Boxer Puppy HELP!!!!?

Question

We just bought a new Boxer Puppy-female. We love her to death but her training isn't going so great. She just turned 2 months old on the 19th so I know she is young...but very smart. We are having problems with her thinking that we are her chew toys. I have tons of toys for her and when she bites me I tell her no and give her a toy, tried the flicking of the nose--she thinks I am playing with her and does the biting more, and tried the thumb under her toungue thing........nothing is working. ANY help with this problem and any other training for Boxers I would so appreciate!!!

Answer 1

Boxers are "mouthy" and as puppies definitely so. You're trying all the right things, but the flicking the nose thing will probably only make her more inclined to bite. She doesn't mean to hurt, but dogs chew on each other when they play, so she's just treating you like she would another dog.

Are you using a deep, firm voice and saying "NO!" or the disapproval noise? I use a deep, harsh noise. You can't use a high pitched voice, as they think you're playing. It has to be really deep, and mean sounding. It's going to take awhile, and you have to be consistent...and no tug of war...that teaches them aggression. You can always put her in a crate when she bites, as a time out...5-10 minutes. Then let her out, and when she bites, say "NO" and put her back in the crate. She'll learn that biting gets her removed from the fun, and hopefully that'll be enough.

My shepherd mix was mouthy and I tried all the standard tactics. I went for the extreme when the standard stuff didn't work. I would put tabasco on my arm and put it down for him to chew. All it taught him was to sniff before biting. At about 6 months, I had enough..and the next time he bit me, I pinned him to the floor and bit his ear, hard enough to make him yip. He stopped biting after that.

Answer 2

You have to communicate with the puppy in dog language. As stated before you should say no in a deep voice. They hear this as a deep growl. The key is being dominant and being the top dog. Another thing to do is gripping the scruff of the neck and looking them in the eyes while you're saying no. You should continue to look them in the eyes until they look away. This is a sign of them submitting. Once they submit you should not play with them again until another play session. Another way to show dominance is to hold them down while saying no. This is a very dominant and most people have seen a dominant dog holding a dog down while growling. The submissive dog usually lays there and doesn't move at all. Good luck!

Answer 3

Many people answered that inflicting pain will help but it will NOT. First of all she's a puppy and that's what puppies will do. To make her realize that it's not okay to bite, everytime she does say "OW" really loud (high pitched would help too) and leave the room for a couple minutes. Since she is a larger breed I would definintely recommend obedience training so she knows that you are the boss.

Answer 4

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As a dog trainer friend of mine told me, this only works if you do it until it yips or cries. You cannot let go until she cries out and struggles then freezes so you know she gives up the control. Same with jumping up on you, place your thumb inside/between the foot pads and squeeze until she cries out, then release. Continue doing this and do it for longer amounts of time until she cries out as soon as you try squeezing them. Always say NO BITE or DOWN for the appropriate correction and say it sternly.

