft long boards and make a box that the mom dog can get in and out of when she wants to be with the puppies. Line this box with news paper, as you will be changing it often. The mother dog will provide all the pups need until they are about 6 weeks old. Then you will need a puppy chow that you can mix with a little water, and a large round shallow dish (found at most good pet stores) so that you can feed all the puppies out of the same dish, unless your mom gives birth to more than 6, then get 2 of the dishes and feed that way.

Put an add in the paper to find new owners for your pups when they are 7 weeks old.

Good Luck./.... NOW AFTER ALL OF THIS, GO AND GET YOUR FEMALE DOG SPAYED.

Answer 3

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Answer 4

a box that mom can get into, but puppies can't. put old towels or an old blanket in the box. after mom has the pups and she has cleaned them, gently remove the pups and replace the dirty towels with clean ones. when the pups start moving around alot, after their eyes open, put mom and pups in a place were they will be safe to roam around. when the pups are 4 or 5 weeks old start them on puppy food. make sure mom is somewhere else, so she won't eat their food.little by little mom will leave them alone for longer periods of time. at 6 to 8 weeks the pups will be ready for their new homes.

Answer 5

A NICE CLOSET OR BOX THAT YOU CAN MONTIOR TO MAKE SURE THE PUPPIES DELIVERING NICE AND TELOPHONE AND A VET'S# NERBY IN CASE OF EMERGENCY A CLOTH TO RUB THE PUPPIES AND A EAR DROPER

WHEN THE PUPPIES ARE DELIVERED YOU WANT TO MAKE THE PUPPIES CRY BY RUBBING THEM AND IF A PUPPY DOESN'T CRY YOU SHOULD TKEA IT FRIMLEY (NOT TO HARD) ABOVE YOUR HEAD AND THEN BRING IT DOWN DON'T DO IT SOFTLEY IF THE PUPPY DOESN'T START BREATHING THEN YOU GOT A DEAD PUPPY (A NON-BREATHEING PUPPY IS NOT A REASON TO CALL THE VET ONLY IF THE MOMMA DOG IS HAVING PROBLEMS)

Answer 6

I think Confusedbuth has it covered. It is a shame that people put forth no effoer before a breeding. They let it happen and then worry about what they need to know later.
Backyard breeders suck.

Answer 7

I would contact the vet for this, especially if you have never dealt with this before. There is a lot to know and a professional should be able to assist you with this.