How can I get my dog to stop biting people and chewing things? HELP QUICK?

Answer 1

how old is he/she? If they are still puppies, they don't bite. They nip and mouth. You can stop this by a firm "No" and a sudden movement towards them when they start mouthing towards you or others. Don't hit them because it will leave a bad impression and will probably make the dog aggressive later on in life. As for the chewing, well, if they are young (less than 1 year old), they are just like babies when they get their teeth. It itches and hurts. Soo.. dogs tend to bite and chew things to alleveate the pain and itch. If they are older dogs, (over 1 year) a firm "no" will work. You have to do it everytime they do it though not just when it bothers you. Also, go to a pet store, they sell this sour apple tasting spray to stop dogs from chewing things.

Answer 2

let him chew things(but bot ppl). Every time my dogs bite living objects I hit them lightly on their forehead grab their nose nd shake their head(dont b 2 rough!). my dogs NEVER do n e thing lyk dat now!:-D

if u wanna train ur dog more these r my techniques:
sit:bring a treat 2 their nose then slowly bring the treat 2 d ground until he/she sits.

lie down:when he/she's sitting nd use d same technique but 1nce d treat hits d ground drag it towards u(u should b in front of ur dog)

shake:grab ur dogs paw nd shake!

rollover:when ur dog's lying down roll d treat 2 d left or just ppush them...

jump:hold a treat up in d air while snapping ur other hand nxt 2 it.

these worked on my dogs!:-D

Answer 3

She's nevertheless a domestic dog - you basically would desire to crate prepare her so as that as quickly as you're long previous she does not get into mischief. Terriers choose to dig and chunk, you will have the choose to make beneficial that she has ideal chunk toys in her crate. initiate training now and you'd be waiting to ward off many problems while she is older.

Answer 4

I told my neighbor to start bring treats when he comes to my door. Now my collie wants to knock him down, but he don,t bite know.

Answer 5

everytime he/she bites tellthem no bite! and put your hands behind your back! it works!

Answer 6

knock out its teeth

Answer 7

just hit him slowly in his head

Answer 8

use mussel till you can get him to obey school

Answer 9

Here are a few articles from my website that will be able to help you.