Answer 5

Start by calling the animal shelters in your city and cities close to you. Did you know one in every four dog in an animal shelter is pure bred? Also, google Boxer Rescue *your city* and see if there is a rescue organization near you that specializes in Boxers. That way you get the dog you want AND you rescue a dog in need of a good home. If none of that works, be very careful when going through a breeder as unfortunately there are more bad ones than good. A good breeder is not going to be advertised in the paper, on craigs list and are hard to find one the internet in general. What to look for in a good breeder is that they aren't just out to make money. They are breeding to preserve and improve the quality of that particular breed. They should ask you as many questions as you ask them because they want their dog to go to a loving and responsible owner. Far too often people will get a puppy from a back yard breeder or a puppy mill unknowingly because they didn't know to ask the right questions. Dogs from puppy mills, back yard breeders and disreputable breeders will have health problems and behavioral problems due to inbreeding, poor living conditions, improper genetic testing and lack of proper socialization. Someones a good person will have good intentions but still be a poor breeder through ignorance and not knowing what goes into breeding a dog. It certainly is more than just putting two dogs in one room to mate. *A good breeder will ALWAYS let you tour their facility and see all parts of it. They will let you meet the mother, father, brothers, sisters and any other dogs they have. They should have nothing to hide. *A good breeder will keep their animals as indoor pets like they were part of the family. There will be no back shed or pen outside they live in. *The area will be clean and well maintained, they will encourage you to spend time with the puppy and it's parents. *They will only breed one type of dog and are knowledgeable about the breeds standard. *They will have a strong relationship with their vet and show you medical records of all the puppies vet visits AS WELL AS it's parents. *They will be knowledgeable on all the potential genetic problems inherent in the breed (every breed has specific genetic predispositions) and be able to SHOW YOU with documentation that the puppies parents AND grandparents have been tested to ensure they are free of these genetic problems. If the breeder isn't knowledge able on this subject, has not tested, or tries to say they don't have any 'papers' then walk away immediately. If they try to say 'they've been checked by a vet' that is not enough, they need specific testing do not let someone tries to gloss over this. Anyone who is a reputable breeder and cares about the breed will have documentation at the ready, no excuses period. Also, just because a dog is AKC, CKC or whatever registered/certified it does not mean testing has been done. *They will have references for other families that have purchased their puppies *They will be feeding them "ultra-premium and premium" brand pet foods. (No Iams, Science Diet, Kibbles and Bits, Alpo etc) *They might not have puppies readily on hand, but a list for the next littler. This shows they aren't just pumping puppies out like a factory. (this is a plus but not always the case depending on how many puppies the ***** had) *They should be actively involved in local, State and national clubs that specialize in the breed. *They should give you a written health guarantee and allow you enough time to read it. They should also not require you to see a specific vet. In additional to all of that, you'll want a breeder that requires things from you as well. Such as: *Explain why you want a dog *Explain who will be caring for it/responsible for it, who will be attending training classes with it, spending most of their time with it. *What rules you will have for the dog *Provide a vet reference that you'll be using *Sign a contract that you will spay/neuter your pup unless you are going to actively show him/her. *Sign a contract stating that if you can't keep the dog at ANY point in it's life you will return it to them. This may seem like a lot, but if you look at the over all picture it's really very little. If the person you go to get your dog from does not meet these requirements (ESPECIALLY the medical testing of it's parents and knowledge of it's hereditary diseases, have contracts for you to neuter your pet unless you show, contracts to take the pup back as well as the written health guanrantee) then walk away and find another breeder. You don't want to spend hundreds (sometimes even thousands) of dollars on a dog that is ill. It will also cost you more in the long run in vet bills. It's for you, your dog and the rest of your family that you do this. You can find a reputable breeder by contacting local breed clubs, asking your vet and attending dog shows.

Answer 6

Put your hands near her mouth and when she tries to bite you grab her around the muzzle and hold it shut and say in a angry tone of voice NO BITE. Keep doing this and in ashort time she will stop biting you. You must give the correction the very second she tries to bite. Everyone in our family must do this same correction

Answer 7

Put some small pepples in a soda can and every time she does what you DON"T want her to do, shake the can of pepples. It can be very loud and they have sensitive hearing. Every time she does wrong and you shake the can, she'll get the picture because she doesn't like the loud noise.

Answer 8

you have to make it clear that biting is NOT an acceptable form of playing... if she nips at you, make a big show. tell her it hurts. cry. then leave. come back a few minutes later and play again.. just keep doing this. if she plays good then praise her.. but if she nips, act injured by her and leave. she will get the hint.

Answer 9

in my experience, the best way to train a dog is to act like one. i'm not crazy i promise. if this pup were w/ its mother, and the pup bit mom, mom would take its snout in her mouth, growl and give it a shake. you should do the same (use ur hand not ur mouth) good luck, it always worked for me.

Answer 10

I have a four month old puppy and trained him that if he bit me (playfully) i would say !OWWWW! quite loud and turn away and ignore him for two minutes or so. that way he knows that it wont get him anywhere.
good luck!