Yes, absolutely. The dog's personality is genetic - training and how you react to his behavior make some difference, but not as much as his in-born nature. Most Labs are dog-friendly, but not all Huskies. And he may have other breeds mixed in - like Chows and Terriers, which can be extremely dominant and aggressive.
Labs often turn grey at a young age, so that indicates nothing. At his age, you won't have an easy time modifying his behavior, but you should try. Even if you can't change him, it will stand you in good stead with your next dog!
A dog the size of a Lab can easily drag you into the road after another dog - and you could both be killed. If people perceive him to be a menace, you could lose your homeowner's insurance policy.
Try a Halti head collar (don't YANK on this or you could injure the dog's spine!) or Cesar Millan's Illusion collar (it keeps the collar up high behind the ears where it belongs
to give yourself a bit more leverage). Or use a sturdy leash and chain or nylon choke collar. Do NOT use a pinch (prong) collar to correct aggression! Pinch collars will cause aggression problems to worsen and could injure the dog if you need to forcibly restrain him.
http://cesarmillan.securesites.net/icollar.php
Put a handful of pennies in a two-liter bottle and carry it with you. Pay CLOSE attention to him! As soon as he STARTS staring at another dog, bop him gently on top of the head with it - that should certainly get his attention!! Don't wait until he's dragging you - correct him at the point where he is making the decision to be good or bad.
Then start really training him and convincing HIM that you're the boss. First, make sure he's getting enough exercise - hyper Labs need a thirty-minute strenuous RUN twice a day every day. A lot of aggression is pent up energy. Wear his butt out with thirty minutes of ball playing or a long run before you plan to meet another dog.
Arrange to meet someone with a calm dog outside in a neutral area. (Be very careful around smaller dogs - they would suffer a lot more damage if he bit them or whacked them with a paw.) Don't let the dogs get face to face. Immediately take a long walk side-by-side until your dog is calm and relaxed and accepting of the other one. After several weeks of walks like this and ONLY if you feel it's safe, stop and very casually introduce them on LOOSE leashes - but be ready to instantly jerk him back or bop her if he does anything aggressive. Restraining dogs on tight leashes when will almost guarantee a fight. Let them sniff each other for a few minutes, then walk again. Do this every day with as many different dogs as you can.
If he shows no improvement and still goes after other dogs, you will have to do lots of work on sit-stay and down-stay (on ONE command!) and walking without the dog pulling you. Don't hold your dog back when another dog approaches. That makes him feel tougher - like a guy in a bar who doesn't really want to fight, but with his friends holding him back, he's all mouth. As soon as he starts staring at the other dog and you see those ears alert - you know what's coming. Correct him with a quick jerk on the leash and turn in the opposite direction. He can't be barking if you're briskly walking away. Then turn back toward the other dog and do it all over and over again until he won't even LOOK at the other dog.
Prearrange a meeting on neutral ground as often as you can with people who have non-dominant dogs. Make your dog lie down and stay. He can't be posturing and aggressive if he's lying down. Just make sure the other person doesn't let their dog hassle yours when he's being good. Have a long conversation with the other owner - long enough for your dog to be completely relaxed. If he starts to get antsy, you can tap him on top of the head or nudge him in the side to distract him. It's best if YOU walk away first - if the other dog leaves first, yours may see it as an opportunity for a sneak attack.
Once he's under some control, take her to dog obedience classes. Many AKC recognized dog training clubs all over the country have advanced classes where the dogs are well behaved. The trainers generally have more knowledge and you pay less. Go to www.akc.org to find a club in your area.
You may need a professional trainer to help you with this, but let me warn you. Many of the people charging big bucks as "trainers" are not very good and may have no more experience than you do - especially with aggression problems. Ask you local vet for a recommendation. Make sure you check out references from their satisfied customers. Check with the BBB for complaints. Look for a trainer who is a member of the International Association of Canine Professionals web site at www.dogpro.org, which allows you to search for trainers in your state. Their requirements for trainers to join are very stringent. And DON'T send your dog away to be trained. It's a waste of money - you can't build a relationship with a dog that doesn't live with you.
