1967 Chev Implala Help?

Question

1.I rebuilt my rochester 4b carb and everything is fine except the little coil where the rod goes to. There is to much slack in it and the vent on my carb wont open and close correctly,any suggestions on how to adjust this
2. When I go to start my car sometime,it wont do nothing, not even try to turn over, i figured it is my ignition switch, any instructions on how to change, it is on the dash not stering colom.
3. The clock doesnt work, what things do i need to check.

Thanks for the help,if you need me to explain any further,just let me know, i have never used this before so i might not be 100% clear.

P.S i justn had i painted,is it bad for it to be drove for a certain amount of time after it has been painted?

This is how my car was painted, bumpers,door handles,locks,mirror,antana,wipers..all that stuff taken off,it was sanded to the metal,primed,2 coat paint, 2 clear,wet sanded,waxed and buffed... Car looks good now..will it stay?

Answer 1

Not sure on the carb.
i wouldn't change the ignition switch just yet i would check to make sure everything it getting power starting at the battery, starter, solenoid, ignition, grounds. try turning the key to the run position and then jump the soleniod and see it that works.
as for the paint you can drive it anytime just dont wax it or go though a car wash

Answer 2

The choke coil should be adjustable by loosening the cover retaining screws and rotating the coil until it just closes the choke plate when the engine is cold....there should be an arrow on the choke coil cover that indicates the direction of rotation of the coil. If there's no coil adjustment, you have to bend the choke rod to obtain the same results....a good service manual will help also....parts stores carry Chilton or Haynes for around 25.00. Also, if it's an electric choke coil, make sure there's power to it with the ignition on...if it's not electric but heat operated, you have to see if the exhaust manifold heat valve and the intake manifold passage for exhaust below the coil are ok...it's common for them to get plugged up and easier to just rig up an electric coil setup wired to the ignition....or a manual choke.
Ignition problem could be a number of things...bad ignition switch, bad neutral safety switch, bad starter solenoid or loose, corroded battery cables. It's best to test for power from the ignition switch through the neutral safety and finally at the starter solenoid to make sure it's getting power or if not, where it isn't getting through...again, a good service manual will help. The ignition switch is held in the dash by a bezel that unscrews...the neutral safety switch (for an automatic equipped car) is usually at the bottom of the steering column inside the car by the firewall...it sits on the upper or side of the column and may just need adjustment...try wiggling or moving the shifter while trying to start....if it starts better, the NS switch is bad or needs adjustment.
Clock problem could be from not getting power....check the wire going to it for power. It could also be just worn out....those old time clocks usually get gummed up over the years and quit working.....there are companies that rebuild them...check out Hemmings.com for some or just buy a stick-on digital one.

Answer 3

67 Chevy and Pontiac had inherently poor ignition switches, changed quite a few in my garage.
First check the electric connections for cleanliness and tightness, starting with the battery posts.
If it still happens after cleaning and tightening, try this trick, when the problem occurs, turn on the headlights and try it again, if the lights fade to nothing it is probably a dead spot on the starter, if they don't dim the ignition switch is bad.

Answer 4

Go to this site & enlarge picture may help you with the linkage

http://www.rayschevy.com/images/guides/specs/carbureator/4mc4mv.jpg

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