First show with my mule! Advice?

Question

Heyy there, so I bought my mule! :) His name is rockyy. he is adorable. Anyways, it is my first show, its a costume, walk trot canter, and a hunter show. Any advice? Also, any ideas for costumes would be great! this is just a schooling show, but we are moving him and what not.

Answer 1

Im gunna help a bit with the costume. I love doing costumes and i place most of the time. Although this year i did not, trying to hand sew a costume with a full body blanket is not a good idea.

In the past ive done:
Bad bandito: You get a straw hat, cut holes in it and put elastic under it so it can go on the horses head. Take a hankerchef sort of thing and put over the nose. So its like the bad guys in the west used to do so people could only see their eyes. I tried to find a gun belt to sew on a seperate belt but i couldnt find a gun belt so i pretended he robbed a bank and made a belt with bags of money. I put bells in the bags, and fake money. I didnt do anything for myself but you could probably Put spurs on etc, possibly ride him if hes that bombproof

Answer 2

How demeaning. What are you thinking? Clothing on a mule? dog? cat? horse? rat?...... Living breathing creature with more honor than you....COSTUME?

"Native Costume" as in the tack indiginous to an area or specific style of riding. Egyptian, Morroccan, Mexican, English, Western, TACK

How would you feel if your mule decided to show you in his favorite events? giggle at the mental image

Answer 3

well he could be like a greek god...like zeus or posideon (it should be posideon because he invented horses for demeter) and massage his muzzle with lavender oil that has been diluted with hot or warm water lavender has a very calming and soothing affect also get the same stuf and put it it a spray bottle and spray around his stall

Answer 4

I have basically created a horse guide with the help of my friend, the internet and of course my personal experience!



I have included a lot of information below

Purchasing your equine companion can take a lot of time, effort and expertise. It is best not to rush because buying a horse is a long term commitment. Read the harrowing experience of one person.

Food
- 15-25 lbs. a day depending on size, temperment and work being done
- Free Choice of salt
- Good quality hay
- Grain mix or hay pellets
- Water - 5-10 gallons a day clean fresh and always available
Shelter
- 3 sided Shelter if living outside
- Box stall in barn with bedding cleaned daily


Horse Health Care
- Hoof care - trimmed every 6 to 8 weeks
- Deworming - regular program
- Dental Care - yearly
- Incoculations - consult a vet
- Exercise under saddle or daily turnout

Special horse care for the cold weather season usually starts in early November We here in eastern Canada (Saint-Lazare, Quebec) were pretty lucky with winter up until a few weeks ago (January 2007). Except for the missing leaves on the trees, riding conditions were similar to those in early fall.

Alas, winter is back, and with it come certain concerns on how to keep our equine companions in top shape.

Some experts in horse care say that a horse has to be exercised the same in winter as in summer. (These experts probably have never experienced real winter conditions)


Icy weather conditions in many cases makes it an impossible task without an indoor arena.

But the cold damp and dusty atmosphere of most arenas are also detrimental to the health of the horse.

Maintain a baseline of physical fitness by riding outside three times a week for an hour at a walk and trot.

a well exercised horse needs to be cooled out thoroughly then brushed to stand the hair up again before turning them back out.




Fluffy hair traps air and keeps the horse warm; hair plastered down flat or wet lets body heat escape.


Check the sole for bruising that may occur on the hard ground and ice.

Many of the abscesses that develop in early spring can be attributed to undiagnosed bruises that started in winter.


Water intake for horses in the winter is also a problem.

Much of the time a horse will not drink as much water if it is too cold.

The best method to keep a horse hydrated is to supply a heated water bucket.



A heated water bucket is akin to a warm cup of tea.


Dehydration (lack of water) is the number one cause of impaction colic in horses.

Another idea for coddling your horse in the winter is to prepare it a nice hot homemade meal.
One example of a warm meal that can be offered to horses at least once a week is bran mash.
Horses will love this. It consists of bran sweet feed, chopped apples, sliced carrots, and molasses.

There are ways to make money with horses.
If you love horses and you want to make a living doing something in the equine industry
then this ranch is a perfect way to jump in to living with horses.
The joys of rural living!

At our ranch we make money in a number of ways

We run a boarding stable and have room for 10 horses in our stable. Some horse boarding stables also offer outdoor boarding as well. This means that the horses live outdoors all year around using the shelter in their paddock during rainy or cold weather.

By offering outdoor boarding as well you can increase the number of horses from 10.

We do not offer outdoor boarding here. But it can be an option if you like.


Riding instruction
You can also offer lessons (we have a large training ring with lights) Horse back riding instructors are always looking for places where they can teach, you make money by taking a portion of the riding fees as payment for using your facilities.

Trail rides
Although we toyed with the idea, we chose not to offer trail riding due to other commitments. (we also have a design company ) but we have many people asking us for trail riding. I suggest offering exclusive trail rides with a small number of riders. With 2 quiet horses you can charge 50.00 for an hour ride with only walk and trot. The trails here are so beautiful and if you have nice horses you are in business.

We bought a horse property and moved out to Saint-lazare on a whim to try our hand at rural living.

It was time in our life to start doing what we loved to do instead of having life control us. We decided to control our destiny. We always loved animals especially horses. I was always a city girl but in my heart I loved the country life.

So it was time to make a change. And we jumped in with both feet. We did not know a thing about running a boarding stable or horse keeping in general. But it was easy to learn and since we love our new life we are having so much fun.

We wake up each morning ready and eager for the new day.

I love caring for the horses. I even like mucking out the box stalls. I find cleaning the stable very zen. I don’t have to think, it is easy work and I find it to be very meditative and calming. I get my best ideas as I clean out the barn.

If you don’t have the time or energy to clean boxstalls, there are people you can hire to do it for you. Last winter we took on a boarder who did the cleaning for in exchange for board. It is a win win situation for both parties.

Pony parties

Another service you can offer is pony rides. Get 2 ponies and you are in business. You can offer pony birthday parties for children as well as just pony rides.To get ideas for your pony parties

Cindy Littlefield at Family Fun has this great hobby horse craft.
She says this homemade hobbyhorse is perfect for kids who are rearing to go and it requires NO SEWING

Materials needed

A pair of old blue jeans
Some string
felt
glue
yarn
polyester filling (batting available at craft stores)
3-foot-long wooden dowel with a 3/4-inch diameter


DIRECTIONS

1. Cut off one jean leg about 2 feet up from the hem.

Turn the leg inside out and use string to tightly tie the bottom closed.


2. Now, turn the leg right side out and glue on felt eyes and nostrils.


3. For the horse's mane and forelock, arrange 8-inch lengths of yarn into four bunches of 35 strands. Tie each bunch in the center with another strand.


4. Starting 2 inches above the horse's eyes in the center of the pant leg, cut 8 3/4-inch vertical slits (spaced a half inch apart). Weave one bunch of yarn through the first two slits, so that the ends stick out and resemble a forelock. Weave the other bunches through the remaining slits to create the mane.


5. For ears, cut the back pockets from the jeans and use string to tie the tops closed. Cut ear slits in the head and insert the tied ends of the pockets into them.


6. Stuff the horse's head (up to its ears) with polyester filling. Insert one end of the wooden dowel. Then, pack the neck with more filling and tightly tie the lower edge of the neck to the dowel. Finally, tie a string bridle around the horse's nose.

Hobby Horse # 2

Materials Needed
A piece of fabric for the horse about 22" X 21"

1 long piece of ribbon or cord for the halter and reins

2 round pieces of velcro (sold at hardware stores and fabric shops)or buttons

Fabric paint for eye, ear, mouth and nostril or use a permanent marker

Dowel stick or broom stick or an old hockey stick or a straight tree branch cut to the size required for your child

Fiber for stuffing(batting sold at fabric or craft stores)

Cotton fringe or wool pieces cut to 4 inches for the mane and forelock

White craft glue or hot glue gun (not to be used by a child)or if you want to make it more difficult use a sering machine!

Scissors
INSTRUCTIONS:
Use the pattern below It can be enlarged if needed.

Fold your fabric in half, right sides together making an 8 1/2" by 12" rectangle.

Trace the pattern and cut it out of cardboard to make a template

Put the cardboard template on the material and trace around the fabricdirectly onto the wrong side of the fabric.

This is a template so the drawn line is your sewing line.

Sew around the horses head. leave it open where marked.

Clip the curves and turn.

Place a narrow hem around the opening.

Paint or draw with marker the nose, eye and mouth

Stuff the horse head firmly leaving a slight hollow in the center to add the dowel stick later.


Place the ribbon or cord around the horse's nose using the pattern as your guide.

Use your glue gun to tack it in place or sew it. Follow the template pattern for the halter with the ribbon.



Stitch the reins part of your ribbon to the halter section at the grey circle as shown.

Loop the reins to the back of the neck and tie in a single overhand knot.

Place the two buttons or velcro one on each side of the head to cover the joint between the halter and reins.

stitch through the horse head attaching both buttons or velcro at the same time.

Add the dowel or stick by placing a good amount of white craft glue on the top several inches of the stick, or use your trusty glue gun.

Insert the stick into the hollow you left in the stuffing.

Spread some more glue on the stick at the level of the gathers to seal the stick to the fabric.