Read some great books on training. (Try not to pick books randomly - there are a lot of bad books out there also!) These are some of my favorites and you can get them on Amazon.com
What All Good Dogs Should Know – Volhard http://www.volhard.com/
Good Owners, Great Dogs - Brian Kilcommins
Don't Shoot the Dog - Pryor
Training Your Dog: The Step by Step Method - Volhard
Dog Problems - Benjamin
Cesar's Way - Cesar Millan
Also, watch the Dog Whisperer on the National Geographic Channel. Cesar Millan is the best trainer I've ever seen on TV.
http://www.dogpsychologycenter.com/...
2006-07-17 18:23:50
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answer #1
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answered by Danger, Will Robinson! 7
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Seems like your dog got the Husky side for personality. They can be very high-strung and yes 'Type A' personality. Going white around the mouth can start as early as 5 years old, my last dog started about then as have a lot of the labs I've seen. So, it's not anything to worry about.
With regards to being the Alpha dog, yes, it starts young, very young for many as it begins from when they're in the litter. With an alpha dog, I know that down at the dog park if there's a dog with those tendencies, the 'parent' is waiting for the dog to get an earful from another dog. It is a problem though.
Regarding starting early and going up against full grown Rotties, it goes with the saying, "It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog".
Your best bet would be to speak with a trainer that specializes in aggressive dog behaviour because there is hope, and there have been many successes with this. So, don't give up hope, if you look around and ask your vet if they can recommend one might be the best place to start. Generally, I've found trainers that aren't experienced in dominant breeds to be less than helpful, you need someone used to large dominant breed dogs.
I wish you the best of luck!
2006-07-17 16:54:17
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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This isnt strange behavior for an un-neutred dog. If he's not been fixed & is 7, he'd have had an agression problem for a while.
Have you tried obedience classes? If that doesnt work, you could always shell out the bucks for a special trainer. If he's not fixed, get him neutered. Or in extreme cases, your vet can suggest medication. I actually have a cat exactly like your dog that my vet put on valium. I thought it was crazy, but its helped lots.
Good luck!
2006-07-17 16:50:11
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answer #3
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answered by emvannattan 3
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Having a trained dog isn’t the same as having a balanced dog, but if your dog knows a few basic commands, it can be helpful when tackling problem behaviors — existing ones or those that may develop in the future. Learn here https://tr.im/kZnns
So where do you start with dog obedience training? You could take a class, but it’s not necessary; you can do it yourself. In fact, with the right attitude, it can be fun for both you and your dog!
Step 1 : Sit
This is one of the easiest dog obedience commands to teach, so it’s a good one to start with.
• Hold a treat close to your dog’s nose.
• Move your hand up, allowing his head to follow the treat and causing his bottom to lower.
• Once he’s in sitting position, say “Sit,” give him the treat, and share affection.
Repeat this sequence a few times every day until your dog has it mastered. Then ask your dog to sit before mealtime, when leaving for walks, and during other situations where you’d like him calm and seated.
Step 2 : Come
This command can help keep a dog out of trouble, bringing him back to you if you lose grip on the leash or accidentally leave the front door open.
• Put a leash and collar on your dog.
• Go down to his level and say, “Come,” while gently pulling on the leash.
• When he gets to you, reward him with affection and a treat.
Once he’s mastered it with the leash, remove it — and practice the command in a safe, enclosed area.
Step 3 : Down
This can be one of the more difficult commands in dog obedience training. Why? Because the position is a submissive posture. You can help by keeping training positive and relaxed, particularly with fearful or anxious dogs.
• Find a particularly good smelling treat, and hold it in your closed fist.
• Hold your hand up to your dog’s snout. When he sniffs it, move your hand to the floor, so he follows.
• Then slide your hand along the ground in front of him to encourage his body to follow his head.
• Once he’s in the down position, say “Down,” give him the treat, and share affection.
Repeat it every day. If your dog tries to sit up or lunges toward your hand, say “No” and take your hand away. Don’t push him into a down position, and encourage every step your dog takes toward the right position. After all, he’s working hard to figure it out!
2016-07-19 20:42:48
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answer #4
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answered by Millar 3
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Yes, some dogs are very high strung. They do not make good pets. Ask the vet if your dog should be on anti anxiety meds.
2006-07-17 16:51:05
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answer #5
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answered by notyou311 7
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