Are crested geckos high maintinence??

Question

I was atpetco today and this little gecko caught my eye. the sales clerck was very nice and he let me hold the gecko. i wa wondering if they are high manitince becaus im looking to get one!

how much would thye run price wise for just the gecko, i didnt get a chance to look, of yeah i was at petco.

Answer 1

These hardy geckos make excellent pets for both beginner reptile keepers and the more experienced enthusiasts. Whilst you may not see a great deal of them through daylight hours, they make interesting viewing at night and their quirky habits make them a delight to observe and handle.
In the wild crested geckos mainly eat fruit. This has been determined by faecal analysis.
In captivity I prefer to aim for a similar diet, despite complete diets being available. Such complete diets could always be added to the fruit to boost nutritional value. The best time to feed is probably late evening as they are nocturnal. Fruit needs to be pureed or mashed as these geckos cannot masticate effectively.
Suitable fruits such as peaches, bananas, pears, apricots and apples can be pureed, or fruit baby food can be used and some geckos even enjoy figs, so offer variety to increase nutritional benefits. ( Although there are some rumours that bananas may cause constipation, I have not found any evidence to back this up as yet) Citrus fruits should be avoided. Your gecko may also eat other types of baby food including vegetables or meat. Fruit should be offered to hatchlings, juveniles and adults 3-4 times weekly. It can be served on shallow bottle tops, enabling the geckos to eat with ease, 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of food per gecko. Any uneaten food should be removed before going mouldy or attracting ants which can kill crested geckos, although some people find their cresties eat the fruit after its been in the enclosure for a day rather than immediately – this may be due to the fact that in the wild they are unable to successfully masticate the fruit until it has become softened by being over ripe.
Calcium (not containing phosphorus) and vitamin D3 powder should be added to fruit twice weekly for hatchlings, juveniles and breeding females, and every other feed for adults. Multivitamins for reptiles will need adding once weekly (or follow the manufacturer’s guidelines). Vitamin D3 is required to assist absorption of calcium, although it is available as a supplement their is some evidence that it is not absorbed well when ingested. Therefore some people choose to use UV lighting to stimulate the production of vitamin D3. This is discussed in more detail further on in this guide.
Complete diets are commercially available and have specifically designed for crested geckos. The most well known being CGD, the Crested Gecko Diet, developed by Allen Repashy. This diet comes in a powder form and requires mixing with water ( 2 parts water to one part CGD). This diet may also be preferred by keepers who do not like live food such as crickets. Personally, I prefer to offer live food to encourage exercise/regular movement and natural hunting behaviour.
Bee pollen and spirulina can be added once weekly to increase nutritional value.
The minimum size vivarium that an adult crested gecko should be kept in is one that is 18x18x24 high (in inches). The most important requirement is height; crested geckos are primarily arboreal and spend most of their time hiding in trees or tall plants. They will generally make use of the whole enclosure.
As cresties require a relatively high humidity, they will need a vivarium material which can withstand this. I currently use fibre glass vivariums with screen doors and vents on the back wall to increase airflow. I use a dark green colour rather than a light or right colour in a bid to help provide some security. I have used wooden enclosures with glass doors and large air vents in the past, these have the benefits of being custom made to whatever size, shape and colour of wood you prefer, or which suits your home décor. But the down side of wood is that it does not with stand high humidity. One way to get round this is by heavily coating the wood with yacht varnish. Glass may also be used, but beware of using fish tanks which are often not secure for reptiles and can have poor airflow, they can also be poor at holding heat in those winter months, but this my not be a problem if your houses has temperatures which are suitable for crested geckos all year round. If using glass, I would suggest covering to sides with backing or a dark card ( on the outside) to help provide security via a darker area away from passing traffic which may disturb your cresty.
Being mainly nocturnal, Crested geckos will spend most of the day hidden from view. They require lots of hiding places at varying heights throughout their vivarium. Large/broad leafed plants, logs or commercially available reptile hides all are excellent choices. Whether you use live plants or commercially available silk or plastic fake plants is usually down to personal preference. There are advantages and disadvantages for using either. Fake plants can be cleaned easily and you won’t need to worry about plant care, but although they do come in a large array of colours, shapes and sizes, they may not be as aesthetically pleasing. Whilst live plants often look better, creating a more natural looking environment, they are not always easy to clean and maintain. Although live plants may help with maintaining humidity levels, they can also cause problems when locating eggs, as cresties often dig right into the root system to lay their eggs. The entire enclosure will need to be routinely cleaned at least once a month or so depending on how many geckos occupy the vivarium. It is best not to use a household disinfectant to clean the vivarium r equipment as many can be harmful to reptiles. There are many commercially available reptile safe disinfectants such as F10 which are more suitable.
