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7 answers

Ahhh, my era! Check to see if the ground wire is there and ok, inside the distributor. Commonly over looked.
If it's good, put a screw driver across the open points to see if you can get the coil to fire. If not, the capacitor is bad. (Key on) This system requires a resistor in the run circuit, in the harness. If bad, the car will start but will not keep running.
There is also a boost wire at the starter solenoid that sends power to the coil when starting.
Start sequence..........key turned all the way, starter solenoid pulls in and cranks the starter motor, also sends power to coil.
Engine starts, key released and solenoid releases and allows power from ignition switch to flow through "Ballast resistor" to flow to coil and keep the engine running @ lower coil voltage. Timing is found at the balancer and should be checked @ 4 degrees advance without the vacuum advance connected.(make sure the diapham isn't blown out)
Good luck! I cut my mechanic's eye teeth on this engine!

Up-date. This engine has a fiber timeing gear on the crankshaft, make sure the distributor is turning smoothly, it could be out of time or not working at all. The gear is pressed on and requires a machine shop to replace it. (out of the engine) (Wish I were there!!!)

2007-12-24 03:31:44 · answer #1 · answered by Wisdom 6 · 2 0

Key ON - With a test light, check for power to the coil "+" side. If OK the check the "─" side. Crank over engine. The light should flash. If not then check the point gap. Dwell angle 28-32 or approx. .020". Test light flashes then remove the coil wire from the cap & crank engine. If no spark then remove the coil wire from the coil & insert a screwdriver. With another screwdriver place to a good ground. Crank engine move screwdriver close to the one in the coil. The spark should jump at least 3/8" between the two screwdrivers. If not replace the coil. If OK then replace the spark plug leads including the coil wire.

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2007-12-24 03:34:12 · answer #2 · answered by Mr. T 7 · 0 1

The ignition coil hooks to a ballast resistor before it connects to the ignition switch. So make sure you read 12 Volts or so at the ignition coil primary terminal that connects to the ballast resistor. The wire coming out of the distributor that connects to the points should go to the other coil primary connection.

2007-12-24 03:00:39 · answer #3 · answered by bobweb 7 · 1 1

i would clean the points, then check the points gap. located under the rotor in the dis. A dollar bill works best for cleaning and a match book cover will be awfully close for the gap. <---- stupid fact of the day....this was the recomended way to do this in 63...lol

2007-12-24 02:13:04 · answer #4 · answered by gravel128 5 · 1 0

spark plugs and leads / condensor / distrubutor / rotor button / ignition / timing any one of these can cause a motor not to fire

2007-12-24 02:08:30 · answer #5 · answered by Aileen S 2 · 2 0

check the points, these were make in the days before electronic ignition

2007-12-24 02:07:37 · answer #6 · answered by mikeb721 4 · 2 0

I can't offer any more info than "wisdom". His answer is the one to go with. Everything he has said is 100%.

2007-12-24 15:04:43 · answer #7 · answered by wzzrd 5 · 0 0

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