Place a double row of gathering threads about 1 1/2 inches above the hem in the opening, add more stuffing if needed.

Pull up the gathers so they fit tight around the stick and are in contact with the glue, add more glue if needed.

Tie off and trim the threads.


The mane and forelock can be made by stitching cotton fringe along the pale green line from the horse's ear to the opening and in front of the ear.

If you use yarn , wrap several times around your hand forming a loop of yarn.

This is stitched along the line until you have a pleasing mane and forelock.

You may choose to leave the yarn looped or cut the loops for a different look.


Tie a bow or a bandana around the stick to cover the gathers.


Tack stitch in place.


AN EVEN EASIER METHOD FOR THE CRAFTLY CHALLENGED


Remember to make it easier - just use a glue gun and use markers to draw on the eyes, nose and mouth. Use string, soft rope, ribbon, or braided wool for the halter and reins.

If you hate to sew - use felt instead of material for the horse head. Cut out different colored felt pieces for the eyes, nose and mouth and glue them on with your trusty glue gun.

Cut out the horse head from 2 pieces of felt and glue the edges together with...your trusty glue gun.

Glue the halter on with a few dabs of glue...with your trusty glue gun.

Stuff the head with fiber batting.

Use an elastic to bunch up the neck of the horse to the stick (use the glue gun to keep the stick in place).

Tie a bandana or wrap a long piece of felt (3 inches wide by 12 inched long around the stick which joins the neck of the horse.

Now That Was Easy!!

There are few steps as important to equine health as immunizations.

Nothing will help protect a horse from diseases as easily and effectively as vaccinations.

You help place a protective barrier between the horse and several diseases. A few of them are listed below:


Tetanus • Encephalomyelitis (sleeping sickness) • Equine influenza • Rhinopneumonitis • Rabies • Strangles • Potomac Horse Fever


Vaccines are a vital part of proper program of preventative care.

Incorporate it into a program that includes regular deworming, lots of clean water, good nutrition and a safe environment to ensure a long healthy and happy life for your horse.



OTHER HORSE DISEASES AND SYNDROMES

Respiratory Diseases

Strangles

COPD

Tetanus

West Nile Virus

Horse Colic

Mud Fever, Scratches

Navicular Syndrome

Dental Care

Dr. Ross, dental specialist

Hoof Care



Recipes of homemade horse treats for you to try. I don't mean for you to eat, they are for your best buddy, your equine companion. These are great reward ideas for clicker training These horse cookies are also a great way to fatten up a horse losing too much weight. And they are very healthy. They are fun to bake.
Bake them and put them in tightly closed jar and keep them for a few days.

No bake Treats
For the lazy ones amongst us, there are plenty of ways to pamper your companion without using the oven.
My horse likes to eat grapes and bananas.

My quarter horse won't touch anything but apples and carrots. She is very conservative.

Click on the links below for lots of Horse treat recipes And while you are spoiling your horse why not take a look at these horse horse toys too. And why stop there, why not look for some gifts for yourself or a friend by clicking on horse lovers page I will keep adding fun ideas for gift giving this Christmas.

Saddles, if they do not fit properly, can cause so many problems, never mind the general discomfort for your horse as well as for you.

It can hurt your horse physically, it can even cause him to exhibit unpleasant or dangerous characteristics. If you don't know what to look for ask a competent saddle fitter.



Signs of a Bad Fit
Here are many signs that are,simple and easy to notice.



When relaxing, does my horse have a dropped or sway back?


Is there swelling or heat under the saddle area upon removal of the saddle?

Is there raw or rubbed skin anywhere in the saddle area?

Are there any white marks or bare patches on his back?

Does he seem stiff?

Does he hold his head high and stiff, and does he seem unwilling to accept the bit or rider's aids?


Does he seem unwilling?



Is he hard to catch?


Does he jump around when being groomed, especially when you are grooming the back area?



Does he hollow his back, buck, or move away when saddled?



Does he dislike being girthed?



Does he jig when being mounted?



Does he toss his head while under saddle?


Does he refuse to walk calmly on a long rein?


Is he irritable in general?


Does he have a hard time walking up or down hills?

If you answered yes to more than one or two questions do your horse a big favor. Don't ride him until you get a better saddle. And have a vet or chiropractor take a look at him. Looking for a saddle. Check out HorseSaddleShop.com Even though this is an online store, the staff is very helpful and friendly, I have talked to them on the phone and via email. They have a huge selection and their prices are really great.



A Good Saddle Fit
A saddle should fit both horse and rider


Sitting in the saddle with a relaxed seat and legs, check to make sure you have enough room to put your hand on your thigh between your legs and the pommel. You should also be able to fit the width of your hand between the back of your body and the rear arch. With the stirrups at the normal length, there should be an imaginary line gong through your shoulder, to your hip, to the center of your horse's balance, and finally, to your heel. So now we know the saddle fits you!


There must be no contact between the saddle and the spine, which means you should see a clear channel of daylight down the spine from withers to loins.


Check the width and length. With your weight in the saddle you should be able to fit two-and-a-half or three fingers between the pommel and the horse's withers. If there is space for four fingers the tree is too narrow. If there is space for two, it is too wide. Check to see how far the saddle goes toward your horse's hip bone. It should not be so long that it rubs the hip.


The saddle should be stable and should never rock back and forth.

Because of their size and strength, horses are often misunderstood by people who don't know much about them. They often assume horses require little care - just stick them in a field and they'll be fine. They also tend to underestimate the safety aspects of being around horses - safety for both horse and human. Finally, many novice horse people, and even some experienced ones, don't understand horse behaviour and communication and so handle the horse inappropriately.

The information presented in the following fact sheets and articles is intended as an introduction to basic horse care. More detailed information is available in many excellent books and a growing number of web sites. Always remember that the primary source of health care advice for your horse should be your veterinarian who knows the specifics of your animal and your situation. If in doubt, ask your veterinarian.

One of the most interesting and most difficult aspects of horsemanship is learning to understand our horses and relate to them on horse terms. It always fascinates me that people consider themselves superior to animals and yet expect animals to learn our language rather than the other way around. Horses and dogs both learn to respond to complicated human demands but people often misinterpret basic horse and dog communication.

Building trust

As prey animals, horses have a very strong sense of self-preservation. Their instincts are to run quickly from any threat and to stay within the security of the herd. With good training and positive experiences behind him and a confident rider sitting on top, a mature horse will follow directions instead of instinct to a large extent. But we have to realize that the flight and herd instincts are just below the surface. It's our responsibility to build the trust that keeps instinct in check and the horse manageable.

Trust between people or between people and animals is built on a history of positive interaction. In order to trust someone, we have to believe they will respond consistently and appropriately in a given situation and that they will follow through with what they say. The same goes for horses. To build trust, we must respond appropriately and consistently to their behaviour or anticipated behaviour and once started on a course of action, follow through.

Understanding what horses are saying

Consistency and follow-through are simply a matter of self-discipline on our part, but appropriate response is only possible if we understand what we are responding to. In other words, we have to learn to understand what our horses are saying. After all, why should a horse trust a person who responds angrily to her fear on the one hand, or sheepishly to her bravado on the other?

Because people are verbal, we tend to dismiss other forms of communication. Horses don't use words. They don't even use sounds to any great extent. But watch horses as they interact with one another and with people. Their ears, eyes, muzzles, tails and body posture are all communicating.

Horses are social animals. As herd members, they interact with other horses continually and use a system of communication to let herd-mates know what they want and don't want. (Animal behaviourists disagree about how much animal communication is under conscious control and how much is automatic reaction to a stimulus, but that argument needn't concern us here.)

Calls, body positions, movements, and odours are all methods of communication. We can't sense the odour or chemical messages, but we can see and hear the others. Sit on the fence some sunny afternoon and be a silent spectator. See what signals you can recognize. The ability to understand horse body language makes our association with horses more rewarding and safer.

Equine body language

The most obvious signal is overall body outline. It's easy to tell the difference between the high, rounded outline of an excited horse and the flat outline of a relaxed one.

Ears

Ears are good indicators. They point in the direction of the horse's attention. Both ears pricked forward may look pretty, but when you're riding, you want at least one ear on you. Ears pinned back indicate anger or fear. (Fear and anger are closely related in people too.) Ears moving back and forth often indicate uncertainty. Some beginners misinterpret any backward pointing of the ears as anger, but it's the horse with ears flat back who's liable to kick.

Tail

The tail is also very expressive. 'High-tailing' is a well-known sign of excitement, but did you realize horses flatten their tails between their legs like dogs when frightened? A horse who scoots away from something with his tail tucked under is truly scared. Tail lashing is a sign of irritation and annoyance. A kinked tail is a sign of submissive fear and often precedes a buck.

Facial signals

More subtle for us are facial signals. In her book The Horse's Mind, Lucy Rees has a diagram of mouth and nose signals. A long nose and tight mouth show anxiety and fear. Horses will also show 'worry wrinkles' above the eyes. Watch a horse being taught something new. At first, his mouth will be tight. Then in the moment he understands, you'll often see the mouth relax and chew.

A wrinkled nose indicates annoyance and disgust. A horse threatening to bite has an open mouth and perhaps bared teeth. (Not the same as 'mouthing' in foals which is a submissive gesture.) A long nose with a slightly open mouth shows the horse wants to mutual groom, a gesture you may have seen while currying your horse. It becomes the characteristic long nose, drawn-back lower lip and extended neck when you find 'the spot'.