Substrate is something that has been subject to many debates among owners and always will be. In a simplistic vivarium newspaper or kitchen paper can be used. There is minimal chance of ingestion and it is cheap to replace. Other popular substrates include orchid bark, cocoa fibre, mosses (sphagnum is most popular) or leaf litter. In captivity they are often fed on the bottom of the enclosure and the crickets let loose in the vivarium so the chance of ingestion is greatly increased. Ingestion of substrate in small amounts will do little if any damage however in young specimens it may cause impaction or trauma. The gut becomes blocked and it may result in the death of the animal. If you choose to use a substrate such as coco-fibre then be aware that if you have a breeding female, it may b difficult to locate eggs, one way to over come this is by having only a thin layer of substrate covering the enclosure and a deep container filled with cocoa fibre for them to bury their eggs in, they usually choose to lay them in the container making them easier to find.
Hatchling cresteds are best housed in a smaller, more basic arboreal enclosure. I have experienced no problems keeping both hatchlings from each clutch together for the first 3 months, but they do need separating at some point until you can determine the sex, as males can fight and it is also best to wait until the geckos are fully sexually mature and a good breeding weight before allowing them to mate. Not to mention the fact that it is best to use mate unrelated geckos. I prefer to use paper/kitchen towel as a substrate for hatchlings to avoid substrate ingestion, for ease of cleaning and easy observation of how much they are eating, plus defecating. It is also easier for them to find their food this way. Housing singularly has the advantage of preventing bullying and preventing competition for food.
A vivarium measuring 18x18x24 may house a pair or trio of adult crested geckos (1 male and 1 or 2 females or just 2 or 3 females with no males). However this is a minimum requirement and bigger is always better. If you plan on keeping females in with a male, then have separate accommodation for the male to be separated for a few months each year. A female can be over bred and will quickly become calcium deficient. The male should be separated from the females for 2-3 months a year at least to allow the females to be fed up and their calcium reserves to be replenished. ( more on this in breeding)
Is also important to consider the positioning of the vivarium, it is wise to avoid positioning near a fire, radiator or a window where sun can shine onto the enclosure. Positioning near doors, windows or on the floor may cause draughts, whilst placing in high traffic areas may cause your cresty stress. If keeping them in your bedroom be aware that they can be vocal through the night as well as being noisy whilst leaping around hunting. Monitor your house temperatures carefully throughout the year, especially the summer months as high temperatures can be fatal, some people use fans or air conditioning to maintain appropriate temperatures.
Crested geckos do best at temperatures in the low-mid 70’s (Fahrenheit). Over heating is much more of a problem than them being too cold. It is for this reason that care should be taken in the summer months to prevent overheating. An air cooler or an air conditioning unit may be required to keep the temperature within the desired range. Most crested geckos can be kept at normal room temperature in the winter months which is another benefit to these extraordinary creatures. If your ambient room temperature gets below 60F in the winter months during the day then you may need to install some supplementary heating. The best way to add a gentle heat to your crested gecko vivarium is with a low wattage bulb protected with a mesh heat guard. This is to prevent the lamellae from being damaged on their delicate toes and possible thermal burns. ALWAYS USE A THERMOSTAT TO PREVENT THE TEMPERATURE FROM GETTING TOO HIGH. Crested geckos have been known to die when exposed to temperatures over 85F for just over an hour.
Although some people would recommend using a heat mat, these are not really the best option. They do not raise the ambient air temperature so only provide a hot spot on the side of the vivarium. Crested geckos have not evolved to absorb heat through their abdomens; they live in rainforest in the wild where the temperature is constant all year round. If your crested gecko gets direct access to the heat mat there is a chance of the lamellae getting damaged. Heat mats are also prone to over heating which is another danger to your crested geckos. Again if you chose to use a heat mat ensure it is controlled by a thermostat at all times to prevent over heating.
Humidity should be maintained between 50% and 70% although it is best to keep it slightly higher while they are young. This is to prevent shedding problems which can endanger the delicate hatchlings. The best way to do this is to buy a spray bottle which can deliver a fine mist and give a heavy spray in the evenings. This should be enough for adults but while young or getting ready to shed an extra light spray in the mornings may be required.
Misting also serves the purpose as drinking water, for this reason the water should be allowed to stand for at least 24 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate. Alternatively a water conditioner may be used to instantly prepare the water, many of these products remove chloramines as well as chlorine. Many crested geckos will not recognise standing water in a bowl although it should always be provided, this makes the sprays even more important as they will drink the drops of water off plants etc. The vivarium should be kept humid but not constantly wet as this may cause fungal infections or respiratory problems.
Another way of keeping the humidity up is by using one of the commercially available water falls. These not only increase humidity but provide a moving water source which is more readily accepted by crested geckos than a bowl of water. Although even if you chose to use one of these the vivarium needs to be sprayed lightly in the evening once daily. One drawback of waterfalls is that crickets can land in the water and die, resulting in an opportunity for bacteria to multiply.
Lighting

