You do not tie a dog to leash train. You work with them about 15 minutes a day. Put your dog on a leash and do not come in until he poops. When he goes praise him. Never hit your dog for any reason.
2006-06-25 09:24:59
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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FYI -- The Minpin is not a "Miniature Doberman". They share common ancestors. Similarities between the two may result from a common genetic relation to the German Pinscher. Some genetic stock may have been contributed by the Italian Greyhound, the Manchester Terrier, and the Dachshund. The source of confusion regarding the relationship between the Doberman and the Miniature Pinscher may have been the result of a Miniature Pinscher breed standard from the 1930s, which basically stated that the breed should appear as a Doberman in miniature.
Please -- don't confuse this breed with a Doberman Pinscher.
2006-06-30 12:44:39
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answer #2
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answered by Surfer_Girl_59 4
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I have a Chihuahua/min pin mix. You need to crate train your dog. Get a crate that is small enough where he won't use the bathroom inside of it (but big enough so he can still turn around). Whenever he is in the house, you MUST WATCH HIM CONSTANTLY. Someone MUST ALWAYS have their eyes on him. If you can't watch him, even for a minute, he MUST be in the crate. He may howl and whine at this, but it is for his own good, and it is only temporary until he is trained. If you catch him in the act, say NO firmly (but don't shout at him) and IMMEDIATELY take him outside. Give him treats or some other reward when he goes outside. If you don't catch him in the act, and just find a mess don't say anything, just clean it up. He will learn pretty fast if you catch him in the act, so watch him very closely.
2006-06-25 11:29:07
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous61245 3
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Housetraining - Dogs
There are a few reasons why a dog might not be housebroken. First, there may be physical reasons, such as a urinary infection, so get your pet checked thoroughly at the vet's. Espcially if a dog backslides, or doesn't seem to be learning when you have been consistent, a physical cause must be considered. I can't emphasize this enough, as I recently learned from my own dog, Copper.
Copper is now 14 years old, with progressive hind end paralysis and a touch of cognitive dysfunction. Plus he was never really housebroken as a pup to begin with, though he was very clean on his own for years. Plenty of reason to start having urinary accidents, right? Well, even though I was pretty sure those factors were causing it, I took him in for a urinalysis anyway, almost as an afterthought. Initial test showed no bacteria, but I had ordered a culture which would take a couple extra days. Surprise! He did have a UTI (urinary tract infection) on top of it all! He may have gotten it from dragging around (he can't walk), or from polluted ocean water, who knows. But he's improved quite a bit since I started treating it, it was at least a contributing factor. So always ask for a culture when looking for a UTI, and always look for a UTI if a dog seems to be having trouble with housebreaking.
Many dogs do what's called submissive urination, and it is actually, in dog language, a sign of respect. This is the type of dog who gets low to the ground or squats, especially when greeting you or scolded, and pees. This is not really breaking housebreaking, but the spot on the floor is still there.
Some pet store puppies (that have been crated too much and have been allowed to go in their crates) have not learned to not dirty their areas (normally it's natural not to dirty their dens) and this can result of being given no choice while on display at the stores, or at their breeder's. These dogs might take much patience and time to overcome their habits, and alternatives to going outdoors might need to be provided, such as papers, "weewee" pads or even a litterbox.
Male dogs who have not been neutered (and even some who are) lift their legs to mark their territory. Even females have been known to do this. Neutering and training often helps this. You also might want to try some of the repelling sprays found at pet supply stores, as well as cleaning solutions designed for dog urine.
Sometimes dogs just don't have the idea of what's really expected of them, especially young ones, but sometimes even older ones. Often a puppy just doesn't have the control necessary to hold on for too long - a very general rule of thumb is one hour more than a pup's age in months. A 3 month pup can often go 4 hours. Crate training can help (which if properly taught is not cruel, but dogs see it as their den - a natural concept to them) and confinement, along with going out at the correct times, and even more importantly using praise and correction at the correct time. An 8 week puppy can't go much more than a couple of hours, yes, you will lose sleep. It will get better. Correcting a dog after the fact is pointless, they really just don't get it, their concept of time is different, and they do not see a cause and effect. While they just might associate that there's pee or crap over there on the carpet with your anger, they don't get that they CAUSED it to be there.
Praising the animal profusely when they go outside, or wherever their designated area is, can be very effective. Make sure they get the chance to go out as often as necessary, yes, even if you lose some sleep. Most dogs will not dirty their dens, crating them and confining them will keep them from messing in the house until you can take them out and start encouraging bladder control if old enough. If you do catch them having an accident, just a sharp word will usually surprise them into stopping momentarily (the trick here is to surprise them, not correct them), and you can then rush the dog outside or to his area, where you can the tell them what a great dog he is for going outside. You can also associate a word with it, such as "get busy", or "go potty", and the dog should eventually learn to go on command when possible (great for those in snow areas!)