What I have mentioned here just skims the surface of horse communication. Thoughtful observation of horses combined with reading books and articles in such magazines as EQUUS and Practical Horseman will teach you lots. Learning to understand what our horses are telling us -- and responding appropriately -- makes a huge difference in our relationship with them.

Before you decide to buy a horse, there are a couple of things to consider. First, are you ready for a horse of your own. Secondly, can you afford to own a horse in terms of both money and time.

The first step to horse ownership is learning to ride

Are you ready for a horse? In my opinion, if you are not yet a competent rider, the answer is "no." It is fairer and safer for both you and the horse to begin your horse career on a sensible lesson horse under good instruction. This is true for both adults and children. When you have ridden enough to feel comfortable and under control at walk, trot and canter, and to know this really is how you want to spend a good chunk of your leisure time, then is time enough to think about a horse of your own. Ask your instructor whether they think you are ready. If it’s your child who wants the horse, let them help clean tack, muck out stalls and otherwise experience the work involved with horses.

Horses are expensive and time-consuming

So you’re taking lessons. Can you afford a horse? The first thing to realize is that the purchase price is only the beginning and no, your first horse is not an investment. He has to eat 365 days a year. He’ll need a farrier to trim his feet every six to eight weeks, and depending on his feet and what kind of work he’s doing, possibly shoes which really add to the cost. He’ll need deworming every couple of months, yearly innoculations, and probably annual dental care. If he gets sick or injured, you’ll have extra vet bills as well. Then you’ll need to buy tack and equipment for your horse and proper riding clothes for yourself. And those lessons are more important than ever.

A horse is expensive and time-consuming, but so are other sports. If you know up front what you’re getting into, and you have sufficient disposable income on an ongoing basis, the return in terms of enjoyment and satisfaction far outweighs the cost. You’re not buying sports equipment, you’re buying guardianship of a companion for many years to come.

Always remember, though, that you don’t have to own your own horse to enjoy horseback riding. You can take lessons on school horses while you get to know your horsey neighbours and enjoy their horses. But if you are ready, there’s nothing like a horse of your own.

Finding a first horse

Allow plenty of time for your search. You will learn a lot about horses and yourself in the process and find a more suitable horse in the end. In the beginning, temperament and soundness are the most important considerations. Your ideal horse might be a gelding or a mare of any breed or colour.

Six Steps to Horse Ownership

Learn and practice horse skills.

Decide what you are looking for.

Line up prospects.

Interview potential candidates.

Get a second opinion.

Arrange a trial period if possible.

We've already talked about the first step and I can't stress its importance enough.

Decide what you're looking for

Next make a list of the characteristics of your ideal horse, including price. Bear in mind who will be riding and what kind of horse activities they'll be pursuing. Ask your instructor for advice. As you advance in your riding career, you'll become more specialized in your interests, but at this stage, you're probably looking for a horse you can enjoy on the trail, take some lessons on, and perhaps enter local open horse shows. No stallions. No babies.

The most important criteria are that he or she is well broke and sensible. That means you're looking for a horse who's been ridden regularly by a good rider for several years. This horse is at least six or seven years old and preferably much older. Many horses today lead active lives well into their twenties. Forget the two-year-old, no matter how quiet he or she is. If you or your child is going to jump, look for a horse with jumping experience. Look for a horse you can ride now, not one you hope to be able to ride a year from now. Be realistic about your current riding level. Nothing spoils the joy of riding faster than being over-mounted. You're looking for a horse who knows more than you do but is accepting enough to let you catch up and then go on learning together.

Line up prospects

Once you have your horse's job description and qualifications, you can start looking. Ask around about horses for sale, starting with your instructor. Check the classifieds. Read bulletin boards at tack stores and stables. Don't go to auctions. If a horse sounds promising, interview the owner on the phone. Make sure they know what kind of horse you're looking for. If the horse passes the phone test, round up a horse friend and go and have a look in person.

Interview prospective candidates

First, does the horse look healthy and well cared for? Then remember that you're looking at temperament, training and soundness. Watch the owner catch him, groom him, tack him up and ride him. Then ride him yourself if you feel confident. If you're nervous about riding this horse, walk away. Don't expect the horse to behave any better when you own him than he does right now. For your first few months together, he'll probably be worse.

Get a second opinion

If you like what you see, and at first you may fall in love with every horse, arrange a second visit. Take your instructor or another knowledgeable, objective horseperson with you and listen to their advice. If you decide to buy the horse, negotiate a trial period if at all possible. In any case, have a veterinarian check the horse for soundness before you hand over the check.

When you're ready for horse ownership, finding the right horse will make the difference between a long, happy relationship and frustration and possible injury. Enjoy the search, take your time and get professional advice.

Starting the journey of all natural horse care can often seem daunting. Often it is undertaken as a last resort for horses for who traditional methods have failed. With this added pressure you want to learn the best approach for your horse, as fast as possible. This is where we help. By providing you with information on each aspect of all natural horse care within one website, so you can make informed choices easily.


How can I modify my horse's living conditions to provide
a more natural lifestyle?


How do I know which barefoot trim method is best
for my horse?


Which training program will help overcome barriers
and improve my relationship?


What feeds and supplements are best?


Should I use a horse vaccine?


Which natural horse remedies are right for my horse?
Finding the answers to questions like these can often be time consuming. So this website aims to gather all that information in one place - making that first step a little bit easier.
Natural horse care is my passion. For me it has been a wonderful journey and has opened my eyes up to a whole other world and I would like to share that with you. By making small changes you can dramatically improve your horse's life and lifespan.

Vitamins and Minerals
Below is a list of vitamins and minerals with a short description of ways in which they can be beneficial to your horse.



Vitamins

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Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
Used to fight infection and help with snake bites.
Available forms
Powdered and injectable

Dosage
As a preventative: 20g twice a day for an adult horse
With an active illness or infection: 20g four times a day for an adult horse




Minerals

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Magnesium
Useful in horses and ponies with cresty necks and fat deposits as the magnesium helps break them down. In a normal diet the ratio of calcium to magnesium should be 2:1. Horses can suffer from a magnesium deficiency if the diet contains too much calcium in relation to the magnesium.
Available forms
Organic or chelated (those found in foods, such as magnesium gluconate and magnesium asparatate) and inorganic (found in the soil, such as magnesium sulfate and magnesium oxide). The organic forms are more readily absorbed.

Dosage
Start with approx 3 grams per day for a small pony and up to 12 grams for a large/heavy horse for the first three weeks when you should see signs of changes in the fat deposits. Then the dose can be halved for 6 - 8 weeks and once the fat has normalized then a maintenance dose should be calculated based on hay/grass analysis.

If you have a young horse that’s ready to start under saddle (maybe even several young horses), you’ve probably been agonizing over whether to send it off to a trainer.

Not only is that option expensive, but it’s hard to know if you can really trust someone else with your prized animal. Or maybe you just want to be able to say, “I trained him myself!”

If you’ve been searching for sensible, easy-to-understand, NATURAL Horse Training advice, I’ve got some exciting news!

The horse industry sometimes has a lot of “smoke and mirrors.” You can watch a dozen different horse training seminars or videos and get a dozen different answers for the same problem.

Maybe all dozen answers are correct – but that doesn’t mean those methods are ones that normal folks like you and I can easily understand and repeat.

Or perhaps you’re frustrated because every time you reach for an answer to a question, you’re told to buy another video in a series or you’re told that you need to buy some outrageously expensive piece of “special” tack.

Now you CAN get a proven horse breaking system, explained in specific, easy-to-follow steps. A natural horse breaking system based on resistance-free concepts, with an emphasis on SAFETY for both you and your horse.

And on this page, I’ll show you how…

Because, let’s face it, horses aren’t just a money investment. For folks like us, they’re family. We agonize over them like we do our children. And we want the best for them.

I’ve been around horses just about all my life, since my father brought home a pony in the back seat of an old Buick car when I was 3 years old. I trained our family’s ponies when I got older, based on nothing more than advice from my older sisters (who also had no formal training) and what “felt right.”

I made a lot of mistakes. And I dealt with the results of other peoples’ mistakes in ponies and horses that were scared, aggressive, barn sour, bolters…the list of poor – even dangerous -- behaviors caused by mishandling and poor training is almost endless.

Even as a child, I realized there ought to be a better way to do it.

In recent years, because of physical problems, I can no longer start my own young horses under saddle. Since I breed horses, I suddenly found myself with several young horses that had no job in life.

In other words, a lot of expensive pasture ornaments. “Whoa!” I said to myself. “I’ve got to find a trainer for these guys.”

But when I started to research horse trainers, I got a whole new kind of education:

The horse industry, like everything else, has gotten very specialized. You can find advice on training your horse to rein, rope, halter, western pleasure, or barrel race. Good general, all-around, basic advice for just getting colts started riding is harder to find.
Trainers are expensive! Costs can range anywhere from $400 to more than $1,000 per month. And that’s usually just board and training fees. You also have transportation to and from the trainer and the other standard expenses such as farrier and vet work.


