I reeeeally love my dog but it keepks on biting me, how do I stop it?

Question

No beatings

Answer 1

No Bite!

Puppies play with other puppies by biting each other! It is a very natural thing to do. It can be very confusing to a pup if you scold him for playing the only way he knows how, and then encourage him to play again.
I have taught puppies and stray dogs to stop nipping and biting "people" by doing what "mom dog" and "littermates" do. Next time he bites or nips you "yelp" in a noticeably loud and high-pitched voice. Usually, the pup will look at you kind of funny, like he doesn't understand, and then proceed to bite you again. This time you "yelp" louder and in a very high pitch, maybe jumping back at the same time as if you're really hurt. Whenever you do this technique, you must always immediately furnish an appropriate chew toy for him to bite and play with. After a half dozen times of this, the pup usually gets the message. But, he is still a puppy, and he will "forget" next time he wants to play and bite again (after all, that's the only way he's played for his whole life!) It will take a week or two until this pup finally "gets it." Some learn much faster, and others more slowly, but this technique has never failed me as long as every person is consistent. That means every time the pup bites, "yelp!" Tell children and visitors to do the same. (Yes, really tell them to do the same, and make sure they do it; maybe they'll learn something in the process).  If your puppy or dog reacts in a frightened manner of your yelping, then try it again in a softer, less frightening manner.  You do not want to frighten the dog, only let it know that biting too hard hurts.
As the pup gets older, if he is not 99% reliable not to bite, after you "yelp," put your hand over his muzzle gently but firmly (sometimes referred to as a nose-hug) immediately after you yelp and when you say "No Bite!" Then immediately give him a chew toy and say "Good Bite!" You always want to end a lesson being taught with praise, that way, your dog will be more willing to learn. This will also teach your dog to go get a chew toy when he gets so excited that he just must bite something.
If these methods fail to work another option you have is to get up, turn your back to your dog and walk away whenever he bites or nips you.   No reprimand, no emotion, simply turn your back to your dog immediately after he bites you (the *first* time) and walk away.  After about 10 minutes, approach him again.  Be sure that you are praising him when he is biting appropriate things and not you.  This will teach your dog that he will not receive the attention he desires unless he behaves appropriately.
But if none of these things work?  The problem you are experiencing is one of the hardest solutions to describe via the Internet that I have come across. That is because, if the old standby's (yelping and no bite, and walking away) don't work, then the problem is usually based on a lack of communication in general: Meaning, the dog does not understand what you are trying to communicate, so it becomes frustrated at your attempts at getting it to stop biting and in its frustration, bites more. This can actually make the problem worse.

The first thing to look at is if your dog is getting enough physical and mental stimulation on a daily basis. Your puppy or dog should be able to be off-lead (off-leash), running around quite a bit to expend some of energy.  Depending on the age, size and breed of your dog, she may require up to 2 hours per day of vigorous activity.   Playing fetch and going for walks does not suffice for all dogs.  Both of these activities are quite mindless and can be done for very long periods of time without much mental concentration. 
Next, teach your dog the Settle command.   Begin teaching your dog at times when she is already resting so it is easy for her to succeed. You can also teach her an "easy" command by holding a treat within your fist and allowing her to gently take the treat. When she is forceful, she does not get the treat, as she becomes gentler and more "easy" she gets the treat. You will be rewarding her for inhibiting her bite and her aggressiveness.

This takes many, many repetitions. If your dog is biting and nipping continually and getting consistent attention for it (negative or positive) she may have already learned that she can get what she wants by using force.  You need to change this so that she receives more and better rewards for being "easy," for "settling" for "leaving it" etc.

When you reward, be use a two and three-step approach. At the instant the good behavior is initiated (she lightens up just a little) give her the verbal reward "Good Girl!" This is her cue, so that she learns exactly what behavior pleases you. After the verbal reward, give her a food treat. (step 2). And while she is eating the food treat (or after she inhales it) pat her on the sides for the physical-touch (step 3) reward. The food treat (step 2) can and should be omitted periodically.
You need to convince her that it is beneficial and in her best interest to behave the way you want her to. Setting her up to succeed so that she can be praised is the best method to do this. Using times when she is more relaxed in the first place... and then giving her a chew toy to chew on and praising her for a good "easy" as she leisurely chews on the chew toy may also help.

Right now, your focus may be on all her biting and rough-play antics. You may be giving her the most attention during these times. Turn this around, so that you are giving her more (and better) attention when she is behaving appropriately. This can be quite difficult with puppies and young dogs, and her appropriate behavior may disappear quickly - but it is important that you recognize it and praise it in the instant that it is there.

For example, I have had stray puppies come into the house that have never been in a house before... they run around all the furniture and bounce off the walls, and run into me biting and snapping out of pure joy and excitement. If they refuse the chew toy (a soft stuffed animal) I give to them and persist on biting me instead, I give them my calm, but firm "uh-uh" (meaning: I am not happy with what you are doing). The instant they (or I) put the chew toy in their mouth, I praise "Good Girl" and as I try to pet them, they usually try to bite my hand out of their excitement. So, I say, "Uh-uh" again. If they persist, I turn my back to them. If they climb up on my back, I get up and walk away. When they follow me biting at my heels... I throw a toy for them in front of me (they usually don't even know where it came from) and this, or something similar, usually takes their attention off me and they chase the toy. Sometimes I dangle a toy above their heads to entice them to bite the toy.  When the toy is in their mouth: "Good Girl!" and I try to play with them using the toy again.