UV lighting is required by many lizards in order to produce vitamin D3, which is necessary to facilitate absorption of calcium to maintain healthy bones and production of eggs. It is fairly widely thought that crested geckos, being nocturnal, do not require UV lighting, especially if they receive adequate oral supplementation of vitamin D3. Yet there is also evidence that oral vitamin D3 is poorly absorbed.
I have observed my own crested geckos when placed out side in the summer, choosing to partially expose themselves to the suns rays, often in dappled sunlight, but occasionally in full sunlight. When observed over the course of the day the geckos have been seen to slightly move as the sun moves, to remain exposed to the suns rays. Whether this was an attempt to receive warmth, light or both I do not know, but this year I will be monitoring temperature reading, UV readings and positional changes hourly, whilst they are place outside. I will add my findings at the end of the summer. I will also be testing their skin to see just how much UV their skin allows through ) compared to Bearded dragons and other lizards).
In the meantime, I choose to use UV lighting for my cresties. If you do use UV lighting, I would suggest the use of a safety guard to prevent your gecko damaging its feet as they can get hot.
Some people like to use a red light bulb to observe their geckos at night, it is thought by some that lizards
cannot see red light, yet I have heard of lizards chasing dots of red light when moved. So my mind is open on this subject at present. If a red light bulb is used then do closely monitor temperatures, use a thermostat to control it and a guard to prevent burns.

Answer 2

I am going to go against everyone else and suggest a bearded dragon. Leopard geckos do nothing but sleep all day and to a 10 year old that may be boring, also geckos are faster and smaller than a bearded dragon so they may be hurt if not handled properly or escape may from a child's hands. Crested geckos are awesome but they jump more than leos and they drop their tails really easy. Beardies get a bit bigger than geckos but are extremely friendly and will get to recognize your son so it will be more of a pet. They like to be held where as geckos don't. They don't drop they tails and are easier to handle and are be active during the day. If you look online at pics you will see people even dress them up. Definitely a beardie. I have 6 geckos, three snakes, two red ear sliders and one bearded dragon and the only one we all talk to and play with is the beardie. We even took him to petsmart for his pic with santa last year. Also they sell harnesses for beardies so he wont get away if your son wants to have him walk around. It is next to impossible to get one on a gecko and they hate it whereas the beardies don't mind. A beardie will sit on his lap or his shoulder for a long time but a gecko wont. For a ten year old a beardie would be a much better choice if he wants to interact with his pet;-)

Answer 3

Cresties are very low maintenance...and extremely cute!! I love the eyelashes. They're nocturnal, prefer a taller reptile-style enclosure - either mesh or glass, eat crickets, mealworms and the other feeder insects OR can go strictly on a powdered diet made specifically for crested geckos. Google *Repashy CGD* to see what I mean. I purchase mine through http://www.pangeareptile.com .

They like to jump - they're made to jump. Many have a daytime color AND a different nighttime color. They don't require basking lights, but they do need access to a photo period by light through a window. Not to set them directly in it - they just need the day/night cycle. If your house is cool you will need a heat source. The pangea link offers crestie care advice - they specialize in this little gecko. My hubby fell in love with the one I brought home one day. Just browse the site and be comfortable in knowing the crestie is a very personable lizard with reasonably easy care requirements...:-)

Answer 4

No! They are probably the easiest lizard to take care of! They don't need heat or lights--just a 20gallon long tank, secure lid, fake plants and rocks to climb on and a water bowl. Feed them Repashy Crested Gecko diet, fruit baby food, and small dusted crickets. They like humidity so mist daily.

http://www.pangeareptile.com/index.htm

http://www.crestedlady.com/crestedcare.htm

http://www.thecrestedgecko.com/

http://www.kingsnake.com/rockymountain/RMHPages/RMHcrested.htm

Answer 5

Definitely not high maintence. Disregard the guy that says it is high maintenance. As far as reptiles goes, they are extremely easy to take care of...probably the easiest.

Answer 6

all reptiles are VERY high maintenance you need heat, live crickets,UV lights and many other things, but if you think that this is the pet for you, i suggest you get it. if taken care of properly all reptiles are GREAT pets