Then there’s the big issue of how to find the RIGHT trainer for your horse.
There are lots and lots of good, honest, dependable trainers who do an excellent job. But there are also a lot of so-called “horse trainers” who talk a good game and have no clue what they’re doing.

I know a number of people who have horrifying “bad trainer” experiences, ranging from horses being starved into submission to horses being beaten or spurred to the point of having permanent scars.

So, I was starting to feel a bit like one of those book characters lost in a deep Southern swamp, with no clue what direction I needed to go. Then I stumbled up on Trainer Tim Matthew.

Tim’s a soft-spoken guy who spent years working as a cowboy in Montana and other western states, breaking out ranch horses. He’s adjusted his training methods over the years into a resistance-free, logical, step-by-step system.

The more I talked with him and heard his theories, and watched him put those theories into action – the more I wished other horse people could benefit from his horse breaking wisdom.

Well, now you CAN benefit from that wisdom with Horse Training Advice: Trainer Tim Matthew’s Step-by-Step Guide.

In this 43-page book, Tim details each step of his horse breaking system for starting colts in every-day language. More than 20 close-up, high-quality photographs illustrate the various stages of his system.

There’s NO GUESSWORK with Tim’s method – you’ll know exactly what to do, when you should do it, and how you should do it -- every step of the way when you’re training your young horse.

You’ll learn the following from Tim’s horse breaking system:

The single most important command you’ll teach your young horse. (You may well be surprised at the answer to this one – I was!)


Why you must establish a “contract” with your horse every time you interact with it. This is a unique concept – and it’s the basis for everything you do with your horse.


What tools and tack you’ll need. (Hint: it’s nothing more than basic items you already should have in your tack room.)


Why you don’t need any tricks, toys, games, or expensive, “special” tack. Nada, zilch, zero. Just you, your horse, and the basic items mentioned in the bullet above.


Why you don’t ever set a time frame for training your horse. This goes against a lot of standard theories – but it allows you and your horse to progress at a pace that’s comfortable for your young horse.


Whose fault it is when your horse can’t seem to learn a certain lesson – and what you must do to correct the problem. It’s all just a matter of finding the proper way to communicate with your horse.


How to know if your young horse is ready to train under saddle. There’s no magic age when a horse is ready to ride. So, how do you know when to start?


Why consistency, patience, and consistency are so important in starting young horses. Losing your temper, lack of patience, and inconsistency are the “deal killers” in horse breaking.


How to get your young horse to respect your personal space. Do you have one of those horses that’s always stepping on you, bumping you, and otherwise showing no respect? Tim’s system is built around the concept of maintaining a safe personal space when working your colt!


What is the most dangerous thing we, as handlers, do with horses on a regular basis? Tim explains, and demonstrates ways to do it more safely.


What is the most dangerous step in saddling a horse? Again, Tim explains what this is and why, and describes the safest way to carry out this task.


Why you shouldn’t worry if your colt bucks on the lunge line the first few times he’s saddled. In fact, this behavior might be beneficial in the long run – Tim explains why.


How to teach your horse to ground tie, and why this lesson is vitally important to your entire training process. This isn’t just a “movie horse” trick – it’s something every well-started riding horse should do.


Okay, so your colt is lunging under saddle – now what? How can you tell when it’s time to get actually get on him for the first time?


Why working your young horse in repetitions of three during a training lesson is important. Tim explains how he developed this process, and explains exactly how to do it.


How do you teach your horse to flex its neck – and why is that important? (And no, you don’t leave your horse with its head tied around to the saddle for hours on end!)


Why should you limit the amount of time you lunge your horse before a lesson? Tim has a common sense explanation that ties in with his whole training process.


Why you want your horse to face you on the lunge line when you “whoa” him. Some trainers say you should never look a horse in the eye – Tim explains why that’s a fallacy.


What the “heart attack zone” is when you’ve got your young horse in the round pen. This is an important safety measure to help keep both you and your horse safe during training lessons.


How you develop enough control over your horse that grooming, handling hooves, bathing, clipping, etc., don’t become major wars. We’ve all seen those horses that have to be drugged to have their hooves trimmed, or to be clipped, right? Tim’s training process shows you how to get your horse to calmly accept these activities.


Learn an easy, simple method for sacking out your young horse. You don’t have to scare your youngster to death flapping tarps or garbage bags around him. Sacking out is a much less stressful event, using Tim’s process.


Learn why you should always “send” your horse to the left first when working in the round pen. Again, this becomes a safety issue when you’re ready to start riding your young horse.


Learn how to take your young horse from green to well-started in simple, logical stages. Tim’s training process explains how in easy language. You’ll feel like he’s sitting there talking to you.
…and more!

If you follow Tim’s horse breaking process step by step, you’ll have a well-mannered, well-started young horse when you finish – a colt that has confidence in you and that’s safe and a pleasure to ride.

Your young horse will then be ready to move on to whatever discipline you want – roping, reining, barrels, trail horse – wherever its athletic talent and your interests lie.

What does Tim mean by well-started? He says it’s a horse that “anyone who has a basic aptitude for horses will be able to ride.”


Although the term breaking is used to describe the process of training a young horse (usually a two year old) to be ridden, I prefer to think of it as "building" instead.

Like building a model airplane, training a young horse can produce a work of art if assembled with patience, but will fall apart if you try to fly it before the glue is dry. Too often progress is determined by how many rides it takes the trainer to be cantering or jumping. In reality, slower is actually faster when it comes to training horses.

Breaking two year olds at my barn is mostly a boring process. There is very little bucking and it is rare that anyone ever falls off. We do lots of groundwork before we actually get on a horse. I make sure I have the following concepts in place before I climb aboard for the first time.

Respect my space": As a herd animal, a horse expects to follow a leader, and I’m it. He must always be aware of me and I can observe this by the way he continually has an ear turned in my direction. He stops right by my side when I stop, and walks carefully beside me at the pace I choose. Just as he would never touch the alpha mare of the herd, I won’t allow him to push against me, or be oblivious to me.

Give to Pressure: It is against a horse’s nature to give to pressure. As a flight animal, what is his first reaction if he catches his blanket on a door latch? Flee! The training process counters this instinct by teaching a horse to thoughtfully submit to any resistance. I push my finger into the horse’s shoulder, ribs or hip and teach him to calmly step away from the pressure. I teach him to soften his jaw to rein pressure when I pull on each side of his mouth while I stand on the ground. I’ll reach my arm over the saddle to hold the far rein and ask over the saddle to hold the far rein and ask him to bend to that side, and then pull on both reins to teach the back up. Pressure from the halter behind his ears means to come forward to find relief, whether he is being led, tied, or ponied from another horse.

Lunging: As detailed in previous articles, lunging teaches the horse to respond to body language and to learn balanced gaits and transitions. My two year olds learn to travel in a frame with the use of side reins while going back and forth between the trot and canter on a large circle (never a tight circle).

Voice Command: I recommend keeping talk to a minimum with horses. Nattering away to horses is like the boy who cried "wolf"! When you really do want them to listen to a specific command, they will tune you out. I have approximately five words/sounds which, when learned in the groundwork phase, ease the transition to leg and rein aids under saddle. One of these is "whoa" which means stop without taking another step.

Desensitization: The cowboy term for this is "sacking out". Using a saddle pad, lunge line, or rope, I’ll gently and rhythmically slap it against the horse side, shoulder or legs until he no longer shows any reaction. Gradually the horse becomes accustomed to grain bags, filled with noisy, jingling items, tied to the saddle as he’s lunged around.

I make it my goal to never skip steps in the training process. I only make a request of the horse I know I can win, because if you ever lose, you can go backwards in your training, and can possibly cause fear and confusion. It’s kind of like picking up the pieces of that smashed model airplane and gluing it together again!


General Horse Training Tips:

Pay close attention to your horse’s diet. Hotter blooded horses require less protein. If overfed they can become too " high."
Teach your horses to lead properly. There is a bubble around you they cannot invade -unless invited.
Don’t turn your horses into beggars and muggers with treats. Feed from a bucket, not your hand.
Learn how to properly reprimand your horse, if necessary. Beginning with a shhhhhhhh noise lets the horse know he’s getting out of bounds.
Learn Frank Bell’s 'ballet on the ground' and in the saddle, as safety becomes an artful dance.


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Discover The Horse You Never Knew

A properly executed one rein stop can prevent run-aways, bucking, rearing, balking, and undesired backing.
Desensitizing your horse never ends. How creative are you?
A horse that drives well will be easier to load into a trailer.
Helping a horse overcome fear instills heightened horse/rider confidence.
Head high = uptight horse, Head low = relaxed horse. Teach your horse to drop his head!
A horse working his mouth, licking his lips, is a sign of understanding and relaxation.
Horses enjoy having their eyes, ears, nose, and mouth massaged.
A well-prepared horse will invite you to go riding. Watch for the invitation.
Get a feel for the word feel.

