Spark type..?

Question

What kind of spark does your bike have.. or what type of spark should a perfect bike have..

Mine used to be orange, big and wandering.

Now ive got my loom sorted out its white consistent and strong.

Is this right?

My problem is, my bike will not start and the spark is there, fuel to plug, compression and air, but not firing.

Only thing i can thing of is timing (not started after re-build)

Would the magnto timing cause this?

Thanks.

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Bike: Suzuki TS
Year: 1980
Single Cylinder..
2-stroke..
Contact breaker Points and magneto ignition system.

Answer 1

The spark should be big blue and fat.
If it is a skinny spark it is likely to break down under compression.
Three things
if the plug is damaged the spark will show but when in the bore and under compression would fail.
Is the flywheel mag in the right orientation, the mag is on a taper but located with a woodruff key. Constant kicking of the starter and bumping can cause the key to wear or even snap, as can trying to remove the mag without the correct tool. So check this and replace it is only 50p. If you can't see one then it has completely sheared and you will need to hook out the remains from the groove in the crank. The mag is also the cam for the points so the points won't be opening at the right point if the mag/flywheel has slipped.
the condenser inside the mag may be breaking down and the resultant loss of potential can seriously reduce the spark.

I believe the mag has slipped the timing is now in the wrong point the coils will no longer line up with the magnets in the mag which will reduce the reluctance in the coils which gives the weak spark, this also accounts for your ignition timing being out and the lack of starting.
1. remove spark plug, remove timing/mag cover ( the whole thing)
2 use a socket on a Tbar to rotate crank.
3. using non damaging tool a disposable chopstick is best inside the spark plug hole and rotate engine slowly holding the chopstick lightly. mark on the stick both the lowest point the piston reaches BDC. Bottom Dead Centre and the highest the piston reaches TDC this is the crank throw and will help you check the timing. Remove the chopstick and measure the distance between the marks. divide the distance by 25 and mark this point on the stick below the TDC mark. This will give you 15 degrees before TDC. Also divide the distance by 36 and mark this on the stick below TDC using a different colour.
remove socket and T bar and using kick starter gently prod engine to check the direction of travel, mark on mag as an arrow.
replace socketand T bar onto mag nut insert chopstick into bore and slowly rotate when engine is approaching the two marks the engine is 15deg before TDC, you should be able to see the points in the window in the mag. as it reaches the higher mark the engine is 10 degrees before TDC and the points should be open/ opening. Check your timing mark ( you should find the point on the casing and on the flywheel. If the two are not lining up you will have to check the security of the flywheel on the crank. This is called working from first principles.
GOOD LUCK

Answer 2

You might stick in a new spark plug and try it. The ignition systems on older bikes are pretty weak and I've had plugs that looked perfect, would throw a spark when laying on the engine, but wouldn't fire a lick when under compression. Put in a new plug and away it went. Not saying that's the problem, but start with the inexpensive, easy stuff first and work up from there.

Answer 3

Either one is the problem. One firing system and second fuel supply system including cuberotter. Both must be in working condition.

Answer 4

challenging issue. try searching with bing and yahoo. this will help!

Answer 5

egg