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I am currently living in Japan, so I may be getting most online.

2006-07-03 00:49:51 · 7 answers · asked by norobizaka 2 in Cars & Transportation Car Audio

7 answers

to me a killer sound, is not only big bass, but sound quality. you gotta to have good speakers first. Since you are in Japan, if you drive a recent model of Toyota, than your speakers are prbably stock Pioneers, so that's good. Now all you need is subwoofers, and there are lots to choose from, i have Pioneers and i like them. yea there are better ones out there , but these are good for the price.

2006-07-03 01:06:09 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Sony's are nice like the first guy said. Sony Xplods with a new amp. Yes this is rather cheap buy my expireince with them is that they kick hard, and it will be a definite imporvement to your car audio. The thing is, on my two sony's I had a closed box... this is not the way to go, go with ported all the way. check out

caraudiodeals.com for some REALLY great deals

goodluck

2006-07-03 05:35:13 · answer #2 · answered by Jesus 2 · 0 0

I always double the sub wattage so that the amps do not blow the subs, then you get a more crisp sound

2006-07-03 00:56:54 · answer #3 · answered by REAPER_ENTERPRISES 5 · 0 0

Look for this when buying an amp... http://www.crutchfield.com/S-wn5MvZJYp33/popups/cacomp.html

CEA-2006 Compliant

On May 28, 2003, the Consumer Electronics Association published standard CEA-2006, "Testing & Measurement Methods for Mobile Audio Amplifiers." This "voluntary" standard advocates a uniform method for determining an amplifier's RMS power and signal-to-noise ratio. Using 14.4 volts, RMS watts are measured into a 4-ohm impedance load at 1 percent Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) plus noise, at a frequency range (for general purpose amplifiers) of 20 Hz to 20,000 Hz. Signal-to-Noise ratio is measured in weighted absolute decibels (dBA) at a reference of 1 watt into 4 ohms. This applies to both external amplifiers and the amplifiers within in-dash receivers

If an amp doesn't have this rating, it may not produce the watts it says it does.


http://spkrbox1.spaces.msn.com/ for real "sound" advice.

Your system won't mean squat without a well designed box to put your subs in. Some manufacturers have recommendations as to dimensions of various types of boxes. It is best to find someone who builds boxes if you go with something other than a sealed box.

You should always match up RMS (Root Mean Square) watts of Subs and amp per channel as well as impedance's(resistances). When a sub has rating of 600 Watts MAX it really has an RMS rating of about 200 Watts RMS. RMS is the nominal wattage your most likely going to get out of it. Remember, a 200 Watts RMS amplifier has more power output than a 200 Watt MAX.


If your amp is rated at 4Ω don't subject it to 2Ω, it will fry.

Here is the formula for subs in parallel:

Z = 1 / (1/sub1 + 1/sub2 + 1/sub3 + ....)

For series, just add them up (sub1 + sub2 + ...).

You can mix and match these equations to get the right impedance required by your amp.

Example 1: Amp is 2 channel and rated at 4Ω when bridged, 4 subs @ 4Ω each. If I connect two in parallel and the other two in parallel and connect the two pairs in series, I would have a total impedance(resistance) of 4Ω. So to the amp, it's just one sub when bridged.

Example 2: Amp is rated at 1Ω mono, 2 subs @ 4Ω each dual voice coil. If I connect two voice coils in parallel and the other two voice coils in series and connect the two subs in parallel, I would have a total impedance of 1.6Ω. Which would be perfect for a 1Ω stable mono amp.

You should use a capacitor as well.

Recommend for every 500 watts MAX you use a .5 Farad cap
Example: 1000 watts MAX - 1 Farad cap

You will also need what's called a "line level converter" if your stock head unit doesn't have RCA outputs or your amp doesn't have high-level inputs.

Try http://www.soundomain.com/shop you can find some really good deals, and this site is manufacturer certified. VERY IMPORTANT WHEN SHOPPING ON-LINE!!!

If you like I can send you some plans for reference. My plans are for a 4-th order band-pass bass box (A.K.A. bass-reflex) that holds two 12's.

Also included are java calculators you can use to figure parallel and series values given Ω values, tips on box building and types, calculating port diameter and length(if used), calculating box dimensions for types of boxes (sealed, wedge, cylindrical, etc.), materials needed and even how to make a jig for cutting perfect holes for your subs.

Just e-mail me sparky3489@yahoo.com

My system

Blaupunkt TSw1200 subs with a Sony Xplōd XM2200GTX.
My amp is 1200 watts (200 Watts RMS X 2), subs are 600 watts (200 Watts RMS) each, cap is 1.5 Farad w/digital readout

SPL is about 112 db each sub

Total cost(so far) = $410
------------------------------...
To the other people ranting about my answers.

Some people have made pot-shots at my post because my answers are "one size fits all" as one person put it. I have gotten at least 25 best answers (and growing) with e-mails requesting more information from this same post since I posted it.

I'm just trying to be as informative as I can be. There might be something the poster didn't think of, forgot about or doesn't know.

These peolpe may not like my style of response, but then, no one asked them.

2006-07-03 04:14:38 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Try with Alpine. Very good quality.
Also MTX subwoofers are good.

2006-07-03 04:00:23 · answer #5 · answered by boki4u 2 · 0 0

u can get sony xplode with sub thats more than ull need

2006-07-03 00:53:27 · answer #6 · answered by www.Razackonline.com 4 · 0 0

http://www.crutchfield.com/

2006-07-03 00:56:55 · answer #7 · answered by chief_eagle_wing 3 · 0 0

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