how do roses reproduce?

Question

i got this one rose bush that i love and i want to have more of them around my house.

Answer 1

There are two primary ways to propagate roses. Asexual reproduction is usually used to produce a duplicate of the parent plant. Sexual reproduction, i.e. growing roses from seed, is primarily used to create new varieties of roses.
Common methods of asexual propagation of roses are softwood rooting, hardwood rooting, and bud grafting. Limited space permits only a brief description of softwood rooting.

Old Roses, English Roses and Miniatures are generally good candidates for rooting cuttings because they usually grow vigorously on their own roots. Modern Roses such as Hybrid Teas and Floribundas are usually sold budded onto different rootstock. Some Modern Roses do grow vigorously on their own roots, while others do not. Below is a description of softwood rooting from Karen Baldwin with some changes.

ROSE PROPAGATION A LA ZIPLOCK BAGGIES

MAKING THE CUTTING

Preferably take a cutting on which the bloom is barely spent, so that all the petals have just recently dropped off. It is okay to take a cutting earlier, but at least make sure color is showing in the bud. These are indications of the maturity of the wood in the stem -- you want something in between the extremes of greenwood and hardwood.
Try to have at least four separate leafsets under the bloom, and a five-leaflet set at the bottom of the cutting. (Each spot where the leafsets meet the stem forms a "node," where the bud eyes are, and from which roots can form. Hybrid teas tend to have fewer "nodes" spaced farther apart than Old World roses, and thus require a longer cutting, generally speaking). Make a clean bottom cut with a sharp, clean pruning tool 1" below the last node. Try to leave about 1/2" of cane above the top leafset.
Keep your cuttings fresh in water while you gather more, until you're ready to plant them.
PLANTING THE CUTTING:

Fill a 1-gallon zip lock baggie 1/4 to 1/3 full (about 3") with STERILE loose potting mix. (e.g., 1/2 peter's potting soil and 1/2 vermiculite). A 2-gallon ziplock baggie may be better since it will give the leaves more room, but use the same depth of soil you'd use in a 1-gallon baggie, since you'll be watching for roots growing through it, later.
Moisten the mix but do not make it extremely wet. Use 1 tsp. miracle gro per 1 quart of water, to provide some initial nutrients (which may help avoid yellowing and leaf-drop). With your hands, firm the soil down well, within the baggie. The soil should be very damp, but there should be no standing water in the bottom.
Snip off the stem a little above the top-most leaf set (i.e., remove the flowering part). Try to leave about 1/2" of cane above the top leafset.
Strip off the bottom two sets of leaves (where the stem will be pushed into the soil).
Score the bottom part of the stem along its length (vertically) for an inch or so. (An exacto-knife works nicely for this purpose, but fingernails will do fine.) Roots will form along this score.
Dip scored end of cutting into rooting compound, a couple inches deep. Knock off the excess (you can get too thick a layer). Stick the cutting a couple of inches into the soil.
If insects have eaten the leaves during previous rooting attempts, you may wish sprinkle a very small amount of diazinon or other insecticide on the soil surface. Be especially careful if you are using chemicals indoors.
Mist the cutting and the interior surfaces of the baggie with a spray bottle filled with the following mix (to avoid fungus and mildew growth in the closed "terrarium" environment). Do not use spraycan fungicides or insecticides ... in the closed environment, the chemicals can overwhelm then kill a new young plant. 1 quart water 1 tsp. miracle gro 1 tsp. baking soda (no more!) 2-3 drops dishwashing liquid (to make it cling)
Zip baggie almost shut. Breathe into it 'til it expands kinda like a balloon, and zip the rest of the way closed. (Keep it closed unless it deflates enough to warrant breathing into it again.)
Put in bright, INDIRECT light - (e.g., behind sheers in a southeast-facing window) WARNING!!! if it gets direct sun or too much heat it will scorch (eventually turning black) and likely die! You may have to experiment a bit to find the best exposure; you might hedge your bets by placing some in different locations until you find the best spot for your house.
Clear away any leaves that might drop from the stem, reinflating the baggie after removing them.
POTTING THE CUTTING:

Look for roots along the bottom of the baggie in two or three weeks. A few stubborn ones may take six weeks, and there is a report of one incredibly obstinate plant that took over 10 weeks!
Acclimation to air outside the bag is tricky. To be careful, (1) when you see some top growth, unzip the baggie just a little for a few hours the first day, then seal it up again. (2) For the next few days, unzip the baggie the same amount, but leave it open for a few more hours each day. (3) Next, leave it open all the time, but increase the amount the bag is unzipped each day for about a week, until it's fully open. Don't rush it.
Put good soil into a 1-gallon pot, leaving room for the addition of the new plant and its soil. Place the baggie atop the soil, and cut the plastic away (this can be slightly tricky). Firm the soil around the plant only very lightly.
Keep the same lighting in the same location (protected from too much direct sun) for a week, leaving the cutting unmolested to give its disturbed roots a chance to heal.
PLANTING OUTDOORS:

After they have spent a week in their pots, you can either move them into more light inside for the first winter), or (preferably) move them outside.
When moved outside, set them in indirect sun at first, bright but shaded, and leave them there for a week. (If your area gets cold at night, you may need to move them inside at night for a while.) The next week, move the plant bit by bit toward and then into full sun. (Note: Gro-lights don't normally put out nearly enough light for roses, though it can probably be done.)
When kept inside for their first winter, especially in zones 5 and below, place them in a spot where they'll get more light. (When planted outside in the same summer they were rooted, even with a heavy mulch, many more will be lost to winter kill since the new little roses won't always have enough roots to carry them through. Also, chinooks (intense, warm winds) do their damage too. By keeping them inside for their first winter, and planting them in the spring, they will be better-established by the next fall.)
Plant late enough to avoid those nasty springs that get warm, causing the roses to break dormancy, only to follow up with a hard freeze!
Remember that your rose will grow in size; prepare a good-sized area of soil with added organic material as appropriate to your locale.
Cheryl Netter has a World Wide Web page with three descriptions on how to root roses using softwood cuttings. They can be found by going to the URL, http://nexus.interealm.com/p/cnetter/rose_tour/index.html . Cheryl Netter's WWW home page with some excellent rose pictures and information is located at the URL, http://nexus.interealm.com/p/cnetter .

Answer 2

I still remember this from 4th grade...Roses reproduce the exact same way all flowers do. You see, unlike animals, flowers have both male and female reproductive organs. The male part is called the stamen, and it produces pollen, the flower equivelent of sperm. This pollen is then spread by hummingbirds, bees, butterflies, and other animals where it falls into the ovary of a different flower or the same flower. The pollen then fertilizes the...well, I'm not sure if I should call them eggs or seeds, but it fertilizes somethin'. Anyway, after that, the seeds develop inside pods and open up to fall onto the ground to be carried to different places by animals, the wind, rain and even people. Some will survive and become buried under the ground and will grow. When it's fully grown, the cycle starts all over again. If i missed something, sorry! I only remember things as best I can.

Answer 3

Rose Plant Reproduction

Answer 4

I can't really add anything to what N.Y. said. That is excellent advice.

Also, if roses are patented then it is illegal to propagate them asexually, without paying fees. It will say this on the tag that came with the roses. So don't do anything to get you in trouble!

I will add that often roses contain a virus. When this happens, you will often see discolored leaves or stunted growth. It is very common, since the virus is transmitted with the roses. during asexual propagation.

Because of this, some gardeners only buy roses from certain companies that are virus free. You can't do anything about this anyway, it takes specialized techniques to clear the virus from the rose. The only method you could use is to buy a new plant of the same variety that was virus free to propagate from.

Some gardeners get picky over virused plants saying that insects will spread viruses to non-diseased plants. But if you are happy with the bush you have, I see no reason not to propagate from cuttings.

Answer 5

There are two primary ways to propagate roses. Asexual reproduction is usually used to produce a duplicate of the parent plant. Sexual reproduction, i.e. growing roses from seed, is primarily used to create new varieties of roses.
Common methods of asexual propagation of roses are softwood rooting, hardwood rooting, and bud grafting. Limited space permits only a brief description of softwood rooting.

Old Roses, English Roses and Miniatures are generally good candidates for rooting cuttings because they usually grow vigorously on their own roots. Modern Roses such as Hybrid Teas and Floribundas are usually sold budded onto different rootstock. Some Modern Roses do grow vigorously on their own roots, while others do not. Below is a description of softwood rooting from Karen Baldwin with some changes.

Answer 6

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I'm not a huge rose grower, but I do know they can also be propagated by cuttings. I'm sure there's an american rose society, or some other organization on-line that has info. I got lucky. My climbing Blaze (my only rose) actually self-seeded, so now I have 2.

Answer 7

Both sexually with flowers-seeds, and asexually with grafting and root-stem cuttings, but success is variable depending on the species-variety. The rose seeds from the rosehip fruits and can take years to germinate!

If you take a picture of it, flower, leaves, etc, and e-mail it to a good company like Jackson-Perkins in Oregon, and then call them up, they can probably tell you how to get more "for purchase" so you don't have to wait such a long time to get seeds from rosehips to sprout, don't have to dig out and cut root-stems of your little baby, and don't have to do grafting. If you have a real green thumb and know about plant propagation, go at it. However, be forewarned.....rose is not the best plant to start learning plant propagation on!

Answer 8

I know that a lot of roses are grafted on to another rose plant. Many expensive hybrids are done this way. I know I had one and it froze one year the following year the grafted part did not grow but the original plant did and it was very much different looking plant. How this is done I do not know. They do this with oranges too.

Answer 9

if it is a bisexual flower simply take the pollen from the anther and place it on the sticky stigma of the carpel and allow fertilization to occur by providing the flower with the essential growth conditions hopefully the ova will be fertilized and a seed will be formed but keep observing the flower to see any signs which indicate the formation of the seed the signs are as follows: 1. the petals will shrivel and fall off. 2. the sepals will shrivel and fall off. 3. the stamen will shrivel and fall off.

Answer 10

Roses produce fruit normally which could be used. But I've never seen any fruit on my roses.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rose

Answer 11

it all starts when a mommy rose meets a daddy rose and they love each other very much.