Communication in the Saddle

When you and your horse are really together, your wishes will transfer from your mind to your horse’s mind.
Your reins may be the last thing you use to stop or steer your horse.
Don’t kick your horse. Tell him to go with your body language.
Point your belly button in the direction you want to go.
Think 'less is more' all the time and you’ll get there.
Never use the bit to balance yourself.
You should be able to stand out of the saddle at any and all times without a lunge forward or pulling on mane or bit to raise yourself. Balance.
Have a slide show of just what you want in your mind as you work with your horses.
Understand Frank Bell’s 3-T’s of communication. A full understanding of the Theory must come first. Why are you doing what you are doing? Next learn the specific Technique to convey your wishes to the horse. Improve your Timing.
The horse learns from the release of pressure. Timing is critical.
Always quit your session on a good note, even if it means doing something very simple.
Smile a lot. Remember, this is about recreation.

Spooking/Shying

Spooky horses lack confidence and experience.
Your confidence travels right through your body into your horse’s. Build your own confidence and you'll build your horse's as well!
Your horse’s greatest fear can become your greatest asset.
Your calm, confident horse can help settle your spooky one.
Change your horse’s mind when on the verge of 'melting down', like a child on the verge of a tantrum. Pull the horse’s mind away from that problem by distracting in the opposite direction.
You can support your horse through much more than you realize. Always begin your de-spooking on the ground first. Understand Frank Bell’s 3-T’s of communication: Theory, Technique, Timing. (Explained above).

Trailer Loading

A well-lit trailer, sun or artificial light can aid in loading. A dark trailer is scary, especially the first time.
With a new trailer, add some horse smells i.e. manure, hay, tack, blankets etc.
Adequate headroom is of utmost importance. Be fair. Measure the horse and trailer before purchasing the wrong one.
Drive your horse over stacked railroad ties to teach to step-up into the trailer.
One foot solidly on a loading ramp leads to a loaded horse, with patience.
Better to load a horse part way the first time than all the way in. Use " baby steps" .
Once loaded, be certain the horse understands he can move his feet.
A horse well prepared horse to load will save hours, headaches, and vet bills in the future, let alone embarrassment.
Do a solid assessment of your trailer’s danger zones. Sharp objects, hoof catchers, etc.
Be careful where you tie your horse to the trailer. Are there any sharp objects nearby?
Always double check all your hook-ups, mechanical, electrical, and tires before departing. You cannot be too careful.
Take a moment to think carefully before unloading a horse. I prefer this sequence for unloading- butt bar, untie lead, open door. If the door is opened before untying the horse, some horse will try to back out and freak out when they feel tied in.
Ride in the back of the trailer to see/feel what the horse experiences.
Tap the brake lightly before a stop or turn. This allows the horse to prepare.
Never hurts to have the horse’s favorite food in the trailer when they load up.
Slant loads stress horses less than straight loads. It’s the way they balance naturally in an open stock trailer.
Be able to lead or drive your horse into the trailer. It’s much safer to drive the horse in. (Keeps your sunday shoes cleaner as well.)

Solving 7 Common Horse Problems

There are two types of problems. One is caused by fear or ignorance. The second is a willful act of defiance. The first must be addressed using patience and empathy. Feel the horse’s fear and help him through it lovingly. The willful horse must bump right into the brick wall the very moment he begins his defiance. Set it up for his bad behavior to be uncomfortable. Learn how to appropriately reprimand a horse.
There are times you’ll never catch a horse that has decided not to be caught. Don’t act like the predator that you are. Use soft, non threatening eyes when approaching.
Pull-back horses usually don’t lead well.
While a horse is eating he is less afraid of ear handling, spray, and clippers. Helping him work his mouth, using food in really bothered situations, can be helpful and fast.
Before asking for a foot, ask the horse to prepare to give it. All four feet on the floor.
Only release the foot when you are ready and place exactly where you want it.
A dollop of molasses on a bit makes it a more pleasant experience, especially for hard to bit or first time horses.
On a cold day a bit warmed up in your armpit shows you care.
If a horse is fed and made comfortable right after each ride, where will he or she prefer to be?
Make being away from the barn a fun, educational adventure.
Give your horse a good foot massage prior to trimming or shoeing.

Mounting the Difficult Horse/Problem Foot Handling

Always mount and dismount with mane and rein in hand.
Teach your horse to accept being mounted from either side. You may have to dismount on a hill someday.
Teach your horse to accept being mounted from a block, stump, fence or anywhere.
Only your toe in the stirrup when mounting and dismounting.
Make it uncomfortable for your horse to walk-off when mounting. Make it very comfortable to stand perfectly still.
Never allow your horse to walk off when mounted until you are ready. Who is in charge here?
Rock in the saddle in prior to dismounting. Lets the horse know its coming.
A horse’s right rear foot is the farthest point from his brain. Run your hand under the horse’s tail prior to asking for a back leg. Then run your hand all the way down the horse’s leg prior to asking. A soft tail usually signifies a cooperative horse.
Only release the hind foot when the horse is totally relaxed and will allow you to set it down with no weight on it.
Give your horse a good foot massage prior to trimming or shoeing or just because you like him and he’d appreciate it.

Retraining the Racehorse

Most racehorses have had little foundation work.
Assume there has been little or inadequate training and start from the beginning.
Your hand in the air translates into pain for most racehorses. They were whipped to win and lose alike. Help them get over this.
Many racehorses have drugs in their systems that can take months to dissipate.
Large groups of horses, loud speakers, flags, etc. all mean go fast to the ex-racehorse. Help them learn to tolerate these distractions, intelligently. Don’t overload the horse.
Racehorses can be brought back to become magnificent all around well-adjusted happy creatures with patience and empathy.
Three to six month turn-out does wonders for horses just off the track.
Be certain the ex-racehorse has plenty of room to move and play and be a horse. Don’t keep your horses locked up in cells (stalls).
Assess the food issue. Too much hot foot (high protein) can slow progress. Consider beet pulp to keep weight on those wired Arabs and thoroughbreds.
Long quiet rides with other quiet horses does wonders for racehorses. Don’t ride with fidgety, nervous horses, especially in the beginning.

Water and Bridge Crossing

Mustangs don’t fear water, but have little bridge experience.
Horses that leap over small creeks are very dangerous. Fix it! Make your horse go slow, step by baby step.
Horses comfortable with water will roll and play in it and enjoy a bath, especially on a hot day.
Give your horse a bath on a hot day in an indentation. By the time it’s over the horse is standing in a puddle. Then lead and drive the horse through the puddle.
Teach your horse to walk over a folded tarp quietly. Unwrap the tarp one fold, then lead and drive again, etc. Stay with it until the horse can quietly walk across an entire tarp. This will make crossing water much easier.
Loud hoof sounds on a bridge are more frightening than the bridge. Teach your horse to deal with the sounds well before you approach the challenge, by leading and driving the horse across plywood. Make it a fun game.
When crossing a bridge, focus on the other side and ride straight to it with energy. Don’t look over the side.
Helping your horse enjoy water will do wonders for everyone’s confidence.

Starting the Young Horse

Wear a helmet!
A well-prepared horse (fully understanding Frank Bell’s 7 Steps) is already on the 90 yard line when it’s time to ride.
Teach your young horse go, whoa, back, and to plow rein before mounting.
Drive the horse in a circle with lariat tied to horn. Pull hard to prepare horse for saddle movement and binding of the girth. Then run lariat through stirrup to horn and flap stirrups as horse learns to move quietly.
Drive horse through his transitions in round pen while saddled. Watch for smooth transitions, soft eyes, ears, and tail set.
Leaning over a horse from a fence or hay bale will prepare that horse for seeing you overhead, and then in the saddle, which can be a shock.
Depending on age and size of your horse, keep those first rides short and fun.
Always leave each session on a good note even if it means doing something very simple. It's a win for you and your horse.
Lavish praise speeds up the learning process by 60%!
Remember, the long way is the short way. (Thanks Tom.)
Always perform Frank Bell’s 7 Steps prior to riding this or any horse. Your safety is of highest importance.

Working With Young Horses

You can’t begin working with a horse too early in life, but be sensitive. Expose the youngster to all kinds of stimuli. It’s all part of life.
The younger the horse, the shorter the session.
Read the youngster’s attitude and keep the session fun and interesting.
More short sessions per day are better than longer ones.
A simple piece of baling twine is a very useful tool for teaching pressure and release and beginning foot handling.
Keeping young horses close to their mamas. Helps them stay calm during the short training sessions.
Help your horse enjoy your hands all over their bodies. Explore for what they like and don’t like. Help them through their difficult, distrusting places.
Don’t create beggars and muggers with treats.

Horse breaking, sometimes called starting or gentling, refers to the process used by humans to get horses to let themselves be ridden or harnessed. Before such a learning process is accomplished, a horse will normally reject attempts to ride it. Once a horse has accepted basic handling by humans, additional forms of horse training can be used to teach the horse any number of specialized skills.

Many horse riders will know the problems that come with owning a lively horse. They won’t stand still when you want to mount, they jog everywhere rather than walk, and catching them in the field can be a real headache. However, there are a number of ways that you can help to calm your lively horse.


When leading a lively horse in hand, there is always the worry that they will try to run off with you. The problem is that horses are very much stronger than people. Therefore you have to overcome the problem without using strength. When leading a horse you should always put them in a bridle and bit with the reins over their head, rather than a headcollar. This will give you more control if they do play around. If you are on the road you should walk on the outside of the horse between him and the cars. That way if he tries to swing his back end into the road you can push it back with your body. A good tip to stop your horse from running away is to keep your elbow in the groove of his shoulder. If he attempts to barge, you can push your elbow in gently which will disable him from being able to get past you. This will enable you to stop him without having to use any strength.



