Well, it is an Ornate Box Turtle- one of the hardest box turtles to care for in captivity.
The habitat is a bit smallish, but that is actually the good news.
- It cannot easily drink from the dish provided.
- The pulpy litter does not allow the animal to burrow, nor does it help with heat or humidity, and it creates an annoying dust.
- No good hiding place. The taped thing seems to be an attempt at a hide, but is not.
- Since it cannot climb or jump, not sure what the mesh lid is doing.
- If the heating pad is that thing showing in the corner, it is a REALLY bad idea to use them under wood or paper litters. It is also not generally considered a safe or effective way to warm a turtle habitat.
- I hope that the broken bottom does not mean sharp surfaces for it.
OK, so let's fix it.
- The tank is kind of small. If possible, replace with a 50 gallon plastic tub, like a Sterilite or Rubbermade.
- Put about 2" of a sand/soil mix at the bottom. Start with a clean soil (the best is well-soaked Bed-a-Beast or other coconut coir material, but clean potting soil without Perilite, etc. will work) and mix about the same weight of sand in it. Moisten, but do not let it get wet.
- Get a ceramic heat emitter and mount it in a ceramic socket with a reflector. Position this over one end so that the temp at the soil surface reads about 85F.
- While a UVB bulb would be best, a plain low-wattage light over the habitat will work- the one you already have is OK. Put a timer on it for 12 hours of light.
- Use a dish about 1" deep for the water. Bury about level in the soil. Clean and refill daily.
- Put in a humidity box- take a plastic shoebox, cut a hole in the side, put about 1" of peat moss or similar in the box. Moisten well and put near the hot area. Increase the humidity inside if needed by taping a sheet of plastic (like a Zip-lock) over the opening and slitting it to act like a curtain.
- If the habitat does not hold heat well, cover part of the tub to trap some of the heat inside.
Feeding- feed every day, but skip a day or two a week. As it gets older, skip more until you are feeding it about every 3 days when it is old.
My favorite Box Turtle recipe is:
- 1/3rd 'Bugs': insects, worms, arthropods, etc. Live is best.
- 1/3rd 'Meat': hard-boiled egg, canned dog food, soaked dog or cat kibble, cooked chicken or organ meat, oily fish, canned meat-based pet foods (Carnivore Diet). Use at least 2 different kinds of meats during a week, and change often.
- 1/3rd 'Salad': dark leafy greens, mushrooms, shredded carrots, strawberries, Timothy grass, dandelions, yard plants, etc.
Feed a serving about the side of its head every day.
http://www.boxturtlesite.info
2007-12-17 14:45:51
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answer #1
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answered by Madkins007 7
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No, not good! They need large enclosures. Wood shavings should never be used. They need water bowls big enough to climb into safely and soak in whenever they want. They should have hiding places as well. I'd suggest you read this website--it's the best for box turtles--and also has a great diet section.
http://boxturtlesite.info/bxbook.html
2007-12-17 21:56:52
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answer #2
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answered by KimbeeJ 7
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well thats not a eastern box turtla thats a Ornate box turtle and no aquetec u want like a tmerate forest. and you want to feed it every day and you want to give it worms, black berrys, pellets, tommatos, and mushrooms make sure you give him or her a mix diet.
2007-12-17 20:48:10
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answer #3
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answered by Tyler B 2
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Easy to see that no, you are not providing adequate housing. The link below should clear things up for you.
2007-12-17 20:36:57
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answer #4
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answered by Anonymous
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