overheating with a/c on only?

Question

I replaced water pump, radiator, new hoses, thermostat housing with thermostat and 50/50 mix of antifreeze, burped the air from the system, replaced radiator cap also, the car is getting 190 degrees without a/c, 96F with that stable temperature, as soon as i turn the A/C On, the car starts to surge forward and engine feels like it wants to stall, also the quality of cool air has been decreased significantly on warm weather, my decision was to replace the A/C compressor, could be a bad compressor cycling off and on (not low on freon actually) to overheat the engine?

the car has an standard fan clutch on it, it is not an electrical fan, the fan is ok, checked with my mechanic

196F temperature on my jeep's engine, keeps there without A/C , then turn the a/c and went up to 240F or so, not on the red zone, i have to drive a lot to see the red zone

what's the cooling valve and where is located at? i haven't heard of that, radiator is brand new and doesn't need to be cooked, if radiator is bad overheating will occur at anytime, not just with the a/c ON, yesterday i ordered A/C Accumulator with hoses (dryer) , A/C oriffice tube valve and A/C compressor is the only part used, the rest is brand new

i ordered the a/c condenser and found that is responsible to extract all the heat generated by the system, the ac generates heat and if the condenser doesn't do its work, it will overheat the whole engine and its components

what do you mean cooling valve, i haven't never heard about that valve, a tune up?? , this car has been mantained religiously, spark plugs, wires, distributor changed, oil change every 3 months, somebody could explain what does cooling valve mean??

is that part built-in on the compressor? anyway i received the a/c condenser, dryer accumulator and oriffice tube today, i only need the compressor to be delivered by tomorrow

compressor and condenser changed, have the system evacuated and recharged it again, it cools very good, but as soon as i idle the car i feel vibration on the engine and gauge goes up slowly, fan clutch??

Answer 1

reccommend checking high side a/c pressure you seem to indicate a/c clutch cycling more than it should if high side is spiking and all cooling fans are working then suspect a blocked oriface tube or expansoin valve [ always replace reciever dryer/accumulator dryer] when servicing valve or tube. in any event improper ac function can certianly cause your vehicle to over heat and you seem to have thrown enough cooling system parts at it . good luck , hope this was some help.

Answer 2

It could mean that you need to flush out your radiator, as some of the tubes could be plugged. It probably cools just well enough to keep the engine cool, but as soon as you add the extra heat from the AC it will no longer hold up. You may need to take it out and have it cooked out at a radiator shop.

Answer 3

It sounds to me that you're both low on coolant, there is an air pocket contained in the cooling device, your water pump is both leaking or the impeller is inoperative, the thermostat is stuck closed or you've an incorrect water-to-antifreeze mix contained in the radiator. The water would routinely get hotter with the a/c on because the condenser of the a/c is in the front of the radiator. It receives warm and then radiates that warmth for your radiator. The radiator became designed to have sufficient potential to handle the more effective warmth until eventually one in each of those issues i have said is latest. So: a million) With a chilly engine, fill the reservoir with a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water. Open the bleed screw placed the position the proper radiator hose meets the engine. allow the engine run. allow the combination contained in the reservoir expend and top off at the same time as engine is operating. Repeat until eventually coolant mix starts off to trickle out of the bleed setting up. Tighten the bleed setting up and close the reservoir. you presently have ensured an finished filling of the radiator with out air wallet. 2) If #a million is okay have the coolant mix checked with a hydrometer to verify a minimum of a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water. Rectify the problem. 3) at the same time as engine is chilly, open the radiator cap. look down on the water element. start up engine and allow it warmth up. Does the water contained in the radiator tank bypass out? If no longer your pump is damaged or your thermostat is stuck closed. element a non-contact thermostat on the better radiator hose. Does the temperature cycle through increasing and then settling, reducing somewhat, then increasing back? Or does it proceed to get hotter and hotter? If the former, then your thermostat is operating properly. If the latter, the thermostat is kaput. 4) of direction, (I might want to probable have listed this commonplace) yet have the device rigidity examined to locate any leaks. and performance the radiator cap rigidity-examined too. It needs a particular rigidity (16-24 lbs.) to make certain that the coolant does no longer boil.

Answer 4

Before replacing the compressor I would check the electrict cooling fan.Make sure it comes on when turning the AC on.

Answer 5

replace the ac condenser in front of the raditor,should take care of the problem

Answer 6

its probley the cooling valve it may have gone bad

Answer 7

SOUNDS LIKE THE COOLING VALUVE MAYBE YOU SHOULD GET A TUNE UP