10 ways to love your pet
Wallet, cell phone, insurance cards, plastic toothpick, poop bag, leash, and tennis ball: the contents of a dog owner's purse.
It seems that pets are playing an ever more important role in the lives of people today, whether it be service dogs, farmhands, or simply family companions. There are many ways that one can pay tribute to the furry four-leggeds that invade our purses, our homes, and our hearts. Here are ten ways that owners can help enrich the lives of their pets:
1) Exercise. Although it probably comes as no surprise, exercise is one of the most important things that we can give to our pets. Exercise has the same health and mental benefits for animals as it does for humans. It can help reduce the risk of arthritis, joint disease, and diabetes while also giving your pet an outlet for his excess energy.
2) Discipline by positive reinforcement. Dogs who are disciplined are better behaved and are allowed greater freedoms than those who are undisciplined. Well-behaving dogs are more easily brought out of the house, left out of crates, and generally cause less stress to their owners.
3) Regular visits to the veterinarian. Health is at the core of everything we and our pets do. If we don't feel well, it is difficult to be our best. Regular visits to the veterinarian will, at the very least, provide your dog with their yearly vaccinations. These vaccinations help make it safe for your pet to be around other pets as well as help prevent diseases that could otherwise be very serious to you or your pet's health. Regular physical exams can also help to catch any health problems before they are out of control.
4) Good nutrition. Contrary to many humans' belief, pizza crusts and table scraps don't offer pets adequate nutrition. There are many commercial pet foods that offer options for well-balanced, moderate-cost, high-quality diets for our pets. Your local veterinarian can provide some guidance in this area.
5) Enrichment. Many animals suffer from pure boredom. And while this may not seem like the biggest problem in the world it can manifest itself in problematic behaviors such as chewing, house destruction, and self-mutilation. Many animals lacking a mental challenge may seek out their own challenges, like destroying the garbage. For example, the Kong company manufactures toys that provide this type of mental challenge. These products allow owners to hide treats inside a toy and the dog or cat will spend hours trying to figure out how to get it out.
6) Grooming. Not only can regular grooming make for a more pleasant smelling dog or cat, grooming can help to prevent health problems. Matting of the hair can cause discomfort and provide a breeding ground for skin infections. Not to mention that all that extra hair makes for a very hot pet in the summer time. Regular grooming can also help owners detect problems before they get out of hand, such as ticks or fleas. Regular ear cleanings and clipping can help prevent ear infections.
7) Reassurance and positive reinforcement. It is easy to yell and scream when your pet gets into mischief, but it's equally as easy to overlook their positive behaviors. Like humans, our furry friends enjoy being commended for doing the right thing, whether it's a moment of obedience or simply just being a good pet.
8) Socialization. By allowing your pet to be exposed to many different things you are creating a well-rounded pet that is able to relax and behave in most situations. Practicing simple things at home, such as touching his paws, opening his mouth, and touching his ears, will make routine events, such as nail clipping or medicine administration, easier on your pet and others around him. Regular exposure to other animals allows your pet to learn how to not only have good manners around people, but it teaches them to have good manners with other dogs as well. Human beings greet each other in a certain way such as a hug or a hand shake. Pets also greet each other in a specific way, and they are taught proper pet manners from being exposed to other pets. This socialization will allow you to bring your pet more places and allow him to enjoy himself in parks and other public places.
9) Time. Time is a valued commodity these days, but often ten minutes of brushing your pet can provide an excellent bonding routine. It helps take care of some grooming needs, helps socialize your pet, and allows you to spend one-on-one time with your animal. Another quick solution is a 5-10 minute game of catch with your dog or cat. Again, you are spending time with your pet and taking care of their need for exercise as well.
10) Love. The most important thing that you can give your pet-and probably already do-is love. However, it's important to remember that providing love does not always mean providing treats. Oftentimes, when one feels as if their pet is being neglected, it's easy to offer a treats to compensate for that which is lacking. Like humans, the rate of obese animals is increasing ever quickly, and an obese animal is neither good for the animal or the owner.
In general, there is no one good way to make a happy pet. Some pets need one thing more than another, but if you stick to some general guidelines you can be sure that your pet will know how much you love them.
