Final drive alignment?

Question

What method do you use?
Eyeball, micrometer, or something in between?
Do you have a belt, or a chain?
If you have a shop do it, can you tell me how they did it?
If you were having a cup in the lounge, that's ok. I do too sometimes.

Thanks, guys. I asked mostly to bring the subject up. I've used a few of your methods, but not the laser. I too have found older Honda marks (especially the stickers!) to be off. Interesting thing: the double string method also works as a quicky "total alignment" as well.

Answer 1

Something else you can do is a very old trick. Put the bike on the center stand, point the front wheel straight forward, wrap a string around the rear wheel, not the circumference, but say around the valve stem and over the tire and stretch it forward, past the front wheel. Do this on both sides. The idea is to get in front of the bike with a string in each hand, bring the strings inward until they just barely touch the front sidewall of the rear tire and see if the front wheel is centered. The front wheel of nearly all bikes is narrower than the rear, so there will a little space between the side of the front tire on both sides. If you want, stretch one string, tie it to something solid, move the front wheel until it's the same distance front and back fron the string and then stretch the other one. If the distances aren't exactly the same, you'll need to adjust the rear wheel until you get it right and then remember how much it's off whenever you adjust the chain.

I had to do that with an old 750 Honda, the marks on the swing arm were off almost half a mark. After getting the front and rear wheel to run true, I stopped having the pain across my shoulder blades from continually fighting it. Using the strings increases the distance and accentuates any discrepencies, making it more accurate. The problem with measuring from swing arm pivot to axle is that sometimes there's chain guards, brake calipers or other stuff in the way.

Answer 2

Yep, ride on has it in the bag. Watched them do it to my '99 FXDWG when they put my rear back on after changing the brake rotor. Little laser dingus. They poked, prodded, grunted a few times, finally stood up and said "done". I was impressed. And I don't have to tell you that the Dyna is a belt drive. I was surprised that an indie shop had something like that! But that's why I go to him and not the pig pen. Ciao!

Answer 3

I use a C.A.T. /B.A.T. It's a little laser that sits on the sprocket or pulley edge and shoots forward creating a straight line to the front sprocket or pulley.

I also double check with the old fashion method. That is to measure from the swing arm pivot to the axle center.
I have a very high tech device for this, a welding rod with a 2" stretch bent at 90 degrees for the front with a drilled pencil eraser sliding on the rear.

Answer 4

I usually hang the bike from the ceiling with a plumb line close wheel to and from there take it to the dealers its good but beware of skidding on coca cola cans

Answer 5

i use a piece of string
unless your completely incapable then there is nothing wrong with it...hasn't failed me yet

also it means that if you're out and about and you rear wheel drops off (!), then no worries about realigning it- cos you can just use your shoelace...unless you always carry your fancy laser gizmos with you...no? oh..

Answer 6

I ussualy take some chalk...and make a sign...so i know it's place

Answer 7

Shaft drive. I just bolt that baby up.