Many horses are reluctant to be caught from the field and will play cat and mouse with you. Some useful tips should stop you from having to play his games. Firstly you should not let him see the headcollar or bridle. Walk towards him with it behind your back. That way he won’t be alerted to the fact that you are intending to take him out of the field.


Secondly, your body language can help. If he is a nervous horse, walk towards him slowly with your shoulders slightly tilted and your head to one side. Do not make direct eye contact with him as this is an aggressive move for animals. As you get close to him, hold out your hand. Do not grab at his head. It is best to pat him first before taking hold of him and leading him out of the field.


If, on the other hand, he is a playful horse who would just rather be eating grass than going out for a hack, it is best to walk towards him confidently so that he knows you mean business. As you get close, walk alongside his neck and purposefully take hold of him. If you have real trouble even getting near him, then it might help if you take along a small amount of feed in a box and shake it to attract him. However, you should not do this every time you catch him because he might begin to nip at you when you don’t have food.


Trying to get onto a lively horse can be a nightmare and can result in some embarrassing bruises. It might be helpful to find something that you can use as a mounting block so that you are nearer to the saddle. If you can’t, then the best thing to do is to line the right hand side of your horse up near to a wall, take hold of the left cheek strap gently pulling his head towards you and then mount. He may want to walk round in a circle but because he is next to a wall he won’t be able to. As you mount, make sure it is one swift movement, and don’t land heavily in the saddle. This will startle him rather than calm him!


Once you have successfully mounted your horse, the best advice is to keep calm, sit deep in the saddle and ride quietly. By this I don’t mean that you must not talk but rather that you must sit softly. Try to keep your legs away from his sides so as not to kick him on at all. Keep your rains taut so that you have good control but don’t pull on his mouth. If you have problems with getting him to stand still, you should try to make him stand every now and again. Have patience and don’t give up until he has stood completely still for 3 seconds. Then you can reward him for being good.


Finally, here are some general tips. Check that you are giving your horse the right amount and type of food. If he is eating too much this may be making him more lively. Ensure that he is having enough exercise. If you are not riding him enough this may be a cause of his itchy feet when you do take him out. Try to always act calmly around him. Spend a lot of time grooming him and talking to him so that he trusts you. And be patient - it will take time to build up a good understanding between the two of you. You need to teach him that you want him to be calm, so you must reward him when he is, but don’t get angry when he isn’t.

Many people who are training horses will ask them questions that the horse has no way of understanding or answering. Then they will fight with the horse or hold him hostage until the horse either gives in or gives up. The so-called trainer walks away feeling like he or she has won the game because the horse finally did what they wanted him to do. But no actual communication took place. What happened was "breaking" not training.

When you break a horse rather than train it, you get a trained flea. What do I mean by that? Well, you start training fleas by putting them in a jar. You know they are going to jump and if they do that, they'll jump out of the jar. So you put a lid on the jar.

Now when the fleas jump, they hit their heads on the lid. Being smart fleas, they learn not to jump so high. Now you can take the lid off and they won't jump out. Voila! You have trained your fleas not to jump so high. That is exactly what you do when you "break" a horse.

A lot of people train horses this way. They condition the horse to random tasks one by one. They do not do it in a systematic way that is logical to the horse.

Remember that horses have very simple minds. They can only connect a cause-and-effect sequence of about two steps. To be horse logical, the next thing you teach a horse can never be more than one step away from the thing you just taught him and not more than two steps away from the thing before that.

It should be easy for the horse to understand how to do the next thing you want to teach him because it should flow naturally from the last thing he learned. It should be horse logical for him to behave in a certain pattern. He shouldn't have to guess about what you want until he accidentally gets it right. He shouldn't have to stress himself mentally or physically until he learns to do the "correct" thing by avoiding the "incorrect" thing.

At Meredith Manor we teach our horses a "language" based on their body position relative to ours. The horse first learns on the ground that certain body language on our part calls for him to be in a certain position relative to our own. With this as a basis for understanding, we gradually shift the concepts of mirroring the trainer and working in a corridor of aids from ground work to under saddle work and eventually to whatever game we ultimately want the horse to play.

Horse showing is a game a lot of people like to play with their horses. Someone defines some rules, prescribes a set of mannerisms, and the guys whose horses come the closest to those prescribed mannerisms are the winners. When it gets too easy to win, the somebodies change the rules so it takes something different to win the game. And everybody's off again. Horse show rules are no more logical than the rules we make up for football or basketball. They're all just artificial rules that can get changed at any time.

We teach our horses to perform according to these prescribed mannerisms to make them competitive at the horse show game. When you are training, it is important to remember that producing a prescribed mannerism should not be your highest goal. The way you mentally and physically gymnasticize the horse is the real game. The horse show mannerisms are only a way for you to demonstrate that you and your horse are physically and mentally prepared.

If you've only learned to duplicate the mannerisms, you and your horse are going to be left behind when the somebodies change the rules. If your horse was properly trained, horselogically gymnasticized both mentally and physically, you'll be able to adjust to the new game rules.

As your horse's trainer, you mentally take command of the horse's muscle and strength and use it to play whatever the game you want to play with your horse. Whether it's polo, cutting, reining, jumping, pole bending, barrel racing or whatever other game you're playing, the real game is the interaction between you and the horse. It is about mental, not physical control. And that control has to be methodical and horse logical for you and the horse to play the game as well as you can.

Training horses is about developing the horse's mental attitudes to the point where they enjoy playing the same games that you do. That means taking mental control of your horse. The controlling factor is not strength, not size, not speed. The horse is ten times stronger, bigger and faster than we are.

Let other people be the ones who jerk on horses and slap them around or hassle them until they've "learned" something. You want to be the one who can communicate with the horse using horse logical emotions, horse logical shapes and change them from what they aren't into what they can be by using what they are to start with. Training is about what to do rather than about what not to do.


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Cribbing is when a horse grabs the edge of a fence rail, stall ledge or post top with his incisors, and arches his neck. Although cribbing and windsucking (gulping air) are often used synonymously, they are thought to be separate behaviors. "Unlike formerly thought, McGreevy (McGreevy, P.D., Radiographic and endoscopic study of horses performing an oral based stereotypy. Equine Vet Journal 27:92-95.) determined that windsucking (aerophagia) does not occur during cribbing." (from Horse Behavior, 2nd edition, George Waring). It has been suggested that when a horse cribs, his body releases endorphins, natural "drugs" which stimulate the pleasure center of his brain so cribbing becomes an addictive habit. Generally cribbing is considered "incurable" because the horse receives a "reward" ("pleasure drug") every time he cribs. Cribbers are usually hard keepers (they would rather crib than eat) and can be prone to colic. It is necessary to use consistent, specific means to deal with a cribbing horse - cribbing collars and possibly surgery or the long term use of pharmaceuticals.

Wood chewing is when a horse gnaws wood fences, feeders, stall walls, or posts. This is destructive to facilities and the horse can suffer colic from eating wood splinters. Some horses really turn into beavers! Wood chewing is common in foals as they test their first incisors and also when their temporary incisors begin to be replaced at 2 1/2 years of age. To keep wood chewing from developing into a life long habit and to prevent a horse from "discovering" cribbing, provide the horse a well-balanced ration with minerals and plenty of long-stem hay for roughage, especially during cold, wet weather. Horses who are satiated with roughage are much less likely to chew wood. Be sure the horse gets plenty of exercise, with time out on pasture if possible.

Protect all wood that the horse comes in contact with. You can do this by covering the wood with sturdy metal edging or use electric fence to keep the horse away from the fence rails altogether.

And yes, you can and should treat wood with various "potions" to make wood less palatable. An effective commercial product is Dyco-Sote, available in dark brown and clear. Even confirmed beavers leave wood treated with Dyco-Sote alone. To deter first-time nibblers, you can try rubbing a strongly scented bar of soap (like Irish Spring) over the area. If you try the commonly recommended home remedy of oil and chili sauce, be careful because if you or your horse get the substance in your eyes or nose, it WILL burn! And believe it or not, some horses chew MORE after chili oil has been applied to wood!!

Cribbing, also known as wind sucking or aerophagia, is a destructive habit in horses usually caused by boredom and stress and possibly stomach acidity. Once a horse gets addicted to this habit, there is no surefire remedy for breaking it. You know a horse is cribbing when it grasps any solid object, or even its own foreleg with its front teeth, arches its neck, and then gulps to force air into its throat. According to research, a horse receives a hit of endorphins when it cribs, and gets hooked to the habit. Cribbing can be compared to similar to obsessive-compulsive disorders in humans. While wild horses rarely crib, domestic horses kept in small-enclosed spaces for long periods of time and not allowed graze naturally are more likely to form such habits such as cribbing.

It is almost impossible to completely stop a horse from cribbing. No one remedy or combination of remedies has proved to be fully effective in stopping this disorder. A remedy can only minimize damage done to your horse's health.

A very effective way of preventing a horse from cribbing is allowing it to live in the most natural environment possible. Free access to pasture grass or plentiful hay will satisfy the horse's normal instinct to graze. It will remove a lot of stress and boredom from the horse and it will begin to feel more at ease.

