I bought a used oven for some small powder coating jobs in my shop. I got it wired up, but it's not heating up at all. Ive got 240V coming out of the wall,and I cannot see any visible broken wires inside the oven. I hooked a probe up to the heating element wires (disconnected from the element itself), turned the oven to 350 degrees and Im only getting 44-45V. I also hooked up an ohm meter to the element, and there is no resistance at all. I cannot remember the exact model oven I got, but I think its a relatively new whirpool (maybe 5-8 years old) with digital controls. How would I go about diagnosing this problem without calling an electrician? I have basic electrical knowledge so Im hoping I can figure this out on my own. Thanks!!!
2007-12-15 13:36:21 · 3 answers · asked by Spills 2 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
no I have continuity on the elements, if there is resistance there is very little (my multimeter was buzzing meaning continuity). But the main thing I was looking at was the 44V going to the heating element wires. Wheres the other 200V? That's making me think that it might not be the heating element, or possible a combo of the two
2007-12-15 13:49:36 · update #1
but I SHOULD be getting 240V at the heating element wires when the oven is set on bake, correct? I will double check the exact resistance tomorrow on the element. Ill have to look at the wiring diagrams a little more closely too, I have continutity from the heating element contacts all the way to the conrol panel, but from there I get lost
2007-12-15 14:06:06 · update #2
The control should be delivering 240V to the element for it to work properly. The element may be alright, get the control to deliver 240V(replace/repair) try it if it doesnt heat up replace it.
2007-12-16 14:07:33 · answer #1 · answered by petethen2 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Slow down a little here, don't go buying the elements just yet. If you have continuity through the elements, but read no resistance, that doesn't necessarily mean the elements are bad. If you had an open circuit, that is different. But, that doesn't explain the low voltage. I would hook ever thing back up and check for voltage across both ends of the elements. If you still have that much voltage drop, then you have either extremely high resistance (loose or corroded wire, Element, connection), or the thermostat, and or the controls are faulty. Look at the wiring diagram and follow the power side back checking until you have full voltage.
2007-12-15 21:57:55 · answer #2 · answered by T C 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If you have no Ohmmeter continuity I think you already did a good diagnosis. By mail order those oven elements go for about $35.
2007-12-15 21:42:33 · answer #3 · answered by Rich Z 7 · 1⤊ 0⤋