How to Tell if Your Dog Has a Superiority Complex and What to do About it
Most bad behavior in dogs happens because of a very simple reason. Your dog has a superiority complex. You can take the dog out of the wild, but you can't take the wild out of the dog. Dog’s instincts are basically identical to the instincts of wild dogs and wolves. The only difference is that dogs view humans as part of their 'pack' and wolves and wild dogs do not. The 'leader of the pack' is responsible for the safety and well being of all the pack members. The leader of the pack has certain rights and privileges that come from being the pack leader, such as; the pack leader decides when to show affection or ask for affection, eats before all others in the pack, leads the 'hunt' or walk, and decides what is dangerous to the pack. eg. other dogs. Signs that your dog may feel that he/she is the leader are; pawing at you, staring at you, leaning against you or jumping up on you, nipping and mouthing, barking at you, protective of food or toys, barking at visitors out windows or at fences and when someone comes into your home and pulling on the lead when you are walking, hyperactivity and dominance with other dogs, people and objects, eg. 'humping' Amichein Bonding: These simple steps will get the message across to you dogs that they are not the leader you are, and therefore they do not have to worry about the responsibilities of being the leader. eg. barking at people when they get close to the houes or yard. when you first enter the house from being away, you must show your authority. the leader has a personal bubble of space that can only be penitrated when the leader says so. you must ignore your dogs when you come home until they have settled down. do not look at them, do not acknowledge them and do not pet them. once they have calmed down you may call one of them to you, tell him/her to sit and after they comply you may give them all the love you desire to give. If, however, they start to jump around again you must start all over. They must understand that you will give them affection but only on your terms, no one elses. The second step is gesture eating. The leader always controls the food. The leader always eats before the rest of the pack. Once the leader has gotten his/her fill the rest of the pack is then allowed to eat. I am not a big fan of eating a whole meal infront of my dogs so there is something else you can do that will get the message across just as well. You should never free feed your dogs. This gets the message across that because they have full access to food at all times that they are the leaders. Take a cookie or a cracker and place it on your counter. Place your dogs food bowls beside your cookie and prepare the dogs meal. Before placing your dogs food down for them to eat, make sure that they are watching, and eat your cookie or cracker infront of them. You dont' want to make a big scene, but you do want them to see what you are doing. You want them to think you are eating right out of their food bowls. And when you are finished it looks as if you have taken your fill and the rest of the pack can now eat. Third step. The leader always has a personal space in the house that no one else is allowed into unless allowed by the leader. For me it is my living room. My dogs are not allowed in my living room unless I say it is ok and not before. At first this may be hard to do. The best thing to do is go and get a few baby gates and place them in the opening of the room that is 'off limits' to your dogs. After a while your dogs will get the picture and you will be able to take the gates down. After that it is a constant reminder to your dogs that you are not welcome unless the leader says so. My male, who is a pure bred border collie stud, constantly tests me. He will put one foot into the living room and check to see if I am watching, If I don't see him right away he will put another foot in and check me again. By this time I have caught him and all I need to say is 'out', and he will retreat. However, there are some days that he will test me further and that is when I only need to stand up off the couch and he will back away with a look of, 'I'm sorry, your the leader.' You should never give your dogs full run of the house. Not even when you are home. Fourth step. The leader is always the one to lead the pack on the 'hunt'. The hunt being anytime you and your dogs leave the 'den' house. If your dogs pull on the lead or walk infront of you at anytime, the walk is over and you return to the 'den'. The dogs must understand that the 'hunt' only takes place under your rules. This may take quite a few times, but it is very important to follow all steps. Your dogs will be looking for any sign of weakness from you for them to try and take over again. Practicing 'heal' in a controled environment eg. in the home or in your enclosed yard, on a lead at all times, is a good way to train them for the hunt. All these steps take time and effort, but they will work. I have tested these theory's time and time and time again, not only with my dogs but with numorous clients of mine. This is a way of life with your dogs, not just a quick fix. Once you go back to your old ways your dogs will return to their old ways. By: Sarah Hill - Owner Top Knot Professional Grooming & Paws-itive K9 Consulting

Puppy Training Tips: Chewing
It is in a puppy's nature to chew things. The problem lies when your pup chooses the wrong things to chew, like your tables legs, your shoes, books or anything they can litterally get their mouth on. Always have a generous supply of good, strong chew toys for your pup. Two or three toys is not enough. You need a good 10 or so little, medium and big toys to save your stuff. Don't give all the toys to your pup at the same time. Save a few interesting toys for times that you need to distract your pups attention from chewing something that they shouldn't. Even with a large choice of toys, your pup will sometimes find it more satisfying to chew your new pair of running shoes instead. In the case of finding your pup chewing something they shouldn't, tell your pup "NO" or "BAD DOG" in a deep, stern voice. Litely tap your dogs nose with one finger as you take the object out of their mouth. The most comman mistake is then leaving your dog alone and going about your business. Your dog will then go and find something else to entertain them and it will probably be another thing they should not have. When you take something away from your pup that they should not be chewing on you have to show them what is 'ok' to chew on. Replace that shoe, table or book with a bone, squeaky toy or stuffed animal. Pat your dog and tell them 'yes' as you give them their toy and 'good dog'. The dog will then come to understand that this toy is acceptable to chew on and mommy or daddy's shoes and such are not. Don't leave your new puppy to try and figure things out for themselves. They will enevitably get themselves into more trouble. As a good parent to your pup you must point them in the right direction. Show them where to 'go pee', show them what they can and can not chew on and make them understand what is acceptable behaviour and what is not. It is always a good idea to practice Amichein Bonding with your dogs. This is a process that is good for dogs of all ages and will help to eliminate many bad behaviours. For more information read: How to tell if your dog has a superiority complex and what to do about it. By Sarah Hill - Owner Paws-itive K9 Consulting and Top Knot Professional Grooming - Ajax

Answer 10

No Bite!