This type of scenario is repeated many, many times. Consistent positive reinforcement for biting appropriate items, and no reinforcement of behaving inappropriately. After an afternoon some pups settle down, others take a few days, and some take a week or more. They will periodically "forget" the rules (very often at first), but will begin to understand the communication at hand, and comply after repeated and consistent "lessons."
Think about "What am I communicating to my dog?"  And "What is it like to be trained by me?"  Puppies and dogs that continue to nip and bite relentlessly, usually do not understand you.  For another helpful article, point your browser to: http://www.stbernardrescue.org/behavior/bite_inhibition.html and learn how to teach your dog bite inhibition.

Answer 2

How old is your dog and what is the breed?
Puppies bite. No surprise there. Teething and playing alpha are both part of this. Although they are only playing alpha right now if it is not corrected the play will stop as they get older and they will think they are alpha.
I taught my dogs to like ice at an early age. It helps the sore, itchy gums (and is a really cheap dogie treat!).
When they are biting at you, wrap your hand around their muzzle give a gentle squeeze and a firm command of "no bite". Be constant. If you only do it sometimes and not others - when do they know it is not okay? If that is not working, then wrap you hand around their muzzle, slap the back of your hand (do not slap your dog). The sharp sound should startle them. Repeat in a firm low growl type of voice "no bite". You want to startle them because their little puppy brain is so focused on "the kill" they don't realize what they are biting is the hand that feeds them. Rag bones, raw hides, Kong's....all good substitutes to give them after the correction.
Good Luck!

Answer 3

If your puppy is biting/mouthing you during play or when you're just trying to pet him, simply END the interaction, yell ouch, get up and leave. This will teach the dog that his biting causes you, his playmate, to go away. Dr. Ian Dunbar, a well known and respected behaviorist, suggests yelping out a resounding OUCH! When you feel the dog's mouth on you. This is very similar to the type of "correction" he would get if he were biting on another puppy/dog. When one dog/pup bites another too hard the victim yelps and the play stops. BE PERSISTENT! This works with most pups. It is something they understand and the offender learns to inhibit the force of his bite and eventually the frequency of it. You can resume the game again after a short time out. If your puppy is biting your children, you MUST be supervising ALL interactions between them. If your children cannot yelp effectively, then you must do it for them.

Note: Ignoring the puppy means not speaking to it, looking at it or touching it in any way.

Some puppies are more persistent than others. Some bite harder. It is more difficult for these guys to control themselves. It is very important that you stop "roughhousing" type play with your hands or feet. END THE INTERACTION THE INSTANT HE BITES!!

If you just cannot get the puppy to settle down, calmly place him in his crate with a chew-toy for a little siesta.

Biting is a normal behavior. Don't think that your puppy will "grow out of it". If he has been reinforced for his biting he will just get better at it. Manage it correctly and your puppy will learn how to treat delicate, human skin with kindness and respect.

Answer 4

You don't say how old your dog is but it shouldn't matter. Try this-..





Bite inhibition is an extremely important exercise to teach your puppy. Issues such as acceptance of being handled, fearfulness, socialization and biting must be tackled when your pup is young because problems with these issues are practically impossible to put right later. Teaching a dog with a full set of adult teeth and jaw strength to match is a totally different ball game!

While puppies need to investigate the world through their mouths their investigations should not include you. Pups begin to learn bite inhibition from their littermates and mother. If they bite their brother or sister too hard, the other pup will make a high pitched squeal and will run away, effectively ending the rough and tumble game they were engaged in. Their mother will make a similar sound and move away when she knows it’s time for her pups to stop feeding from her.
So you can use the “OUCH” method with your pup.

As your pup bites or puts his/her teeth on any part of you say “OUCH” in a loud high pitched voice. It is important to get the timing exactly right so, as the teeth make contact with your hand, leg or any other part of your body, say “OUCH”. Immediately follow this with a reward as the pup removes his/her teeth. If the pup tries to bite again after the reward you should severe all contact with him/her, i.e. leave the room for a couple of minutes.

Answer 5

First, make sure you're not the one encouraging her to play rough; this means no playing with your hands, use a puppy toy. Then when she goes to bite or accidentally bites, you make a short high pitched loud yelp and then you stop play. Every time she bites or gets rough, play stops. If that doesn't help, you stop play and leave the room without any verbal communication or eye contact.

Answer 6

Watch Cesar Millan

Answer 7

I agree .. smack him good a few times and don't let it bother you. Dogs are pack animals by evolution and in the pack "leadership" issues are always settled by violence. In general the violence is seldom damaging but it is exactly what is expected. To not respond in this way is confusing to the dog. Don't try and make a dog a human .. they don't think like us at all. There are times when your dog will act human but there are also times where it is vital that you act like a dog.

Answer 8

A friend of mine said the only way to show the dog who is the boss is to bite him back. He had to do it with his dog and now the dog only listens to him.

I am not sure I would be able to do that though...

Good Luck

Answer 9

My dog does it to, she bites your feet when you walk or just comes up and bites me. When she does it I stop grab her face at her jaw and tell her no in a calm, but firm voice-since I have started that she doesn't bite me as much.

Answer 10

is this biting or mouthing?

for me mouthing or for a puppy I was taught to gently hold the mouth closed say 5 to 10 seconds then release. It may take a few times but it works for me. they may whine like it hurts but if you are gentle and don't squeeze (except with enough pressure to hold it closed).
also you could put your hand farther into its mouth, they'll spit you right out.
but make sure you do something to say this is unacceptable every time.

Answer 11

Actually did you know that a dog will use his teeth to actually feel or touch you. Because they do not have hands like we do. I read this in my puppys for dummys book. I have three dogs and they will do this if they are excited to see me. I call it there hand shake. Its gets better with time, and one thing you should know is If you play ruff with your dog, expect ruff treatment from him as well. Hope this helps...