which type of box do u prefer in car for sub-woofer's!?

Question

did not getting much vibration as it must give .
having a pioneer TS-W306DVC
1000 watts woofer in a box which is not deep below the sub. but deep of about 10-12 inches above sub. & having a fibre glass. fixed at the top & having some space at the bottom for bass!

should i change the box or add 1 more sub. to get the maximum bass from mono amp. & can a 1000watts mono amp handle two 1000 watts each subs.

below is the sub-woofer. specification!
Composite IMPP cone using interlaced aramid fiber
3-layer, fiber woven radial surround
Single conex damper with damper ring
4-layer, long voice coil (TS-W306C)
Dual 4-layer, long voice coils (DVC) (2 x 4Ħ)(TS-W306DVC)
12-slit, 55-mm (2-3/16") aluminum voice coil bobbin
Dual mass high-power magnet (2.4 kg, 83 oz.)
Extended and vented pole yoke
Silver binding posts
Spoke grille compatible (UD-G306)
400 watts nominal power handling
18-500 Hz, 89 dB,

MY AMP SPECIFICATIONS!
1000W Max Class-D Mono Amplifier

Features
300W x 1 / 500W x 1 (continuous power)
600W x 1/ 1000W x 1 (max. power)
Variable LPF (40 - 240Hz, -24dB/oct.)
High-voltage input level control (125mV - 6.5V)
Bass level control (-22 to +12dB)
Low load impedance capacity

Answer 1

you can't really do a box with dimensions like that, the sub will have a specific cubic foot requirement that will give the best sound for the system. Then you build the box around these requirements, for example, I have Eclipse SW-9152 Titanium subs, where each sub requires 6 cubic feet of box area, the formula is:
calculate width x height x depth and devide it by 1728, which will give you a figure, then you adjust the measurments to attain the cubic feet needed, you must also account for the area inside the box the sub takes up. For example, I would need a box that is 32" x 32" x 24" to give me 14.2 cubic feet, so that would be the 12 the subs need, plus about a cubic foot for the area of each sub inside the box. You can also research how big the port has to be in relation to the subs and box type, and tune it for the best sound, but I have not done any research on that area. But, it sounds like you have a nice start to your system

Answer 2

Not sure I understand your question - but I'll give it a shot. Your amplifier, first off, is not 1000 watts. Never look at the maximum output to determine the power of your amplifier. You want to check the RMS (continous) output to determine exactly how powerful your amplifier is.

As for enclosure types, depending on your vehicle, I have always been a fan of sealed enclosures. Great frequency response and quite a bit of 'boom'. If you have a trunk or the vehicle is a hatchback, face the subwoofer towards the rear of the vehicle.

Finally, check the wiring of the subwoofer and make certain you have the voice coils wired in parallel - NOT series. This will help to reduce the impedance on your amplifier and generate additional power.

Simply adding another subwoofer may not be enough. If you are looking for serious, window rattling bass - you may need to upgrade both your subwoofers and your amplifier to a larger one. More cone area = more 'boom'.

Answer 3

http://spkrbox1.spaces.msn.com/...... for real "sound" advice.

Your system won't mean squat without a well designed box to put your subs in. Some manufacturers have recommendations as to dimensions of various types of boxes. It is best to find someone who builds boxes if you go with something other than a sealed box.

You should always match up RMS (Root Mean Square) watts of Subs and amp per channel as well as impedance's(resistances).

If your amp is rated at 4Ω don't subject it to 2Ω, it will fry.

Here is the formula for subs in parallel:

Z = 1 / (1/sub1 + 1/sub2 + 1/sub3 + ....)

For series, just add them up (sub1 + sub2 + ...).

You can mix and match these equations to get the right impedance required by your amp.

Example: 4 subs @ 4Ω each. If I connect two in parallel and the other two in parallel and tie the two pairs in series, I would have a total impedance(resistance) of 4Ω. So to the amp, it's just one sub.

You should use a capacitor as well.

Recommend for every 500 watts MAX you use a .5 Farad cap
Example: 1000 watts MAX - 1 Farad cap

Try http://www.soundomain.com/shop you can find some really good deals, and this site is manufacturer certified. VERY IMPORTANT WHEN SHOPPING ON-LINE!!!

You will also need what's called a "line level converter" if your stock head unit doesn't have RCA outputs or your amp doesn't have high-level inputs.

If you like I can send you some plans for reference. My plans are for a 4-th order band pass bass box that holds two 12's. Also included are java calculators you can use to figure parallel and series values given Ω values.
Just e-mail me [e-mail]

My system

Blaupunkt TSw1200 subs with a Sony Xplōd XM2200GTX.
My amp is 1200 watts, subs are 600 watts each, cap is 1.2 Farad

SPL is about 112 db

Total cost(so far) = $410

Answer 4

i would go with the rockford fosgate subs. i had one stage 3 15 and man did it hit and i only had it to a p300.1. the specs between the stage 2 and 3 are not that much of a difference. also hifonics there ok their amps are more well known. mtx there old skool subs dont get them to much trouble. kicker the l7 whoa thats alot of bass so you will spend money on trying to find the right amp. pioneer might as well buy walmart subs. alpine i heard they cant be pushed to much and the cones tear easliy. as far as boxes you should check rockford have some nice boxes such as bandpass boxes with their logo which look bad ***. good luck remember go with what you like (style,sound,wattage)

Answer 5

pioneer sould recomend a box for it. how big the box should be i mean. if you want it to be louder go ported. if you want it to sound better then go sealed. i heard 2 of these in a ported, and they sounded great. couldnt tell you how big the box was though. i think it might have been a cube a piece. not real sure though.

good luck to ya!

Answer 6

a shoe box