One of the many products available in the market to stop a horse from cribbing consists of straps that are placed around the horse's throat area, and are known as "cribbing straps". These straps neither hurt the horse, nor do interfere with eating or breathing. The straps put pressure on the horse's throat when it starts cribbing. This pressure annoys some horses who decide to stop cribbing. Even then, many horses tolerate this pressure and do not stop cribbing.

Anyone who has combated the cribbing vice before knows that it can be an incredibly difficult habit to remove from a horse, particularly if the vice was allowed to take root. Luckily there are a few different weapons you can arm yourself with on your quest to conquer the habit that afflicts your equine friend.

First it's important to understand that no single technique or product can definitely solve your horse's problem. Each horse is an individual and what may work for one horse may not work for another. Another factor that can affect success rates is how ingrained the habit is - if a horse just picked up cribbing recently he will be far easier to cure than a horse that has been cribbing for many years.

Some of the most common aids in breaking your horse from the cribbing habit are:

Distractions and/or Food

Boredom is the most common reason why a horse will pick up the cribbing habit; they need to eat throughout the day and keep their minds active lest they become bored and stressed. Whereas distractions such as horse toys and food work better as preventative measures than they do as cures, if your horse just picked up the habit you can attempt to distract him with multiple feedings, pasture time and toys before the habit becomes ingrained.

Unfortunately if your horse is a long-time cribber chances are these won't break him from the habit – at most it will lessen his cribbing sessions as he eats instead.

Cribbing Straps

Cribbing straps are leather straps that go around a horse's upper neck to place pressure against the larynx area when a horse attempts to arch his neck and intake air. These straps are generally not uncomfortable when the horse isn't expanding his neck to crib, and sometimes a die-hard cribber will even overlook the annoyance of the crib strap to wind suck anyways!

Even if your crib strap stops your horse from cribbing while it is on, if he's a die-hard cribber it certainly doesn't stop him from cribbing once it is taken off. Nonetheless, while crib straps aren't perfect, they do succeed in suppressing many cribbers, so it's an inexpensive option that's worth a try.

Electro-Shock Collars

These collars are worn around the upper neck just like a crib strap, but when the owner and/or handler pushes a button on a remote control unit the strap emits an electric shock. The idea is to shock the horse each time he takes hold of a fence to crib.

Going beyond the debate as to whether such a course is actually inhumane, these fairly expensive collars are unfortunately not all that effective. It will almost certainly discourage the horse from cribbing when he's in front of you after a few shocks, but horses are more intelligent than many people give them credit for. Your horse will learn that it's not wise to crib in front of you, but once you're out of sight it's safe to call it open season on the fences once again. Unless you can stay there 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to consistently shock your horse anytime he cribs, he's going to know the fence isn't what is causing the shock… you are! If anything he'll choose his times more carefully, but not break the actual habit.

Electric Fencing

Stringing electric fencing along the top of any paddock and/or pasture fences is a wonderful and completely effective way to stop them from cribbing on fences. Unfortunately if there are other edges to take hold of (such as inside a stable) the horse can just move on to a "safer" area. Even with that small loophole open to some horses, electric fencing is highly encouraged since it will effectively stop cribbing in its tracks on the protected locations.

Chew Stop And Related Products

There are some non-toxic products that can be sprayed or painted on popular cribbing areas to lend a very unappetizing taste and smell, thereby discouraging a cribber from taking hold of the area. Chew Stop is one of the more effective products; another popular option is Bitter Apple. The only problem with these paints and sprays is some horses can get over the flavor (particularly Bitter Apple) and they must be re-applied from time to time as eventually they lose their potency. That being said, I highly recommend trying these products out in your barn. Since they are sprays, they can be applied to any surface that metal strips or electric fencing can't reach.

Modified Forssell's Procedure

The modified Forssell's procedure is a surgical procedure that entails cutting some of the muscles and nerves in the ventral neck region as well as the removal of some muscle tissue. This makes it far more difficult for a horse to contract his larynx and crib, and whereas it sounds drastic it's actually a rather safe procedure that rarely creates any cosmetic problems.

A horse undergoing this procedure may need to be hospitalized for up to four days, and so far the success rates for this procedure are promising: 60% of the patients are cured completely while 25% are not cured but are helped significantly.

Naloxone

Naloxone is an injected anti-depressant that prohibits the creation of endorphins, thereby suppressing the natural high a horse gains when he cribs. This is not a practical solution since the effects are short-lived, but further research is being done on similar drugs that may have a longer lasting effect.

Finally, if your horse suddenly picks up cribbing and doesn't seem to have developed it from one of the normal causes (example from another cribbing horse or boredom) it would be a good idea to ask your veterinarian to check your horse and make sure there isn't a medical cause for the cribbing.

Are "foot" and "hoof" the same thing?

Foot refers to the hoof and all its internal structures including bones and sensitive structures. Hoof is only the hard outside covering of the foot including the wall, the sole and the frog. The hoof has no blood supply or nerves.

Inside the hoof are the sensitive structures which produce and nourish the hoof and attach it to the bones of the foot.

What hoof care do I need to provide for my horse?

Cleaning

A hoofpick is probably the most important tool in a grooming kit. Always clean your horse’s hooves before and after riding. Whether or not they are ridden, horses kept in stalls or confined areas should have their hooves picked out daily to prevent thrush. Horses on pasture should have their feet cleaned periodically.

Trimming

Like our fingernails, a horse’s hooves grow continuously. They need to be trimmed every six to eight weeks to keep them in proper shape.

Trimming is a job for a trained farrier. An inexperienced person can easily trim the hoof wall too short or pare too much sole, causing the horse to be sore. More importantly, the hoof must be balanced precisely to the horse’s natural way of going or he’s going to end up lame. The skill required to keep a hoof properly balanced takes a lot of training and practice to develop. In the long run, it’s cheaper to pay for a good farrier than risk ruining your horse.

Shoeing

Horses who are doing a lot of work or working on hard ground will need to be shod. Some horses with weak hoof walls, flat soles or other problems might need shoes even if they’re not working. Consult your farrier or veterinarian for advice.

Shoes need to be reset every six to eight weeks. Leaving them on too long can damage the hoof. If a shoe comes loose without coming off completely, it can also injure the horse. (Never pull off a loose shoe without cutting the clinches first.)

What hoof problems should I watch for?

Most foot problems can be avoided with proper care. Keep your horse on clean, dry footing. Feed him properly. Pick out his feet on a regular basis. Have his hooves trimmed or shod regularly by a competent farrier. Protect his feet with properly fitted shoes and pads if necessary.

Thrush and Canker

Thrush, the more common of the two, is an infection of the frog. Canker (hoof rot) is an infection of the whole foot. You’ll recognize both from a foul odour and discharge from the disintegrating frog. Both are caused by keeping a horse in wet, dirty conditions.

If you find that your horse is just starting a thrush infection, you can treat it with brush-on medications available in tack stores. For more advanced cases, consult your veterinarian or farrier.

Corns and Bruised Sole

Corns are caused by constant, small repeated pressures to a part of the foot. Common causes are a poor shoeing job or shoes that are left on too long.

Bruises are caused by a single, traumatic blow to the foot, such as stepping on a piece of gravel. Bruising is more likely to happen if the horse has naturally flat soles, or if the sole and frog have been pared too thin in trimming.

If the bruise or corn has not abscessed, removing the cause of the problem is usually all the treatment required. If your horse bruises easily, he may need protective shoes and pads.

Abscesses

If your horse suddenly goes dead lame on one foot, an abscess is the most probable cause. It could be caused by a puncture wound or by a corn or bruise.

Your veterinarian will drain the abscess and prescribe follow-up treatment. She will probably also give the horse a tetanus shot.

Cracks

Cracks in the hoof wall can start at the bottom and go up or at the top and go down. The seriousness of a crack depends on how deep it goes and where it is located. If the crack is deep enough that it bleeds after the horse has exercised, infection is likely.

Cracks that start at the top of the foot are due to disturbances in hoof growth resulting from coronet injuries such as wirecuts. Cracks that start at the bottom of the foot are caused by dry or thin hoof walls or improper trimming.

Serious cracks may require corrective shoeing.

Seedy Toe

Seedy toe is a separation of the hoof wall from the white line in the toe region causing a hole between the hoof wall and the sensitive laminae. The outside of the hoof wall looks sound, but the inside becomes crumbly.

Poor foot care is the most common cause. Seedy toe is easily caused when the hoof wall is allowed to grow too long. It also commonly occurs with chronic laminitis.

Laminitis or Founder

Laminitis, commonly called founder, is an acutely painful inflammation of the foot. It occurs most often in the front feet although it can affect the hind feet as well. The most common cause is overeating. More information

Navicular Disease

If your horse is lame on and off with no apparent cause, your veterinarian may suspect navicular disease. The pain is caused by degeneration of the navicular bone, a small bone inside the foot, and the tendon which passes over it.

Keeping horses at home has advantages and disadvantages. I have kept my horses in boarding stables and at home and can speak from both sides. When you interact with your horse every day, when you're the one who brings the food, when you can watch your horse just being a horse, you share a deeper understanding. At the stable, you only see your horse for a couple of hours a day and in a very structured environment. I find my approach to my horse is more businesslike at a stable because we're there to ride and train. At home, everything is more relaxed. Sometimes so relaxed I never get around to riding!