2006-07-16 18:23:55
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answer #9
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answered by aussie 6
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Dachshund Breed Standard
Hound Group
General Appearance
Low to ground, long in body and short of leg with robust muscular development, the skin is elastic and pliable without excessive wrinkling. Appearing neither crippled, awkward, nor cramped in his capacity for movement, the Dachshund is well-balanced with bold and confident head carriage and intelligent, alert facial expression. His hunting spirit, good nose, loud tongue and distinctive build make him well-suited for below-ground work and for beating the bush. His keen nose gives him an advantage over most other breeds for trailing. Note: Inasmuch as the Dachshund is a hunting dog, scars from honorable wounds shall not be considered a fault.
Size, Proportion, Substance
Bred and shown in two sizes, standard and miniature, miniatures are not a separate classification but compete in a class division for "11 pounds and under at 12 months of age and older." Weight of the standard size is usually between 16 and 32 pounds.
Head
Viewed from above or from the side, the head tapers uniformly to the tip of the nose. The eyes are of medium size, almond-shaped and dark-rimmed, with an energetic, pleasant expression; not piercing; very dark in color. The bridge bones over the eyes are strongly prominent. Wall eyes, except in the case of dappled dogs, are a serious fault. The ears are set near the top of the head, not too far forward, of moderate length, rounded, not narrow, pointed, or folded. Their carriage, when animated, is with the forward edge just touching the cheek so that the ears frame the face. The skull is slightly arched, neither too broad nor too narrow, and slopes gradually with little perceptible stop into the finely-formed, slightly arched muzzle. Black is the preferred color of the nose. Lips are tightly stretched, well covering the lower jaw. Nostrils well open. Jaws opening wide and hinged well back of the eyes, with strongly developed bones and teeth. Teeth--Powerful canine teeth; teeth fit closely together in a scissors bite. An even bite is a minor fault. Any other deviation is a serious fault.
Neck
Long, muscular, clean-cut, without dewlap, slightly arched in the nape, flowing gracefully into the shoulders.
Trunk
The trunk is long and fully muscled. When viewed in profile, the back lies in the straightest possible line between the withers and the short very slightly arched loin. A body that hangs loosely between the shoulders is a serious fault. Abdomen--Slightly drawn up.
Forequarters
For effective underground work, the front must be strong, deep, long and cleanly muscled. Forequarters in detail: Chest-- The breastbone is strongly prominent in front so that on either side a depression or dimple appears. When viewed from the front, the thorax appears oval and extends downward to the mid-point of the forearm. The enclosing structure of well-sprung ribs appears full and oval to allow, by its ample capacity, complete development of heart and lungs. The keel merges gradually into the line of the abdomen and extends well beyond the front legs. Viewed in profile, the lowest point of the breast line is covered by the front leg. Shoulder Blades--Long, broad, well-laid back and firmly placed upon the fully developed thorax, closely fitted at the withers, furnished with hard yet pliable muscles. Upper Arm--Ideally the same length as the shoulder blade and at right angles to the latter, strong of bone and hard of muscle, lying close to the ribs, with elbows close to the body, yet capable of free movement. Forearm--Short; supplied with hard yet pliable muscles on the front and outside, with tightly stretched tendons on the inside and at the back, slightly curved inwards. The joints between the forearms and the feet (wrists) are closer together than the shoulder joints, so that the front does not appear absolutely straight. Knuckling over is a disqualifying fault. Feet--Front paws are full, tight, compact, with well-arched toes and tough, thick pads. They may be equally inclined a trifle outward. There are five toes, four in use, close together with a pronounced arch and strong, short nails. Front dewclaws may be removed.
Hindquarters
Strong and cleanly muscled. The pelvis, the thigh, the second thigh, and the metatarsus are ideally the same length and form a series of right angles. From the rear, the thighs are strong and powerful. The legs turn neither in nor out. Metatarsus-- Short and strong, perpendicular to the second thigh bone. When viewed from behind, they are upright and parallel. Feet--Hind Paws--Smaller than the front paws with four compactly closed and arched toes with tough, thick pads. The entire foot points straight ahead and is balanced equally on the ball and not merely on the toes. Rear dewclaws should be removed. Croup--Long, rounded and full, sinking slightly toward the tail. Tail-- Set in continuation of the spine, extending without kinks, twists, or pronounced curvature, and not carried too gaily.
Gait
Fluid and smooth. Forelegs reach well forward, without much lift, in unison with the driving action of hind legs. The correct shoulder assembly and well-fitted elbows allow the long, free stride in front. Viewed from the front, the legs do not move in exact parallel planes, but incline slightly inward to compensate for shortness of leg and width of chest. Hind legs drive on a line with the forelegs, with hocks (metatarsus) turning neither in nor out. The propulsion of the hind leg depends on the dog's ability to carry the hind leg to complete extension. Viewed in profile, the forward reach of the hind leg equals the rear extension. The thrust of correct movement is seen when the rear pads are clearly exposed during rear extension. Feet must travel parallel to the line of motion with no tendency to swing out, cross over, or interfere with each other. Short, choppy movement, rolling or high-stepping gait, close or overly wide coming or going are incorrect. The Dachshund must have agility, freedom of movement, and endurance to do the work for which he was developed.
