The best way is:
To buy a new motor for the pump. You can get it at some place like Granger.
The next best way is:
To take the motor to a rewind shop and have it rewound. Problem with that is on small motors like that it will cost more that a new motor for the pump.
The next best way:
disassemble the motor and take the stator to a rewind shop and have it baked dry then dipped to reinsulate the windings.
If it is capacitor start, you might want to go to somewhere like Granger and get a new starting capacitor.
After you clean start/run switch lube it with good quality non conductive lube.
If you are strapped for cash the alternate way would be to use your wife's blow dryer: Disassemble the motor and use it to dry the stator windings. (Use this method to get your wife's goat. Just tell her if she wants to swim you have to do this way.)
Also again if you can replace the capacitors in case of water having gotten in them. I know they are supposed to be sealed but with normal aging the seals might have weaken enough to let water seep in.
Also on the start / run switch use contact cleaner to clean it good and then lube it with a good quality non conductive lube.
Keep in mind doing that way is going to take a little time.
Better way than using your wife's blow dryer is:
I have used this method a lot of times to dry out pump motors that have gotten water logged from pits flooding and putting motors under water.
Use a light to dry the windings. The heat from a normal 100 watt light bulb will do a good job but it will take a while to get the winding good and dry.
Now here is the problem if you are doing it yourself. You should have at least a 1,000 volt megger to check the winding with to make sure the windings are not grounding out against the case. If you know an electrician he might have one you can borrow, or get him to Meg. the motor for you.
A DMM might work as long as you keep in mind that, like say you get a reading of: 1.256 M that means the resistance to ground is 1,256.000 ohms to ground at the DMM's voltage. And will not be sufficient when 110 or 220 is applied to the motor if there is any moist still left in the windings it will go to ground.
Also while you have it apart put new bearings and seals in the pump, or at least repack the old bearings.
Hope that helps.
2007-12-29 02:12:59
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answer #1
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answered by JUAN FRAN$$$ 7
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Pool pumps are designed to flow or pump water, they try this extremely effectively. regrettably this layout does no longer paintings close to besides on displacing air. each and every time air is presented into the pump or the piping from which the pump attracts it reasons the choose for priming. jointly as your pump is able to displacing some air it desires to flow a minimum of a few water to accomplish that. in case you will stumble on the source of the air being presented into the gadget you have the skill to be certain the subject. Air leaks are actually not as obtrusive as water leaks on account which you cant see them. examine the pump lid o-ring, and the threaded connections.
2016-10-20 06:37:43
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answer #2
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answered by Anonymous
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want a short answer? if the water was clean: no dirt or grit you can let it dry for a few days and then try and start it, it will pop a breaker or the bearing will squeal. All equipment is made to sit outside anyway. If motor is 6 or 7 yrs old a newer more energy effcient can save $$
2007-12-29 03:01:31
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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You really need to take it to an electrician, who can use his instrumentation to see if the water has got into the electrics.
Usually, I believe that such units are protected from water ingress, but obviously, a motor does need to be cooled and if it has been underwater, maybe the electrics have been penetrated.
Checking whether it needs to be stripped or not, would be a fairly inexpensive way of putting your mind to rest.
2007-12-29 01:56:51
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answer #4
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answered by Rolf 6
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