Puppies play with other puppies by biting each other! It is a very natural thing to do. It can be very confusing to a pup if you scold him for playing the only way he knows how, and then encourage him to play again.
I have taught puppies and stray dogs to stop nipping and biting "people" by doing what "mom dog" and "littermates" do. Next time he bites or nips you "yelp" in a noticeably loud and high-pitched voice. Usually, the pup will look at you kind of funny, like he doesn't understand, and then proceed to bite you again. This time you "yelp" louder and in a very high pitch, maybe jumping back at the same time as if you're really hurt. Whenever you do this technique, you must always immediately furnish an appropriate chew toy for him to bite and play with. After a half dozen times of this, the pup usually gets the message. But, he is still a puppy, and he will "forget" next time he wants to play and bite again (after all, that's the only way he's played for his whole life!) It will take a week or two until this pup finally "gets it." Some learn much faster, and others more slowly, but this technique has never failed me as long as every person is consistent. That means every time the pup bites, "yelp!" Tell children and visitors to do the same. (Yes, really tell them to do the same, and make sure they do it; maybe they'll learn something in the process).  If your puppy or dog reacts in a frightened manner of your yelping, then try it again in a softer, less frightening manner.  You do not want to frighten the dog, only let it know that biting too hard hurts.
As the pup gets older, if he is not 99% reliable not to bite, after you "yelp," put your hand over his muzzle gently but firmly (sometimes referred to as a nose-hug) immediately after you yelp and when you say "No Bite!" Then immediately give him a chew toy and say "Good Bite!" You always want to end a lesson being taught with praise, that way, your dog will be more willing to learn. This will also teach your dog to go get a chew toy when he gets so excited that he just must bite something.
If these methods fail to work another option you have is to get up, turn your back to your dog and walk away whenever he bites or nips you.   No reprimand, no emotion, simply turn your back to your dog immediately after he bites you (the *first* time) and walk away.  After about 10 minutes, approach him again.  Be sure that you are praising him when he is biting appropriate things and not you.  This will teach your dog that he will not receive the attention he desires unless he behaves appropriately.
But if none of these things work?  The problem you are experiencing is one of the hardest solutions to describe via the Internet that I have come across. That is because, if the old standby's (yelping and no bite, and walking away) don't work, then the problem is usually based on a lack of communication in general: Meaning, the dog does not understand what you are trying to communicate, so it becomes frustrated at your attempts at getting it to stop biting and in its frustration, bites more. This can actually make the problem worse.

The first thing to look at is if your dog is getting enough physical and mental stimulation on a daily basis. Your puppy or dog should be able to be off-lead (off-leash), running around quite a bit to expend some of energy.  Depending on the age, size and breed of your dog, she may require up to 2 hours per day of vigorous activity.   Playing fetch and going for walks does not suffice for all dogs.  Both of these activities are quite mindless and can be done for very long periods of time without much mental concentration. 
Next, teach your dog the Settle command.   Begin teaching your dog at times when she is already resting so it is easy for her to succeed. You can also teach her an "easy" command by holding a treat within your fist and allowing her to gently take the treat. When she is forceful, she does not get the treat, as she becomes gentler and more "easy" she gets the treat. You will be rewarding her for inhibiting her bite and her aggressiveness.

This takes many, many repetitions. If your dog is biting and nipping continually and getting consistent attention for it (negative or positive) she may have already learned that she can get what she wants by using force.  You need to change this so that she receives more and better rewards for being "easy," for "settling" for "leaving it" etc.

When you reward, be use a two and three-step approach. At the instant the good behavior is initiated (she lightens up just a little) give her the verbal reward "Good Girl!" This is her cue, so that she learns exactly what behavior pleases you. After the verbal reward, give her a food treat. (step 2). And while she is eating the food treat (or after she inhales it) pat her on the sides for the physical-touch (step 3) reward. The food treat (step 2) can and should be omitted periodically.
You need to convince her that it is beneficial and in her best interest to behave the way you want her to. Setting her up to succeed so that she can be praised is the best method to do this. Using times when she is more relaxed in the first place... and then giving her a chew toy to chew on and praising her for a good "easy" as she leisurely chews on the chew toy may also help.