Temperament
The Dachshund is clever, lively and courageous to the point of rashness, persevering in above and below ground work, with all the senses well-developed. Any display of shyness is a serious fault.
Special Characteristics of the Three Coat Varieties
The Dachshund is bred with three varieties of coat: (1) Smooth; (2) Wirehaired; (3) Longhaired and is shown in two sizes, standard and miniature. All three varieties and both sizes must conform to the characteristics already specified. The following features are applicable for each variety:
Smooth Dachshund
Coat--Short, smooth and shining. Should be neither too long nor too thick. Ears not leathery. Tail--Gradually tapered to a point, well but not too richly haired. Long sleek bristles on the underside are considered a patch of strong-growing hair, not a fault. A brush tail is a fault, as is also a partly or wholly hairless tail.
Color of Hair--Although base color is immaterial, certain patterns and basic colors predominate. One-colored Dachshunds include red (with or without a shading of interspersed dark hairs or sable) and cream. A small amount of white on the chest is acceptable, but not desirable. Nose and nails--black.
Two-colored Dachshunds include black, chocolate, wild boar, gray (blue) and fawn (Isabella), each with tan markings over the eyes, on the sides of the jaw and underlip, on the inner edge of the ear, front, breast, inside and behind the front legs, on the paws and around the anus, and from there to about one-third to one-half of the length of the tail on the underside. Undue prominence or extreme lightness of tan markings is undesirable. A small amount of white on the chest is acceptable but not desirable. Nose and nails--in the case of black dogs, black; for chocolate and all other colors, dark brown, but self-colored is acceptable.
Dappled Dachshunds--The "single" dapple pattern is expressed as lighter-colored areas contrasting with the darker base color, which may be any acceptable color. Neither the light nor the dark color should predominate. Nose and nails are the same as for one and two-colored Dachshunds. Partial or wholly blue (wall) eyes are as acceptable as dark eyes. A large area of white on the chest of a dapple is permissible.
A "double" dapple is one in which varying amounts of white coloring occur over the body in addition to the dapple pattern. Nose and nails: as for one and two-color Dachshunds; partial or wholly self-colored is permissible.
Brindle is a pattern (as opposed to a color) in which black or dark stripes occur over the entire body although in some specimens the pattern may be visible only in the tan points.
Wirehaired Dachshund
Coat-- With the exception of jaw, eyebrows, and ears, the whole body is covered with a uniform tight, short, thick, rough, hard, outer coat but with finer, somewhat softer, shorter hairs (undercoat) everywhere distributed between the coarser hairs. The absence of an undercoat is a fault. The distinctive facial furnishings include a beard and eyebrows. On the ears the hair is shorter than on the body, almost smooth. The general arrangement of the hair is such that the wirehaired Dachshund, when viewed from a distance, resembles the smooth. Any sort of soft hair in the outercoat, wherever found on the body, especially on the top of the head, is a fault. The same is true of long, curly, or wavy hair, or hair that sticks out irregularly in all directions. Tail-- Robust, thickly haired, gradually tapering to a point. A flag tail is a fault. Color of Hair--While the most common colors are wild boar, black and tan, and various shades of red, all colors are admissible. A small amount of white on the chest, although acceptable, is not desirable. Nose and nails--same as for the smooth variety.
Longhaired Dachshund
Coat--The sleek, glistening, often slightly wavy hair is longer under the neck and on the forechest, the underside of the body, the ears, and behind the legs. The coat gives the dog an elegant appearance. Short hair on the ear is not desirable. Too profuse a coat which masks type, equally long hair over the whole body, a curly coat, or a pronounced parting on the back are faults. Tail--Carried gracefully in prolongation of the spine; the hair attains its greatest length here and forms a veritable flag. Color of Hair--Same as for the smooth Dachshund. Nose and nails--same as for the smooth.
The foregoing description is that of the ideal Dachshund. Any deviation from the above described dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation keeping in mind the importance of the contribution of the various features toward the basic original purpose of the breed.
Disqualification
Knuckling over of front legs
2006-07-16 18:22:50
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answer #10
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answered by Anonymous
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