Be sure you get the proper cleaners for any accidents, any leftover subtle scent can cause a dog to go in the same place. You can purchase special cleaners at pet supply stores, such as Nature's Miracle.
2006-06-25 11:11:50
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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First...male puppies are hard to train
You should think about "crate" training if you haven't already.
We had to do this w/our puggle and he is fully trained at 7 mths old.
Buy wee pads and put them in the locations he poos so it won't ruin your carpets. When he does his thing...take it out side and put it where you want him to go (the poo not the wee pad)...they will go in this "familiar" place.
Also...you might have to stay out with him a little longer then you have been...
Good luch...its frustrating, but in the end it will happen.
Oh...and don't expect this to happen over night...our pup was 4 mths old before we got him fully trained
2006-06-25 09:28:34
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answer #5
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answered by Jessi 7
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I read in a LIBRARY BOOK that if you have to scold your dog, you have to go right back and pet them and kind of re-assure them. They ARE NOT human, which some people think.
I trained my dog inside, on puppy papers from Walmart. They are wonderful, for when you are gone, or have your back turned and your dog has been trying to tell you to take them out (in his doggy way).
When they are still in training, you are SUPPOSED TO take them out every 2 hours, at least, if not sooner.
Get a library book on training your dog--there might even be something on dog training.com
It's not all that hard---just takes p a t i e n c e!
2006-06-25 09:30:59
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answer #6
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answered by bettyboop 6
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cratetraiing is the key. dogs usually dont go to the bathroom in their den, so get him a crate. make sure its not too big to go in one end and sleep in the other.keep him in the crate all times but during play and feeding. DO NOT USE WEE WEE PADS this slows down the process of house breaking. create a scheldule for u to take hime outside to do his business ex. after eating, playing, sleeping. make sure he does 1 and 2 b4 u bring him back in.
2006-06-25 10:28:13
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answer #7
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answered by <333 4
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I suggest you try crate training. This method of training works because it begins with a concept that dogs and puppies understand.....that is, you don't mess where you eat and sleep. Your dog should be confined to a crate when you can't watch him. Immediately after letting him out of the crate, take him outside to a designated potty spot and tell him, "go potty" or some other phrase you are comfortable with using. Eventually this will help your dog to go to the bathroom on command. If your dog does not eliminate when you take him outside, put him back in the crate for about 15 minutes. Then take him back out to the same potty spot. If your dog continues to poop when you bring him in the house, try picking up the poop and taking it outside to the designated potty spot. That way the next time you take your pup outside, his scent will already be there. Sometimes this helps a pup to understand what you mean when you take him outside and say, "go potty". Your pup should be closely supervised when inside your house. Do not give him the chance to have accidents by keeping a watchful eye. Puppies should not be given free run of a house until they are reliably potty trained. If you see him about to make a mistake, make a sharp sound to startle him(you can use your voice or by shaking an empty soda can with a few pennies in it, taped shut). Once the pup is startled and stops eliminating, pick him up immediately and take him outside. Let him finish going, and give LOTS of praise when the pup goes in the right spot. Never punish your puppy for making mistakes. This will only make him fearful, and try to hide when he needs to go. You want him to know that's it's OK to go, as long as he's in the right spot. Should you ever find an accident on the floor, and you DID NOT catch the pup in the act, say nothing to the dog. Clean up the accident, and pay closer attention to your puppy the next time. Your pup should also sleep in his crate at night so that he will be forced to whine to let you know he needs to go out overnight. It is important to purchase the correct size crate for your dog. It should be large enough for your adult dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down stretched out flat on his side. You may need to divide the crate in the beginning if it is too big for the puppy. The crate will not work if it is large enough for the puppy to eliminate in one end and sleep in the other. You should also feed your puppy in his crate. This will help him to understand that the crate is his own special, private place. When you first introduce the crate to your puppy, do not force him inside. Let him explore it on his own, and maybe put some treats inside, and of course a comfortable bed. Any attempt your pup makes at exploring the crate should be given LOTS of praise. When the pup finally enters on his own, try closing the door for a few seconds. Do not move out of sight. When your dog is calm open the crate door and let him back out. Give LOTS of praise. Never let your dog out of the crate if he is simply carrying on. This will teach him that making a fuss in the crate is what gets you to open the door. After a few tries like this, close the door and move out of sight for a few seconds. Gradually increase the time the pup is in the crate. Eventually, he will come to see the crate as his own room within your house. Try not to disturb your dog when he goes in the crate. This is his "safe zone". I hope this information has been helpful to you and your best friend.
2006-06-25 10:29:27
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answer #8
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answered by DogTrainer416 2
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If possible, build a pen outside. That's what we did. When your pup is itchin' to go, put him outside in the pen, and leave him out there for awhile. Eventually he'll learn. :)
2006-06-25 09:25:41
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answer #9
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answered by Anonymous
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spank him if he urinates on the floor and if he dosent give him a treat.
2006-06-25 12:23:04
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answer #10
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answered by brandonjay 1
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