For me, the best of both worlds is to keep my horse at home during the summer and boarded at a stable with an indoor arena for the winter. If you are thinking of doing that, now is the time to check out stables and book a stall. If you wait until January, you may be out of luck.

When you're looking after your own horse, you can't, on a whim, decide to stay downtown after work and go to a movie. If your horse is unwell, you are the one who has to recognize that something is wrong. You have to decide when to call the veterinarian. You have to be there for the farrier. In other words, the full weight of responsibility of looking after a delicate life is on your shoulders.

Some people are very blasé about the whole thing. They've been very lucky and never had to deal with a horse emergency. Perhaps they don't know enough about horses to realize what could happen or don't care anyway. But most of us are very aware of the responsibility, especially if we've dealt with a colicking horse at 11 o'clock at night. I always advise new horse owners to start by boarding their horse at a good stable where they'll have support.

Veterinarians and farriers are vital allies in looking after our horses and it's important to build an ongoing relationship. A late night emergency call should not be the first contact with a veterinarian. While it might seem cheaper at the time to do innoculations ourselves, booking an annual veterinary visit has long term benefits. Horses' hooves need trimming and shoes reset if the horse is shod, every six to eight weeks. Rather than waiting until the hooves look long, or crack, or a shoe falls off, isn't it better to set up a regular schedule with a farrier and stick to it?

Typically in a boarding stable, routine veterinary and farrier care is provided for many horses at once. For example, a farrier might spend a whole morning at one barn, basically setting up his portable blacksmith's shop and attending to the hooves of one horse after another. Contrast that with going to an acreage for a single horse. (Keeping horses alone is another issue.) Hopefully the owner has the horse waiting in a barn or corral. Sometimes, an inconsiderate owner waits until the farrier arrives before going out into the pasture to catch the horse, who is perhaps standing knee deep in a slough. In the worst case scenario, the owner has forgotten about the appointment and the farrier has made the trip for nothing.

If you keep your horse in an acreage subdivision as many of us do, why not coordinate routine veterinary and farrier visits with neighbouring horse owners? Your vet or farrier will appreciate being able to make several calls in the same area instead of wasting time travelling. A good relationship with these professionals makes looking after a horse much easier.

I hope my guide helps!!!!

P.S.

All horses are members of the Equidae family, belonging to the modern genus Equus; within this they are classified as Equus caballus. Under the heading of Equus caballus, the horse is further categorized into different breeds. The term "breed" describes a group of animals that share distinctive inherited characteristics. Each breed has common ancestors, and therefore has a similar genetic makeup. There are natural breeds and artificial breeds.

Natural breeds are animals that through natural selection, have evolved characteristics specific to their survival within their differing habitats, and have passed these down to the next generations. An example of this is the Basque or Pottock pony, which grows thick whiskers on its top lip during the winter, protecting them from the prickly plants they live off when food is short.

Artificial Breeds Many modern breeds, however, are largely artificial—man has selected certain characteristics from different individuals, and through a process of cross-breeding, has created horses with qualities suitable for specific purposes.

The Studbook Breed societies regulate the breeding process requirements and keep the studbook. The breed society has requirements in respect of size, conformation, action, and in some cases color, that need to be exhibited for a horse to be rcognized as part of that breed. There are two types of studbook—open and closed. An open studbook allows a horse bred from parents of a different registered breed to be eligible for a particular breed, providing it meets the requirements. A closed studbook only allows a horse to be registered if both its parents are registered. This type of studbook keeps a breed much purer, and a good example of this is the Arabian studbook.

Developent of Horse Breeds Horse breeds developed into groups as people bred animals to perform fundamental tasks. The heavy draft horse was developed for agricultural work, adn became highly specialized in this field. An offshoot for this was the light draft horse, which was suitable for both light agricultural work and draft work. The harness, or carriage, horse evolved as a lighter, faster breed suitable for harness work and light haulage. The saddle horse, as its name suggeste was the ideal riding horse.

The modern horse was brought to America by the Spanish explorers. These horses were imported into Spain by the Arabs, so the ancestors of the mustang were hot-blooded Arabians. The Arabian horse also, through war, spread to the Shetland Isles and Iceland. The steppes horses remained small and coarse. The European "Great Horse" was the foundation of the slow-moving, cold-blooded draft breeds.

As the need for specific breeds and types of horses arose the various modern horses were developed. The English wanted a fast horse for sport so they developed the Thoroughbred. When the roads improved and more speed was in demand, the great coach horses of England gave way to the lighter harness types such as hackneys.

Some breeds of horses, such as Plantation Walker, were developed for pleasure. The owners of the large plantations of the South wanted a stylish, gentle breed of horse. Some breeds have been developed for sport and competitions: the English developed the Thoroughbred, the Americans created a Quarter Horse which was could start in an instant and run a a quarter mile at top speed. The Russians developed the Orlov Trotter.

Today, there has been much interbreeding between the different main groups as the emphasis now is on producing good riding horses. There are also different pony breeds, and these too fall into different groups, with some breeds being more suitable for riding and some for driving, while many are "ride and drive" breeds, such as the Welsh ponies, which excel in both.

Blood Types There are three different blood types that a horse may be described as having—hot, cold, or warm. The hot-blooded horse is typified by the Arab or the Akhal-Teke. This is a fine-boned and fast horse, often with a fiery temperament. Having originated in desert climates, they are resistant to extreme heat and commonly have a very thin skin and coat. The coldblooded horse originated in Northern Europe and is typified by heavy draft horse such as the Saffolk Punch or the Shire. They are big, strong-bodied horses with a calm and docile temperament. The warmblood is a a mixture of the two with a ancestors from both the hot and cold blood types, ans is typified by the Trakehner and the Danish Warmblood.

Definition of a Type There are various types of horse or pony that are not breeds, but do have specific characteristics. A "type" is a horse or pony that is suitable for a particular job, but can in fact be of any breed. For example, a hack can be any well-proportioned horse with quality, often with a high degree of Thoroughbred blood. Similarly a hunter can be any horse that hunts, although they do uniformly need the qualities of stamina and bravery. Often when assessing a horse, it is quite straightforward to say what type it is without knowing its specific breed.

THE COB There are two breeds of the cob, the Welsh Cob and the Norman Cob, but there is also a type of horse called a cob, and they mainly come from Ireland and England. These types do not have a set breeding pattern, and can be produced by various crosses; they do, however, have similar charcteristics. The cob is easily spotted and there are classes at many of the top shows in England specifically for the cob, divided into lightweight, heavyweight and working cob. Generally, a cob is the result of an Irish Draft cross, although some cobs are pure Irish Draft, some are bred from Welsh Cobs, and some are derived from a heavy horse crossed with a Thoroughbred or Cleveland Bay. This type displays an attractive face and short, arched necks.

THE HACK A hack is a supremely elegant type of showhorse. The majority of hacks are actually Thoroughbreds, or Thoroughbreds crossed with Anglo-Arabs, and are therefore mostly hot-blooded. However, a hack must not show overly Arabian characteristics, which are frowned on the ring. They are generally between 14.2 hh and 15.3 hh, and can be any solid color. The hack is the epitome of good breeding, perfect conformation and manners—the aristocrat of the equine world.

There are different show classes for modern show hacks. The show hack can be displayed individually or in pairs, which is particularly impressive. The hacks are expected to show walk, trot, and canter, an individual demonstration, and to be ridden by the judge.

THE HUNTER Hunters vary quite considerably in appearance but they do all need common characteristics such as stamina, athletic ability, courage, and sense. It is widely considered that many of the best hunters are produced in Ireland. They are likely to be Irish Draft crossed with Thoroughbred or Cleveland Bay and may even have some pony blood. Hunters vary from region to region depending on the countryside in which they are ridden. In largely flat, grassy areas the hunter needs to have a lighter proportion of Thoroughbred. In areas of heavy clay ground, or rough land, more of a half-breed is required.

A hunter needs to be a good weight; that is he needs to have plenty of bone and be strong and sturdy. He also needs to be built for speed and should have powerful hindquarters. A major criterion for a hunter is stamina. They work load can be is considerable, when bearing in mind the long days and fast galloping that go with hunting.

Breeds of Horse
A recognized breed is one which has an Association with a Stud Book and Breeding record. Most recognized breeds have certain foundation sires, and all registered foals must trace their ancestry back to these stallions. In order for the foal to be registered, both the dam and the sire must be registered. There are certain breeds known as "color breeds" in which qualification is based on a specific color, e.g. Appaloosa, Palomino and Spotted Horse. In addition to the purebred registrations, certain associations also have so-called "Half-Bred" books. These offsprings may be registered if only one parent is purebred.

The Size of Horse
The size of the horse is measured from the top of the withers to the ground and is estimated in "hands". There are four inches to a hand. Horse whose height does not exceed fourteen hands, two inches (58 inches) are considered "ponies".

The average size of the horse varies greatly with his breed. Many associations limit the horses which they accept for registration to a certain size, others do not. In buying a horse for children the size is extremely important. Little children simply cannot do as well on a big horse. The gait is too long and the child's feet do not contact the horse where they can be affectively used as aids.

Bye!!!