Right now, your focus may be on all her biting and rough-play antics. You may be giving her the most attention during these times. Turn this around, so that you are giving her more (and better) attention when she is behaving appropriately. This can be quite difficult with puppies and young dogs, and her appropriate behavior may disappear quickly - but it is important that you recognize it and praise it in the instant that it is there.

For example, I have had stray puppies come into the house that have never been in a house before... they run around all the furniture and bounce off the walls, and run into me biting and snapping out of pure joy and excitement. If they refuse the chew toy (a soft stuffed animal) I give to them and persist on biting me instead, I give them my calm, but firm "uh-uh" (meaning: I am not happy with what you are doing). The instant they (or I) put the chew toy in their mouth, I praise "Good Girl" and as I try to pet them, they usually try to bite my hand out of their excitement. So, I say, "Uh-uh" again. If they persist, I turn my back to them. If they climb up on my back, I get up and walk away. When they follow me biting at my heels... I throw a toy for them in front of me (they usually don't even know where it came from) and this, or something similar, usually takes their attention off me and they chase the toy. Sometimes I dangle a toy above their heads to entice them to bite the toy.  When the toy is in their mouth: "Good Girl!" and I try to play with them using the toy again.

This type of scenario is repeated many, many times. Consistent positive reinforcement for biting appropriate items, and no reinforcement of behaving inappropriately. After an afternoon some pups settle down, others take a few days, and some take a week or more. They will periodically "forget" the rules (very often at first), but will begin to understand the communication at hand, and comply after repeated and consistent "lessons."
Think about "What am I communicating to my dog?"  And "What is it like to be trained by me?"  Puppies and dogs that continue to nip and bite relentlessly, usually do not understand you. 

There are two major causes of destructive behaviour: boredom and separation anxiety. Separation anxiety
is a term used to describe the insecure behaviour of a dog who is too dependent on his owner and thus becomes destructive in his owner's absence.
Separation anxiety is also common in dogs who have been abandoned or mistreated
Too many dogs are given up for adoption because of destructive behaviour, usually without any effort by their owners to change or improve their pet's behaviour. Accepting the responsibility of owning a dog means being prepared to deal with such situations.
The suggestions listed below will help you and your dog get right back on the good behaviour "track":

Have your dog spayed or neutered.

Give your dog rigorous, tiring exercise before you leave your home. This will require more time and effort on your part, but it is necessary to help your dog.

Make all home departures and arrivals uneventful. Avoid exciting your dog at these times.
Most destructive behaviour occurs within the first and last half hours a dog is alone. This is due usually to anxiety brought on by the excitement that often surrounds this time.
Plan a play session for your dog half an hour after you arrive home.

Never reprimand unless you have caught your dog in the act of being destructive.
Punishing your dog on your return for something done in your absence will serve only to increase its anxiety and confusion, and will hinder any progress you have already made.

Purchase a crate for your dog to stay in while you are away from home or are unable to keep an eye on your dog (this is comparable to placing a toddler in a playpen). Line the crate with a blanket and provide a variety of safe and suitable chew toys for your dog.
Never use the crate as a form of reprimand. Make the act of entering the crate enjoyable.
This method is commonly referred to as "cage" or "crate training", and emulates a natural habit of dogs, which is to go into a den for a safe and secure place to rest. Once you feel your dog can be left on his own, you can practice leaving him alone for short periods of time.
Allow your dog access only to certain areas of the house and, as with children, make sure breakables and dangerous items are well out of reach (also keep in mind that your dog may just prefer to stay in its "den").
Before leaving, switch on a radio tuned to a soft music/talk station. The sound of soft human voices and music has a calming effect on dogs.

Consult a veterinarian about your dog's diet. Foods that are too high in protein and/or lack other necessary nutrients may have an effect on your dog's behaviour.

Make use of the experience of others. Many excellent books are available.

Most behavioural problems can be solved with the right amount of love, time and patience. Don't give up! The love and devotion your dog has for you will make it all worthwhile.