Temperature
Under natural conditions, the most important factor in successful incubation is heat. As long as the egg gets enough of it and is not permitted to lose too much of it for too long a time, everything will be fine. This is true even though the actual temperature of the egg fluctuates drastically when the hen is off the nest. Hens that "sit tight" (those that rarely leave the nest) do not have a noticeably higher hatch rate than those that leave the nest at regular intervals. From this, it's safe to assume that eggs have evolved to be less sensitive to temperature drops than to other more unnatural circumstances..
One thing that a bird cannot do no matter how hard it may try is overheat an egg. This, of course, is possible in an incubator. Overheating is one of the things that an egg is very sensitive to and can result in eventual death. Temperatures that have been used successfully range from 98.7 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. At Voren's aviaries, we have settled on 99.3 degrees Fahrenheit..
Of course, the best temperature for you to use will depend on many different factors. The most important of these factors is humidity..
Humidity
It has been long assumed that 50-percent humidity is required for successful hatching. This is not necessarily the case. Humidities ranging between 38 and 52 percent have been used by different professionals under different circumstances. All have proven successful in the situations used. An egg should undergo a specific percentage of weight loss during the incubation period. This weight loss is achieved by the evaporation of water through the pores of the shell..
Since increasing the incubation temperature can shorten the time period in which it takes a chick to hatch, there is less time for the required water loss to take place. If using these higher temperatures, the lower humidities should be used to allow sufficient water loss during the shortened time period. Conversely, if lower temperatures are used, the chick will take longer to hatch, and higher humidities should be used in order to keep too much evaporation from taking place..
I have experimented with different humidities and found that under the same environmental circumstances, large eggs do better at lower humidities (38 to 45 percent), and smaller eggs do better at the higher range (46 to 52 percent). In fact, it is now standard procedure for me to incubate all macaw and Amazon eggs at between 38 and 42 percent humidity. Conure eggs at these humidity levels experience too much water loss and die, or hatch in a dehydrated state. For conures, we use a humidity level of 48 to 52 percent. I believe this is a function of eggshell calcification differences rather than a difference in the amount of water held in large eggs versus small eggs. In my aviaries, the larger birds generally produce eggs that are harder and thicker-shelled than the conures'. Logic tells one that an egg with a thicker and denser shell would require a lower humidity level in order to incur the same water loss as a thinner or less dense-shelled egg..
Differences in diets and individual metabolisms are the major reasons that there are so many different reports as to the ideal humidity to use in a specific case. One must not lose sight of the fact that a bird can sit on an egg under almost any reasonable humidity and hatch it regardless of how marginally over or under calcified it might be. This tells me there are major flaws in our basic incubation philosophies..
Turning
The next most important aspect of incubation is turning the eggs. The number of times per day that a parrot egg should be turned in the incubator is still a subject of debate. Poultry research supports the theory that eggs should be turned between 12 and 24 times a day. However, some people, myself included, think that between four and eight times per day is sufficient..
Under my incubation conditions, I noticed a marked difference in development when the incubator was set to turn the eggs only six times a day instead of 12 times. The eggs developed more evenly. That is to say that the veins that grow out from the embryo covered a larger area and reached around to the "underside" of the egg much earlier in the incubation process than those turned every two hours. There was no difference in incubation time, but hatchability was increased..
Vibration
Vibration is probably the most unconsidered variable that is responsible for mortality in the shell. It also explains why under "exactly" the same conditions, two different people can have completely different results using the same model incubator..
Minor differences in mounting positions, as well as the age and type of fan motors used, can have a great effect on the amount of vibration that is transferred from your incubator to your eggs. Eggs in their natural state are incubated in a vibration-free environment. It stands to reason that even the slightest bit of vibration can affect the development of those tiny veins in a negative way. The question is, how much can they stand before vibration proves lethal?.
Hatching
The first sign that hatching is around the corner is when you see the egg "draw down." This is when the air space in the egg enlarges. It will change from its normal round appearance to elliptical. One side of this now-elliptical air cell will extend down one side of the inside of the shell. The other side remains up near the top of the egg where it has always been--hence, the elliptical appearance. At this point, many aviculturists move the eggs into a hatcher. Others prefer to wait until the first "pip mark" appears on the egg..
The "hatcher" is an incubator with high humidity and no turning mechanism. The high humidity is to make it easier for the chick to hatch. Since the incubation process is complete, the high humidity (the higher the better) does not interfere with evaporation but does make it less likely for the internal membrane to stick to the hatching chick. Chicks that get stuck to the membrane must be assisted out of the shell, or they will die trying to get out. Normal time lapse between major draw down and hatching is usually about three days..
FROM:http://www.voren.com/94-05-03.htm
Small Incubator
http://mcmurrayhatchery.com/product/mini_dome_incubator.html
http://mcmurrayhatchery.com/product/three_egg_full_auto_incubator.html
http://mcmurrayhatchery.com/product/full_view_picture_window_incubator.html
2006-08-07 02:53:53
·
answer #1
·
answered by iceni 7
·
0⤊
0⤋
Ok some of the answers I've read in this question are just plain... STUPID!!!
Here's some advice that you may be looking for.
First off does your parrot have a nest box in the cage? if not you'd better go out and buy one.
Second, if she doesn't know how to hatch them try buying an incubator for the eggs.
and
Third if you want the BEST advice trying asking a vet or a parrot breeder on what to do about your problem.
2006-07-31 06:43:58
·
answer #2
·
answered by Checkers- the -Wolf 1
·
0⤊
0⤋
After 2 months they are not going to hatch. The babies died long ago or the eggs were not fertile.
If this it was a first time mama, she probably will get the hang of it next time. The "maternal instinct" needs a little time sometimes.
You need to get a book. Parrot breeding is too long and involved to type here. Books have to be fact checked while any idiot can type anything on the internet.
2006-07-30 19:35:41
·
answer #3
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
dress like a parrot and sit on the eggs and let the parrot see you doing this, maybe it will get a hint. if not buy a incubator for hatching eggs and start putting them in there right after they are laid if not they will not be any good.
2006-07-30 23:16:24
·
answer #4
·
answered by ronald r 3
·
0⤊
0⤋
Place eggs in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring water to a boil and immediately remove from heat. Cover and let eggs stand in hot water for 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from hot water.
Roll on kitchen worktop, remove shell, Voila! A Parrot!
2006-07-30 21:56:34
·
answer #5
·
answered by Katey 3
·
0⤊
0⤋
Do you have a nesting box for her? She won't sit on the eggs in the bottom of the cage, where everyone can see her. She needs a nesting box and her cage needs to be in a nice, quiet room so she feels safe.
You might want to look into the care of baby birds, too, if you haven't already. They have to be hand-fed quite frequently if you want them to be nice and people-friendly. Plus it's a great way to bond with baby birdies.
2006-07-30 20:30:56
·
answer #6
·
answered by Fluxity 1
·
0⤊
0⤋
if parrot dont know how to hacth,remove the egg from the cage and place ink bottle of any heavy object for warming
2006-08-06 02:15:12
·
answer #7
·
answered by neetha 2
·
0⤊
0⤋
Simmer in boiling water for ywo minuites.Taste better with pepper.
2006-07-30 19:36:18
·
answer #8
·
answered by Firefly 4
·
0⤊
0⤋