The manual for the welder says that it needs "a 3-Prong, 220 VAC, polarized, twistlock Power Cord Plug. NEMA configuration # L6-30 or equivalent." I have a dyer outlet that is a 4 Prong outlet. Can I install the 4 Prong Plug onto the welder and get the same results as required by the manual? If so, how do I install this to fit the 4-Pronged Plug? Will the dryer outlet work once I've installed the 4-Pronged Plug on the welder? I desparately need help!
2007-12-29
08:58:11
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7 answers
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asked by
Anonymous
in
Home & Garden
➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
So if the manual says, "a 3-Prong, 220 VAC, polarized, twistlock Power Cord Plug. NEMA configuration # L6-30 or equivalent." WHAT IS THE EQUIVALENT!!??? Is there an equivalent? If not why would it say that? Please help!!! And thank you for the answers given thus far...
2007-12-31
11:32:47 ·
update #1
Your welder is a straight 240V load. It only requires 2 hots and a ground.
The dryer has 240V heaters but the timer, drum motor and lights require 120V so its plug has 2 hots, 1 neutral (for 120V loads) and the ground.
The 3 prong dryer and range circuit arrangement came about in WW2. An exception was made in the NEC to allow the frames of ranges and dryers to be grounded by bonding to the neutral of the cord. This saved copper for the war effort.
However this exception was not removed until the 1996 NEC code cycle when all new installations were required to use a 4 wire arrangement where the neutral and ground were separated.
The 120V loads found in ranges and dryers are very small, just the dryers drum motor and any electronics or light bulbs. So using the neutral to bond the frames of ranges and dryers was not of much concern.
The NEC is NOT retroactive so installations that have a 3 wire circuit are not required to be removed and a 4 wire circuit installed.
I actually have the code book showing the ammendment allowing this. It was overlooked and was not removed until the 1996 code cycle.
So yes, there are 4 wire connections for dryers and ranges now but the answer is more indepth than "because the 1996 code says so" as mentioned by others!
The NEC calls for equipment to be installed as it is listed and to follow the manufacturers instructions. If you're going to do this legally then your only option is to install a L6-30 twist lock cord and plug along with an L6-30 receptacle.
http://www.levitonproducts.com/catalog/dept_id_1001.htm
The proper NM (Romex) wire for this would be 10-2. The white wire here will be reidentified by tape or a marker to indicate that it is a hot conductor to comply with the NEC. The proper breaker will be a 30A double pole breaker. At the breaker box land the black and reidentified white wire on the breaker terminals and the bare ground to the grounding bar.
I have decided to remove the suggestion that I posted earlier. It does not follow the intent of the NEC so I should not have suggested it, no matter if it would have worked correctly.
In the end you should install a dedicated circuit according to the manufacturers directions.
2007-12-29 09:43:48
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answer #1
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answered by David B 4
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The reason your dryer outlet is 4 prong is that after 1996 220V receptcles are required to be, not because of the reasons stated. Prior to 1996 dryers, using the same 120V motors and timers had 3 prong and worked fine.
I cannot recomend that you change the outlet to be non-conforming even though you could do so as described in another answer.
I would replace the power cord with a four prong myself. Since you will have an extra wire I would choose two seperate grounding points in the welder for the neutral ( white ) wire and the ground.
2007-12-29 10:33:29
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answer #2
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answered by Charles C 7
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You are over looking some very important things in this situation. First thing to consider is what is the Amperage requirement for the welder. I would guess 50 amps.
if t he welder requires 50 amps. The dryer wire is for 30 amps. So the dryer wire is not heavy enough for the welder.
Call an Electrician before you make a bad mistake that will be a lot more expensive than hiring a professional.
2008-01-01 16:29:52
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answer #3
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answered by straight foward 3
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The dryer "220"volt circuit is a 30amp 220 volt AC ciruit (single phase). The FOURTH WIRE IS FOR GROUNDING. The dryer will "work" without the ground.. but do not do this.
The welder NEMA plug L6-30 : I do not have a chart here. My guess is it is also a 220volt 30 amp load.. therefore the dryer circuit could "work".. but I would not alter any outlet or cord cap.
This means : LEAVE THE DRYER CIRCUIT FOR THE DRYER O N L Y !.
You will need a separate WELDER CIRCUIT AND OUTLET to match the configuration of the cord cap: L6-30.
The fourth wire on this (welder) circuit is also for GROUNDING... an additional wire for safety against shock.
I hope this answers you question.
Best to follow directions... do not alter any cord cap and NOTE:
DRYER CIRCUITS ARE SPECIAL FOR THE DRYER . . . ONLY.
WELDER CIRCUITS ARE ALSO SPECIAL FOR THE WELDER: THEY CANNOT SERVE Two TOOLS.
good luck and Happy 2008
2007-12-29 11:03:16
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answer #4
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answered by msilv9009 1
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Find the voltage coming from your dryer outlet. If it also gives out 220V, then you should be able to plug the welder in if you purchase an adapter from your local electronics store. If the outlet gives off 110V or some other voltage (i.e. you bought the welder in Europe and are trying to plug it in somewhere else), your welder will not work. If the outlet gives off 400V, absolutely do not use that outlet or very bad things will occur.
Adapter plugs shouldn't be hard to find; if you can't get one, you can also create your own wiring connect (see the link for more details.)
2007-12-29 09:15:16
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answer #5
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answered by asnakeny 5
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sure. The small hollow(the third prong) is the floor, and the two slits are ability. interior the field (in the back of the plug) the fairway screw is the floor. floor is often coded green, different than interior the field the place the floor twine is bare copper, related to green screws. that's a similar for each electric field on your place. although, i think of that's the undeniable fact that there is two lots on that circuit, not the GFI itself. The circuit breaker down on the pannel field is likewise a GFI, and frequently each thing else on the circuit with the GFI (plug) will close off while the GFI (plug) journeys. attempt looking out what's on that circuit, and unplugging some stuff from it, or if it works for somewhat in basic terms dont turn something on. wish i helped :)
2016-12-11 16:07:59
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answer #6
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answered by ? 4
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Yes you can. I am amazed at how complicated some people try to make this. The 4 pin outlet has a neutral. the 3 pin plug device doesn't require a neutral. So you wire the device to the 4 pin plug and don't put anything in the neutral screw.
I also need help after trying to read the other answers to this.
2007-12-29 16:53:11
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answer #7
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answered by Poor one 6
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